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Ok , I finally got everything on. the Whiteline front sway bar and ZZP big brake kit. Boy!!!! Putting this sway bar on made me say words I didnt know existed 馃槫 A heads up for anyone who wants to attemp it. This is a rough description.I have the base model with a manual trans not sure if other cruzes are the same. Says to lower the entire subframe but I took a shortcut and only lowered the rear of the subframe didnt see or find any damage or stress signs and the car runs and performs great Disassembly was pretty smooth just going by the repair manual. You will have to drop a few things. Biggest thing is the subframe, before you do all of that you pretty much have to take the entire front end apart. Remove the rotors secure the calipers Separate the struts from the hub assembly, separate the steering links away from the hub assembly separate the swaybar links from the sway bar. You will need to do this to separate everything fastening the car to the subframe so it can be lowered. Separate the steering colum from the steering wheel located inside behind the pedals.( make sure the steering is locked and you marked the shaft ) also make sure you disconnect the battery there is a risk of discharging the air bag messing around with the steering colum. There is also a "SUB"subframe holding the exhaust you will have to lower that and separate the exhaust as well. Remove the transmission mount bolt make sure to place a jack or a stand under the point where the trans bolts to the mount. The sub frame should be ready to lower. There are two large bolts holding the frame with what looks to be captive washers. The manual states that you should only lower it a few inches After that there are two blots that hold the steering assembly in place there are mating nuts on top, remove those to move the steering assembly you dont have to remove completely this is just to give you more room for the larger swaybar.Unplug your O2 sensor. So that few inches the book said to lower the subframe will have to be stretched by 5 to 6 inches I found this out by accident( be sure to disconnect your O2 sensor) there are four bolts holding the sway bar take those out and carefully wrestle out the swaybar. Mine somewhat slipped out through the rear of the subframe. Installing the new one is where the headache comes in. Because its slightly larger than the factory. You will need help getting it in, I was on my own so I had to make use of zip ties to hold the steering assembly up and away from the swaybar also using them to hold one end of the bar while I mount the other side. After mounting the swaybar the hard part is over it gets easy everything goes back together very smoothly. The big brake kit is just like normal rotors and calipers. Small modifications are needed you will have to bend the dust cover away from the rotors or they will rub. You will also have to trim some of the dust cover away where the caliper mounts I wish I took pictures before I mounted everything I will take the wheel off and show later. I read the reviews on ZZP website I think everyone ran into this. I'm sure there are other ways im open to opinions the provided brake lines are smaller I took a rubber hose and cut down the middle to place the steel braided lines in the holder where the factory hose mounted. The factory rotor is held on with a Torx screw remove that and give it a few taps with a rubber mallet. After that. Just a lot of bleeding. The brakes will fit under the factory 16" wheels with a few inches to spare in the picture I have everything loosely mounted. Overall I love the performance of the car it feels like a kart to me body roll is almost eliminated, the steering is much lighter and responsive after switching from steel wheels to aluminum, with the lighter calipers. Braking is great stops on dime may need more bleeding though. The recent upgrades in combination with my previous ( Ultra Racing front and rear braces, Whiteline rear anti roll bar,Eibach lowering springs, K&N Typhoon, ZZP short throw shifter, Trifecta tune. Some .........ok sport tires) really makes this car a blast to drive maybe on the middle bmw spectrum. If you are into handles I do recommend this setup its very much worth it especially on some curvy back roads.
 

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2014 LT program car, Pull Me Over Red, 1.4T Auto
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Ok , I finally got everything on. the Whiteline front sway bar and ZZP big brake kit. Boy!!!! Putting this sway bar on made me say words I didnt know existed 馃槫 A heads up for anyone who wants to attemp it. This is a rough description.I have the base model with a manual trans not sure if other cruzes are the same.

Says to lower the entire subframe but I took a shortcut and only lowered the rear of the subframe didnt see or find any damage or stress signs and the car runs and performs great Disassembly was pretty smooth just going by the repair manual. You will have to drop a few things. Biggest thing is the subframe, before you do all of that you pretty much have to take the entire front end apart.

1. Remove the rotors secure the calipers
2. Separate the struts from the hub assembly,
3. separate the steering links away from the hub assembly
4. separate the swaybar links from the sway bar. You will need to do this to separate everything fastening the car to the subframe so it can be lowered.
5. Separate the steering colum from the steering wheel located inside behind the pedals.( make sure the steering is locked and you marked the shaft ) also make sure you disconnect the battery there is a risk of discharging the air bag messing around with the steering colum.
6. There is also a "SUB"subframe holding the exhaust you will have to lower that and separate the exhaust as well.
7. Remove the transmission mount bolt make sure to place a jack or a stand under the point where the trans bolts to the mount.
8. The sub frame should be ready to lower. There are two large bolts holding the frame with what looks to be captive washers. The manual states that you should only lower it a few inches After that there are two blots that hold the steering assembly in place there are mating nuts on top, remove those to move the steering assembly you dont have to remove completely this is just to give you more room for the larger swaybar.
9. Unplug your O2 sensor. So that few inches the book said to lower the subframe will have to be stretched by 5 to 6 inches I found this out by accident( be sure to disconnect your O2 sensor) there are four bolts holding the sway bar take those out and carefully wrestle out the swaybar. Mine somewhat slipped out through the rear of the subframe.

