[desoto97]

(For the short, but boring version, skip to 'quick overview' below, lol....)

Oh my goodness... Well I hope there are a few of you who enjoy a good novel, since I chose to attack the problems with this car in succession (for the most part) as opposed to posting every individual issue. I've dug through CT and guessed as to the on-going vacuum/turbo problem and the end result to date has been to throw time and parts and time at the problem. Here's what I've done, discovered, and where I'm at. I know I'm far from the only one with these issues; most of us have had at least one, so maybe this will help narrow down problems for others. Think of it as an expensive timeline of 'What the H*ll Could it Be'??!?

Background: Bought the car used, bone stock, no major issues (only small ones unrelated to this post). Currently 112k miles on the car. Added AEM intake.

1.) Sooo, 25k miles or so into owning the car I started having 'bucking' issues, where it feels like the boost would bounce around and not provide consistent boost. CT search suggested checking the little check valve on the valve cover. Sure enough, plug the hole, car goes crazy.
- Result: Purchased and installed and it ran fine again.

2.) Well now I got a little turbo beasty in the making, right?!?! After much research I went the high $$$ route in terms of tuning and got a BNR tuner and 3 tunes. Installed the 1st (hi perf tune 91) and tried it out. Wow what a difference. Switched to the 2nd tune (eco) and the car wouldn't start, only crank. OK, back to the 1st. Never tried the 3rd (hi perf 87) and just went about the next few days having fun with the car. After I get back into the tune stuff I'll be glad to write more about my experience with BNR.
- Result: My boring-a$$ fuel-sipping daily driver is pretty darn fun now. My brother wants to buy it off me!

3.) A week after the tune the car flipped out. Wouldn't start, at least not without holding down the key and gas and keeping it to the floor to get some amount of boost. Anything passed 1/4 pedal it'd go bat crap crazy (mechanic jargon, sorry for the specialist speak). Happened at several inopportune times and got stranded. So she was parked for a month while I diligently searched through CT and online. My conclusion is it must be the intake manifold PCV, so I patiently awaited my PCV fix V2 [from XtremeRevolution] that I found here on CT.
- Result: Bummed and gave up on the car for awhile. Tracing down these weird random symptoms has taken weeks, and it sucks right?!?!

4.) Let's remove an Intake! Using [XtremeRevolution] instructions on CT, I took my sweet time and went step by step removing sensors, fuel rail, etc etc until I could get to the manifold. Ooops! Broke off the nipple from the bypass sensor (see one of my previous posts), but got the darn thing off after an hour. Rain and my lack of enthusiasm delays the V2 fix. I finally get around to it, take my time on the install, which went fairly cleanly. Only real 'issue' I had was it seemed I couldn't get the regulator elbow very tight. I ground down the nut on several sides to slowly get it tighter, but whatever, it went in, I didn't feel 'great' about that, but it seemed to seal ok. Glued the broken nipple back on and threw it all back together. Test drove it a couple miles down the street and the CEL lit and got all kinds of errors, yay. Limped it back home and bought a brand new intake manifold.
- Result: At this point I felt like there were a LOT of variables being introduced here: Intake that might still be leaking, BNR custom tune still on the car, bypass nipple may not have sealed properly, that stupid thin hard line to the bypass sensor seemed to not want to seat in super tight. Sometimes the bypass would 'phss phss phss' instead of holding boost. Other times I'd seat it, it'd hold boost, then stammer at mid-hard acceleration.

5.) New GM intake manifold installed. This time 15 minutes for removal, 10 minutes to swap TB, sensors, and clamp holders, and 15 minutes to install. At least I'm a pro at this now and can do it from memory!!!
- Result: Woot! The car ran like it did right after the BNR tune. After 3 miles of testing I came home and told the wife it's finally fixed and she gets her husband back. (Well, except for the '88 Stang project, but that's a different story....)

6.) Drove it to work the next day, started bucking and stammering up a modest hill at 1/2 throttle. By the time I got home it was back to not starting (without holding down the gas and keeping on it to build boost again) and forget rolling the throttle into mid range or higher rpm's. Essentially the car exhibits the same issues as when I started troubleshooting this mess.
- Result: WTF is the problem!?! I'm out of ideas at this point!!!

7.) Back to basics.... As of today, I've decided to do the following: a.) Drive to work in an iffy car because I have to. Still no CEL after the manifold replacement, but no question something is wrong. b.) checked the bypass valve hard vacuum line, all seems good. c.) post here to see if the fine folks on CT have any ideas. d.) When I get home I'll load my stock tune and start from there. The fewer variables the better. I'll also check for passive CEL codes since I'll have 100 miles on it by then.

