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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I replaced the timing belt and water pump on my 14 Diesel this past weekend. I made a video of the process and I’m in the process of extracting screenshots to try and create a write-up of the steps. I was at 123K miles and the belt was beginning to have some significant cracks between the teeth. There were no special tools needed to lock the cam and just a few basic hand tools were required to gain access to everything. I should have some free time this week to work on a How-To post and hopefully will have something to share after Christmas if anyone is interested.

The most peculiar thing about replacing the belt was that my “Timing Belt” message went out on its own after replacing the belt. The battery was not disconnected nor did I try to reset the message via the turn signal stalk or by pulling fuses. I cannot explain why the message extinguished. If anyone has any insight it would be appreciated. My only guess is that the cam timing would have change slightly as the belt stretched and by replacing the belt, the cam timing returned to its “normal” phasing.
 

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Been wonderin’ where u been lately @BradHerr, worth the wait for sure. Looking forward to your updated tutorial. A lot of Gen 1 CTDs will be needing this service soon.

Any more 1,000 mile tanks lately? :xmas:
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Been wonderin’ where u been lately @BradHerr, worth the wait for sure. Looking forward to your updated tutorial. A lot of Gen 1 CTDs will be needing this service soon.

Any more 1,000 mile tanks lately? :xmas:
I have been traveling for work and the mobile app quit cooperating with my iPhone so I haven’t been able to log in. While on the road I had the Cruze with me but it was only a 7 mile commute to work versus my normal 98 mile trip. The short trips killed my mileage (and brakes!), so no more 1000 mile tanks, I’m still sitting on three.
 

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normally if correlation between cam an crank sensors is more than plus or minus 2 degrees the ecm detects that, an will put up a red flag. I though the message was a mileage interval thing.
how long has the message been there??
 

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Spent a good amount of time researching timing belt change the past few days. Saw a post on a diesel truck site where someone posted the book method for the cruze, was very complicated and seemed to be taking a lot more things apart than necessary to accommodate locks. Only thing useful was torque specs. There was a video on YouTube that showed how to install and tension the belt properly, very helpful. Another video showed timing marks on the belt to help line things up. I was surprised no one made a write up yet. Would be great if you took the time to compile all the steps/tools/parts ! Plenty of missing details like how to replace the water pump / draining coolant etc other helpful tips to make the process easy to follow along.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Spent a good amount of time researching timing belt change the past few days. Saw a post on a diesel truck site where someone posted the book method for the cruze, was very complicated and seemed to be taking a lot more things apart than necessary to accommodate locks. Only thing useful was torque specs. There was a video on YouTube that showed how to install and tension the belt properly, very helpful. Another video showed timing marks on the belt to help line things up. I was surprised no one made a write up yet. Would be great if you took the time to compile all the steps/tools/parts ! Plenty of missing details like how to replace the water pump / draining coolant etc other helpful tips to make the process easy to follow along.
I agree that there isn’t much out there about replacing the belt. There is a tool kit that has all of the fixtures needed to put the engine back in to time. As long as the belt hasn’t broken(which would require the head to be removed to fix the valves and maybe pistons) there is no need to use any special tools to time everything. The tools lock the crankshaft into the correct position as well as the two cams.

The write up is in the works. I feel the video I put on youtube covered the disassembly and installation of the belt and water pump in a fairly detailed manner. I didn’t record any of the reassembly of the motor mount or timing covers, however.

The tool list was surprising small:

Floor Jack and Jack Stand
4-way lug wrench
⅜” Ratchet
12,13,15, and 19 mm ⅜” deep well sockets
T30 and T50 ⅜” drive sockets
⅜” drive 6 mm hex bit
12” ⅜” drive extension (optional)
¼” ratchet
T20 ¼” drive socket
Flat blade screwdriver
13 and 15 mm combination wrenches
Small Wire cutters
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
normally if correlation between cam an crank sensors is more than plus or minus 2 degrees the ecm detects that, an will put up a red flag. I though the message was a mileage interval thing.
how long has the message been there??
That’s what I thought too. No one else has mentioned that it was a “smart” warning that actually meant anything. The consensus was that it was a “dumb/idiot” message that appeared at a set interval. I did not note the exact mileage that the message appeared. I’m not sure anyone else has experienced the self-extinguishing of the message.
 

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That’s what I thought too. No one else has mentioned that it was a “smart” warning that actually meant anything. The consensus was that it was a “dumb/idiot” message that appeared at a set interval. I did not note the exact mileage that the message appeared. I’m not sure anyone else has experienced the self-extinguishing of the message.
when the belt starts to crack beside the cogs your on borrowed time ,good thing you did it when you did!
 

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Hey Brad, thanks for the work. So I just hit the magical 97K miles in mine and am getting ready to buy the standard parts to be replaced during this evolution. Looking for input as to what's recommended. Here's my current list of planned parts:

1) 55562864 Serpentine Tensioner
2) 55578485 Serpentine Belt
3) 55580776 Timing Belt
4) 55488983 Water Pump
5) 55562865 Idler Pulley (Left)
6) 55581830 Idler Pulley (Right)
Total for parts: $220. from GMPartsNow.com

Plus Coolant.
Will have work done at my favorite GM dealer in Phoenix.

Am I missing anything?

Thanks.
 

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ID Parts has a complete kit like you would find for a VW TDI. It's a little speedy, but just about everything behind the cover would be new including the bolts.
Thanks TX CTD. I was checking that out before, but I'm keeping all parts OEM.
 
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I am glad you were successful at replacing your timing belt. Makes sure to note the mileage when you replaced the timing belt. You may get a premature message indicating you need to replace the timing belt. The reason why GM wants the crank and cam pinned to the engine during installation is so everything is set back to factory specs. The sprocket on the cam is NOT pinned. Once you lock the crank and cam, you install the timing belt, loosen the cam sprocket, set the tensioner, and then tighten the cam sprocket. This ensure the belt is set exactly to zero and all of the logic in the ECM will function correctly. Keep in mind all of the parts have tolerances. This method is the only true way to ensure everything is setup exactly the way GM intended it to be. I doubt you will have any trouble other than a premature change timing belt message. Just want folks reading this to know why you area supposed to pin the crank and cam. If you don't you could possible run into phantom problems in the future. I hope that you don't think I am being disrespectful, because that is not my intention. I want people to make informed decisions, that all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I am glad you were successful at replacing your timing belt. Makes sure to note the mileage when you replaced the timing belt. You may get a premature message indicating you need to replace the timing belt. The reason why GM wants the crank and cam pinned to the engine during installation is so everything is set back to factory specs. The sprocket on the cam is NOT pinned. Once you lock the crank and cam, you install the timing belt, loosen the cam sprocket, set the tensioner, and then tighten the cam sprocket. This ensure the belt is set exactly to zero and all of the logic in the ECM will function correctly. Keep in mind all of the parts have tolerances. This method is the only true way to ensure everything is setup exactly the way GM intended it to be. I doubt you will have any trouble other than a premature change timing belt message. Just want folks reading this to know why you area supposed to pin the crank and cam. If you don't you could possible run into phantom problems in the future. I hope that you don't think I am being disrespectful, because that is not my intention. I want people to make informed decisions, that all.
That makes sense to set the cam sprocket back in alignment with the cam after replacing the belt. Hopefully, the tolerances in the new belt won’t cause any issues.
 

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I know everyone says you don't need special tools for the timing belt change... but I'm not willing to take the risk of the cam moving and bending valves. Has anyone purchased a kit for timing belt replacement that worked? The OEM specified tools are crazy expensive!
 
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