[lgsginger]

Trunk Latch will not open WITH FOB OR BUTTON.

Today I disconnected my battery. It was off for at least an hour while i ran wires to my new amp and sub woofer. after it was all wired I had to reconnect the battery to open the trunk to test the system and it opened like normal. After 30 minutes of the trunk being open and disconnecting the battery to put everything back together I reconnected the battery, closed all of my doors and now the trunk will not open. Neither the FOB or the button releases the trunk, only the interior trunk release opens it. I used WD-40 on the latch as it was a little dirty but no rust or anything; I disconnected the battery again to see if it did anything which it did not. I disconnected the power from the amp(and sub) at the battery terminal to see if there was interference, No change. I grounded the amp to a bolt inside the trunk; it was on the left in the center and it had 2 things already being grounded to it. I grabbed my second key fob from in the house, and the same thing happens, no release. The car will flash the lights twice if i hold the trunk release button. All other features work like normal. Do i need a FOB reprogrammed? but why doesn't the button work? When i have the trunk open, if i close the latch neither the key or button release it. I can hear an audible noise coming from the dash when i push the trunk release.

 

[ChevyGuy]

only the interior trunk release opens it.

You're talking about the mechanical emergency release on the inside of the trunk lid, right?

I'm thinking something is messed up with the latch. Perhaps it's become unplugged from the harness so it's no longer responding to electrical demands.

You might want to check and see if your rear license plate lights still work.

 

[Chevy_Country]

You're talking about the mechanical emergency release on the inside of the trunk lid, right?

I'm thinking something is messed up with the latch. Perhaps it's become unplugged from the harness so it's no longer responding to electrical demands.

You might want to check and see if your rear license plate lights still work.

That's the only thing I can think of as well, or a wire was broken at some point during the sub process possibly, ish happens after all.

I had my sub short to ground once, the ground it was connected to messed up my turn signals, requiring a circuit replaced isjn the BCM and a whole reprogram of the BCM back to the car after srrvice, bout $500 from a friend at a dealer.

Does the sub perform appropriately? Maybe monitor the ground voltage as you press the unlock button so see if you have a short maybe ?

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk