Difference is this costs me zero dollars versus almost 200 CAD to my door.
Supercharging the 1.8L and 2012 Cruze LS restoration
So welcome to my build log, this is sort of a build log slash restoration log, I'll make a list of things I want to do and things I've done. My goal is to restore this car as I can with better upgraded parts and eventually install a supercharger. I'm open to any and every comment or suggestions! I also want to thank all my sponsors, I really appreciate the support!
![Wheel Tire Car Vehicle Land vehicle]()
A 2012 Chevrolet Cruze LS with
2002 Mercedes C230 Kompressor supercharger
2006 Mini Cooper S bypass valve
2003-2009 Nissan 350Z CF intake vent
2019-2021 Mazda 6 front lip
what's next?
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AEM Performance Electronics | Aftermarket Performance Parts
![Font Rectangle Electric blue Vehicle registration plate Symbol]()
FIVE8 INDUSTRIES - READY. SET. LOWER.
![Rectangle Jersey Automotive design Sportswear Font]()
EZ Lip: Universal Spoiler Lip Kits | Stick-on Front Splitters
![Grey Wood Font Twig Electric blue]()
DIP OUTLET | Canada's source for Plasti Dip
All underlined items are hyperlinked to the post showing it.General things done
A 2012 Chevrolet Cruze LS with
2002 Mercedes C230 Kompressor supercharger
2006 Mini Cooper S bypass valve
2003-2009 Nissan 350Z CF intake vent
2019-2021 Mazda 6 front lip
what's next?
AEM Performance Electronics | Aftermarket Performance Parts
FIVE8 INDUSTRIES - READY. SET. LOWER.
EZ Lip: Universal Spoiler Lip Kits | Stick-on Front Splitters
DIP OUTLET | Canada's source for Plasti Dip
All underlined items are hyperlinked to the post showing it.
- K&N Intake
- New NGK Iridium plugs
- Cruze big 3 kit
- Tuned with HPTuners MPVI2 (added launch control and changed redline)
- CDV Delete (want to do the accumulator too eventually)
- EZLip Pro
- Universal spoiler
- Debadged
- Chrome delete
- Restored ECO wheels (2nd post)
- New summer tires, Continental ExtremeContact DWS06, 235/50ZR17
- Five8 coilovers (+sponsorship!) - Five8 Industries Installation log
- Walker 24442 resonator, Totalflow 20015 Muffler 2.25" ID, Trubenz 2.25" OD aluminized
- New shift boot and shift knob
- HyperDip wheels Bronze Gold
- Sylvania zXe H13 headlight bulbs and Yearly headlight restore
- New fog lights and yellow wrap
- Mazda 6 front lip (and install the EZLip pro on that)
- Carbon fiber 350z bumper air vent
- Upgraded front brakes with PowerStop Z23 kit (post 2)
- Replace faulty rear wheel speed sensor
Front bumper plastic bezel custom cutout for intake air (the blank bezel where the fog lights go)Installed Chinese lowering springsSecond cat and muffler delete
- Bedline most of the underside of the car to prevent further rust (steel brush, rust inhibitor, then undercoat)
- Install dual 3.5" double wall exhaust tips
- Aluminium braze portions of the charge pipes together (budget TIG welding anyone?)
- Install Boost Gauge (2nd post)
- Install AFR Gauge
- Design and make SC mounting bracket
- Design and make SC in/out ports plate (Part 1)
- Design and make bracket for extra pulley
- Cut out new gasket for the SC in/out port plate
- Repair drivers side rocker panel (Post 2) (Post 3) (Post 4)
- Repair rust above rear wheel well where the rear bumper mounts
- Change transmission oil with the good AMSOIL stuff
- Fix defrost
- Change engine oil
- Check toe alignment
- Check headlight alignment
- Check for exhaust leaks
- Light tint on rear windows
- Swap to LEDs (everything but headlights)
- Coolant flush
- [_] Air fuel ratio gauge - Sponsored by AEM Electronics
- [_] Mercedes gasket no. A 111 098 03 80 (will need to make my own, even the Mercedes dealership can't get it anymore) (traced and cutting)
- [_] fuel regulator?
- [_] serpentine belt (need to finalize design and see if I'll be using an extra pulley for more contact area)
- [_] custom designed brackets to fit the supercharger where the AC compressor is and have an extra tension pulley for more contact area
- [_] custom in/out plate (cheaper version of the creative spridgets one, maybe re-use part of the OEM one?)
- [_] injectors (maybe?)
- [X] Charge piping (2.5") (2nd post)
- [X] Design and make BOV to Bypass adapter and gasket for the adapter plate
- [X] boost gauge - Sponsored by AEM Electronics (2nd post)
- [X] supercharger (Eaton M45 from 2002 Mercedes C230 Kompressor)
- [X] intercooler (2.5" tubing variant)
- [X] Intake piping (re-use K&N intake)
- [X] Cone filter (3") (re-use K&N intake)
- [X] gauge pods, custom 3D printed (2" (52mm) single gauge pod. by oldmatedave)
- [X] Charge tubing to mount BOV to adapt for bypass valve
- [X] Mini Cooper S bypass valve
- [X] 1.5" flexible radiator hose to plumb bypass tract.
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So, this project is still underway, I just had other priorities. To summarize what I've done since my last post is that I get some new tires, cleaned my ECO wheels and sealed them (takes about 3 hours per wheel, no joke). I have three wheels done and I'm starting the third tonight. I had previously removed just the "front" side of the wheel's plastidip (I bought these used plastidipped already btw). With the tires done, I brought them to the garage to have them removed to restore them to as close to new as possible. The only plastidip left is a tiny bit in the valve stem base and in the lug nut holes bottom inner edge.
Tires are 235/50ZR17 Continental ExtremeContact DWS06, should fill in that wheel well just fine! Can't wait to get them mounted, anyways, here's a few pictures
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Tires are 235/50ZR17 Continental ExtremeContact DWS06, should fill in that wheel well just fine! Can't wait to get them mounted, anyways, here's a few pictures
Here is a better before and after of the restoring of these ECO wheels.
Here is the condition I got them in. Plastidipped with edges peeling, this was the one in the best shape too. At least they looked in good shape underneath.
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Removing the top layer of plastidip with WD40 and an old gift card.
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First side done and the top layer is all I would do during the first summer. The tires were only good for one last summer season so I was gonna have the tires removed and restore them entirely.
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As you can see, the inner rim was still entirely plastidipped at that point, but at least we could see these beautiful polished forged wheels.
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Back from the garage with the bare wheels, time to freshen up!
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With a better view now of what has to be done, I got to work.
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Then after the first wheel done, quite drastic as far as change goes if you ask me.
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What I had to remove
Process to restore
Here is the condition I got them in. Plastidipped with edges peeling, this was the one in the best shape too. At least they looked in good shape underneath.
Removing the top layer of plastidip with WD40 and an old gift card.
First side done and the top layer is all I would do during the first summer. The tires were only good for one last summer season so I was gonna have the tires removed and restore them entirely.
As you can see, the inner rim was still entirely plastidipped at that point, but at least we could see these beautiful polished forged wheels.
Back from the garage with the bare wheels, time to freshen up!
With a better view now of what has to be done, I got to work.
Then after the first wheel done, quite drastic as far as change goes if you ask me.
What I had to remove
- Rubber from the tire seats
- Corrosion in the tire seats radius
- Rubber and dirt on the outer rim
- Plastidip from the interior rim
- Two sided tape/glue from the previous wheel balancing weights
- Thick dirt above the plastidip
- SOS pads (one per wheel)
- Two sided sponge (one per wheel)
- Disposable wooden chop sticks (one per wheel)
- Fingernails
- Pine Sol
- Nu Finish "Polish"
- Goo Gone (used around half a bottle total as I put some in the bin mixture to help aid removal of gunk)
- Plastic knife
- Water
- Plastic bin (the large transparent storage ones)
- Shower
Process to restore
- Take the entire wheel to a good hot shower (as hot as I could go) to clean debris
- Took a big plastic bin filled about two inches of hot water and pine sol, then took a two sided sponge to remove as much as possible of the outer rim
- Used an SOS pad for what was left on the outer rim
- Manually peel the inside rim plastidip as much as I could, near the hub it was "soggy" with contamination from brake dust and heat likely
- SOS pad to removed gunked up plastidip
- SOS pad to remove the corrosion/metal rust from the back of the hub
- Goo Gone soaking for those weight glue/tape
- Plastic knife to remove the weight crap
- SOS pad to remove the plastidip inside the stamped lettering
- Disposable chop stick to better reach those hard to reach corners (around the valve stem for example)
- Wash the entire wheel again in a hot shower
- Wipe down with paper towels
- Sealed with two coats of Nu Finish "Polish"
Had my tire installed on the wheels yesterday. They're thicc!
![Tire Wheel Automotive tire Automotive lighting Synthetic rubber]()
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I wonder how my wife will react tonight when I bring a tire on the kitchen table for a photoshoot lol
I'll let you guys take guesses
I'll let you guys take guesses
I did my first revision for the bracket, I sent it off to get a quote to see how much they'd charge me for it. AC is where the AC mounts to and SC is where the Supercharger will mount. It will need 30mm tube spacers to be between the supercharger itself and the plate, maybe a bit more to clear the bolt heads from the AC mount. I went with 1/2" plate, but might go down to 3/8".
Now, I'm going to 3D print a few of these beforehand until I get the final design just right. I've also been email quite a few salvage yards to see if they have superchargers, I'm trying to get one for like $150 CAD shipped!
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Now, I'm going to 3D print a few of these beforehand until I get the final design just right. I've also been email quite a few salvage yards to see if they have superchargers, I'm trying to get one for like $150 CAD shipped!
And this is why you don't cheap out on aftermarket stuff boys and girls.
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