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I was going to recommend AMSOIL coolant boost for this, but running your engine for half an hour and needle still being on cold? Sounds like the thermostat is stuck open.

That is, unless the heat was on max with recirculate off. Then, the heater could literally cool the engine down. Not sure if it would keep it that cold though.
 

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It can get bitter cold in Indiana. Single digits to 40's are normal temps for winter here although we do see temps beyond 10 below in which case, I would understand it not warming up for a while, but in the normal winter temperatures it shouldn't be a problem.
I'm in NW Indiana so I know how cold it has been, but after half an hour, the car should be warmed up unless you had the heater on the max fan and heat setting. If you did, then it would be normal.
 

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I interested yet skeptical that anything I could add to the coolant would help it warm up, without some sort of trade off in cooling capacity.

I can have heat in 10 minutes also, just need to head straight out onto the highway at 55mph+.
Not one person reported not seeing a difference so far. I'd have to look through and see how many people bought the product but it's in multiple dozens.

The science behind surfectants used in antifreeze is not a new one. The idea is that by improving the surface tension of the antifreeze, you can improve thermal transfer.

I demonstrated in my vendor section through a screenshot that even with the coolant boost, on a Crown Vic, there was an over 30F gap between the cylinder head temp and the antifreeze temp. This is because thermal transfer is not instantaneous. What this does is close the gap between antifreeze temp and the engine block and cylinder head temp.

In reality, you are actually causing the *engine* to take longer to heat up, but the *antifreeze* is heating up more quickly. To you, it will appear as though the engine is warming up more quickly because the temp gauge measures antifreeze temp, not cylinder head temp.

The same improved thermal transfer then dissipates more heat through the heater core to bring you heat faster in the cabin.

In my car, the air is lukewarm by 110F. By 120F, it is positively warm and I can increase fan speed. Note: 120F is the "cold" mark on the temp gauge, and on a 20F day, I get heat in the cabin at that temperature. By 140F, I get comfortable heat.
 

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I kinda saw temps with dominator but from driving it w/o idle. I purposely left the car outside of the heated garage tonight to see how long it takes to warm up in 4 hrs when I leave work.

XR which CV? CVPI have some kind of rear cylinder heat pipe that isn't on the Civilian CV's. Can't find the thread as it was like 10 years ago when I was gonna do it on my 4V 4.6.

This..

www.reinhartperformance.com: REINHART COOLING KIT
It was my upline dealer's CV, and he bought it at auction and wrapped it with AMSOIL marketing. I believe it was a CVPI. Here's the scan he sent me:



You can see cylinder head temp at 198F and engine coolant temp at 165F, a difference of 33F after using coolant boost. He said his warm-up times drastically reduced after adding it, and given that temperature gap between the coolant and the cylinder head, I can see why.
 
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