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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, I'm wanting to buy a 2011-2013 Cruze I'm looking for opinions

I drive bout 600-700 (mostly highway) miles a week

I'm interested in a ECO w/a manual trans but I've read a few bad things about the transmission will it last to 300k without problems?

The automatics any good? anyone have 250k or more on one without any issues?

Also reading that the turbos wont last long...what goes bad with those?

Are the ECO engines fairly reliable?

Thanks
 

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I would look for a 2014 or later.
 
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I had a 14 eco manual, drove it from new to 22k miles, nice car, I averaged 39 mpg. I had zero issues with it. 14 and newer they allowed you to use regular gas, the older ones for some reason really didn’t run well unless you used premium. If I were looking for eco I would want a manual.
 

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I had a 2012 LT manual. drove it 60,000+ no issues. gave it to my son as his caviler was dying. he still riving it with about 90,000. The only issue he had was the PCV, it was replaced under warranty. I'd also go with a manual. If possible, look at service records (oil changes with full synthetic) better chance that the turbo is in better condition. When buying anything used have an independent mechanic look at it for a second opinion. good luck.
 

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Six to seven hundred miles a week?

I don't care who manufactured it.......you will have a lot of heartache ($$$$$) imo starting off with a secondhand car.
Very rare for cars to get traded in because they were flawless.

Buy new and put the longest warranty you can on it.

Rob
 

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I think the 1.4 Litre turbo is the better of the 2 gasoline engines. I would look for a 2014 or 2015 with low miles, as there are still plenty around.
 

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Avoid 2011 entirely. I'd avoid 2012 models too. Lots of issues were ironed out by 2014-15.

The 2012+ automatics have fewer issues, BUT they need to be maintained. Fluid changes every 45k are recommended.

The manual transmissions have had lots of bearing and flywheel failures. Fortunately, most fail before 100k under the powertrain warranty. I would not buy another myself...that is simply unacceptable in my book, and they haven't been redesigned to be improved at all.

Turbo failures are mostly wastegate pivot pins wearing out, causing underboost codes and the whole turbo as a result needs to be changed. The 1.4T is a DURABLE engine longevity-wise - some have made it to 300-500k miles, but due to a couple design flaws (PCV system, water pump, pistons cracking), isn't the most reliable motor you'll find in a small car. The 1.8 has less issues, but also has a timing belt that needs to be changed every 100k, is pretty gutless, and isn't very economical.
 

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Just some perspective. I have had my '14 LS 1.8L since ~20k miles. Just crossed over the 100k mark.

I also drive ~2500-3000mi a month with 95% being long highway miles (like 500mi long).

Having owned many forced induction cars (low and high-end), they add another variable into the "stuff to go wrong" category. If your looking for reliability, I suggest the non-turbo 1.8L auto. I tossed a K&N and some copper plugs to add some oomph and it works fine and has been a workhorse for me. Yes, it has a timing belt. But, in JMHO, you shouldn't base a car purchase on a ~$800/every 100k mile maintenance item.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
So if I'm understanding right, the general consensus in these cars the auto's are more reliable than the manual? Hard to believe...he last 2 cars(Saturn,VW Jetta) I've had go well past 300K without touching the trans. Even had the original clutches
 

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So if I'm understanding right, the general consensus in these cars the auto's are more reliable than the manual? Hard to believe...he last 2 cars(Saturn,VW Jetta) I've had go well past 300K without touching the trans. Even had the original clutches
Flywheel issues are relatively common with the 2011-2014s. 2015+ got the upgraded GMPP clutch/flywheel from the factory. Bearing failures and whining in some gears are common with most of them unless they were run on different fluid and correctly filled from the get-go (most were low from the factory).

The clutches themselves seem to last a fairly long time if the flywheel doesn't crap out first. Some people have had 300K+ on their original M32, but they do almost primarily highway driving.
 

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Buy new and put the longest warranty you can on it.
Rob
This! I thought additional warranties offered by carmax, USAA, and chevy were a scam... that's just what the same people who don't regularly maintain their vehicles say.

Every car will have some type of issue, just depends on the severity and number of them. Look at the new Focus RS, great car, terrible engine design.
 

