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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey, got a weird one for you all. The symptoms are much like the normal pcv or valve cover failure but I replaced the intake manifold and the valve cover a few days ago, and the orange nipple is there and the valve cover doesn't suck at the diagram at idle so it's ok also. But when I open the dip stick it or oil cap it sucks and blows at those points. Switching between the two almost 5 times a sec. But if you cover the hole you realize it's sucking more than blowing. ... The rest of the info is just extra. Not sure if it will help


My 2011 1.4 turbo eco model decided to vomit oil all over the passenger side of the engine. Turned out it was because the pcv was now missing, so the pressure would cause the oil to end up going into the corrugated hose and shooting out all over... Or what didn't continue into the turbo and then into the intake and engine. So I replaced the valve cover and did the V.3 upgrade. However that didn't fix it. So I took it off and replaced the intake manifold just to be safe. but the V.3 does replace the correlated hose. So now the oil just stays inside and goes into the turbo and so on.
The car also sputtering when I drive it. I went on a highway trip after installing and intake manifold and new valve cover but after 20 mins it said "ac off due to high engine temp" but the car never got hot. In fact the needle went from normal temp to 0 or cold. I pulled over and no signs of over heating (bubbling radiator fluid/glowing headers). I turned it off for 12 hrs and came back later. the ac off sign was still active. So idk. Also the oil was a bit over full before I started the trip. Still at the same level now. No change. Also it is sucking at the oil cap and dip stick. I even put a spare valve cover on that was also good just to check for cracks... Getting good at changing this valve cover quick lol
I know the valve cover and the pcv valves are only 2 of three check valves on that system (or I think). Could the turbo check valve (maybe solenoid also don't know) be bad. What does that part even look like.
 

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2014 LT program car, Pull Me Over Red, 1.4T Auto
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Hey, got a weird one for you all. The symptoms are much like the normal pcv or valve cover failure but I replaced the intake manifold and the valve cover a few days ago, and the orange nipple is there and the valve cover doesn't suck at the disk at idle.
My 2011 1.4 turbo eco model decided to vomit oil all over the passenger side of the engine. Turned out it was because the pcv was now missing, so the pressure would cause the oil to end up going into the corrugated hose and shooting out all over... Or what didn't continue into the turbo and then into the intake and engine. So I replaced the valve cover and did the V.3 upgrade. However that didn't fix it. So I took it off and replaced the intake manifold just to be safe. but the V.3 does replace the correlated hose. So now the oil just stays inside and goes into the turbo and so on.
The car also sputtering when I drive it. I went on a highway trip after installing and intake manifold and new valve cover but after 20 mins it said "ac off due to high engine temp" but the car never got hot. In fact the needle went from normal temp to 0 or cold. I pulled over and no signs of over heating (bubbling radiator fluid/glowing headers). I turned it off for 12 hrs and came back later. the ac off sign was still active. So idk. Also the oil was a bit over full before I started the trip. Still at the same level now. No change. Also it is sucking at the oil cap and dip stick. I even put a spare valve cover on that was also good just to check for cracks... Getting good at changing this valve cover quick lol
I know the valve cover and the pcv valves are only 2 of three check valves on that system (or I think). Could the turbo check valve (maybe solenoid also don't know) be bad. What does that part even look like.
Welcome Aboard!(y)

Tough read there. Smaller bites is better.

There are two PCV valves and one regulator. One valve in the intake, one at the turbo. The regulator is the disk on the valve cover.

2011-2016 Cruze 1.4 PCV Valve Cover/Intake Manifold Issues

Did you clean out the charge pipes?


How-To: Charge pipe clean - up.

Don't forget to introduce yourself and your Cruze here.
 

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Welcome Aboard!(y)

Tough read there. Smaller bites is better.

There are two PCV valves and one regulator. One valve in the intake, one at the turbo. The regulator is the disk on the valve cover.

2011-2016 Cruze 1.4 PCV Valve Cover/Intake Manifold Issues

Did you clean out the charge pipes?


How-To: Charge pipe clean - up.

Don't forget to introduce yourself and your Cruze here.
Thanks a bunch for the quick response. And good call on your advice. I'll edit the post and do an intro after work. I'll post this weekend when I clean the charge pipes
 

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Thanks a bunch for the quick response. And good call on your advice. I'll edit the post and do an intro after work. I'll post this weekend when I clean the charge pipes
what are the codes? the temperature thing could be either of the coolant sensors or the thermostat. there's one sensor in the water outlet and the other in the lower radiator hose (mine is at least)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
what are the codes? the temperature thing could be either of the coolant sensors or the thermostat. there's one sensor in the water outlet and the other in the lower radiator hose (mine is at least)
No codes thrown after the manifold was changed. The "ac off" status did clear after I reset the car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Welcome Aboard!(y)

Tough read there. Smaller bites is better.

There are two PCV valves and one regulator. One valve in the intake, one at the turbo. The regulator is the disk on the valve cover.

2011-2016 Cruze 1.4 PCV Valve Cover/Intake Manifold Issues

Did you clean out the charge pipes?


How-To: Charge pipe clean - up.

Don't forget to introduce yourself and your Cruze here.
Just checked the charge pipes. No issues with them. Nor can I hear any leaks or whistles from holes. I did a compression test and all cylinders are good. So I'm thinking I might tap out and take it to a mechanic.
 

