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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So our 2014 diesel has been going into drive very hard lately. It would do it every once in a while over the past few years, but now it seems to slam every time you put it into drive. It also slams pretty hard when you let off the brake and the car goes back into drive from neutral. It doesn’t seem to do it when going into reverse. The car has 100k miles on it and had amsoil trans fluid put in around 60k miles. Is there something repairable that causes this? A solenoid or clutch pack or something? I’m fine with opening up the transmission to an extent, I would just like a bit of direction if anyone has any.
 

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This is a well documented problem with this Aisin transmission.

The condition worsens with ambient and transmission temperature. As temperatures drop, like during winter, the problem goes away.

There’s three steps to address this issue.

1) Complete flush of entire transmission and torque converter. This is costly because the fluid is expensive and about six drains and refills are required. This action almost never corrects the problem. But sometimes pushes it down the road.

2) Replace the valve body in the transmission. This seems to fix the problem in some cases. But not in all cases. And it is very expensive.

3) Replace the entire transmission with a new (not rebuilt) unit. This always fixes the problem. But it’s crazy expensive.

Those three steps are what TAC will instruct your dealership to do.

In my case, it required all three.

In the meantime, you can defeat this transmission behaviour by placing the gear selector into manual mode once you’ve brought the vehicle to a stop. When you release the brake and start rolling again, you return the gear selector back to automatic.

The other option is to only drive in the winter.
 
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This is the same problem we've had for years. Basically entirely a non-issue in winter. Seems to really like doing it after driving a good number of miles on the freeway, too (say, when you get off and come to a light after the offramp), which is somewhat bizarre.

The manual mode trick seems to only like to work as long as it's left in manual as you're almost to a stop. Otherwise, it'll shift into neutral and you'll run into the issue right when you switch into manual mode while stopped. At least, if that happens, you'll be stopped so it won't be as drastic as if it happens when you're applying the throttle.

What I do anymore is just take my foot off the brake and see what the car does. If it's moving forward, I know we're in drive and am free to apply the throttle, but if it doesn't start creeping, I know it's not shifted back into drive so I don't apply the throttle, which lessens the shock a lot (except when on an reverse incline and the car starts rolling back like a manual).

My wife's strategy is to ignore all that, push the pedal down harder, and get mad at the massive jolt she gets. :LOL:

If the trans lines ever decide they are leaking again, I'll just be doing the $5 fix, but plumbing them to a large external cooler with a fan in the hopes it keeps the fluid cooler, but overall, I'm waiting for this thing to neutral-slam itself one too many times at some point.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
This is a well documented problem with this Aisin transmission.

The condition worsens with ambient and transmission temperature. As temperatures drop, like during winter, the problem goes away.

There’s three steps to address this issue.

1) Complete flush of entire transmission and torque converter. This is costly because the fluid is expensive and about six drains and refills are required. This action almost never corrects the problem. But sometimes pushes it down the road.

2) Replace the valve body in the transmission. This seems to fix the problem in some cases. But not in all cases. And it is very expensive.

3) Replace the entire transmission with a new (not rebuilt) unit. This always fixes the problem. But it’s crazy expensive.

Those three steps are what TAC will instruct your dealership to do.

In my case, it required all three.

In the meantime, you can defeat this transmission behaviour by placing the gear selector into manual mode once you’ve brought the vehicle to a stop. When you release the brake and start rolling again, you return the gear selector back to automatic.

The other option is to only drive in the winter.
Thank you, I think I might give it the “run her till she blows” treatment honestly. I’m guessing the valve body isn’t excessively terrible to get out and can probably be done through the oil pan correct? Depending on price I may give that a shot. It’s cheaper than a new car. The manual mode is a good idea. It’s my girl’s car so trying to teach her how to do this might be tricky lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
This is the same problem we've had for years. Basically entirely a non-issue in winter. Seems to really like doing it after driving a good number of miles on the freeway, too (say, when you get off and come to a light after the offramp), which is somewhat bizarre.

The manual mode trick seems to only like to work as long as it's left in manual as you're almost to a stop. Otherwise, it'll shift into neutral and you'll run into the issue right when you switch into manual mode while stopped. At least, if that happens, you'll be stopped so it won't be as drastic as if it happens when you're applying the throttle.

What I do anymore is just take my foot off the brake and see what the car does. If it's moving forward, I know we're in drive and am free to apply the throttle, but if it doesn't start creeping, I know it's not shifted back into drive so I don't apply the throttle, which lessens the shock a lot (except when on an reverse incline and the car starts rolling back like a manual).

My wife's strategy is to ignore all that, push the pedal down harder, and get mad at the massive jolt she gets. :LOL:

If the trans lines ever decide they are leaking again, I'll just be doing the $5 fix, but plumbing them to a large external cooler with a fan in the hopes it keeps the fluid cooler, but overall, I'm waiting for this thing to neutral-slam itself one too many times at some point.
Yeah this is my girl’s car and she does the exact same thing lol. Hammer down. I may look into doing the valve body but I’m sure the price may not be worth it. So I’m kinda in the same boat as you just waiting for her to call me one day saying it won’t move with a pile of metal bits and fluid under it. If you do the external cooler, let me know what happens. I don’t plan on getting rid of the car so it’s either gonna blow, get fixed, or just get left the way it is lol
 

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Oh there'll be an update for sure if I go that route.

