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2011 Eco 1.4 turbo with 6 speed manual transmission with 81,000 miles. I bought it needing a turbo. Replaced the turbo and oil feed and return lines, fresh oil change, etc. Stutters and stumbles occasionally and blows blue smoke out the tailpipe.

I've done a ton of reading on here and have replaced many of the common issues and more. It was blowing oil out from under the camshaft cover and at the oil fill cap. Replaced both, seems better but maybe not totally dry. I replaced the plugs, coil pack, valve cover, turbo and both oil lines, intake manifold, the two (one large one small) pcv lines from the intake to the turbo, fuel injectors and rail, negative battery cable. Vacuum is good, compression was 110,110,110,115.

Sometimes it runs beautiful but a few miles later it will start bucking and losing power. This is (maybe other times too) when I'm sure it is consuming the most oil. I drove i last week and went 25 of a 30 mile trip before it acted up at all. Six hours later (back to cold engine) it acted up within a few miles. Today I took it on a 45 mile each way trip (all highway) and it went from oil being full to not showing on the dipstick after the first 45 mile leg. It was acting up often on the way. Steady throttle (when acting up) it's bucking and losing speed on the freeway. Downshift from 6th to 5th and the rpm increase seems to help it get going again. Topped oil off and drove home. Acted up very little and as suspected the oil was still close to full. Down a little because it acted up a couple of times. I can visually see when it is acting up by watching the instant fuel economy reading. It drops down to like 24 mpg at steady 70 in 6th gear. Trip showed 31mpg for todays first leg and 42 mpg for the second leg back.

Am i missing some pcv component? Is the (new) turbo bad? ECU issue? Why so intermittent? I'm stuck hard here. Help! I hope I haven't forgotten anything, I'll add if anything pops up.
 

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Uhh, dug a little deeper and finding cracked piston issues being common.

Is GM backing these longer than normal 5/100 powertrain? Mine unfortunatly is a 2011 with 80k miles.
 

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I'd expect a cracked piston to show up in the compression test. Let's try the simple things first - have you drained the intercooler? it might have a ton of oil left over from the first turbo.
 

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Thanks ChevyGuy. I hadn't thought to drain/clean the intercooler. A couple more thoughts or questions though.. I'm consuming a tremendous amount of oil from the crankcase so I still am losing new oil. Are my compression numbers decent? Is it possible because the problem is intermittent that I cracked off section of a piston between the first and second rings is going in and out of place? I read that's where they crack maybe it fits in snug sometimes and pops out other times scraping the cylinder wall and allowing oil to blow by.
 

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I'm consuming a tremendous amount of oil from the crankcase so I still am losing new oil.
That's not good. If it's not the problematic PCV system, then perhaps it is a cracked piston. I'm not sure of the details on that.

Because of the leaking seals, it does sound like the crankcase is getting pressurized when it shouldn't. That can be PCV, but it could also be excessive blowby.
 

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I am looking into Valve Spring Seals leaking, once that pcv valve goes, and the pressure gets reversed and all sorts of havoc starts.
I did replace my Turbo and the problem did improve but, once car sits over night oil is leaking past the spring seals and upon start up getting the blue gray smoke, once running it clears up and compression feels fine, but as I monitor the oil loss every few days it is down and I have been adding some lucas oil leak thick stuff - has noit stopped any but has slowed the consumption a bit. The real fix I am planning is to replace those seals, unless I can convince the dealer that this issue was a result of the PVC failure, along with the oil crank case seal, a few oil cooler line issues, the intake manifold, the valve cover and the turbo I just replaced, along with a water housing, a and heater hose as the oil was getting up the intake. Once I replaced all those I am left with the final fix which after very lite driving and testing leads to those valve spring seals.
 
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