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Any thoughts on mounting the Mini DSP out back in the trunk near the amps for easier access when tuning? I usually mount my amps & power junction block on a nice piece of finished oak board and secure it to the trunk floor. Locating the Mini Dsp out back would also change the cable length requirements. Not sure if one way would be better than the other. Just looking for ideas as I may try something different. Would rather not have to pull the interior to access the MiniDSP if possible. Possibly mount everything to the underside of the rear shelf to retain trunk space. Any good source for pictures of installs in the Cruze? I haven't really looked at my cruze much since I bought it. Been very busy. Had it for about month now & barely put 400 miles on it so far. It's too nice to be driving it around here right now with the snow & salt. Milking the Lumina for all it's worth right now with the crappy snowy weather. Lumina registration & inspection expires the end of this month & the engine will be coming apart. The Cruze will start to see regular duty soon.

Rich.
 

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Also, any brands of RCA cables to avoid? I see many different brands. I will stay with OFC wire for sure. I see Amazon sells a lot. There is a very inexpensive brand ,"Kabeldirect", that looks good on paper & also in the pictures. Any info on those? Just trying to avoid buying a headache down the road.

Rich.
 

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Discussion Starter · #423 ·
Any thoughts on mounting the Mini DSP out back in the trunk near the amps for easier access when tuning? I usually mount my amps & power junction block on a nice piece of finished oak board and secure it to the trunk floor. Locating the Mini Dsp out back would also change the cable length requirements. Not sure if one way would be better than the other. Just looking for ideas as I may try something different. Would rather not have to pull the interior to access the MiniDSP if possible. Possibly mount everything to the underside of the rear shelf to retain trunk space. Any good source for pictures of installs in the Cruze? I haven't really looked at my cruze much since I bought it. Been very busy. Had it for about month now & barely put 400 miles on it so far. It's too nice to be driving it around here right now with the snow & salt. Milking the Lumina for all it's worth right now with the crappy snowy weather. Lumina registration & inspection expires the end of this month & the engine will be coming apart. The Cruze will start to see regular duty soon.

Rich.
The nice thing about the miniDSP is that you can hook up a laptop and adjust any tuning parameters you want to on the fly. Put it near the trunk, and you have to run a longer USB cable out to the front when you need to make adjustments. It ultimately doesn't matter where you put it, to be honest. I mounted it low in the dash and ran the USB cable around the back and rolled it up into the map holder.

I didn't take many pictures during the actual install.

Also, any brands of RCA cables to avoid? I see many different brands. I will stay with OFC wire for sure. I see Amazon sells a lot. There is a very inexpensive brand ,"Kabeldirect", that looks good on paper & also in the pictures. Any info on those? Just trying to avoid buying a headache down the road.

Rich.
No clue on brands or brands to avoid. Generally speaking, you get what you pay for. Go with twisted pair, shielded cable. I just used some cheap cables I had lying around from some home theater installs since I was on a tight budget on the initial install. I have some good replacement cables needing to go in, but haven't had the time to install them.
 

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XR

Been gathering items. Still a long way to go.
I received my minidsp & isolator from Madisound. It comes with a coupon code for the plug in. It will be a long while before my install. Do you know if there is an expiration on that code? Would it be beneficial to download it to my current windows Vista 32 bit computer now, before the install takes place, & use it later, if that's at all possible ,or should I just wait? I also just received an android smartphone for Christmas. Would that give me options for this application? I also tried downloading, to windows vista, your xml files for the speakers. This does nothing but show a massive amount of text lines. It's crazy. Is this because I have not downloaded the plug in program yet? Sorry for all the questions. Not computer savvy at all.

R-
 

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Discussion Starter · #425 ·
XR

Been gathering items. Still a long way to go.
I received my minidsp & isolator from Madisound. It comes with a coupon code for the plug in. It will be a long while before my install. Do you know if there is an expiration on that code? Would it be beneficial to download it to my current windows Vista 32 bit computer now, before the install takes place, & use it later, if that's at all possible ,or should I just wait? I also just received an android smartphone for Christmas. Would that give me options for this application? I also tried downloading, to windows vista, your xml files for the speakers. This does nothing but show a massive amount of text lines. It's crazy. Is this because I have not downloaded the plug in program yet? Sorry for all the questions. Not computer savvy at all.

R-
You need the plug-in to view my tune files. My recommendation is to download the plug-in, load up the tune file, and record the values. I've noticed a few people had issues directly installing my tune file in the past due to updated versions of the miniDSP.

I would download the tune now, and get familiar with it. Channels are as follows:

4: driver tweeter
3: driver woofer
2: passenger tweeter
1: passenger woofer

You should be able to re-download the plug-in from the miniDSP site with your account once you order the plug-in.