Phew, So there you have it folks... A few hundred dollars, hours of research, and more hours under the hood and the car seems to be no different than when I started, lol.

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!!! (Aside from sell her, she's obviously possessed.)

:: Quick Overview ::
- 2012 Cruze, AEM intake, BNR tune, otherwise stock 112k miles
- New intake and camshaft cover to address vacuum issues. No go, see below
- Won't start without holding down key and accelerator and keeping on it until vacuum builds.
- Occasionally dies at idle/stand still
- Once running, it's *fine* unless I give it a fair amount of gas, at least enough to get the turbo passed a few pounds, then it jerks and bucks horribly.
- Accelerating from idle takes a super long time to build up boost or it'll fall on it's face

Good times!
-DD

 

[panos7]

Hi, from Germany!!
It's really a pity you can't have fun with the car, but it seems something is not working correctly....
I'd first of all try and log the car to analyze the data. Watch out for misfires, vacuum leaks (take a look at LTFT and STFT they should add up to no more than +10 or -10)
Do you have a P1101 error?
Did you check the corrugated hose from manifold to turbo? It might be torn or the valve on the turbo screwed!
It might also have to do with AEM intake, which might screw your MAF readings
Have a look at this data and give us some feedback!
Hope to have helped a little!

 

[desoto97]

@panos7, thanks for the response. for logging, can I assume I can use the BNR tuner with efilive and translate the logs? I've not created a log on this particular car before, or read data from it. I did have a P1101 at one point, as well as a few others, but I've made so many 'fixes', that I wipe the codes each time to eliminate variables.
After I load in the BNR stock tune I'll double check the manifold hose on both ends.
I'll check back in with an update as soon as I get it handled, thank you!
-DD

 

[panos7]

I dont have a BNR tuner, but I log on the fly with torque pro on my android phone!!
These cars are really sensitive to vacuum leaks and boost leaks. I've been fighting with a vacuum leak for over a year now....have found several spots but have never really cured it fully. At least I now have my fuel trims in line while on boost....they used to be all over the place and give me a P1101 while driving on open road and pushing the car. The CEL forced the car to cut down on boost and fall on its face. I no longer get the code but I still have a vacuum leak, because my STFT shoots up to 50 when letting of the gas pedal and then returns to normal...!!
I recently bought a smoke tester from USA but I didnt have the time to use it.
Keep us posted!!!

 

[desoto97]

re: the on-going vacuum leaks: Well THAT'S not promising! Heh. I hate to throw more $$$ at this, but should I just go with: https://www.gmpartscenter.net/oem-p...WEnmDfvZixDD0tY9_qswE60L720AeUPUaAg8aEALw_wcB, and call it a day?

As far as checking STFT/LTFT, no idea on that one... Just googled it, lol. Guess it's more to look into/learn. I've got torque pro as well so yeah, I can use that, thanks for the idea!

 

[carbon02]

Pedal to the floor to start it seems like it maybe running rich. If this is like most GM historical products foot to the floor to start cuts fuel injectors to clear a flooded condition.

Your right about having a bunch of variables, at this time I'd go back to stock as much as you can. Stock intake and tune. I'm guessing you have a leak somewhere, the problem is where. You could try pressurizing the intake with air at the turbo and looking for leaks with a spray bottle of soap. A smoke machine would be great, but they are expensive last I looked for a DIY project.

Check your injectors, everything seated properly, with no signs of O-ring issues going back into the intake that would be pouring fuel at the problem? Otherwise it could be unmetered air, and the car is running lean, and the car's computer is throwing fuel at it trying to make the mixture richer.

 

[panos7]

Also try looking at the relative throttle position on torque pro....if the car is in operating temps on idle it should read 8-12% otherwise there is a leak....somewhere....mine shows 5-6 on idle and that is an indication of a leak...!!

About the smoke tester I bought one from America for 90 dollars!! I just havent had the time to use it

 

[Blasirl]

Definitely go to the stock tune before continuing.

[h=1]Cruze/Sonic 1.4L Turbo LUV/LUJ Boost Leak Testing Kits[/h]

 

[desoto97]

Quick update:
CEL codes now popping after about 30 miles of driving since last CEL reset. Here's the breakdown:
P1101, B2AA, P0171, P0496

I data logged my morning commute from this morning (about 1 hour), but unfortunately, I couldn't figure out how to download, review, or otherwise save the log. I *thought* I was using Torque Pro, but the App simply says 'Torque', so I'm not sure if that's the same program; I paid for this one, I do remember that much. I went to 'graphing' > settings > checked off just about everything to log ("graph"), and hit the 'play' button. Just couldn't, as mentioned, figure out how to download or review the graphing. @panos7, any chance you can direct me to how I should log and read?

