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Discussion Starter · #41 · (Edited)
What's the difference between a v2 and a v3?
The V2 started production 2002. They are generally regarded as excellent SQ subs. Low xmax (comparatively), low moving mass, very high sensitivity. You could make an IDQ10 sing with 50W of power. Very musical, very detailed.

The V3 started several years later (I don't know the exact date), but they have higher power handling, higher xmax, but still retained some of that sound quality. They still have a very low moving mass, but can dig deeper. Some say the IDQ V3 sounds just like the IDQ V2 but with a higher power handling. I suppose it depends on the kind of music you listen to. The IDQ V2 drivers aren't drivers to be used for rap, hip-hop, dubstep, or any synthetic bass that digs below ~40hz. It will play those notes without a problem, but the limited mechanical excursion will have them bottom out more easily. What I'm trying to say is that if you want an SPL driver, the IDQ V2 isn't your cup of tea unless you use them in multiples or get the 15" like the one I have.

The V3s will sound similar, but will require slightly larger boxes, have higher power handling, and have higher output capability.

I guess to summarize, the V3 has higher output, but the V2 has slightly better sound quality. I'm saying this compared to each other. The V3 IDQ is still significantly better than just about any other sub in its price range in sound quality, and both the V2 and V3 are pretty close in sound quality. The V3 of course is going to be more expensive.

If you buy an IDQ V3, you will certainly not be disappointed.
 

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I dont listen to rap, dubstep, or techo bunny stuff. i really dont care about spl, any mokey can make a truck rattle. lol. i'm wanting sq. Should I wait to find a v2 or just go with the v3 and not look back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
I dont listen to rap, dubstep, or techo bunny stuff. i really dont care about spl, any mokey can make a truck rattle. lol. i'm wanting sq. Should I wait to find a v2 or just go with the v3 and not look back.
If you need a sub right now, then just order the IDQ V3. If you can wait a bit, keep an eye on ebay to see if one comes up. If it does, order it. If it doesn't and you reach the point where you do need a sub, grab the IDQ V3. They're both excellent subs.
 

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You won't get much better response than that tweeter. Believe me, I looked for a while, and the options are very few in the size that will fit behind that door pillar and also have the ability to cross that low. The replacements for that model from Morel are $117 apiece, so you won't be getting that kind of performance for cheap. I got lucky when I got them for $60 shipped for the pair. A fellow over on techtalk.parts-express.com was very generous when he made me the offer after seeing that I was looking for a good tweeter for the Cruze.

That said, I did find this tweeter, which I would consider to be the next best thing. Sensitivity is a tad bit lower, but you should be able to use a relatively low crossover point. Somewhere around 1800-2000 should work for this tweeter.

Morel MDT 12 1-1/8" Neodymium Tweeter 277-060

I'd take the pillar covers off first and measure to make 100% sure that you'll be able to fit it in there. I don't think there will be an issue, but double check before buying.
Dynaudio tweets will play that low...
 

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If you need a sub right now, then just order the IDQ V3. If you can wait a bit, keep an eye on ebay to see if one comes up. If it does, order it. If it doesn't and you reach the point where you do need a sub, grab the IDQ V3. They're both excellent subs.
Would also recommend RE Audio. I run a SEX 104 in my GTI off a Zuki Eleets 5ch Hybrid amplifier and it is extremely musical.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 · (Edited)
Would also recommend RE Audio. I run a SEX 104 in my GTI off a Zuki Eleets 5ch Hybrid amplifier and it is extremely musical.
I really don't like that they don't list a MMS (moving mass) for that sub.

Looking over the specs, they're not very efficient and don't have a whole lot of cone area for the size of the sub. Their 10" SEX has 310 cm^2 of cone area compared to 399 CM^2 on the IDQ10 V3, which is an increase of nearly 30%. That probably has a whole lot to do with the massive surround on the RE sub. An 83.2db efficiency also isn't too efficient compared to 85db on the IDQ10 V3, which means you'll need ~1.5x the power on the RE SEX10 to get the same amount of SPL as you would out of the IDQ10 V3.

Not at all a bad sub, but you can't really compare it to an IDQ. They're also not in the same price range, as the IDQ costs $50 more. I do think the RE SEX10 is a good value for the $150 price point.

Dynaudio tweets will play that low...
Yeah, which ones and for what price? Keep in mind, we're on a normal person's budget with this thread. So far, my costs have been as follows:

PAC Harness: $40
Amplifiers: $230
Tweeters: $60
Woofers: $65
Deadening: $130
MiniDSP: $150
IDQ15: $125
Power Wiring: $70

Total: ~$870.

