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Looking at different amplifier options, what affect will it have on the front stage if we used a lower wattage rating amp, say 20-30 watts rms for the tweets, and a higher rated amp on the silverflutes? Would this need to be adjusted for in the DSP Tune?
I understand the tweets don't need a lot of power. What is the RMS rating on the silver flutes? All I can find listed is 80 watts but that doesn't specify RMS or MAX.
 

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Discussion Starter #462
No effect at all. I used a 25W per channel coustic power logic amp (made in 1992) for a while on my tweeters and they were fine. No adjustment needed.

RMS on the silver flutes is probably around 50W.

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I'm starting to think that the Factory headunit doesn't give out enough Volt to even consider adding an Aftermarket amp or Speakers, I've gone that route and my Sound quality at moderate to high volumes has dropped significantly. All I'm hearing is High pitched sounds from tweeter and somewhat low quality thin sounding Mids from the woofers.

The technician said its mostly my Factory Headunit, which is underpowered for such setup. Adding an amp , speakers and sub has done very little to change the SQ.

I've also created a new thread and would like someone to help me here: http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/36-gen1-audio-electronics/217153-factory-headunit-sound-quality-dropped-aftermarket-amp-speakers-sub.html
 

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For those of you that used the mini DC isolator, how did you physically mount it? Make a box or housing for it or just wrap in something like electrical tape? I don't see a housing available for purchase for it.
 

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I purchased something similar.

Here are 2 pictures of it mounted in the box and the box mounted to the dash's metal frame behind the glove box. The lid is not installed in these pictures. It has a snap on lid/cover.

IMG_6946.JPG IMG_6981.JPG
 

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I began to think the same thing about the stock head unit. I installed everything and triple checked all my wiring. Sounded like crap. Messed with the amp gains and swapping cables. Nothing improved the sound. Turning the volume up just sounded horrible. I mean really bad. What I came to find out was that I made a huge error. I thought I installed the tune file into the DSP when in actuality I didn't. I got the message from the software stating the file loaded successfully. When I got this message I assumed it was installed on the minidsp. I read through the manual a little more carefully and found my error. Consequently I damaged a Tweeter in the process. Once sorted out it sounds pretty good. Plenty of power and clarity. This may have been your issue as well???? I find the DSP stuff to be very confusing.

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I'm up to 104 hours of install time, got my DSP issues sorted out, Sub installed, gains all adjusted, interior mostly back together and I finally got to really listen to it. Well, all I can say is, Amazing. Yes, it's that good. Thank you very much MR. Xtreme. All that is left is to finish up all the sound deadening and mount the amp shelf under the rear deck. I'm stoked. I can safely drive it now that most of it is back together. Probably another 50 hours or so should do it. This has been a huge job and the end result is well worth it. :th_dblthumb2:

Rich.
 

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What a great thread even tho its quite old now but stills seems relevant to Gen 1 cars. I actually have a 2018 Holden Astra Sedan down in Melbourne Australia but its a rebadged Chevy Cruze.....its the 6 speaker setup...non-amplified so have the dash, front, and rear doors.

Is there anything setup like this for Gen 2 cars or are they close enough to each other that this will work fine for a Gen 2 car?

Shipping things to Australia is another matter but one problem at a time :)

Thanks!
 

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If anyone is looking to do this upgrade to their Cruze I have a full set-up available. I'm selling my car and just pulled it all out yesterday.
 

