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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Forum members and readers.
I thought I would post this topic to assist with other frustrated owners of a Holden (Australian) Cruze Diesel.

I own a 2010 Cruze 2.0L SOHC Diesel and have been having issues with the vehicle just out of warranty. (6months and 5,000ks outside of warranty) Apart from random stalling while driving, the new issue is now the timing belt tracking or rubbing.
The timing belt was changed just on 91,000km which is 1,000 outside of the service schedule, so not too bad.
The new belt only lasted 15,000km before it started making a loud noise. Upon inspection it was noticed that the belt was tracking and rubbing inwards -towards the engine.
The belt was changed and so was the idler pulley and tensioner pulley. The second round I did exactly the same thing but it continued to track inwards.
Thankfully the engine was stopped in time before any damage could occur (breakage to the belt or full failure etc)
I was on my third timing belt kit thinking that it was some kind of tracking issue with the tensioner pulley.
Upon closer inspection I noticed that the Crankshaft Sprocket had failed as the rear guide had sheered off the back. It wasn't easily noticeable because the rear guide ring was pushed back towards the bearing seal and didn't look like it was suppose to be there to begin with.
I have since removed the main crank pulley and will purchase a new one. Upon closer inspection the rear guide ring is poorly connected to the sprocket. The front guide is machined or molded as part of the sprocket. The back ring looks like an afterthought and looks incredibly weak. Its just a flimsy ring spot welded to the back. Why It couldn't be molded like the front of the sprocket is beyond me!
The vehicle has only done 105,000km or 65,000 miles. Pretty poor I think.

I can't understand why it failed. The first belt was changed by a qualified mechanic (Not through the dealer but just as good) but the tension was just right. I checked when I had to open it up from the first failure. The subsequent tensioners were also correctly set and installed correctly to specification.
I hate to say it, but some of the components GM use (or Daewoo) are really poor quality.

I have done heaps of timing belts on other makes of vehicles including some other GM's but found this vehicle to be unnecessarily complicated.
(example TDC marks on the camshaft are on the opposite side of the timing sprocket. Not anywhere near the other marks. Why? The vacuum pump needs to be removed just to see the marks)

Hopefully this helps others with the same issues.

Thanks



IMG_0123.JPG IMG_0125.JPG
 

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Thanx for this - I just had mine done at 90,00km and I will keep an eye on it.

And I took it to a Holden shop because I wanted to be sure that the job was done well, they tracked down a couple of other problems that had been niggling away, so I was very happy with them. (It was done on Wednesday, so it hasn't really been driven yet! :) )
 

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Did you track down the cause of your random stalling, one of our other users on this forum is experiencing the same issue.
 

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The US Diesel service interval for the timing belt is 97,500 miles, or 156k km. Are the two engines comparable?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Haven't been able to diagnose the stalling yet. I ordered the part and it is being shipped from Melbourne. Should have the car up and running early next week. Once it's running I'll attack the stalling issue and post any outcomes.

156Km for the belt replacement sounds much better. That's probably how it should be. I don't know if they are the same engine. It's a 110kw Single Overhead Cam Engine Code Z20S1. Same as some Holden Captiva and Epica models.
It's a real process with these engines, especially because of the transverse engine layout. Removing the right mounting bracket just to get to the belt. It would be nice if the intervals were longer. Almost a $900 Job with Holden.
 

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The US Diesel service interval for the timing belt is 97,500 miles, or 156k km. Are the two engines comparable?
No, the earlier Korean-built Diesel Cruze uses a different engine - I am going to say LLW, it is more a standard Euro-type diesel, nice simple DPF in the exhaust under the body, fewer clever ideas to go wrong! (I hope!! :) )
 

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Just to throw my 2 cents in the mix. I have 105K miles on my US Cruze diesel and never had any issues with the timing belt.
 
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diesel ,your a brave soul
Maybe so lol. I am going at least to 120K before I even think about changing it. My driving 100K miles on the highway can't be anywhere near the timing belt stress of 10 years and 10K miles per year of short trips and stop and go. It's still the same 100K recommendation.
 

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Maybe so lol. I am going at least to 120K before I even think about changing it. My driving 100K miles on the highway can't be anywhere near the timing belt stress of 10 years and 10K miles per year of short trips and stop and go. It's still the same 100K recommendation.
I agree with you, Diesel, I also put a lot of highway miles on my car, 40,000 miles in about 5 months, and don't plan on changing the belt until well after 100,000 miles.
 

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hi guys.
just changed timing belt and water pump on my chey cruze 2.0 ..engine sounds normal..but while drivi g in 3rd gear its starts missing around 40mph but its works fine as soon as i give more gas...
any help??
 

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hi guys.
just changed timing belt and water pump on my chey cruze 2.0 ..engine sounds normal..but while drivi g in 3rd gear its starts missing around 40mph but its works fine as soon as i give more gas...
any help??
Can you provide more details please? Are you in the US? How many miles? Do you have pictures documenting the process you followed?
 

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Hi Forum members and readers.
I thought I would post this topic to assist with other frustrated owners of a Holden (Australian) Cruze Diesel.

I own a 2010 Cruze 2.0L SOHC Diesel and have been having issues with the vehicle just out of warranty. (6months and 5,000ks outside of warranty) Apart from random stalling while driving, the new issue is now the timing belt tracking or rubbing.
The timing belt was changed just on 91,000km which is 1,000 outside of the service schedule, so not too bad.
The new belt only lasted 15,000km before it started making a loud noise. Upon inspection it was noticed that the belt was tracking and rubbing inwards -towards the engine.
The belt was changed and so was the idler pulley and tensioner pulley. The second round I did exactly the same thing but it continued to track inwards.
Thankfully the engine was stopped in time before any damage could occur (breakage to the belt or full failure etc)
I was on my third timing belt kit thinking that it was some kind of tracking issue with the tensioner pulley.
Upon closer inspection I noticed that the Crankshaft Sprocket had failed as the rear guide had sheered off the back. It wasn't easily noticeable because the rear guide ring was pushed back towards the bearing seal and didn't look like it was suppose to be there to begin with.
I have since removed the main crank pulley and will purchase a new one. Upon closer inspection the rear guide ring is poorly connected to the sprocket. The front guide is machined or molded as part of the sprocket. The back ring looks like an afterthought and looks incredibly weak. Its just a flimsy ring spot welded to the back. Why It couldn't be molded like the front of the sprocket is beyond me!
The vehicle has only done 105,000km or 65,000 miles. Pretty poor I think.

I can't understand why it failed. The first belt was changed by a qualified mechanic (Not through the dealer but just as good) but the tension was just right. I checked when I had to open it up from the first failure. The subsequent tensioners were also correctly set and installed correctly to specification.
I hate to say it, but some of the components GM use (or Daewoo) are really poor quality.

I have done heaps of timing belts on other makes of vehicles including some other GM's but found this vehicle to be unnecessarily complicated.
(example TDC marks on the camshaft are on the opposite side of the timing sprocket. Not anywhere near the other marks. Why? The vacuum pump needs to be removed just to see the marks)

Hopefully this helps others with the same issues.

Thanks



View attachment 136689 View attachment 136697
Hi thanks for the post. I have to pull my crank timing sprocket off and replace as well, how did you pull it off?
 
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