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2014 LT program car, Pull Me Over Red, 1.4T Auto
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Just checked the charge pipes. No issues with them. Nor can I hear any leaks or whistles from holes. I did a compression test and all cylinders are good. So I'm thinking I might tap out and take it to a mechanic.
I would still consider the fix kit. My orange nipple was there, but it still was in a failed condition. The kit solved my issues.
 

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Just checked the charge pipes. No issues with them. Nor can I hear any leaks or whistles from holes. I did a compression test and all cylinders are good. So I'm thinking I might tap out and take it to a mechanic.
hmm.. with the car level and at operating temp, shut off the engine and wait 5-10 minutes. show us your oil level on the dipstick.

how old is the oil? injector is leaking? overfilling can send oil into the pcv system, create more pressure..push the oil out of seals.

you want to be in the 2nd square (smooth area) right above the bottom crosshatch.

oil levels can change from condensation/fuel dilution/short trips etc

bring the oil level down and then report back
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Oh I never remember it doing that before. Possibility because the corrugated hose let out extra pressure better than the rubber hose I replaced it with. The dip stick hole does whistle because the sucking is decently strong. Even at idle. Seems excessive. Also when I hit the gas the car sputters some.
 

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2014 LT program car, Pull Me Over Red, 1.4T Auto
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I installed the V.3 kit and it didn't help so I removed it and replaced the manifold. No change either way
Somehow you are pressurizing the block. Possible you have a slow blow head gasket?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
hmm.. with the car level and at operating temp, shut off the engine and wait 5-10 minutes. show us your oil level on the dipstick.

how old is the oil? injector is leaking? overfilling can send oil into the pcv system, create more pressure..push the oil out of seals.

you want to be in the 2nd square (smooth area) right above the bottom crosshatch.

oil levels can change from condensation/fuel dilution/short trips etc

bring the oil level down and then report back
Somehow you are pressurizing the block. Possible you have a slow blow head gasket?
Maybe. But compression test passed. Maybe valves. I'll look into it
 

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Maybe. But compression test passed. Maybe valves. I'll look into it
what was the compression on all 4? wouldn't think compression would pass if you had a valve or ring issue.

get the oil level right and install a new OEM cover...still sounds like an issue with the cover not sealing right or the pcv tract inside the cover/diaphragm or spring inside that vent isn't functioning properly
 

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Maybe. But compression test passed. Maybe valves. I'll look into it
I have been looking into a blown head gasket on my PT Cruiser and this is what I have figured out so far as to deciding if it is blown:

When the gasket fails it can do so in five different ways.
  • Allows coolant to leak into the engine oil – milky or frothy oil.
  • Allows coolant to leak outside of the engine block – wet block or a sickly-sweet smell or smoke.
  • Mixes combustion gasses into the cooling system (radiator) – bubbling / spitting out of cap.
  • Allows combustion gasses/pressures to transfer between two cylinders– rough idling.
  • Allows engine oil to leak outside of the engine block - wet block or smoke if hot.
Confirming a blown head gasket
  • Are you loosing coolant without indications of a leak?
  • Is the oil on the bottom of the oil filler cap foamy or milky?
  • Is there water in the oil or is it milky colored?
  • Do you have white exhaust smoke?
  • Are there bubbles coming out of an open radiator cap?
  • Are there bubbles coming out of the overflow or surge tank?
  • Perform a pressure test on the cooling system – does it hold at least up to the psi on the radiator cap? With the spark plugs removed, can you see any coolant on the pistons? Is there a white chalky appearance to the plugs?
  • Once the system is pressurized, how long will it hold the pressure?
  • Perform a compression test on each cylinder and compare readings – a lower reading could indicate a gasket leak.
  • Still not sure, perform an exhaust gas test on the coolant.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Ok been a busy week. Car is working again. Thank you all for all the help... I had to hand it off Sunday because I've been slammed at work. Turned out I did fix the problem and just didn't clean up well. It was the pcv valve that was replaced and sputtering was just the left over oil from me overfilling it. Bit embarrassing but honestly I'm very thankful for all the honest and ernest help I got from this community. Thanks again.
 

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Ok been a busy week. Car is working again. Thank you all for all the help... I had to hand it off Sunday because I've been slammed at work. Turned out I did fix the problem and just didn't clean up well. It was the pcv valve that was replaced and sputtering was just the left over oil from me overfilling it. Bit embarrassing but honestly I'm very thankful for all the honest and ernest help I got from this community. Thanks again.
Main thing is you fixed it.

I would hang onto the fix kit as you will probably want to reinstall it in the future.
 

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For anyone reading this, you should have a little suction at the dipstick when you put your finger over it. It should also stumble a bit when you take your finger off. The dipstick hole is an unregulated vacuum leak when it isn't plugged.
 

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Ok been a busy week. Car is working again. Thank you all for all the help... I had to hand it off Sunday because I've been slammed at work. Turned out I did fix the problem and just didn't clean up well. It was the pcv valve that was replaced and sputtering was just the left over oil from me overfilling it. Bit embarrassing but honestly I'm very thankful for all the honest and ernest help I got from this community. Thanks again.
sweet, I had a feeling it was from being overfilled
 
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