[landrystephane92]

Difference is this costs me zero dollars versus almost 200 CAD to my door.

 

[JLL]

Difference is this costs me zero dollars versus almost 200 CAD to my door.

But it's so pretty. $200 is alot though for a pillar.

 

[F18D4T]

Keen to see this progress, I'm in the FI 1.8 gang and never even considered a SC simply due to the lack of space.

 

[MP81]

Supercharger go WEEEEEE

 

[Crewz]

Welcome to the 1.8 boosted club! Looking forward to how this unfolds.
Hard to tell from the under the hood pictures, but what trans are you running?
How much psi of boost? Might need to upgrade the valve springs and retainers if going over 8 psi. I can shoot you a link to what works with our heads.
I'd go with the AEMX Wideband. They come with a OBDII plug that communicates with HP Tuners so you can log lambda / AFR. Make tuning a breeze as you can copy and paste error and adjust.
For a fuel regulator, be sure to get a boost reference regulator so it increase fuel psi as boost goes up, but if you're keeping the boost low, which it seems like that's the case here with the 42# injectors, you might not need a regulator at all. These cars run at 58psi. At 8 psi with 10 psi spikes, the stock fuel system held up fine even on e85 with 60# injectors.

Good luck and it'll be cool seeing a SC 1.8.

 

[landrystephane92]

think you guys are due for an update!

Bought the hp tuners MPVI2 yesterday, which is a good part of the build project! Can't wait to learn how to tune!

Also, I don't plan on going over 10 psi for the time being, if so, I'll upgrade to a M62 supercharger instead as the M45 won't do much more efficiently than that.

 

[JLL]

think you guys are due for an update!

Bought the hp tuners MPVI2 yesterday, which is a good part of the build project! Can't wait to learn how to tune!

Also, I don't plan on going over 10 psi for the time being, if so, I'll upgrade to a M62 supercharger instead as the M45 won't do much more efficiently than that.

Did you ever go forward with this project?

 

[CHEVYCRUZE RS]

Cool pod location , personally I like my zzp side mount I found on all my cars the middle blocks my driving view and I don’t like it but that’s a clean install I like how you counter sunk them a bit

 

[landrystephane92]

So, this project is still underway, I just had other priorities. To summarize what I've done since my last post is that I get some new tires, cleaned my ECO wheels and sealed them (takes about 3 hours per wheel, no joke). I have three wheels done and I'm starting the third tonight. I had previously removed just the "front" side of the wheel's plastidip (I bought these used plastidipped already btw). With the tires done, I brought them to the garage to have them removed to restore them to as close to new as possible. The only plastidip left is a tiny bit in the valve stem base and in the lug nut holes bottom inner edge.

Tires are 235/50ZR17 Continental ExtremeContact DWS06, should fill in that wheel well just fine! Can't wait to get them mounted, anyways, here's a few pictures

 

[landrystephane92]

updated the OP quite a bit.

 

[landrystephane92]

Here is a better before and after of the restoring of these ECO wheels.


Here is the condition I got them in. Plastidipped with edges peeling, this was the one in the best shape too. At least they looked in good shape underneath.

Removing the top layer of plastidip with WD40 and an old gift card.

First side done and the top layer is all I would do during the first summer. The tires were only good for one last summer season so I was gonna have the tires removed and restore them entirely.

As you can see, the inner rim was still entirely plastidipped at that point, but at least we could see these beautiful polished forged wheels.

Back from the garage with the bare wheels, time to freshen up!

With a better view now of what has to be done, I got to work.

Then after the first wheel done, quite drastic as far as change goes if you ask me.

What I had to remove

• Rubber from the tire seats
• Corrosion in the tire seats radius
• Rubber and dirt on the outer rim
• Plastidip from the interior rim
• Two sided tape/glue from the previous wheel balancing weights
• Thick dirt above the plastidip

What I used

• SOS pads (one per wheel)
• Two sided sponge (one per wheel)
• Disposable wooden chop sticks (one per wheel)
• Fingernails
• Pine Sol
• Nu Finish "Polish"
• Goo Gone (used around half a bottle total as I put some in the bin mixture to help aid removal of gunk)
• Plastic knife
• Water
• Plastic bin (the large transparent storage ones)
• Shower

Process to restore

1. Take the entire wheel to a good hot shower (as hot as I could go) to clean debris
2. Took a big plastic bin filled about two inches of hot water and pine sol, then took a two sided sponge to remove as much as possible of the outer rim
3. Used an SOS pad for what was left on the outer rim
4. Manually peel the inside rim plastidip as much as I could, near the hub it was "soggy" with contamination from brake dust and heat likely
5. SOS pad to removed gunked up plastidip
6. SOS pad to remove the corrosion/metal rust from the back of the hub
7. Goo Gone soaking for those weight glue/tape
8. Plastic knife to remove the weight crap
9. SOS pad to remove the plastidip inside the stamped lettering
10. Disposable chop stick to better reach those hard to reach corners (around the valve stem for example)
11. Wash the entire wheel again in a hot shower
12. Wipe down with paper towels
13. Sealed with two coats of Nu Finish "Polish"

 

[landrystephane92]

Last wheel progress

1. Take the entire wheel to a good hot shower (as hot as I could go) to clean debris
2. Took a big plastic bin filled about two inches of hot water and pine sol, then took a two sided sponge to remove as much as possible of the outer rim
3. Used an SOS pad for what was left on the outer rim
4. Manually peel the inside rim plastidip as much as I could, near the hub it was "soggy" with contamination from brake dust and heat likely
5. SOS pad to removed gunked up plastidip
6. SOS pad to remove the corrosion/metal rust from the back of the hub
7. Goo Gone soaking for those weight glue/tape
8. Plastic knife to remove the weight crap
9. SOS pad to remove the plastidip inside the stamped lettering
10. Disposable chop stick to better reach those hard to reach corners (around the valve stem for example)
11. Wash the entire wheel again in a hot shower
12. Wipe down with paper towels
13. Sealed with two coats of Nu Finish "Polish"

 

[landrystephane92]

Done!

 

[landrystephane92]

Ordered some 75W-90 Amsoil to change the transmission fluid when I get a chance!

 

[JerryHail]

Done!

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Great job!! I like it. When do you plan to complete your project and what is the budget?

 

[landrystephane92]

Great job!! I like it. When do you plan to complete your project and what is the budget?

A project is never truely done, so as I can afford new pieces of the build (think of it like buying pieces of a puzzle as you go). As far as budget goes, I don't really have a budget in mind, I have a lot of things I want to do with the car, but usually buy stuff every month.

 

[landrystephane92]

Had my tire installed on the wheels yesterday. They're thicc!

 

[landrystephane92]

I wonder how my wife will react tonight when I bring a tire on the kitchen table for a photoshoot lol

I'll let you guys take guesses

 

[landrystephane92]

I did my first revision for the bracket, I sent it off to get a quote to see how much they'd charge me for it. AC is where the AC mounts to and SC is where the Supercharger will mount. It will need 30mm tube spacers to be between the supercharger itself and the plate, maybe a bit more to clear the bolt heads from the AC mount. I went with 1/2" plate, but might go down to 3/8".

Now, I'm going to 3D print a few of these beforehand until I get the final design just right. I've also been email quite a few salvage yards to see if they have superchargers, I'm trying to get one for like $150 CAD shipped!

 

[landrystephane92]

And this is why you don't cheap out on aftermarket stuff boys and girls.