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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
1st, Car overheated close to home. Just 3-4 miles away. Wife's car, she said she got some warnings that made her stop. She watched the temp needle and limped it home, stopping a few times and letting it cool off.

Coolant reservoir was empty. I had replaced fluid a little here and there and thought maybe i just let that problem go too long. filled it and took off driving with torque displayed on my phone. Temp crept up past 240f within 1/2 a mile so I brought it back to my driveway. Had the turned heat on most of the way and had no hot air coming in so I figured it was a bad thermostat. I ordered that up and swapped it out.

I went to start it up and it turned over 2-3 seconds like normal and then suddenly the sound of the motor changed while it was turning. just sounded strange and then wouldn't start. I had a couple strange messages displayed; open and close the window and stabilitrak needs service. Wouldn't start and had no codes.

I've been on borrowed time at 157K miles and hadn't done the timing belt yet. Since it wasn't starting and was gonna sit in the driveway I thought I'd look into what was involved. Popped the cover off and saw that the round thing in the middle (turns out that's the water pump) wasn't turning, I tried to turn it w channel locks and it was frozen. So I figured since it wasn't running i should go ahead and get everything to do the timing belt. I reviewed a bunch of the tips and tutorials here that you guys have posted and got what I needed parts wise. At this point I fully expected to swap out the timing belt and then still need to figure out why it wouldn't start.

I went ahead and got the timing locking tool kit off amazon as it was less than $40 and hoped it would make me feel more confident in getting the timing set correctly. I got everything opened up and I turned the motor to where the mark on the cam pulley was at 12 o:clock. I inserted the spring loaded locking pin and turned it to about 2 o:clock and there was a click when the cam got pinned. I went down to lock the crank and saw that it was about 3 teeth behind. I put on the new belt and replaced everything, put the key in, and she started right up.

My theory is that Between the belt being so old and sloppy and the extra heat from the locked up water pump scuffing along on the back of it, it loosened up enough to slip a couple teeth when I as trying to start it. That was why the sound changed all of a sudden.

I'd say I lucked out on this one. I was nervous turning it by hand because i don't know how much resistance I should feel just from compression, or if the pistons were barely kissing the valves. I guess the timing being off just a little was enough to keep it from starting and not be so far off that it clashed.

Thanks again to all of you that share the info that I rely on so heavily. I love being able to keep my stuff running myself.

I couldn't get the link to work but the title for the locking tool kit is:

"Highking Tool Diesel Timing Locking Kit for GM Vauxhall Opel SAAB Alfa Romeo Engines 1.9/2.0 CDTI"
 

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Glad it worked out. I tried to locate the kit with what you posted so I could put in the link, but that really doesn't point to it..
 

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Discussion Starter #4
@e-iowa-o

When you put the belt on, did you turn the crank to get it back lined up correctly?

Also, is this the key you bought? I got one I haven't done my belt yet.
Yes. That's the one. It gave me $40 worth of peace of mind and was well worth the money. There was a link to a vauxhall video in one of our "change or replace timing belt" discussions here at Cruzetalk. The video shows where to insert that spring loaded pin that secures the cam.

I turned the motor with the belt on by using the nut on the crank. Turned it till the mark on the cam pulley was at 1200.. took out the plug and stuck that keeper in place (dunno why there's two of em) then kept turning the motor to the right till I heard the pin click into place. With the cam in the correct spot I got set to secure the crank. I needed to turn the crank a few more degrees to get the little tit to match up with the hole in the tool that keeps the crank at the right spot. I just moved it those few degrees. I was chicken to either turn it farther unnecessarily or to turn it counter clockwise. I got it in the right spot then removed the belt (removed the idler pulley first) and secured the crank. Then I dealt with swapping out the tensioner and water pump. Then put it all back together. One of the guys here even made a table with the torque values for every part that comes out when doing this job. That was really cool.

The video described loosening up the pulley on the cam and I started to do that but thought better of it. I didn't want to try and pin the pulley down and loosen up that nut. I just figured I'd get the new belt in and see where I was. And that seemed like it was right on the money.

PS In the kit, I think the pin with the knurled handle is to lock the tensioner of the serpentine belt, or might have been to pin the cam pulley. I dunno what that rectangular piece is for either.
 
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