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2012 LS, 6MT, Topaz Blue, ECO wheels
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Discussion Starter · #102 ·
Restored the headlights again for the summer, this is a yearly ritual now. Also installed the Sylvania H13 zXe bulbs, kind of disappointed they're not whiter though.

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2012 LS, 6MT, Topaz Blue, ECO wheels
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Discussion Starter · #106 ·
Installed the first corner, basically it's one corner done. With the coil over upgrade, wheel upgrade and brake upgrade, looks great.
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2012 Cruze LTZ 1989 StarQuest 2004 TrialBlazer EXT
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So after drilling and Dremel work, I was able to remove the flange portion of the casted portion of the tubing from the Mercedes.

Now I need to make both sides flat, then make a plate to go over it to then braze that and two ends up bead rolled 2.5" tubing for it to be usable!

I also started cutting the gasket for this yesterday in a Fel-Pro sheet.
So I'm curious as to why you didn't use the already formed pieces from the charger intake and out let and adapt from there ?? Lesson learned when we did the Del Sol years ago. that housing was cast for better flow to and from the charger. if you go to a flat square to a straight 2.5 pipe your killing yourself on flow. I am glad to see your still coming along with this and hope to see it happen one day.
 

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2012 LS, 6MT, Topaz Blue, ECO wheels
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Discussion Starter · #109 ·
So I'm curious as to why you didn't use the already formed pieces from the charger intake and out let and adapt from there ?? Lesson learned when we did the Del Sol years ago. that housing was cast for better flow to and from the charger. if you go to a flat square to a straight 2.5 pipe your killing yourself on flow. I am glad to see your still coming along with this and hope to see it happen one day.
The space restrictions I have because of the size of the stock part and where they were directed didn't really make sense for the routing I planned. That's what I wanted to do first, but it just wasn't a viable option for the application. However, I plan to not have it square and have it flow better than that, likely not as good as OEM, but close.

On another note, brake job is done, not I would need to go break them in properly.
 

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2012 LS, 6MT, Topaz Blue, ECO wheels
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Discussion Starter · #110 ·
Started working on the rocker panel this weekend. Removed the quarter panel to see unseen areas where the rocker meets the body and quarter. Removed most of the loose rust and dirt, now I've started cutting where the Rust has thinned out the metal to the point its not able serve anymore. Once done I'll be spraying it with Rust converter and I will lay down and shape some mesh to mimic the shape of the rocker panel. Then apply more Rust converter and fill with expanding foam and shape it. Then it'll be bondo time, sanding, primer, paint and 2k clear.

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2014 Cruze Diesel, 2007 Cobalt, 1981 Camaro Z28, 2017 Volt
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As long as the rust has only gotten through the outer-most panel, you should be good to do that. If it's into any of the inner panels - which are all high strength steel, then you'll need more intensive replacement to maintain the strength that joint provides.
 
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Discussion Starter · #112 ·
As long as the rust has only gotten through the outer-most panel, you should be good to do that. If it's into any of the inner panels - which are all high strength steel, then you'll need more intensive replacement to maintain the strength that joint provides.
That's what I checked first, the rust only goes through the non-structural part, the rest is in good shape thankfully.

I removed all the bad portion and rust converted it all. Tonight I'll be putting some mesh to help give it some structure and to help the foam expand better following the body lines.
 

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2012 LS, 6MT, Topaz Blue, ECO wheels
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Discussion Starter · #113 ·
I've been fiddling quite a bit lately in trying to figure out where to put my bypass valve tract and where the place my MAF. This is what I assume is correct, can anyone confirm?


Filter -> MAF -> Bypass return -> Supercharger -> Intercooler -> Bypass valve -> Throttle Body -> Intake Manifold
 

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If I recall on my Cobalt, the bypass valve just dumps right into a passage into the intake manifold directly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #115 · (Edited)
Is this what they mean with "trust the process". Kept as much as I possible could. re-rust converted once the heavy rince was done, foamed inside the cracks and holes, layed some mesh to give structure to the front and rear holes, sprayed more foam, then sprayed a third time more foam to make sure everything is sealed and built up enough.

Started rough trimming with a small hacksaw metal blade.

I'll be making myself a templace of the shape of it to help me make sure I remove just enough to cover with body filler.
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Discussion Starter · #116 · (Edited)
Welp, finished my exhaust (minus the tips),
Also finished the body work, now I just need to put some primer, paint and clear. It's not perfect, but not too bad.

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Discussion Starter · #119 ·
I'll be honest with everyone, I was at a crossroad for a few weeks, keep it, sell it, junk it. I looked at used cars, I looked at new cars, I even looked at trading.

My conclusion, throw that car to a body shop, have it entirely redone to look new, redo the entire exhaust from head to end of tail pipe with new parts. Once it passes inspection again, put back the Five8 coilovers and enjoy the crap out of it for at least another 10 years!
 
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