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I'm not sure what speakers the parking assist is supposed to go through.

A few others of us have noticed the static too. I'm still not sure what the solution to it will be. It may be coming from the PAC harness, or it may be coming from the radio, but is more pronounced now that you have better speakers and higher gains on the amplifier. I'll be doing some experimenting later this year to see if I can make it go away.

What kind of voltage are the input sections of the amplifiers seeing with the stock headunit setup?

This could be a case where a balanced line driver is actually warranted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #442 ·
What kind of voltage are the input sections of the amplifiers seeing with the stock headunit setup?

This could be a case where a balanced line driver is actually warranted.
I can tell you off the bat that it isn't the RCAs. It's a signal produced either by the head unit or by the PAC harness.

Any ideas as far as specific products?
 

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Well a line driver will only help if the noise floor is the issue from a weak input section. (almost obsolete with aftermarket headunits nowadays. I wasn't sure what these stock headunit setups are like though)

A balanced line driver will have a signal and its inverted signal. Any noise introduced into the system from headlights, defrosters, etc will be common among the signals and is filtered out. In addition to boosting the preout voltage (allowing for a lower gain to be used...leading to a reduced nosie floor)

If there is any noise in the system, it is important to use a balanced line driver rather than an unbalanced.



http://www.sonicelectronix.com/cat_i697_line-drivers.html

there is a variety there depending on the application.
 

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Bringing this thread back to the surface.
XR, great information . I’m learning a lot. I stumbled upon this thread as I searched for info on car audio.
I purchased a 2014 cruze just 2 weeks ago. I think the Chevy Cruze is a very underated car. I would like to do an upgrade to the stereo system, as the stock system in the LS is lacking. Last time I bought a fairly new car was in 2000 & I installed a system at the same time, which I thought was pretty good. Man things have changed since then. Consider me a noobe. I want to keep the factory head unit, install 2 amps that I have & upgrade the speakers. The amps I have are small. One is a Kicker IX402 & the other is an Alpine 3519. I’ve had these amps for years & haven’t put them to use in a very long time. Was looking for your expertise on a few things. I would like to keep the install as simple as possible. I plan on purchasing the speakers you recommended & also the sound deadening. Do you think the factory speaker wiring would be adequate given the low wattage amplifiers? I’m looking for crisp clean sound, not super super loud. Not sure I want a Sub. I never thought it made sense to have a loud obnoxious thumping going down the road like most of the young kids have. Very annoying.
I recently purchased a Pac AA-GM44 LOC just to get a look at the harness. I did not want to use the LOC in this kit. I noticed the wiring to this LOC is just spliced into the harness & still utilizes the factory speaker wires. In other words, the way it is wired, the head unit still feeds directly to the speakers. Not exactly what I expected. I think the Pac unit was designed as a means for adding amps to the system while retaining the factory speaker hook up. Doesn’t make much sense the way the harness is laid out.
I was looking into DSP’s as I never heard of them before. Apparently these units are the way to go. I have no laptop or any other means to set one up. I was looking at the kicker front stage & the audio control DQ-61. I understand these two do not require a laptop interface to set up & I won’t have to break the bank to own one. I’m leaning towards the DQ-61 from everything I’ve read about it. What I was planning on doing was cutting the wires on the PAC harness & running some 9 wire from the head side to either the Kicker front stage or DQ-61, whichever one I decide on, & then wire up the amps & then more 9 wire back up to the pac harness to feed the speakers through the factory harness. Basically creating one big loop. Does this make sense? Do you see any problems with anything in this set up?
I’m sure I’ll have more questions as I continue to research this stuff. Your write ups have been a great inspiration. Thank you for that.
Rich.
 

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Is this the correct door speaker that you mentioned?
I only ask because I'm questioning the S on the end of the part #.

ebay.com/itm/Silverflute-Silver-Flute-speaker-W17RC38-S-4-ohm-6-1-2-NIB-heavy-magnet-/391621052401?hash=item5b2e6f07f1:g:d4wAAOSwgmJX0bxl

Also, any thoughts on the JBL GTO 19T tweeter for the a pillars. Noticed it specs out at 3 ohms to work well with OEM wiring.
 
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