Meanwhile, my next steps will be:
1.) Go back to stock tune. (Didn't do that just yet, oops)
2.) Purchase PCV tube & bypass tube; replace and make sure that's another variable gone
3.) Figure out how to data log
@Blasirl, I'd thrown down on that kit except I don't currently have an air compressor at the moment, heh. :/ Might need to add that to my list.

Thanks to everyone for helping out here!
-DD

 

[panos7]

@desoto97 Here is a quick walkthrough on logging wih torque!!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=72gwofW_Qi4

Try it!

Now about the codes!!!
P0496 points to a defective evap vanister....the one that is on top of the intake manifold...and look like a small barrel!

P1101 could be any defect on the air intake after the air filter until the intake manifold....leaks, defective sensors etc....

p0171 Pcv valve leak??

B2aa...must be related with the evap canister...!!!

Keep us posted

 

[desoto97]

@panos7,

Sweet! Solid info, I'll walkthrough the logging and get on that asap, thanks!!

I wish I knew more than I do about these cars so I can share some knowledge back... If you need any help on Buell XB motorcycles or foxbody Mustangs, I'm your guy! Lol.

Thanks again!
-DD

 

[Blasirl]

B2AAA:

from a Sprinter Forum:

To other users of the ScanGuage II OBD reader, here is a helpful hint if you get an odd error code that does not appear in the lists of standard P codes available on line or supplied with your SCII. This is from the tech support dept at ScanGuage:


"A module in your vehicle is reporting a code that doesn't make any sense (B2AAA) because it is overwriting the true code and that B2AAA codes is the first code the SG2 is picking up. You can send a command to the ScanGaugeII in order to read the raw data. To do this:
From the home screen select MORE> MORE> CMNDS > choose a memory slot> EDIT> enter the numbers 03> SEND.


This is a work around for now and the engineers plan on doing another software revision that would allow the ScanGaugeII to ignore the meaningless code.


So if you get a code on your reader that does not show up in the lists, you may be able to try this procedure to see what the root of the problem is.

or

code B2AAA can also be displayed when the original fault data gets overwritten (for reasons that are not always clear)
code B2AAA can be displayed when some cheap, generic code readers cannot access the CAN (Controller Area Network) bus system on the affected application, even though its programmed communication protocol is largely or wholly compatible with that on the affected application
code B2AAA can sometimes be displayed even on high-end dealer-grade diagnostic equipment that does not recognize all (or any) of the PID’s ( Fault Parameter Identifiers) that relate to the root cause(s) of the problem on the affected application. This often happens when some imported European and/or Asian- produced applications are tested or diagnosed with equipment that is programmed for use on vehicles that are produced for, and sold in, the North American market.
While the obvious solution to communication incompatibility problems is to obtain diagnostic equipment that is fully compatible with the affected application in order to be able to extract the “real” trouble code(s), the fact that there are nine (including four CAN protocol variants) in common use today greatly complicates the issue of OBD II programming compatibility. This is especially so for non-professional mechanics, but once the basics of OBD II communication protocols are understood the issue becomes less confusing, if not entirely clear, so let us explore the problem by asking-

P1101 : Actual measured airflow from MAF, MAP, EGR, and TP is not within range of the calculated airflow

P0496:

Faulty purge or vent solenod/valve
Plugged EVAP canister
Failed EVAP / fuel pressure sensor
Poor electrical connection
Faulty canister purge valve
Blocked vapor canister
Faulty vent solenoid

Read more at: https://www.obd-codes.com/p0496
Copyright OBD-Codes.com


P0171:

The MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor is dirty or faulty Note: The use of "oiled" air filters may cause the MAF to become dirty if the filter is over-oiled.
There is also an issue with some vehicles where the MAF sensors leak the silicone potting material used to protect the circuitry.
There could be a vacuum leak downstream of the MAF sensor
Possible cracked vacuum or PCV line/connection
Faulty or stuck open PCV valve
Failed or faulty oxygen sensor (bank 1, sensor 1)
Sticking/plugged or failed fuel injector
Low fuel pressure (possible plugged/dirty fuel filter!)
Exhaust leak between engine and first oxygen sensor

Read more at: https://www.obd-codes.com/p0171
Copyright OBD-Codes.com

 

[desoto97]

Update:
Got the new PCV +bypass valve hoses yesterday, installed last night, disconnected and re-connected evap canister sensor. Car started right up this time, no fuel smell or need to hold down the throttle. Took it for a drive, smooth at first, then same stammering but seemed a bit 'lighter', as in, less severe engine jerking as the turbo came on. Came back home after 2 miles, overall the car felt like others I've driven where the car is either working in a light limp mode, and/or trying to re-learn the new sensor readings, so I cleared all CELs and took it back out. Note: I'd blame lack of time but it was sheer laziness that I STILL haven't gone back to stock tune. This is a lingering variable I don't like, so I'll get to that tonight.

