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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello Fellow Cruze'ers

I wanted to get advice from everyone on detailing. I recently purchased a brand new 2012 Cruze in the middle of the winter. Now that the weather is nice or at least getting nice, I want to really do a great job at protecting the paint and keeping this car nice!

My question to you is what is the best way to protect the paint. I guess a better question, what is a good "process" or "step to step" guide?

Wash, dry, clay bar, wash, dry, polish, wax??? Correct order? How often is safe and how offten is dangerous?

Also what products to you suggest for
-wash
-clay bar
-polish
-wax ( liquid or paste?)

Basically, im just trying to figure out how to take care of my new car best! My biggest fear is that I use the wrong product and end up EATING my clear coat or somthing.

I really enjoy this forum and looking at what everyone has to say and share. I have a lot of repect for all involved!

Thanks
tottenz

Keep on #cruze'in
 

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Do not tempt me again ......used a baby diaper made of cotton......no buckets with holes ...micro fiber cloths ....buffers are nice too .... you got 200.oo bucks I will reveal all of the trade secrets .....good luck chuck with this journey of a trillion Ideas ......
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well i wanna make it a thing i can do on the weekends when weather is nice. So I cant pay 150 every time haha.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Do not tempt me again ......used a baby diaper made of cotton......no buckets with holes ...micro fiber cloths ....buffers are nice too .... you got 200.oo bucks I will reveal all of the trade secrets .....good luck chuck with this journey of a trillion Ideas ......
lol, Im just trying to get a feel as how to do a decent clean!
 

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Hello Fellow Cruze'ers

I wanted to get advice from everyone on detailing. I recently purchased a brand new 2012 Cruze in the middle of the winter. Now that the weather is nice or at least getting nice, I want to really do a great job at protecting the paint and keeping this car nice!

My question to you is what is the best way to protect the paint. I guess a better question, what is a good "process" or "step to step" guide?

Wash, dry, clay bar, wash, dry, polish, wax??? Correct order? How often is safe and how offten is dangerous?

Also what products to you suggest for
-wash
-clay bar
-polish
-wax ( liquid or paste?)

Basically, im just trying to figure out how to take care of my new car best! My biggest fear is that I use the wrong product and end up EATING my clear coat or somthing.

I really enjoy this forum and looking at what everyone has to say and share. I have a lot of repect for all involved!

Thanks
tottenz

Keep on #cruze'in
First I'll start with what not to do
* DO NOT USE DISHWASHING DETERGENT TO CLEAN YOUR CAR(wrong product & will definitely strip the clearcoat off car)
* DO NOT BUFF OR WAX YOUR CAR IN DIRECT SUNLIGHT
* DO NOT USE A HIGH SPEED BUFFER IN ONE SPOT OVER LONG PERIOD
* DO NOT USE A BATH OR BEACH TOWEL TO DRY YOUR CAR
* NEVER USE A RAG OR WASH CLOTH TO WASH CAR
* MAKE SURE NO LABELS OR TAGS ARE ON YOUR WASH MIT OR MICROFIBER CLOTH OR TOWEL

Steps on how to keep your car looking new ( I prefer to use Meguiers products ) but any car detail brand product will work
*Always hand wash car to prevent fine scratches in your paint ( hand mit or microfiber cloth) * if dropped on ground rinse b4 u begin to wash again (dirt on cloth will scratch paint)
*Wash car in a cool shady area ( any brand carwash product u prefer )
*Spray on tire shine b4 drying car (preferred) keeps overspray off car after a fresh wash and wax
*Use a chamois (shammy) to dry your car

*IN THIS ORDER TO GET MAXIMUM SHINE*
1.Clay bar car (beginning of spring & after winter) or as needed
2.High speed buff car *Once a year or as needed ( only if your familiar with how to properly use it)
Otherwise use at low speeds
3.Polish car by hand or preferably orbital buffer to remover any swirls left behind by high speed buffer
4.Wax by hand or for maximum shine use orbital buffer again
*NOTE* POLISH AND WAX ARE TWO DIFFERENT CHEMICALS AND PROCESSES ALWAYS POLISH FIRST THEN WAX*
It's up to u if u want to use liquid or paste but personally liquid wax would be preferred ( professional detailers never use paste)
*It does not matter how many times u wash or wax your car. The more u do the better your chances are of keeping the clear coat on your car.. *Note if u do wash your car more than once a week u will have to wax it more often though because u will eventually wash the wax off (not the clearcoat) Basically when u start to noticed the water stop beading up on your car after u wash it then you'll know it's time to put a knew coat of wax on it. I prefer to hand wax my car every 3 months and between waxes I like to use the spray wax after each wash to keep fresh wax on it.
These are the basics of keeping your car looking new. Here's a pic of my Cruze sitting next to my 2006 Impala. It's not a really good pic but it looks just as new as my cruze. I detailed cars professionally for a long time.
 

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Those rules only pertain to red cars ..........I wrote the book already you just have to buy IT,,
 

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A rinseless car wash makes the process go faster. Get the sand and mud off, then go at the car with the rinseless wash, drying each panel with a chamois as you go. Then clay, and apply your top coat/coats. I like Duragloss 105 topped with Collinite 476 myself.

For washing items, a grout sponge will work for a sponge. Then a chamois to dry the car, some detailing cloths for applying and removing by hand. Two buckets also. One for wash solution, one for rinsing the dirty sponge out.

