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2014 Cruze Diesel, 2007 Cobalt, 1981 Camaro Z28, 2017 Volt
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Oh yeah - there was a significant amount of swearing from both myself and my buddy who's lift I borrowed to do this job and who gave me a hand.

I'm still convinced the engine/trans combo is larger than the engine bay.
 

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Hmm went to do my top off of transmission fluid today and realized I did the spec wrong last time. You only ad .5 Liter cold or 1 liter if hot. Last time I only put in .5 liter after getting hot. Oh well, replaced around 5 qts of fluid today and set the limit. So far no leaks after 24 hours so I'm happy.
 

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2014 Cruze Diesel, 2007 Cobalt, 1981 Camaro Z28, 2017 Volt
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Where do you see that spec?

The one I've always followed was run the trans fluid up to a specified temp, open the check valve, while everything is running, and let it run out until it slows to a rate of one drip per second, then reinstall the check plug and turn the engine off. Then you add 0.5L.
 

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Where do you see that spec?

The one I've always followed was run the trans fluid up to a specified temp, open the check valve, while everything is running, and let it run out until it slows to a rate of one drip per second, then reinstall the check plug and turn the engine off. Then you add 0.5L.
You know, I actually don't know what's right. I've watched different videos and both give different values to fill when hot. One says .5 and the other says around 1 liter.

Either way, I can't imagine .5 liters/quarts is going to make that much of a difference.
 

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Where do you see that spec?

The one I've always followed was run the trans fluid up to a specified temp, open the check valve, while everything is running, and let it run out until it slows to a rate of one drip per second, then reinstall the check plug and turn the engine off. Then you add 0.5L.
I’m now at 40k miles on the diesel and haven’t even looked if they are leaking. Shifting is business as usual and had the trans flushed at the dealer at 30k. Hope Florida temps kept it from leaking.
 

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2014 Cruze Diesel, 2007 Cobalt, 1981 Camaro Z28, 2017 Volt
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I'm going to assume/hope, they they took a look at the trans lines when they did that, and if they did they'd make mention if they were leaking. You might be one of the lucky ones, as they're a pain to change!
 

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I'm going to assume/hope, they they took a look at the trans lines when they did that, and if they did they'd make mention if they were leaking. You might be one of the lucky ones, as they're a pain to change!
Knowing the dealer if they where leaking they’d call me ASAP to sell me in the repair and ask for authorization. I’ll check tomorrow but for now the trans shifts identical to when I got it new.
 

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2014 Cruze Diesel, 2007 Cobalt, 1981 Camaro Z28, 2017 Volt
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That's good - it was pretty obvious with ours there were shifting issues.

No leaking lines anymore, but its shitty in different ways. Probably related to it being low/having leaking lines for however long it had them before I found that out...oh well...may just be a solenoid, but I'm not sure its replaceable.
 

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That's good - it was pretty obvious with ours there were shifting issues.

No leaking lines anymore, but its shitty in different ways. Probably related to it being low/having leaking lines for however long it had them before I found that out...oh well...may just be a solenoid, but I'm not sure its replaceable.
I’ve noticed GM has way over complicated things when it comes to lines. I see the vast quantities of plastic couplers and hoses that are just wonky. What is wrong with a old school metal barb and a simple hose/ clamp combo. Under the hood of the 1.4T I’d hate to replace all the plastic junk once it cracks with age. What happened to the simplicity of metal outlet and rubber hose to other metal outlets.
 

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2014 Cruze Diesel, 2007 Cobalt, 1981 Camaro Z28, 2017 Volt
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That's the thing: the lines are metal and rubber. They leak at the rubber to metal connections, and it doesn't seem to be limited to just this car - it's pretty typical across the industry.
 

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I’ve noticed GM has way over complicated things when it comes to lines. I see the vast quantities of plastic couplers and hoses that are just wonky. What is wrong with a old school metal barb and a simple hose/ clamp combo. Under the hood of the 1.4T I’d hate to replace all the plastic junk once it cracks with age. What happened to the simplicity of metal outlet and rubber hose to other metal outlets.
its not a GM thing

vehicles are vending machines for parts

if it was a barbed fitting/hose clamp set up, you could go anywhere and fix it

the way manufacturers do it, you HAVE TO go to the dealer (or until say 10 yrs ago when most ppl started buying online) to get it fixed, or in the smaller percentage, buy the part from the dealer and diy

theyre protecting their investment, on our 2012 western stars at job i used to work at, there were 3 def heating lines (def was heated by the coolant)....all 3 lines were different and had different connectors, all proprietary, so you couldnt macgyver them

same with injectors...frickin motor had 6 different injector lines....at least Mack used the same injector line for each cylinder, you only needed one part number on hand.

on my wifes 98 cherokee, i have the trans lines 'fixed' with the barbed fittings and fuel injector clamps....been good for 8yrs so far, lol....hell, we fixed allison trans lines the same way at work

again on wifes 98 cherokee, 3 mos ago a leak started in a pinhole in the hard fuel line coming up the drivers wheel well....its a ~4' long bendy hard line....$50+ if you can find one.....i removed it, slipped $3 of fuel injection hose over the hole and used another $3 of fuel injection clamps to hold it on....itll last another 15yrs easy
 

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im friends with a car salesman

3x a week, a car comes in with a 'big' repair bill

like a 2015 cruze that needs $3000 of work, the service writer reads the customer, then texts my boy that he's got a live one

he pops in all non chalant and does his spiel, how he can put the customer into something NEW and with a WARRANTY and keep the payment the same, lol

customer signs and drives off happy, service writer gets a cash bonus from my boy

errybody is happy, customer has new car, writer has drinkin money, my boy has another one on the board, store is happy - more manufacturer money coming, plus the money from the trade, manufacturer is happy they moved another unit, bank is happy

its ugly man
 

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im friends with a car salesman