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what all do you have and how much?
I have the dayton/seas setup with everything needed to make them work.
I have a for sale thread here:
 

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Looking for some insight and understanding of the shelf filter. Hopefully Andrea will chime in. I've had my viffa /silverflute system installed for just over a year now. One thing that's really bugging me as of late is the overpowering of most vocals and guitars at louder volumes. At louder volumes they can be very fatiguing and sometimes they just downright hurt. When I say louder volumes I'm talking levels just under half volume, such as #21 & 22. This is mostly noticeable on CD's and not so much radio stations. I do notice that all radio stations sound pretty boomy ( bass heavy) compared to CD's. I've verified the tone controls are all set to flat. Even tried reducing the mid range on the head unit and found it doesn't help. Noticed the radio and cd sources have independent tone controls and made sure all were set to flat. I sometimes wonder if the factory head unit is altering frequencies as the volume is increased. In trying to keep this from being too long winded on my part I'll keep this specifically to the shelf filter. I started re reading the SQ version 2 thread and noticed the mention of the shelf filter as a must to tone down the offensiveness of the said frequencies. I copied and pasted the info below. So looking at the tune file there is a low shelf filter applied to both tweeters. The right is set at 4500hz with a gain of -2db and a Q of 2. The left tweeter is set to 3500hz with a gain of -3.2db and a Q of 2 also.
Trying to understand all this processing stuff generates many questions.
Any help with this would be greatly appreciated.

Here is the copied and pasted info from back in 2014:
"Blue Angel said:
Is this what's responsible for the horrible screeching of the stock system? I wasn't sure if it might be a breakup mode of the door woofers, but this would make sense. Some songs that have prominent notes in just the right places are pretty much unlistenable at high volume.
Yep.

In speaker design, we call it baffle diffraction. With software, I can simulate the frequency response of a linear driver on a rectangular plane based on the driver's location on that plane. Any frequency with a wavelength larger than the dimension of that baffle will begin to drop in output. In open space, the end result will be a -6db drop in output in the lower frequencies. The only way to maintain a completely flat frequency response with a perfect driver is to create an infinite baffle. Any frequencies with a wavelength larger than the baffle begin to wrap around the speaker and do not get reflected toward you, but toward other parts of the room. Conversely, when a driver is mounted inside a horn, all frequencies larger than the width of the horn walls are amplified.

That being said, the situation changes a bit once you start horn loading drivers. Consider what frequencies reflect off of surfaces surrounding their pillar mounts based on the wavelength of those frequencies.

3000hz for example has a wavelength of 4.5". Since the wavelength originates from the center of the driver, 1/2 of that becomes 2.25", which is awfully close to the distance from the center of the tweeter and the dash. The windshield is even closer, where we find a 4000hz wavelength of 3.4". You will find the most offensive frequencies in this car to be 2500-4000hz, all of which can be traced back with a ruler to horn loaded corners surrounding the tweeters. Since those frequencies are amplified due to environmental anomalies, they need to be tuned down by an order of 3-5db.

If you remember listening to my car, there was nearly a complete lack of listening fatigue at loud volumes with any music. Nothing causes ear-piercing discomfort because all of these anomalies are accounted for in my tune and the tunes published in the first page.

Back on topic, do these notes happen to be certain electric guitars, harmonicas, and female voices? If so, that's precisely the range we're referring to. It certainly is of no help that the tweeter has a very basic 1st order crossover slope at 6db/octave. An additional inductor would do a world of good, but would also drastically increase the cost of the system from a production perspective. Copper isn't cheap. "
 

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I sometimes wonder if the factory head unit is altering frequencies as the volume is increased.
I'd expect it to. Do a search on "Fletcher–Munson curve".

Something you might try is turning down your amp so you have to turn up the head unit. That will make the head unit use a different curve - hopefully something more appropriate for the volume you've got.
 

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Is there an actual way to test the head unit for a frequency curve to see what it's doing at various volume levels? I have heard of bass roll off in factory head units for protection of the speakers at high volumes but have no idea if its a myth or not. I'm using an LC2i for my line out converter and have it set for no bass rolloff. Assuming my cruze does not have bass roll off. If it does it must be very subtle. Would be nice to actually know what's going on with these things. I did reduce the gain on my amp and noticed no change. All that did was require a higher volume number. This is where I feel a small change in the tune file settings might be what is actually needed for my actual Cruze. I may just have to hook up my lap top and start playing around.
 

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I'm sure you can find a MP3 file of "white noise" all frequencies at the same level. However, you'd need something to view the results.
 
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