That's probably going to come in right around $900 with a few more odds and ends that I need, maybe $1000 with all of the sub box materials and other unforeseen expenses. You really won't be beating this system for value, that's for sure.
 

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hey XtremeRevolution, i am not trying to hijack your thread but what is your opinion on this set up? JL Audio 10W1sub, MB Quart QM160 6-1/2" with cross-overs, MB Quart QM1216KX 6-1/2", ADS P240 amp, ADS P440 amp, Audio Control EQL . I would also need help designing a box if you could help. I am going for sound quality and would like to keep my trunk space. I listen mostly to hard rock. The t/s parameters are fs-23.6, qes-0.422, qms-6.673, vas-3.36, sd-51.8, xmax-.313. thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
hey XtremeRevolution, i am not trying to hijack your thread but what is your opinion on this set up? JL Audio 10W1sub, MB Quart QM160 6-1/2" with cross-overs, MB Quart QM1216KX 6-1/2", ADS P240 amp, ADS P440 amp, Audio Control EQL . I would also need help designing a box if you could help. I am going for sound quality and would like to keep my trunk space. I listen mostly to hard rock. The t/s parameters are fs-23.6, qes-0.422, qms-6.673, vas-3.36, sd-51.8, xmax-.313. thanks
Those MB Quart QM160s look old. Very old. Do these have a separate tweeter? What does the crossover look like? I can't find much information about them. The QM1216KX coaxials look ok. I don't really put much into the rear speakers anyway so if that's your goal, they should do just fine.

ADS equipment isn't very well known, but it's good quality stuff. I believe they bought out PPI at one point. The EQ should help you significantly if you have a good ear.

I'll get you a box design later tonight or tomorrow. I'm assuming that Vas value is in cubic feet?
 

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I've decided that i'm going to go with the IDQ12 V3 for now and just keep my eyes open for the V2, If i find it i can always put the V3 in the explorer and part out the alpines that are in there. Can you come up with a sealed box design for that V3 that will take up as little room in the trunk as possible. I'd still like to have room for my ohh **** bag plus lugage when I go on road trips.
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
I've decided that i'm going to go with the IDQ12 V3 for now and just keep my eyes open for the V2, If i find it i can always put the V3 in the explorer and part out the alpines that are in there. Can you come up with a sealed box design for that V3 that will take up as little room in the trunk as possible. I'd still like to have room for my ohh **** bag plus lugage when I go on road trips.
1.0 cubic foot sealed gross volume. Double thick baffle (use the second as a recess), line the back with one layer of ~2.5" acoustic foam or mineral wool.
 

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Those MB Quart QM160s look old. Very old. Do these have a separate tweeter? What does the crossover look like? I can't find much information about them. The QM1216KX coaxials look ok. I don't really put much into the rear speakers anyway so if that's your goal, they should do just fine.

ADS equipment isn't very well known, but it's good quality stuff. I believe they bought out PPI at one point. The EQ should help you significantly if you have a good ear.

I'll get you a box design later tonight or tomorrow. I'm assuming that Vas value is in cubic feet?
Sorry for the large pics and yes thats cubic feet



 

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I've found a MB Quart FX4.70 It will do 70w x4 @ 4 ohms. $100 with shipping. What do you think about that amp for running the woofers and tweets? I already have a old kenwood 6104d sitting in the closet, was thinking that i'd use that for the sub amp.
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
I've found a MB Quart FX4.70 It will do 70w x4 @ 4 ohms. $100 with shipping. What do you think about that amp for running the woofers and tweets? I already have a old kenwood 6104d sitting in the closet, was thinking that i'd use that for the sub amp.
That would work fine for the woofers and tweets.
 

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There are a lot of subs out there that will fit in very small boxes under 50 pounds . The Alpine 8" Type R can be used in under .5 cubic feet. The dayton HO 10 fits in well under 1 cubic foot sealed. I can't recommend a good sub without knowing what your goal, budget, and listening preferences are.

Sent from my Bulletproof_Doubleshot using AutoGuide.Com Free App
Sorry it took me so long to get back to this. I kept logging into reply to this, and everytime I would forget to get to this topic. Im looking to go purpose built for SQ. I want it to be small and impressive. The most important thing to me is going to be sound deadening. Im very detail oriented and to even hear a peep out of a rattle, I will try to fix it. I know there isnt any way to get things completely silent, but I will get as close to perfection as possible.

I want to feel the bass. Dont get me wrong, I know I want SQ, but I also like to feel when the bass hits. For this reason, I may do 2 10s. Im not looking to compete in competitions but Id like to have something that has that kind of sound quality. I dont want to drop an arm and a leg on the system, I can drop as much as I want on it. But there comes a point to me, where things will get out of hand. So if you tell me, what I want to do will be $2,000. Ill drop the $2,000. At this point, I will be replacing everything except the head unit. Which we talked about earlier in the thread.

