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Hi all,

I have been lurking this forum for awhile and decided it was time to register. I am currently leasing a 2015 focus AT and with the lease coming to an end I am shopping around and thinking about a cruze as my next vehicle. I drive 70 miles a day, mostly highway so am considering an eco but not set on them. Only real desire is for it to be a 6 MT. So with that, a couple questions:

-I know to avoid 2011's but is there any other model in particular to avoid?
-When I go to test drive are there any CRUZE specific quirks to look out for aside from normal inspection?
-Finally, I am open to any opinions on these two options below... good deals or no?

1) http://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/cto/5881443090.html
2) http://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/cto/5895791107.html

I appreciate any and all help!
 

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Hi all,

I have been lurking this forum for awhile and decided it was time to register. I am currently leasing a 2015 focus AT and with the lease coming to an end I am shopping around and thinking about a cruze as my next vehicle. I drive 70 miles a day, mostly highway so am considering an eco but not set on them. Only real desire is for it to be a 6 MT. So with that, a couple questions:

-I know to avoid 2011's but is there any other model in particular to avoid?
-When I go to test drive are there any CRUZE specific quirks to look out for aside from normal inspection?
-Finally, I am open to any opinions on these two options below... good deals or no?

1) http: //detroit.craigslist.org/okl/cto/5895791107. html
2)http: //detroit.craigslist.org/okl/cto/5881443090. html

I appreciate any and all help!
#1 is a bit pricey per KBB. I would look at different valuation sites like KBB to get a best guess.

https://www.kbb.com/chevrolet/cruze...pe=private-party&persistedcondition=very-good

New Car Prices & Used Car Values - NADAguides

https://www.edmunds.com/appraisal/?...d=ga61372781&gclid=COamvf-ghtECFZU1aQodEgIAaQ

https://www.carmax.com/sell-my-car?...__r_1t2_vi__&gclid=CNPIwYuhhtECFUSewAodEFgM4w

https://www.autotrader.com/trade-in-instant-cash-offer?LNX=SPGOOGSYCSRCH

https://www.carfax.com/value/

https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/instantMarketValue.action
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for pointing that out Blasirl. Forgot to mention that I have ran them both through kbb and edmunds and values are closer to $7500 and $8500 respectively. So obviously I would have to take that into consideration when going to look at them.
 

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The big things I'd look for is maintenance. I assume you're looking at the 1.4T rather than the 1.8NA. The turbo doesn't take kindly to sub-standard maintenance.

I'd think one big thing to look for is signs that the turbo is working. The one factor I can think of is that the when you take off from a standing start, you give it a certain amount of throttle and as the RPM pick up, you'll find the acceleration picking up beyond what you expected. As if it decided to push harder. But don't expect much performance from a rolling start. Especially on a hot day with 87 octane gas.

The other thing is to look for coolant leaks. There are a number of places that can come from. But the usual ones are not too expensive to fix - as long as the car hasn't overheated.
 
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Why should one avoid an 11 ? Just out of curiosity obviously I own one so I'm just curious what to look out for in mine


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Why should one avoid an 11 ? Just out of curiosity obviously I own one so I'm just curious what to look out for in mine
2011 is the first year for the Cruze in North America. It had a "learning curve" that included cracked pistons, the full complement of coolant leaks, etc. I suppose at some point you can say it's well broken in any problems have been dealt with. It becomes more of a question of maintenance.
 

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2011 is the first year for the Cruze in North America. It had a "learning curve" that included cracked pistons, the full complement of coolant leaks, etc. I suppose at some point you can say it's well broken in any problems have been dealt with. It becomes more of a question of maintenance.
So far my only issue has been coolant reservoir tank, and a cracked o ring leading to the replacement of several hoses and the tank, but as my warranty comes to a close (I purchased an aftermarket warranty) I want to be as self conscious as possible, thanks for your input !


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2011 is the first year for the Cruze in North America. It had a "learning curve" that included cracked pistons, the full complement of coolant leaks, etc. I suppose at some point you can say it's well broken in any problems have been dealt with. It becomes more of a question of maintenance.
There were also numerous complaints about auto trans shifting/harshness from the media and 11 owners. I drove one that year, and I'd completely agree. Chevy retuned the whole thing for 2012.

Other Cruze things to look out for:
-Stop completely somewhere and make sure the car sits there and idles smoothly. Sometimes the transmission will feel like it's still lurching forward in gear.
-Feel for a big thump when you remove your foot from the brake and the car starts to move forward. These cars go into neutral at a stop and re-engage when your foot is moved off the brake, but it should happen to the point where it almost goes unnoticed.
-The car should not nosedive under moderate braking. If this happens, the rear drums need to be adjusted if it's a LS/1LT/Eco.
-Coolant level, as mentioned. If it's low in the tank, sniff around the engine bay.
 

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What all was said above and a lot of the used 11s are people who were fed up and ditched them due to dealer not knowing how to fix or search their own systems for the fix.

As for 1.8 and 1.4 do not use the same HP on paper as clean slate for both to behave equally.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for all the great advice so far guys. Going to look at both of the Cruze's I listed tomorrow afternoon.

Anyone have a piggyback off of Chevy guy for checking the condition of the turbo? (would be nice if these had a boost gauge)

Guessing the best way to check for coolant leaks is to start at reservoir and trace through entire system as thoroughly as possible looking for any signs of leaks/moisture?

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Thanks for all the great advice so far guys. Going to look at both of the Cruze's I listed tomorrow afternoon.