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Successfully loaded the plug in to my PC.
I have no clue what to do next. I can open your xml tune file on my pc by clicking on the link. It only opens in my web browser in a separate tab. There is no option to do anything else with it. I get this message when opening the file.
"This XML file does not appear to have any style information associated with it. The document tree is shown below."
The document tree is very extensive. What is the process to load this into the plug in?
I think I may have figured it out.
Please correct me if any of this is wrong.
On the system settings tab in the plug in program, there is a load button. I clicked on the load button and opened the file from the downloads folder where the file was automatically saved to my pc. Took a while to find it, but it appears the file was successfully loaded into the program.

Feel like I'm in way over my head with this. Been searching for a tutorial on this plug in software as I have no idea where to even begin. Should be a fun process ounce I get the basics down.

Happy New Year!
:partytime:
 

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2014 LT program car, Pull Me Over Red, 1.4T Auto
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Pick from one combo. The tune files are published for both, for the Cruze with the stock head unit.

Either the Silver Flute/Vifa combo or for a little bit more, the Dayton/Seas combo. Both will destroy anything with a car audio label at 3x their price.

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XR,

I just finished reading the entire 43 pages (and am in the process of re-reading them) and have a simple question. When you say "stock head unit" are you referring to any Cruze stock HU or the one in your car?

I have an LT without the display/Nav stuff but was considering looking for a junk-yard find to upgrade as I need at least a display for my front and rear cameras and navigation would be nice.

I guess I have one more question. Do you (or anyone else who wishes to chime in) have a recommendation for an upgraded HU that will fit in with the rest of your suggestions throughout this thread?

Thanks for makin' my head spin:dizzy:

Robert
 

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Discussion Starter · #429 ·
XR,

I just finished reading the entire 43 pages (and am in the process of re-reading them) and have a simple question. When you say "stock head unit" are you referring to any Cruze stock HU or the one in your car?

I have an LT without the display/Nav stuff but was considering looking for a junk-yard find to upgrade as I need at least a display for my front and rear cameras and navigation would be nice.

I guess I have one more question. Do you (or anyone else who wishes to chime in) have a recommendation for an upgraded HU that will fit in with the rest of your suggestions throughout this thread?

Thanks for makin' my head spin:dizzy:

Robert
Stock head unit simply refers to the head unit installed by GM. Stock = OEM.

Any head unit will fit, provided you buy the correct factory integration modules and dash trim. Double-din head units look best.
 

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Discussion Starter · #430 ·
Successfully loaded the plug in to my PC.
I have no clue what to do next. I can open your xml tune file on my pc by clicking on the link. It only opens in my web browser in a separate tab. There is no option to do anything else with it. I get this message when opening the file.
"This XML file does not appear to have any style information associated with it. The document tree is shown below."
The document tree is very extensive. What is the process to load this into the plug in?
I think I may have figured it out.
Please correct me if any of this is wrong.
On the system settings tab in the plug in program, there is a load button. I clicked on the load button and opened the file from the downloads folder where the file was automatically saved to my pc. Took a while to find it, but it appears the file was successfully loaded into the program.

Feel like I'm in way over my head with this. Been searching for a tutorial on this plug in software as I have no idea where to even begin. Should be a fun process ounce I get the basics down.

Happy New Year!
:partytime:
Yep, the load button is what you should use. Once you do that, it loads up my settings, and you can see all of the values I've set. You should see adjustments for equalizer, crossover, and time alignment. If you do, you're on the right track.
 

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Firstly I want to say thank you very much to XtremeRevolution! I learned alot by reading all your post from thread v1.


So I decied to removed the passive crosover (at 5khz) in my set Kenwood KFC-P709PS 6-1/2" and wired in a 4 channel amp with a minidsp.


The tweeters response are quite ok but the woofer's response fluctuate so much and lost after 1.5Khz.


Its might be due to my bad installation so I'm looking for some advice/guide to verify it. Maybe I'm missing something.


Minidsp to cross at: 60hz-5khz for woofer & 3khz for tweeter.


Mic: UMIK-1 Amp Alpine MRP-F300: channel 1&2 for tweeters, 3&4 for woofer.


Inputs for minidsp come from pac-aoem-maz2 I adjusted pac-aoem-maz2 to out at ~2V (measured by DMM at 50hz) and set minidsp at 2V RMS input.
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Discussion Starter · #432 ·
Firstly I want to say thank you very much to XtremeRevolution! I learned alot by reading all your post from thread v1.


