I finally found the GM factory repair manuals in a 5 volume set covering 1.4, 1.8, and diesel models for $305. I'm just going to go that route.
no problem with changing parts, I just wanted the torque specs other than the lug nuts which I mentioned at 100. some bearings have a torque sequence, not just "tighten" lol, Like I said, I found a repair manual with everything I need, thanks anywayIts not hard to remove. Just take the caliper, bracket and rotor off. On the backside there should be 4 bolts. Take them out and the hub assy comes off. Knock out your old stud and use either a stud puller or an old lug nut and 3 appropriate size washers. Pull the stud through by using the lug nut and install tools buy tightning with a long wrench and a pry bar between 2 studs(put lug nuts on these as not to damage threads with pry bar) and pull stud in until its all the way in contact with the backside on the hub. Re install the hub, rotor, bracket, brake caliper and wheel. Torque to 100 ft/lbs. Have a beer lol.
dealer rotated tires a while back, when I got home I checked lugs as you are supposed to with aluminum wheels, anyway I found at least half were about a full turn loose, and others didn't budge with the torque wrench, but looking back were probably overtightened, the random torque lead me to believe the dealer just used an impact gun. I wanted them to fix the stud, then I'm afraid they will impact all the components necessary to replace the stud so I planned on just fixing it myselfIf you are breaking studs there is likely grease/oil on the threads or conical area of the nut/wheel.
The 100ft.lb. spec. is specific to dry/clean (not oiled) components.......
Rob