Chevrolet Cruze Forums banner
1 - 20 of 29 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,171 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a new system coming together soon and I am trying to get away from the traditional slot ported design. I am looking into creating either an aeroport box or a 4th order bandbass. This will be for the trunk..I have no plans of walling off my Cruze(yet..lol). I am leaning towards the aeroport design for easier tuning (adjustable port) for the lanes or testing. I have been reading up on how-to's on other car audio forums.

So I'm asking for assistance for those familier with building subwoofer boxes.

The list of the equipment is:

2-Ct Sounds Meso 12"
1-Ct Sounds 1400.1
1-Xs Power D4700(hood)
1-Xs Power D1200(trunk)
1/0 gauge everywhere of course.

Timeframe would be within a month from now.

Thank you.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
15,754 Posts
How much space can you afford to give up and what kind of sound are you going for?

Don't plan on an adjustable port. Design it with a static port size from the get go based on the kind of output you want or run two ports of two different sizes based on your needs. You'll need a shared airspace to pull this off.

Those subs will require at least a double thick baffle if not a flush mount with a 1" mounting plane.

Are you getting the box in through the trunk or the back seats? If back seats, are you removing the seat backs first? That will make a big difference in how bit of a box you can use.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,171 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'll remove the back seats if necessary(I just put them back in a few weeks ago after having them out for about 5 months lol). And of course you know the max width and height already, it's just the matter of depth I can give up. I'm not sure if I want to seal them off and fire them into the cabin or close up the seats and fire them into the trunk lid. When I was reading up on aeroports they say a slot ported box needs 12-16 inches of port per cubic foot of box when aeroport would need 6-8 inches. Andrei if it is easier to text or call about this I have your number still just let me know.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,171 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I've used 3/4" Mdf on the past two boxes and this time I'm going to go with 3/4" birch double baffle and quite possible flush mount the subs and aeroport. And as for sound, I still would like it to be musical (play notes 28-50) the last box I had I tuned real low and I would lose anything above 44 so this time I don't want a low end monster I want something that'll sound great on all the notes.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
15,754 Posts
I don't see this working with a bandpass box. No way. As for port, you need to model them to see what your vent velocity looks like, not just go with some arbitrary number someone put out there for port surface area.

Birch is nice but not as dead as MDF. You'll need some very thorough bracing.

Texting would be easier.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,495 Posts
Bandpass enclosures are very hard to make correctly with musicality/accuracy in mind especially with subs that aren't designed that way from the start. If you want to be able to have play as accurately as possible and you havent built a ton of enclosures before I am going to recommend sealed 1.25 cft per enclosure easy and cant go wrong. If your intentions are maximum SPL then a folded horn is what I would go with.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
15,754 Posts
Bandpass enclosures are very hard to make correctly with musicality/accuracy in mind especially with subs that aren't designed that way from the start. If you want to be able to have play as accurately as possible and you havent built a ton of enclosures before I am going to recommend sealed 1.25 cft per enclosure easy and cant go wrong. If your intentions are maximum SPL then a folded horn is what I would go with.
Not sure if two enormous motor 12" SPL subs would play at their potential in a sealed box or if a folded horn with two would even fit in a Cruze.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,171 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I don't see this working with a bandpass box. No way. As for port, you need to model them to see what your vent velocity looks like, not just go with some arbitrary number someone put out there for port surface area.

Birch is nice but not as dead as MDF. You'll need some very thorough bracing.

Texting would be easier.
Just sent you a text sir.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
15,754 Posts
I just call them flared ports. Aero ports sound too...DIYMA.com. Those of you who have spent some time, and graduated from there will know what I mean. You can get them in 2", 3", 4" and 6" diameters, either smooth or dimpled. A single 15" sub will generally run off of two 4" ports. Two 12s...I'd have to see what the vent velocity would be. Problem is that the bigger you make them, the longer you need to make them to maintain the same tuning, and you can't bend them like you can a slot port. Best bet will be to fit the box in through the rear so you can get the ports as big as you can, and run the box 17" tall, 32" wide, side fire the ports, and as deep as you can afford to make them. Then, you could probably run two 6" ports or three 4" ports and not have any issues with vent velocity. Again, I'd have to model the enclosure to determine what sizes would be appropriate for your tuning frequency.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
15,754 Posts
So what you are saying is subs firing forward into the cabin or back towards the trunk lid and have the ports on the sides?
Yep. I don't really see any other way that you could get the ports long enough for the size you need.
 
1 - 20 of 29 Posts
Top