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Hello, I have an 2011 Chevy Cruze eco 1.4 turbo with a bad transmission. I was wondering if there was any info, or links on the best way to remove it. Also which tools may be needed. And if other year cruze transmissions may also work.
Thanks for any help.
 

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you either need to take the engine/box out as one unit from the top or if you have a hoist you can brace the engine, drop the subframe and take the box from the bottom. i just take the engine/box as one unit.

1, use 11mm or 7/16 to drain the trans
2, take the wheels off
3, get an 18mm spanner and socket, undo the bolts holding the hub to the strut
4, get a 32mm socket and undo the nut on the end of the cv/drive shaft, pop the left cv out
5, use an 18mm to undo 2 bolts holding the r/h cv to the back of the engine, then undo the hub nut and pop it out.
6, undo radiator hoses, turbo pipes
7, take the battery box out
8, open the fuse box cover, i think 10mm x 3, pull it apart by spreading the side clips
9, take the front fuse connector out of the box
10, undo the harness off the car at the connectors on the fuse box
11, attach your engine lifter, 2 lugs on the front, one on the back, gearbox side, use an adjustable engine leveler because you will need to tilt the trans down to get it out
12, use the engine lifter to take some tension on the engine
13, get under the car and remove the front and rear torque mounts, remove them completely so they don't get caught up.
14, use a 15mm to crack the exhaust brace mid car underneath, lower it slightly to take tension off the exhaust
15, undo the exhaust at the bottom of the car, 3 bolts usually 10mm
16, up top, remove side engine mounts and start jacking the engine out, tilting the trans down to pass a body tab on the chassis rail.
17, once out take the starter off the back of the engine
18, through the starter hole, rotate the engine and remove the torque converter
19, remove bolts around the bellhousing and pull the box off.
20, when reinstalling the box, put the torque converter in, turn it until you hear 3 clicks, then it will be seated.
21, bolt everything back up and enjoy.

note: in 2011+ cars the tcm might be a mongrel, gm made it so modules could not mix, so best to use your original tcm, if not you might get a vin mismatch error, but if the box is out of an even later car it might stop it from starting, the tcm is under the black cover on the front of the trans, about 12 x 10mm bolts and about the same 8mm bolts.

hopefully i have not missed anything but you will get it, good luck
 

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Make sure the Torque Convertor is filled with trans fluid before putting everything in to place. Otherwise. You may end up with a inoperative trans.

It needs to be primed.
 

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Make sure the Torque Convertor is filled with trans fluid before putting everything in to place. Otherwise. You may end up with a inoperative trans.

It needs to be primed.
never had that issue, converter is always empty when i put them in, ive done like 8 cruze engine/boxes in the last month
 

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One guy already posted his didn't work.

Be safer then sorry. Fill the torque up. That's way too much risk to not fill up and it's an easy 5 seconds out of your day. Vs. another tear down because you didn't do that one simple procedure.
 

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Take some pictures and turn this into a How-To:

How-To: Write a Tutorial

Hello, I have an 2011 Chevy Cruze eco 1.4 turbo with a bad transmission. I was wondering if there was any info, or links on the best way to remove it. Also which tools may be needed. And if other year cruze transmissions may also work.
Thanks for any help.
you either need to take the engine/box out as one unit from the top or if you have a hoist you can brace the engine, drop the subframe and take the box from the bottom. i just take the engine/box as one unit.

1, use 11mm or 7/16 to drain the trans
2, take the wheels off
3, get an 18mm spanner and socket, undo the bolts holding the hub to the strut
4, get a 32mm socket and undo the nut on the end of the cv/drive shaft, pop the left cv out
5, use an 18mm to undo 2 bolts holding the r/h cv to the back of the engine, then undo the hub nut and pop it out.
6, undo radiator hoses, turbo pipes
7, take the battery box out
8, open the fuse box cover, i think 10mm x 3, pull it apart by spreading the side clips
9, take the front fuse connector out of the box
10, undo the harness off the car at the connectors on the fuse box
11, attach your engine lifter, 2 lugs on the front, one on the back, gearbox side, use an adjustable engine leveler because you will need to tilt the trans down to get it out
12, use the engine lifter to take some tension on the engine
13, get under the car and remove the front and rear torque mounts, remove them completely so they don't get caught up.
14, use a 15mm to crack the exhaust brace mid car underneath, lower it slightly to take tension off the exhaust
15, undo the exhaust at the bottom of the car, 3 bolts usually 10mm
16, up top, remove side engine mounts and start jacking the engine out, tilting the trans down to pass a body tab on the chassis rail.
17, once out take the starter off the back of the engine
18, through the starter hole, rotate the engine and remove the torque converter
19, remove bolts around the bellhousing and pull the box off.
20, when reinstalling the box, put the torque converter in, turn it until you hear 3 clicks, then it will be seated.
21, bolt everything back up and enjoy.

note: in 2011+ cars the tcm might be a mongrel, gm made it so modules could not mix, so best to use your original tcm, if not you might get a vin mismatch error, but if the box is out of an even later car it might stop it from starting, the tcm is under the black cover on the front of the trans, about 12 x 10mm bolts and about the same 8mm bolts.

hopefully i have not missed anything but you will get it, good luck
 

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I have a 2012 Chevy cruise that runs perfect when cold. As soon as engine warms up check engine light comes on and it goes into limp mode. My question is is it common for a bad transmission to run when cold. Seems to me that a bad transmission would not work when cold or hot
 

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They work when cold. Quit when hot.

The one car i had that problem with. 78 Buick Skylark. I drive around town all day without issues. But take it on a road trip. And 40 miles was all before Drive gear would quit. Limp it back home in second. Drove that car for 2 weeks and never knew till road trip that weekend.

Fuel pumps do the same thing. Or did.
 

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I have a 2012 Chevy cruise that runs perfect when cold. As soon as engine warms up check engine light comes on and it goes into limp mode. My question is is it common for a bad transmission to run when cold. Seems to me that a bad transmission would not work when cold or hot
i have one doing the same, depends on milage and condition, the car i have has high miles so im going to swap the box, suspecting burnt clutches, it drives for about 100 meters before going into limp mode with a generic tcm error. if its decently low miles then i would say change your fluid and valve body, it could be a pressure problem, clean your solenoids to.
 

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They work when cold. Quit when hot.

The one car i had that problem with. 78 Buick Skylark. I drive around town all day without issues. But take it on a road trip. And 40 miles was all before Drive gear would quit. Limp it back home in second. Drove that car for 2 weeks and never knew till road trip that weekend.

Fuel pumps do the same thing. Or did.
as you drive the trans fluid heats up and gets thinner, it can be a symptom of low fluid but with such an old box the bands/clutch packs were probably worn
 

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as you drive the trans fluid heats up and gets thinner, it can be a symptom of low fluid but with such an old box the bands/clutch packs were probably worn
The box wasn't that old at the time I had it.

It was also a grandma car. Low miles.

A vehicle that doesn't get used is more harm then normal wear and tear.

In other words. The seals were going bad in the hydraulics.
 
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