3x a week, a car comes in with a 'big' repair bill

like a 2015 cruze that needs $3000 of work, the service writer reads the customer, then texts my boy that he's got a live one

he pops in all non chalant and does his spiel, how he can put the customer into something NEW and with a WARRANTY and keep the payment the same, lol

customer signs and drives off happy, service writer gets a cash bonus from my boy

errybody is happy, customer has new car, writer has drinkin money, my boy has another one on the board, store is happy - more manufacturer money coming, plus the money from the trade, manufacturer is happy they moved another unit, bank is happy

its ugly man
And people wonder why car salesman (and that industry as a whole) are some of the least trustworthy people. I've heard in Canada it's really bad with how dealers take advantage of people.

Service departments at dealers are no better, many times they just throw parts at cars until it's fixed. That's why I always asked "do you guarantee this will fix it". I've walked away from dealers before after using that line when they said no, only to find out it wasn't that problem. Once a dealer told me I had warped brake rotors (8 month old OEM) when in fact the steering rack was bad. I had another dealer tell me I had bad wheel bearings (which they dialed and even found not bad but said "start there" anyways) when I actually had a bad tripod joint on the driveshaft. It's just crazy. Always, always, always ask if they guarantee it will fix the problem. That tells you exactly how confident they are.

Taking it to the dealer is always the last resort in my mind unless it's under warranty, which in that case they can throw parts at it all day if they want.
 

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And people wonder why car salesman (and that industry as a whole) are some of the least trustworthy people. I've heard in Canada it's really bad with how dealers take advantage of people.

Service departments at dealers are no better, many times they just throw parts at cars until it's fixed. That's why I always asked "do you guarantee this will fix it". I've walked away from dealers before after using that line when they said no, only to find out it wasn't that problem. Once a dealer told me I had warped brake rotors (8 month old OEM) when in fact the steering rack was bad. I had another dealer tell me I had bad wheel bearings (which they dialed and even found not bad but said "start there" anyways) when I actually had a bad tripod joint on the driveshaft. It's just crazy. Always, always, always ask if they guarantee it will fix the problem. That tells you exactly how confident they are.

Taking it to the dealer is always the last resort in my mind unless it's under warranty, which in that case they can throw parts at it all day if they want.
yeah this particular car salesman is in PA, lol but theyre all the same, just get the customer in the box.

i had a dealer tell me i had bad cv joint in my jeep....it doesnt have cv joints, lol, its solid front axle.

2nd time when my diesel cruze went into limp mode 300 miles from home, left it at that dealer as they had to wait for parts to do the def tank warranty

they called and said all the free stuff is done, now it needed a new dpf....WTF??....to the tune of $3000 with labor

i brought the rental back, and started driving the car home, the countdown would get me to a particular town where i could rent a uhaul and dolly and bring the car home and wait for the delete to arrive in the mail

i drove it one gear down and 10 miles before that town and 15 miles before the countdown would put me in severe slow limp mode, the car started working fine again, the countdown was gone....

so being the bad ass that i am, (lol)...i kept driving

and made it home

and 3 days later drove it back to work 500 miles

i put 3000 miles on the "bad dpf' before i installed the delete.

fricking thieves

i buy my filters and other larger $$ car items online....the odd gasket that i need randomly, like a $5 part, its cheaper to go to the dealer than deal with shipping costs (canada) but otherwise, im done with new cars and being raped
 

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Being at the mercy of anybody sucks. Be it car repair to house repair and the worst of it all health issues.

Fortunately health issues are my only "Being at the mercy of" life issues and even that I have family in the medical fields.

It is always fun when others ASSume you don't know what end of the screw driver to use.....
 

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When I was under my car doing other work with the front panels removed, I noticed the transmission cooler lines were leaking around the metal barbs. It's not too bad but enough I'd like to repair it. I'd prefer to do a permanent fix and not just replace the lines with OEM parts that will just leak again in the future.

Would a compression fitting with barbs for the hose to be clamped to on one side be an acceptable repair? Like what guys installing tranny coolers use? Something like this Derale Transmission Line Compression Fitting Kit - 3/8" Line to 3/8" NPT Barb Derale Accessories and Parts D13032

Is there something better? I'm all ears. I searched around here but didn't find something conclusive that I was looking for.
I've had the same issue, and was able to make a temporary repair with self sealing tape, it actually worked really well to my surprise, but I notice that the lines started leaking in the first place because of their proximity to the turbo housing, the heat softens the rubber line where it connects to the metal tubing, so the heat eventually cooked the self sealing tape... I ended up making a metal shield out of thin aluminum window flashing, and wrapped new self leasing silicone tape and it's held for about 2 months now, I'm always checking the hose for oil and its been dry. but eventually have to change the lines which looks like its a pain.
 

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I've had the same issue, and was able to make a temporary repair with self sealing tape, it actually worked really well to my surprise, but I notice that the lines started leaking in the first place because of their proximity to the turbo housing, the heat softens the rubber line where it connects to the metal tubing, so the heat eventually cooked the self sealing tape... I ended up making a metal shield out of thin aluminum window flashing, and wrapped new self leasing silicone tape and it's held for about 2 months now, I'm always checking the hose for oil and its been dry. but eventually have to change the lines which looks like its a pain.
Also, I don't suggest using the metal worm clamps on compression lines as they loosen up with the change of temperature, also they don't make uneven pressure since the worm gear part is flat.
 
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