Trunk Switch WITH rear backup camera

MP81 said:

Bumping this ollld thread back up - given the proper harness (for backup cam cars) costs $50 and includes the license plate lights, which I do not need, is the Dorman switch the best option (obviously just splicing it into the factory harness)?

It doesn't look "sealed", but I know even the ones that supposedly are could benefit from extra silicone, but I can't figure out where it would want to be applied.

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The Dorman switch I installed back when I started this thread has started giving me trouble for the first time after about 4.5 years and 90k miles since replacement. It would intermittently fail to open the trunk over the course of this winter, which I assume was because it had water intrude, then freeze. Then it would thaw out and work again in a day or two. It's presently working, but I have a new one sitting on the shelf that I'll need to install before next winter.

So, maybe consider it an every 4 to 5 year maintenance item, I guess. I'm satisfied with that, since it's such an inexpensive and easy repair, and the spliced-in switch lasted me a year longer than the factory switch did.

One recommendation I'd make is that if you live in an area where they salt the roads and rust is common, to replace the screws that mount the trim piece to the trunk lid at the same time you're doing the switch, rather than reinstalling with the old screws. I almost destroyed the Philips heads taking it out the first time, so I found some stainless screws at Menards that were the same size. I'll do the same this time, because even though the screws are good enough that I think they'll hold up being removed this time, they're corroded enough that I wouldn't trust them to still be ok when I do this again in 4-5 years at 250k miles.