As for listening style. I listen to just about everything except for bluegrass and country. I dont listen to death metal or hard boom boom "sneaker in the dryer" stuff either. I like Al Dimeola, 80s, Journey, 90's on XM.
 

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i've come up with 15" x 15" x 7.5" deep. That puts me just a few inches below 1cf before compinsating for displacement for the sub and fill, Being that this will be normally powerd around 300w Does that sound right to you or should I give it just a tad bit more room? Also should i go with a D2 and bridge it to 4ohms or just go with the D4 and not worry about bridgeing the sub?
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
Sorry it took me so long to get back to this. I kept logging into reply to this, and everytime I would forget to get to this topic. Im looking to go purpose built for SQ. I want it to be small and impressive. The most important thing to me is going to be sound deadening. Im very detail oriented and to even hear a peep out of a rattle, I will try to fix it. I know there isnt any way to get things completely silent, but I will get as close to perfection as possible.

I want to feel the bass. Dont get me wrong, I know I want SQ, but I also like to feel when the bass hits. For this reason, I may do 2 10s. Im not looking to compete in competitions but Id like to have something that has that kind of sound quality. I dont want to drop an arm and a leg on the system, I can drop as much as I want on it. But there comes a point to me, where things will get out of hand. So if you tell me, what I want to do will be $2,000. Ill drop the $2,000. At this point, I will be replacing everything except the head unit. Which we talked about earlier in the thread.
If sound deadening is important to you, I can only direct you again to Don at sounddeadenershowdown.com. His equipment is the best I've ever used before. Definitely get in touch with him and ask him for a quote for front and rear doors and trunklid.

I get the impression that you want purpose built SQ but not competition grade SQ. If you wanted competition grade SQ, I'd point you to a Morel Ultimo sub, which will set you back $760 for one 10", but I don't think you want to go that far and the value isn't quite as high as another sub I know of...

You see, if I had your kind of money, there is one sub that I would be running right now.

Aurasound NS12-794-4A 12" Subwoofer: Madisound Speaker Store

That single 12" sub would likely be the most incredible sub you will have ever heard in your life. That is, if you wanted to spend the money and could afford the space. You'll need 1.5-2.0 cubic feet for it. I'd put it between the IDQ and the Morel Ultimo with regard to sound quality.

Now, here's the problem. An IDQ10 driver has 399 cm^2 of cone area and will work well in 1 cubic foot of space. The Aurasound sub has 487 cm^2 of cone area and will need 1.5-2.0 cubic feet of space and is over 2x the price of an IDQ10. That neodymium motor in the Aurasound is extremely powerful and has been noted to provide absolutely incredible sound quality.

I figured if you had a budget bigger than mine and wanted something that would make me drool, you'd be looking for one or two of those. The only problem with it is that some have mentioned that it doesn't get that loud for a 12" sub, and that's correct; it's not a whole lot bigger with regard to cone area than a good 10" sub, but I figured I'd throw it into the mix if you wanted to know what I consider to be an excellent SQ sub.

Otherwise, I'd recommend either two IDQ10 or two IDQ12 V3 subs. More cone area allows you to stay within xmax for longer without distortion creeping in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
i've come up with 15" x 15" x 7.5" deep. That puts me just a few inches below 1cf before compinsating for displacement for the sub and fill, Being that this will be normally powerd around 300w Does that sound right to you or should I give it just a tad bit more room? Also should i go with a D2 and bridge it to 4ohms or just go with the D4 and not worry about bridgeing the sub?
That 1 cubic foot is a gross volume. Displacement is already factored in. If you wanted to use that amp at 2 ohms, you'd need the D4 version of the sub and wire it to 2ohms. That said, 300W is on the low side of what I'd give the IDQ12. I think you're doing the sub a bit of a disservice with that amp. I'd give it a solid 700-1000W as you have a chance to clip the amp and fry the sub if you clip it. You'd have to be pretty careful.

If you were limited to that amp, I would recommend this subwoofer instead:

Seas L26ROY 10" Subwoofer - D1001-04 - 4 ohm: Madisound Speaker Store
 

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
If i am keeping my factory radio and going to use this Audio Control EQL would I still need to get the PAC AA-GM44 Amplifier Integration Interface?
Does the Audio Control EQL also serve as a line out converter? The PAC AA-GM44 is a line out converter that provides you with two sets of RCAs for both front and rear, but doesn't require to splice or cut any wires.
 
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