So I decied to removed the passive crosover (at 5khz) in my set Kenwood KFC-P709PS 6-1/2" and wired in a 4 channel amp with a minidsp.


The tweeters response are quite ok but the woofer's response fluctuate so much and lost after 1.5Khz.


Its might be due to my bad installation so I'm looking for some advice/guide to verify it. Maybe I'm missing something.


Minidsp to cross at: 60hz-5khz for woofer & 3khz for tweeter.


Mic: UMIK-1 Amp Alpine MRP-F300: channel 1&2 for tweeters, 3&4 for woofer.


Inputs for minidsp come from pac-aoem-maz2 I adjusted pac-aoem-maz2 to out at ~2V (measured by DMM at 50hz) and set minidsp at 2V RMS input.
View attachment 215714
Are you taking that measurement as a summed response of both left and right channels?

Have you configured time alignment yet?

Have you taken a 3rd order harmonic distortion measurement for that tweeter to determine an optimal crossover point?

By the way, that hump at 4400hz must be killing you. That would hurt my ears.
 

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Its for left channel only. I configured time alignment already. My car is different: 2 tweeters in the dash.
Left & Right tweeter 1.10399 ms & 0 ms
Left & Right woofer 1.10399 ms 0.12498

Anyway, I took several measurement and I tried to eq but not sure if I'm on the right way.

Do you still keep the frequency response? Mine seems having too much fluctuations.

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Are you taking that measurement as a summed response of both left and right channels?

Have you configured time alignment yet?

Have you taken a 3rd order harmonic distortion measurement for that tweeter to determine an optimal crossover point?

By the way, that hump at 4400hz must be killing you. That would hurt my ears.
 

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Discussion Starter · #435 ·
Can I replace Vifa tweeter by Hi Vi K1 as its on sale at around 12$/pair

View attachment 217930
You can replace it with whatever you want, but you're doing all the tuning for it yourself and figuring out the crossover point on your own. The same tuning won't apply anymore.
 

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Discussion Starter · #436 ·
Its for left channel only. I configured time alignment already. My car is different: 2 tweeters in the dash.
Left & Right tweeter 1.10399 ms & 0 ms
Left & Right woofer 1.10399 ms 0.12498

Anyway, I took several measurement and I tried to eq but not sure if I'm on the right way.

Do you still keep the frequency response? Mine seems having too much fluctuations.

View attachment 215818 View attachment 215826 View attachment 215834 View attachment 215842 View attachment 215850 View attachment 215858 View attachment 215866
You've got some nasty 3rd order harmonic distortion at 2500hz on the left tweeter with a crossover of 2250. The chart crossed at 2500 looks good. I wouldn't cross any higher.

Send me a frequency response of just the woofer on the left. It looks to me like you're crossing it too low.

Note, when I took the measurements for the left or right, I held the microphone up right at my ear, as that's where I'd be listening.

You've got a pretty big boost in the 3k-4.5k range, which I think is caused by boundary loading in the dash. I'd use a shelf function in miniDSP to tone that down a bit, then move the woofer crossover a little closer to the tweeter.
 

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The mic was next headrest which is exactly same as your instruction.

The woofer's response looks so bad and completely downs after 1k Hz although the xover was 60Hz - 5k Hz. It fluctuates so much in between which I believe could be corrected after well deadening the doors.

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Discussion Starter · #438 ·
See if you can apply a shelf filter to raise the woofer above that range. That may be due mostly to the fact that they're off-axis. How does the right woofer measure?

The fluctuations are due in part to cancelation. It's not exactly an ideal acoustic environment. You will always have a dip at around 150 and 500 depending on your internal dimensions. Nothing you can do about it.

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2

I did some test as your recommendation:
1. Right (Woofer+Tweeter) xover (60-3k, 2.5k-20k) w/o EQ
2. Left (Woofer+Tweeter) xover (60-3k, 2.5k-20k)
3. Distortion Left (Woofer+Tweeter) xover (60-3k, 2.5k-20k) wo EQ
4. Distortion Right (Woofer+Tweeter) xover (60-3k, 2.5k-20k) wo EQ
5. Left Woofer Xover (60-3k) with some EQ using high shelf function


So my questions are:

1. If I upgrade to your recommend sets (vifa + silver flute), will it be better? Didn't see any measurement for comparison.
2. I have some ambient noise at 30- 60Hz +30dB (see pic 1 & 2), will sound deadening fix it?
3. The last picture is what I get when playing around with EQ, is it acceptable?

Thank you very much for your time!
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Discussion Starter · #440 ·
It looks like you still need a shelf function applied to both the tweeter and woofer. Did you apply those yet? Your tweeter is way too hot at 3000-4000hz on the right side.

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