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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My trunk lid has started to rusr I no5iced a break in the paint and a little rust forming, this is the view from the tubk when it's closed

This is the ubderside, only drivers side seems to be compromised


You can tell a little better in this photo the break in paint has travelled just past the center and almost into the passenger side, leaving over half that seam exposed to New England rain




So as far as my comments questions and concerns go, is there anything I can do for the top side, appearance of underside is not a concern clearly you won't see it 90% of the time, function is more a concern there, aside of breaking out the sand paper, and paint what can I do for the top side? I have some 3 year old touch up paint in the pen, maybe that a wet sand and some polish?

And not how can i prevent this from happening again/what could have caused This? That rear windshield rubber textured stopper thing seems very flexible and I'm not sure good that contact cause it, maybe ice formed on that seam and I opened the trunk breaking the paint with the ice?

11 Cruze LTZ 1.4T
04 Ranger XLT 4.0 4x4
 

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I was doing my yearly spring spot check and mine is rusting from the inside(where the bowtie emblem was installed, my best guess they nicked the paint when installing it and well 2 1/2 years of moisture later)
Your thoughts on the ice build up is exactly what is happening, my sonic did the same where the hatch met the rear bumper
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I was doing my yearly spring spot check and mine is rusting from the inside(where the bowtie emblem was installed, my best guess they nicked the paint when installing it and well 2 1/2 years of moisture later)
Your thoughts on the ice build up is exactly what is happening, my sonic did the same where the hatch met the rear bumper
Well, I've seen that theory on another thread and I can't think of a reason that couldn't be the case here so I want to keep that as my assumption as the cause

It's interesting to see that happening there, I just replaced my trunk lid switch and prices no rust, in going to remove the chrome bar the switch fastened to to dip it so I'll give another good look this year

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04 Ranger XLT 4.0 4x4
 

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I think I'd be inclined to use Ospho (phosphoric acid) to treat that. It converts the metal oxide into a different metal oxide that's far less "cancerous". (Turns brown rust into black rust.) Be careful in applying it, as it can leave marks on the paint.
 

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I think I'd be inclined to use Ospho (phosphoric acid) to treat that. It converts the metal oxide into a different metal oxide that's far less "cancerous". (Turns brown rust into black rust.) Be careful in applying it, as it can leave marks on the paint.
This should work. If you do get it on the paint make sure you wipe it off right away while it is wet otherwise you will be buffing forever to get it off the paint. But I had rust like on other cars and used it and the rust never came back. I always used Rust Fix and always got it at NAPA. Once it turns black you can put some touch up paint on it and it shouldn't come back. But I have seen rust do some weird stuff so who knows.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
This should work. If you do get it on the paint make sure you wipe it off right away while it is wet otherwise you will be buffing forever to get it off the paint. But I had rust like on other cars and used it and the rust never came back. I always used Rust Fix and always got it at NAPA. Once it turns black you can put some touch up paint on it and it shouldn't come back. But I have seen rust do some weird stuff so who knows.
Thank you for yhe reply, means a lot, Is either one more effective or easy to get ahold of? Is rust fix a similar product? I have a Napa a stone's throw away, I'll be stopping by tomorrow


I think I'd be inclined to use Ospho (phosphoric acid) to treat that. It converts the metal oxide into a different metal oxide that's far less "cancerous". (Turns brown rust into black rust.) Be careful in applying it, as it can leave marks on the paint.

Thanks for the teply, i appreciate it, Is that a fairly common to see at your local autozone napa oriely? Sounds like something I'd be looking I to, I have a bit of rust on my underside, is that something I could use before chassis paint?

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04 Ranger XLT 4.0 4x4
 

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Thank you for yhe reply, means a lot, Is either one more effective or easy to get ahold of? Is rust fix a similar product? I have a Napa a stone's throw away, I'll be stopping by tomorrow





Thanks for the teply, i appreciate it, Is that a fairly common to see at your local autozone napa oriely? Sounds like something I'd be looking I to, I have a bit of rust on my underside, is that something I could use before chassis paint?

11 Cruze LTZ 1.4T
04 Ranger XLT 4.0 4x4
I don't know which one is better I used Rust fix and the similar product from rustoleum. I personally like rust fix better than rustoleum product because it clear and the rustoleum product goes on like black spray paint.

The other product may work better probably all the same chemical. So who knows.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I don't know which one is better I used Rust fix and the similar product from rustoleum. I personally like rust fix better than rustoleum product because it clear and the rustoleum product goes on like black spray paint.

The other product may work better probably all the same chemical. So who knows.
Well thank you, ill check to see which parts store carries it cheapest!

I'm also looking to do the underside with a more permanent or at least more effective treatment, noticing rust under there, is this a feasible option for the undercarriage?
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There's another product I've used, whose name I've forgotten, that has the phosphoric acid but also a plastic that seals the spot and makes it easy to paint over. That I didn't like as well because if there's any "depth" to the rust, you can't do a second application to get all of it. If you fail to treat that, it will still "grow". Black on the surface, but brown underneath.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
There's another product I've used, whose name I've forgotten, that has the phosphoric acid but also a plastic that seals the spot and makes it easy to paint over. That I didn't like as well because if there's any "depth" to the rust, you can't do a second application to get all of it. If you fail to treat that, it will still "grow". Black on the surface, but brown underneath.
Is the ospho not paintable? If it is I'd probes my stick with that

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Is the ospho not paintable?
I'm not sure. IIRC, it tended to leave some "crusties" behind. I'd clean the area after it's done it's job, dry and then paint with a bit of primer.
 

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If I had something like $50,000 to throw at the project, I might do something like this: :D


 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I'm not sure. IIRC, it tended to leave some "crusties" behind. I'd clean the area after it's done it's job, dry and then paint with a bit of primer.
I hate bugging you again, I just ordered a gallon of the ospho, is there a difference between that and rustoleoms "rust reformer" I can't seem to find any real chemical breakdowns online to tell me what the differences are and if they can be used together, I only my ask because I have a ton of that from doing my trucks frame

I ordered a gallon because in going to do the underside of the cruze as well and do a little chassis painting

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I'm not sure. Rust Reformer does sound like it might have something else in it. Perhaps the plastic coating I mentioned. I notice that it doesn't say anything about a second application. If it does contain plastic, then a second application will do nothing.

What you might try is treat with Ospho until satisfaction, wash it, and then use the Reformer. The washing should minimize any interaction between the products. It sounds like they're trying to do the same thing, but may use a different type of acid to do it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I'm not sure. Rust Reformer does sound like it might have something else in it. Perhaps the plastic coating I mentioned. I notice that it doesn't say anything about a second application. If it does contain plastic, then a second application will do nothing.

What you might try is treat with Ospho until satisfaction, wash it, and then use the Reformer. The washing should minimize any interaction between the products. It sounds like they're trying to do the same thing, but may use a different type of acid to do it.
Interesting, I think I'll do that, I looked at por15 and that sounds like a one step application to do the same thing as the ospho and chassis paint, I think I'd like to take my time and do some thorough painting with possibly multiple coats, I wanna get 30 years out of he lol :D

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