That's a basic setup. Others will get more specific.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
First I'll start with what not to do
* DO NOT USE DISHWASHING DETERGENT TO CLEAN YOUR CAR(wrong product & will definitely strip the clearcoat off car)
* DO NOT BUFF OR WAX YOUR CAR IN DIRECT SUNLIGHT
* DO NOT USE A HIGH SPEED BUFFER IN ONE SPOT OVER LONG PERIOD
* DO NOT USE A BATH OR BEACH TOWEL TO DRY YOUR CAR
* NEVER USE A RAG OR WASH CLOTH TO WASH CAR
* MAKE SURE NO LABELS OR TAGS ARE ON YOUR WASH MIT OR MICROFIBER CLOTH OR TOWEL

Steps on how to keep your car looking new ( I prefer to use Meguiers products ) but any car detail brand product will work
*Always hand wash car to prevent fine scratches in your paint ( hand mit or microfiber cloth) * if dropped on ground rinse b4 u begin to wash again (dirt on cloth will scratch paint)
*Wash car in a cool shady area ( any brand carwash product u prefer )
*Spray on tire shine b4 drying car (preferred) keeps overspray off car after a fresh wash and wax
*Use a chamois (shammy) to dry your car

*IN THIS ORDER TO GET MAXIMUM SHINE*
1.Clay bar car (beginning of spring & after winter) or as needed
2.High speed buff car *Once a year or as needed ( only if your familiar with how to properly use it)
Otherwise use at low speeds
3.Polish car by hand or preferably orbital buffer to remover any swirls left behind by high speed buffer
4.Wax by hand or for maximum shine use orbital buffer again
*NOTE* POLISH AND WAX ARE TWO DIFFERENT CHEMICALS AND PROCESSES ALWAYS POLISH FIRST THEN WAX*
It's up to u if u want to use liquid or paste but personally liquid wax would be preferred ( professional detailers never use paste)
*It does not matter how many times u wash or wax your car. The more u do the better your chances are of keeping the clear coat on your car.. *Note if u do wash your car more than once a week u will have to wax it more often though because u will eventually wash the wax off (not the clearcoat) Basically when u start to noticed the water stop beading up on your car after u wash it then you'll know it's time to put a knew coat of wax on it. I prefer to hand wax my car every 3 months and between waxes I like to use the spray wax after each wash to keep fresh wax on it.
These are the basics of keeping your car looking new. Here's a pic of my Cruze sitting next to my 2006 Impala. It's not a really good pic but it looks just as new as my cruze. I detailed cars professionally for a long time.
Very detailed, thanks for the help! ill put it to good use!
 

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You can also buy my book of secrets ! I tell you this canbe foundinthehow to library
 

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Go over to Detailing World forums, have a look at the thread in the studio ( The Studio - Detailing World ) and the pics will walk you through the process.
What bci26401 told you is pretty much spot on.
The better you wash your car, the less defects you will cause to its paint. Swirls are done by incorrect washing techniques. Avoid automated car washes. Avoid using the same tool to do everything. Avoid working in direct sunlight.
 

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If you are asking these questions do not buff your car! You need to watch some one do it and teach you before you burn your paint or moldings. If its black your better off never buffing. When I wax I use Auto magic BC-2 has a teflon coating and works well as a cleaner and I liked it because it doesn't cut deep when buffing.
 

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I always pay someone to do it. I don't have the shade or patience to do that myself. I've been really itching to take it, most likely next month i will...
 

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I always pay someone to do it. I don't have the shade or patience to do that myself. I've been really itching to take it, most likely next month i will...
Same here having a wife and son really takes up my time. lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
If you are asking these questions do not buff your car! You need to watch some one do it and teach you before you burn your paint or moldings. If its black your better off never buffing. When I wax I use Auto magic BC-2 has a teflon coating and works well as a cleaner and I liked it because it doesn't cut deep when buffing.
No worries! i wasnt planning on just jumping into the whole proccess! I just wanted to get a feel for how the "system" works. I do how ever plan to do washing, waxing, maybe clay bar???
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Go over to Detailing World forums, have a look at the thread in the studio ( The Studio - Detailing World ) and the pics will walk you through the process.
What bci26401 told you is pretty much spot on.
The better you wash your car, the less defects you will cause to its paint. Swirls are done by incorrect washing techniques. Avoid automated car washes. Avoid using the same tool to do everything. Avoid working in direct sunlight.
Ill check it out! thanks for the input!
 

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No worries! i wasnt planning on just jumping into the whole proccess! I just wanted to get a feel for how the "system" works. I do how ever plan to do washing, waxing, maybe clay bar???
Clay bar is for removing heavy sap and such once you clay bar you must buff.
 

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The correct way to detail is a pretty broad question. It all depends on how much time, effort, and expense you want to invest. It's possible to maintain a showroom quality finish perpetually which would technically be best for the car, but that's going to be on the high end of those scales.

Most people are more interested in utilitarian solutions. Using a clay bar is good when the car is new or when you've had a lapse in protection. As long as you've done a good job of maintaining a coat of wax on the finish, a clay bar shouldn't be necessary. I think all-in-one solutions(polish+wax) are best for most people. There are a number of good products out there and nothing by any major manufacturer is going to eat the finish on your car if applied per the directions. Carnuba is nice, but it doesn't last as long as synthetic products. Liquid waxes are marginally easier to apply than paste waxes and many of them compare quite well to paste. The key is to maintain a coating of wax at all times. You should be able to run your fingers over the surface and tell if it's still protected. Another clue is if water beads up larger than a quarter it's generally time to re-apply.
 
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