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I have a 2014 LTZ with 42k miles. The car is great. Purchasing a Cruze, I'd strongly suggest you or a mechanic run a computer scan to see if there's any engine code history, or if the computer has been recently been cleared to hide a problem.

details:
My 1.4L turbo started acting up at 40k, and I had it serviced for free under the warranty. It would have been a $2k job. It took the dealer about a week to get the turbo. The dealer said GM just did a redesign on the part due to problems with it. (so the dealer says) The dealer went on to say that the problem was caused by excessive carbon build up. He suggested a fuel treatment every 15k miles to extend the life of the turbo. While it sounded like a scam to sell me a $25 bottle of fuel treatment, he went on to say that if I continued with the treatment every 15k miles, the turbo would be protected under the warranty of the fuel treatment. It's a reputable dealer, so I'll play along.

The problem was occur on long highway trips >30 minutes, so you'd never see it on a test drive. I would loose turbo boost. (confirmed using the Torque app.) After the motor cooled off the problem went away. I could run the car around the city and the CEL would eventually clear. After a few weeks of this I brought it in to be serviced. I assumed the waste-gate was getting stuck open due to wear. I tend to be an aggressive drive, and I've only run 87 octane. Reading another thread today it was stated that higher octane is recommended for the 1.4 turbo. I plan to increase my octane, but higher octane can also increase the amount of carbon. I'm not a fan of engine treatments, but I may start using some sort of cleaner every 3-4 times a year in addition to the dealer treatment every 15k.
 

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The port injected 1.4Ts don't suffer from carbon buildup issues like other direct injected turbo motors on the market do. Most later DI GM engines haven't really had issues with it at all.

Turbo underboost is usually just the worn out wastegate pivot pin causing boost fluctuation under high load driving (for a Cruze, this is just climbing hills on the highway). When the car detects that, it throws it into limp mode and then you have close to zero boost.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

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Every car has its share of issues. I can say that I haven’t had any of the issues that were listed. Although I am a bit more “particular” about my preventive maintenance. Mainly since I commute LONG distances in the car.

Heres the list of what I have had issues with and preventive maintenance I’ve done:
- IMT position error (P2076), fixed under powertrain warranty ~66k miles
- was a bit sluggish in hot weather, replaced OEM plugs with properly gapped coppers
- added K&N more for maintenance ease than “pep”
- change oil/filter with full syn when the OLM says to (5-15%)
- annual coolant flush
- annual brake fluid flush
- drain/fill Auto tranny fluid every 3-4 oil changes
- replaced front brakes/pads ~88k (OEMs still had 30-40% left)
- adjusted rear drums (HIGHLY recommended)
- 2 sets of OEM tires (2nd set ~45k), 3rd set are 90k Michelin’s (installed ~85k)
- timing belt, serpentine and all associated stuff at 96k
- 2 cans of B-12 in the fuel after every oil change
- 1/2 can of seafoam in the crank case in the last 1k prior to oil change
- replaced OEM battery with Optima Red Top ~50k
- replaced driver window regulator ~90k (seriously a 10 minute job, lol)

Only real issue I’ve had was getting the cruise control installed. “middle finger to GM” for that one.

All things considered, it’s been a great econobox/commuter. So much so, the kid can’t wait to get it (and even talked me into keeping it until then). Like is said, I drive A LOT over LONG distances and have zero reservations about this car. Hopefully, I’ll actually be looking for another 1.8L NA Cruze to replace this one in a year or so.

Knock on wood I don’t have a catastrophic failure right after posting this. Lol
 

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I have to agree with Lance on this one, don't buy a Cruze, at least with the 1.4 turbo. My 2014 1LT has just over 63,000 miles, in the last 18 months I've had the battery cable problem, pcv problem, waiting for the turbo to come in at the dealer to have that replaced. Fairly confident the pcv problem will occur again, don't expect more than 50-60K miles out of a replacement turbo. I drive 400+ miles a week and am good about maintenance.

It's a shame, because otherwise I really like the car. It's a decent running engine, just too complicated in my opinion. And no, I don't expect things to run forever without needing something.

That said, the gurus on this site have been great about sorting out the issues. Chevy has fixed it all under warranty, but some of this stuff just shouldn't happen.

Dave
 
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