It really only started happening on ours after the trans cooler lines leaked and it ran low on fluid (to the point where it took seconds to downshift at a WOT command). I changed the fluid to AMSOIL at that point (filling it back up) and replaced the lines a couple months later, but after that initial fluid change is when it started to really show the behavior, though not that often because it was winter.
 

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Thank you, I think I might give it the “run her till she blows” treatment honestly. I’m guessing the valve body isn’t excessively terrible to get out and can probably be done through the oil pan correct? Depending on price I may give that a shot. It’s cheaper than a new car. The manual mode is a good idea. It’s my girl’s car so trying to teach her how to do this might be tricky lol
Transmission is a sealed case with no pan, so only way to do the valve body is to completely uninstall the transmission first.
 

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I've been in the same situation as @MP81 and have been for probably the last 120k miles now, and I've made the same adjustments to my driving.

I haven't had a chance to write anything up about this, but my transmission was getting to a really bad place early last summer with consistently slamming into gear when taking off from a stop and when downshifting from 5-4. It had done this before, and each time I do a drain/fill with the AMSOil Signature Fuel Efficient ATF, it would temporarily improve, but not completely.

When I was doing my yearly drain/fill last summer, I had a bottle of LubeGard Platinum laying on the shelf, leftover from before my wife totalled the minivan. I know the oil purists will say that additives aren't helpful and/or that the AMSOil has everything you'd ever need, but I figured with the state it was in, the transmission wasn't long for this world anyway, so what could it hurt. So, when I did the drain/fill, when doing the level-setting procedure for the trans fluid, I added a 15oz bottle of LubeGard Platinum to the transmission instead of the 0.4 Liter top-off specified in the level-setting procedure.

I noticed the usual slight improvement from the drain/fill at first. As the warmer months dwindled, the harshness never returned to its former level. This spring, it never returned at all, and I haven't had a single rough shift or takeoff, even when temperatures reached the upper 90s outside. I'm assuming something in the Lubegard Platinum worked into those two sticking solenoids and freed them up, but it's purely anecdotal at this point, and others' results may vary. For now, though, I'll be adding another 5 ounces or so of the LubeGard Platinum with each of my drain/fills to keep the ratios at their current levels that seem to be working.
 

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I might have to try that on my next drain/refill, which I don't think I've done in a bit (I only checked the level of the fluid early last year - so that only added 0.5qt of new fluid due to the funky refill procedure). I did the initial drain and refill with AMSOIL at 70k back in Jan of 2018, and we're at probably around 117k miles now, so it's likely time for me to drain and refill again. This time I'll make sure to go drive it around and get it warm before doing this, so I don't have to sit there for an hour waiting for the trans to never come up to temp to check the level.
 

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I might have to try that on my next drain/refill, which I don't think I've done in a bit (I only checked the level of the fluid early last year - so that only added 0.5qt of new fluid due to the funky refill procedure). I did the initial drain and refill with AMSOIL at 70k back in Jan of 2018, and we're at probably around 117k miles now, so it's likely time for me to drain and refill again. This time I'll make sure to go drive it around and get it warm before doing this, so I don't have to sit there for an hour waiting for the trans to never come up to temp to check the level.
I'll be doing my next one whenever I get a couple days to tackle the list I have for minor repairs (things like end links and a coolant leak) and preventative maintenance (timing service, oil pickup seal, clean intake etc.) that I have lined up. Since I drive 25k-35k per year, I just do the fuel filter and trans drain/fill once a year, regardless of mileage, so that I can make sure I'm doing it in warm weather, and it doesn't come due in the middle of January.
 

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Yeah, the couple times I've done trans fluid, I've gone to my buddy's house as he has a 2-poster in his back garage, since they've both been in winter time.

Fuel filter I don't mind so much, but trans fluid, yeah would rather not do that in winter. Maybe I'll do that here soon, especially if I can find that LubeGuard. If you happened to have good luck with it, it's likely we might too, as we also have a super jerky downshift on occasion.
 

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What is the quantity used per change? Does it change based on how much fluid goes in?

This might be a good thing to add into my brother's '01 Century's 4T65-E, it has an occasional harsh upshift that's never been able to be fixed.
 

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What is the quantity used per change? Does it change based on how much fluid goes in?
I used a full 15 oz bottle when I did mine. I put it in instead of the 0.4L at the end of the level-setting procedure. I'm planning to keep the ratio of AMSOil to Lubegard the same, as long as it seems to be working, so I'll be adding something like a 10oz bottle or half of a 15oz bottle with each drain/fill after this.
 

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Oh, well that would be extremely convenient.
 

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This might be a good thing to add into my brother's '01 Century's 4T65-E, it has an occasional harsh upshift that's never been able to be fixed.
I discovered it when trying to save the 41TE transmission in our Chrysler Town & Country. I paired a 15 oz bottle of this with a tube of their Dr. Tranny Instant Shudder Fix (the shudder is a common, but separate, issue with the 41TE) when I was sure the transmission was on its way out around 150k, and made it to almost 220k, with one more fluid change around 185k, before she totaled it, and never had a problem again.

So, there's a more than fair chance it might help the Century too. I wish I would have known about it when I had a string of 5 Luminas, Grand Prix, and an Olds Ciera, model years 1995-2003, with the 4T60 or 4T65, which all had that same harsh upshift problem, because I definitely would have given it a try.
 

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I'll have to drain out some of his trans fluid I think, since it's full. But that's only if he doesn't get something new soon, which I know he's looking to.
 
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