Second drive was much better, still a couple of stammers, but started and turned off just fine as well. (It's been staying on when I cut the key, 'dieseling' to a clunky loud death). At that point I had to watch my daughter so I let my brother and wife go hot rod the car for about 15 minutes. He came back and said zero issues. Hmm, ok.

Last drive was this morning: Started it up, and while I didn't smell gas or need to hammer the throttle, the computer was playing rpm games trying to find the right idle. Again, struck me as the computer needing to relearn, but I'm not sure if that's how these ecu's work. And I'm probably wrong because... 30 miles of driving; first 10+ miles was stop and go traffic, then a long steep grade up my toll road at 80mph, 6th gear, foot in the throttle enough to keep consistent boost without flooring it and she was smooth as silk. Several miles of this, so once it went flat road again and opened up, I started shifting gears and putting some load on it. Stammering again. Seems I can't get it to do it in 3rd at any rpm, but above 3500 in 1st, 2nd, or 4th, it'll buck and jerk until I let off of it. Slow acceleration all the way to 6k will yield more mild symptoms.
- Result: The $40 bucks for the hoses was worth it imo. The issue (still thinking vacuum) is still there, but it's much lighter now. After throwing all the parts I can at this thing, I might break down and get an air compressor just so I can properly test all lines as @Blasirl indicated with @XtremeRevolution's post. :/ Eh, at least I don't feel like I'm going to blow the darn thing up driving mildly to and from work until this is figured out.

Hope all this documenting is helping anyone with similar issues, though I know I'm all over the place with the repairs, lol.
-D

 

[eddiefromcali]

valve cover, coil pack or spark plugs....maybe even the tune is the issue. Without you going back to oem and providing fuel trim data, were all just guessing here.

 

[desoto97]

Thanks for the code info @Blasirl

Without you going back to oem and providing fuel trim data, were all just guessing here.

@eddiefromcali: True enough, that's the next step.

 

[TBossK]

I had several visits to the dealer after purchase because the timing chain tensioner(?) would become loose as the bolts backed of. Caused symptoms as you describe. Eventually asked keep them to put locktite on the bolts on the third visit, no issues since. Another possibility.

Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk

 

[eddiefromcali]

Thanks for the code info @Blasirl

@eddiefromcali: True enough, that's the next step.

btw, I'm in Beaumont if you need any help/parts

 

[desoto97]

Thanks @TBossK & @eddiefromcali -!!

Update (Quick): Shot out to Autozone during lunch the other day and picked up a duralast evap/purge solenoid. 3 minute install and on the road. Drove 5 miles and reset the CEL. Drove 100 miles total so far. 95% better, essentially runs like new *except*: mid-range rpm when the turbo starts spooling up I got the bucking/jerking action, though nowhere near where it used to be. Going WOT or letting off cures that. In the meantime I'll drive her nice (even though the BNR tune makes that a bit difficult) and go through some other possibilities. Off the bat it seems like I might still have a slight vacuum leak somewhere, but @113k miles, there's plenty to look over.
Result: To date I've replaced the intake manifold, camshaft cover, PCV valve pipe & bypass hose, evap/purge solenoid. Car feels reliable and durable except at certain RPM/load ranges. So as mentioned, it feels at about 95%.
@TBossK, I'll definitely check the tensioner next, since that's an easy one, then I'll get to a proper data log, which frankly I should have done out of the gate to avoid throwing parts at the car. Hopefully that's a lesson others' can learn from me, lol.

On the flip side to that, these parts all work together, and as mentioned on this forum, one bad part can damage another, so I *probably* would have had to replace all of these at this mileage anyway, so I don't feel too terrible about it, other than spending about 10% of what I bought the whole car for, oops!

Thanks again everyone for the support!
-DD

 

[eddiefromcali]

Spark plug gap would be my guess for that sputtering

 

[jblackburn]

Spark plug gap would be my guess for that sputtering

Agreed. Check out the coil pack springs, too...make sure they are straight & free of corrosion.