Anyone have a piggyback off of Chevy guy for checking the condition of the turbo? (would be nice if these had a boost gauge)

Guessing the best way to check for coolant leaks is to start at reservoir and trace through entire system as thoroughly as possible looking for any signs of leaks/moisture?

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For me and my situations, my only sign of leaks was the level of coolant disappearing rapidly in a month. Where it was leaking, it wasn't fast enough to not burn off from the engine before it could drip anywhere. You would need an inspection mirror to get where it was leaking. I can't get any of the links in the 1st post to copy and paste even with spaces taken out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
For me and my situations, my only sign of leaks was the level of coolant disappearing rapidly in a month. Where it was leaking, it wasn't fast enough to not burn off from the engine before it could drip anywhere. You would need an inspection mirror to get where it was leaking. I can't get any of the links in the 1st post to copy and paste even with spaces taken out.
What ended up being the cause of yours/what repairs did you have to do?

Here's another try at the links:

http://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/cto/5881443090.html

http://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/cto/5895791107.html

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What ended up being the cause of yours/what repairs did you have to do?

Here's another try at the links:

2013 Chevrolet Cruze LT RS (Reduced Price)

2012 Chevy Cruze (ECO)

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I'll edit those into the 1st post then. I'm more leaning to the 1st one than the 2nd due to RS, newer, and the miles. If it were up to simply picking a color, I'd pick blue. I will add to the look out for list with turn radio off, roll front 2 windows down and try to get to 40 and listen for gearing noises similar to "what a Honda sounds like" backing up. At 1st I ignored it when it was feint but eventually it became super loud and audible on the freeway where radio can't drown it out. The issue is the trans is under filled from the factory for the years of both cars listed and the imput shaft fails and makes that noise no mater clutch in or out. 2 Axle recalls should have been done for both cars listed. neither have MyLink so that's 1 less issue to have in that year range.

My list of issues I had on my 13 eco are long to the point I don't remember them all w/o going back though papers. Not all cars are like the one I had but some common issues can still exist like water pump if the original owner just kept topping it off and chalked up as "It's a Chevy" instead of taking it in. Replacement of the water pump was the fix all 3 times.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I'll edit those into the 1st post then. I'm more leaning to the 1st one than the 2nd due to RS, newer, and the miles. If it were up to simply picking a color, I'd pick blue. I will add to the look out for list with turn radio off, roll front 2 windows down and try to get to 40 and listen for gearing noises similar to "what a Honda sounds like" backing up. At 1st I ignored it when it was feint but eventually it became super loud and audible on the freeway where radio can't drown it out. The issue is the trans is under filled from the factory for the years of both cars listed and the imput shaft fails and makes that noise no mater clutch in or out. 2 Axle recalls should have been done for both cars listed. neither have MyLink so that's 1 less issue to have in that year range.

My list of issues I had on my 13 eco are long to the point I don't remember them all w/o going back though papers. Not all cars are like the one I had but some common issues can still exist like water pump if the original owner just kept topping it off and chalked up as "It's a Chevy" instead of taking it in. Replacement of the water pump was the fix all 3 times.
I too am growing somewhat partial to the RS and agree with you on those color opinions but want to keep an open mind still.

Assuming I don't hear any off noises but find out the recalls were not performed, should I be concerned?

Sorry to hear about your eco... stories like that almost drive me away from the Cruze model entirely but then again every line of cars will have their issues



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I too am growing somewhat partial to the RS and agree with you on those color opinions but want to keep an open mind still.

Assuming I don't hear any off noises but find out the recalls were not performed, should I be concerned?

Sorry to hear about your eco... stories like that almost drive me away from the Cruze model entirely but then again every line of cars will have their issues



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Exactly,especially if you come here to an online forum. "Normal people" buy a car and don't come here to go "Oh look at how good this car is, I'm glad I got it". When people end up here it's usually an issue they had or something the dealer left out of explanation like "How do I put gas in this thing?" if you are lucky. There is a reason we try and steer away from the 11's hard and some of the 12's. 13's had some issues but common was MyLink being new. Same happened for Cadillac and their Cue integration in 2013.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
So I was able to do a VIN check on the red RS and here's what came up. With that drive shaft and half shaft replacement, does that cover the possible noise you were referring to Merc? Or are these just signs of more problems to come with this specific car?

Also ran the '12 eco. Less came up on that one, mainly just a coolant related recall fix. Don't have the screenshot on hand unfortunately.

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Half shaft was part of a recall; should be good to go with the new part in it.

However, I would get under the rocker panels on that one if you go to look at it and look for any other signs of damage or rust.
 

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There were also numerous complaints about auto trans shifting/harshness from the media and 11 owners. I drove one that year, and I'd completely agree. Chevy retuned the whole thing for 2012.

Other Cruze things to look out for:
-Stop completely somewhere and make sure the car sits there and idles smoothly. Sometimes the transmission will feel like it's still lurching forward in gear.
-Feel for a big thump when you remove your foot from the brake and the car starts to move forward. These cars go into neutral at a stop and re-engage when your foot is moved off the brake, but it should happen to the point where it almost goes unnoticed.
-The car should not nosedive under moderate braking. If this happens, the rear drums need to be adjusted if it's a LS/1LT/Eco.
-Coolant level, as mentioned. If it's low in the tank, sniff around the engine bay.
All very helpful, thanks, my car idle rough due bad spark plugs but all are good to look out for from here on out!

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