I've had my Cruze for 2weeks now and I noticed its kind of slow I read somewhere that its probably the traction control so I was wondering if it would be ok to drive with the traction control off in dry conditions? I know its not a race car but my previous car had less power but had way more pick up then the Cruze. Any suggestions?
Traction Control on or off?
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1) What model?
2) What transmission?
3) Use higher octane gas. 87 in a Cruze = not happy Cruze.
4) Re-gap your spark plugs to .035"
5) Try turning the traction control off, but I seriously doubt it's activating. I've made mine activate all of once. It only affects take-off when you floor it from a stop, which isn't really the Cruze's strength anyway.
2) What transmission?
3) Use higher octane gas. 87 in a Cruze = not happy Cruze.
4) Re-gap your spark plugs to .035"
5) Try turning the traction control off, but I seriously doubt it's activating. I've made mine activate all of once. It only affects take-off when you floor it from a stop, which isn't really the Cruze's strength anyway.
2012 LS, Auto trans. I use 87 ill change it and see how that goes.
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In a manual, indeed it is. I can screech my tires before it kicks in on a manual. There's plenty of acceleration there on the 1.4T from a stop.
The 1.8 is a different story between 2500-5000 RPM. After that, it's got a nice high-range power output, but it's weak in between. OP, you might want to look into the Trifecta tune as well. The Cruze is a heavy car with a not-very-powerful engine. Older cars with less power under the hood might feel a little quicker than the 1.8 because of their probably lighter curb weight.
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Not me
Yeah after I get going its fine but when I start from a stop its just way too sluggish. I look into the Trifecta tune ill try everything i just want a little more power on take off
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Not really. Not unless youre actually scrabbling for traction. They just suggest that because the traction control will help prevent wheel hop that happens when a FWD car is driven like a moron that can damage the transmission.
Too much wheelspin on pavement for a car not built to handle it can break input shafts to the transmission, as well as axles and sometimes differentials.
Don't drive like a teenager with a Honda and dump the clutch at 4000 RPM and you'll be just fine.
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Too much wheelspin on pavement for a car not built to handle it can break input shafts to the transmission, as well as axles and sometimes differentials.
Don't drive like a teenager with a Honda and dump the clutch at 4000 RPM and you'll be just fine.
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lmao!
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I've heard it before, my buddies Colorado is a total dog normaly, but with the traction control and stabili trac off it definitely wakes it up. I figured it might be the same with either manual or auto trans. I don't see it being out of the realm to laugh your a** off at.
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Penguin LS has the same crappy tires. I suspect the ones on Penguin LS won't last 20K miles. Tire manufacturers really need to stand up to the car manufacturers and refuse to put crappy tires on the cars as OEM tires. Doing so turns people off to that particular tire brand.
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Cough BRIDGESTONE cough. Driven on 3 OEM sets. All awful.
The Firestones aren't completely terrible for a passenger car tire. But they're not great. They belong on a Taurus or something.
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That's true, I forgot about abusing the car on high traction surfaces with it off. Probably because I am out of that phase and never do it
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Keep it on. It makes no difference in how the car operates normally. The only time it needs to go off is when wheelspin is wanted, such as rocking the car out of a snowbank or getting up a snowy hill.
My Eco MT has zero issue spinning both front wheels through 1st and into 2nd. Even with traction control on. Some grippier rubber would make it stop that.
My Eco MT has zero issue spinning both front wheels through 1st and into 2nd. Even with traction control on. Some grippier rubber would make it stop that.
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It's more likely the little tiny engine and no torque than TCS. Have to get the revs up with either engine before it will get going. If the tires aren't spinning TCS is not doing anything.
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Where does it say this?
I'm reading this as don't do burn outs because the driveline may be lame and break. Other than that I see no reason it would harm the driveline.
At least with my Eco, it will lay parallel lines on a very hard launch. The only time it does a 1-wheel wonder is when flooring it in a low gear while turning sharply on a wet road. Keeping the wheels straight ahead gets fairly equal torque to both of them. It's not surprising, since this drivetrain was designed to minimize torque steer mechanically with the traction control as a backup.
Doing repeated hard acceleration runs is harder on the AT than the MT. With the MT it's the clutch and synchros taking the abuse, while with the AT it's the shift solenoids and other delicate electronic bits getting hotted up. Those electronics don't like being warm, while the mechanical bits in the MT could care less about the temperature (up to a very high point). If one's planning on doing sustained high-speed runs across the desert or western mountains, or even a lot of drag racing with the AT Cruze, an auxiliary transmission cooler would be a wise investment. Lower transmission temperatures = happier electronics = longer transmission life.
Doing repeated hard acceleration runs is harder on the AT than the MT. With the MT it's the clutch and synchros taking the abuse, while with the AT it's the shift solenoids and other delicate electronic bits getting hotted up. Those electronics don't like being warm, while the mechanical bits in the MT could care less about the temperature (up to a very high point). If one's planning on doing sustained high-speed runs across the desert or western mountains, or even a lot of drag racing with the AT Cruze, an auxiliary transmission cooler would be a wise investment. Lower transmission temperatures = happier electronics = longer transmission life.
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