Installing the new one is where the headache comes in. Because its slightly larger than the factory. You will need help getting it in, I was on my own so I had to make use of zip ties to hold the steering assembly up and away from the swaybar also using them to hold one end of the bar while I mount the other side. After mounting the swaybar the hard part is over it gets easy everything goes back together very smoothly.


The big brake kit is just like normal rotors and calipers. Small modifications are needed you will have to bend the dust cover away from the rotors or they will rub. You will also have to trim some of the dust cover away where the caliper mounts I wish I took pictures before I mounted everything I will take the wheel off and show later. I read the reviews on ZZP website I think everyone ran into this. I'm sure there are other ways im open to opinions the provided brake lines are smaller I took a rubber hose and cut down the middle to place the steel braided lines in the holder where the factory hose mounted.

The factory rotor is held on with a Torx screw remove that and give it a few taps with a rubber mallet. After that. Just a lot of bleeding. The brakes will fit under the factory 16" wheels with a few inches to spare in the picture I have everything loosely mounted. Overall I love the performance of the car it feels like a kart to me body roll is almost eliminated, the steering is much lighter and responsive after switching from steel wheels to aluminum, with the lighter calipers. Braking is great stops on dime may need more bleeding though. The recent upgrades in combination with my previous ( Ultra Racing front and rear braces, Whiteline rear anti roll bar,Eibach lowering springs, K&N Typhoon, ZZP short throw shifter, Trifecta tune. Some .........ok sport tires) really makes this car a blast to drive maybe on the middle bmw spectrum. If you are into handles I do recommend this setup its very much worth it especially on some curvy back roads.
 

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Very nice, not many of us had the dedication to do the front bar. If you ever wanted to do B14 coil overs and a free rear white line sway bar let me know. I鈥檓 looking to get rid of mine new in box.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ok , I finally got everything on. the Whiteline front sway bar and ZZP big brake kit. Boy!!!! Putting this sway bar on made me say words I didnt know existed 馃槫 A heads up for anyone who wants to attemp it. This is a rough description.I have the base model with a manual trans not sure if other cruzes are the same.

Says to lower the entire subframe but I took a shortcut and only lowered the rear of the subframe didnt see or find any damage or stress signs and the car runs and performs great Disassembly was pretty smooth just going by the repair manual. You will have to drop a few things. Biggest thing is the subframe, before you do all of that you pretty much have to take the entire front end apart.

1. Remove the rotors secure the calipers
2. Separate the struts from the hub assembly,
3. separate the steering links away from the hub assembly
4. separate the swaybar links from the sway bar. You will need to do this to separate everything fastening the car to the subframe so it can be lowered.
5. Separate the steering colum from the steering wheel located inside behind the pedals.( make sure the steering is locked and you marked the shaft ) also make sure you disconnect the battery there is a risk of discharging the air bag messing around with the steering colum.
6. There is also a "SUB"subframe holding the exhaust you will have to lower that and separate the exhaust as well.
7. Remove the transmission mount bolt make sure to place a jack or a stand under the point where the trans bolts to the mount.
8. The sub frame should be ready to lower. There are two large bolts holding the frame with what looks to be captive washers. The manual states that you should only lower it a few inches After that there are two blots that hold the steering assembly in place there are mating nuts on top, remove those to move the steering assembly you dont have to remove completely this is just to give you more room for the larger swaybar.
9. Unplug your O2 sensor. So that few inches the book said to lower the subframe will have to be stretched by 5 to 6 inches I found this out by accident( be sure to disconnect your O2 sensor) there are four bolts holding the sway bar take those out and carefully wrestle out the swaybar. Mine somewhat slipped out through the rear of the subframe.

Installing the new one is where the headache comes in. Because its slightly larger than the factory. You will need help getting it in, I was on my own so I had to make use of zip ties to hold the steering assembly up and away from the swaybar also using them to hold one end of the bar while I mount the other side. After mounting the swaybar the hard part is over it gets easy everything goes back together very smoothly.


The big brake kit is just like normal rotors and calipers. Small modifications are needed you will have to bend the dust cover away from the rotors or they will rub. You will also have to trim some of the dust cover away where the caliper mounts I wish I took pictures before I mounted everything I will take the wheel off and show later. I read the reviews on ZZP website I think everyone ran into this. I'm sure there are other ways im open to opinions the provided brake lines are smaller I took a rubber hose and cut down the middle to place the steel braided lines in the holder where the factory hose mounted.

The factory rotor is held on with a Torx screw remove that and give it a few taps with a rubber mallet. After that. Just a lot of bleeding. The brakes will fit under the factory 16" wheels with a few inches to spare in the picture I have everything loosely mounted. Overall I love the performance of the car it feels like a kart to me body roll is almost eliminated, the steering is much lighter and responsive after switching from steel wheels to aluminum, with the lighter calipers. Braking is great stops on dime may need more bleeding though. The recent upgrades in combination with my previous ( Ultra Racing front and rear braces, Whiteline rear anti roll bar,Eibach lowering springs, K&N Typhoon, ZZP short throw shifter, Trifecta tune. Some .........ok sport tires) really makes this car a blast to drive maybe on the middle bmw spectrum. If you are into handles I do recommend this setup its very much worth it especially on some curvy back roads.
Yeah I think they are a 1" or 1/2" larger
 
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