Turbo oil feed line screw keeps spinning

1595 Views 24 Replies 11 Participants Last post by teamjp4, 26 d ago

Mo Cruze

Discussion Starter · 2 mo ago

Hey guys. I'm in the middle of finishing up replacing the oil cooler. I replaced all lines. When trying to tighten the screw that holds down the turbo oil feed line it keeps spinning. I can't torque it to spec. It feels tight by hand but with a wrench I can keep spinning it.

What should I do? Is there a way to make it tight like wrap something around the threads before I tighten it? Do you think it's safe to drive like this?

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suxzn0

· #2 · 2 mo ago

Mo Cruze said:
Hey guys. I'm in the middle of finishing up replacing the oil cooler. I replaced all lines. When trying to tighten the screw that holds down the turbo oil feed line it keeps spinning. I can't torque it to spec. It feels tight by hand but with a wrench, I can keep spinning it.

What should I do? Is there a way to make it tight like wrapping something around the threads before I tighten it? Do you think it's safe to drive like this?

It's most likely stripped. If you keep spinning it then you will only make it worse. If you drive with it stripped like that then you will have an oil leak or the turbo will not get oil and lead to turbo failure. If you are lucky you could possibly get away with retreading it. But chances are you will need to get a new turbo. Do you think you could send a pic of what the problem is so I can get a better understanding of what I'm looking at so can tell you what you're dealing with and how to fix it? Thanks!

Mo Cruze

Discussion Starter · #3 · 2 mo ago

It's screwed in and it feels tight by hand, just not torque to spec. Like if I just put the socket on there and try to turn it I can't but once I grab the socket wrench connected it'll just spin. Yes I stopped spinning it to not make it worse.
I took it for a test drive no leak yet. But who knows if it will loosen after a bunch of vibrations. But I would like to address it without replacing the whole turbo. That job took me 3 days. Not trying to do it again. I remember I used to have this hard metal foil type stuff that you could wrap around a screw and then screw it in for holes that are slightly stripped.
Or may e some thread locker or thread sealer?
Anyone have any ideas?

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tygriff45

· #4 · 2 mo ago

The torque on that bolt is very low (only 89 lb-in). The very worst case is that you would have to re-tap it larger thread and then put a larger screw with a washer on it to hold the turbo feed line flange on. The turbo would not need to be replaced. If anything it would be the oil cooler and cartridge assembly.
You could buy a tap and new screw/washer for under $15 and be back in action if the line did pull out.

Mine would spin over 100lb-in of torque and it hasn't leaked in 2 years. You should be fine. Keep an eye on it.

Mo Cruze

Discussion Starter · #5 · 2 mo ago (Edited)

Wow I just realized that's my brand new oil cooler I just installed. SMH Sold me a new oil cooler with a stripped screw hole thanks dorman.

For now I'm going to just keep an eye on it I think but it worries me. I want to have a solution ready in case I'm on the road and notice a leak.

The foil stuff I was referring to before is called Mr grip. I just found it at Ace hardware online.

Woodmate Mr. Grip 3/4 in. D X 2 in. L Steel Round Head Screw Hole Repair Kit 1 pk - Ace Hardware

Use these on furniture of all types including tables, chairs, stools, cabinets and benches. You can repair wood sockets and dowels, brooms, toys and household tools. Also may be used to fix stripped screw holes.Find the STRIPS REPAIR KIT 3/4X2 at Ace.

www.acehardware.com

Description says also for metal and concrete.

I'm thinking of putting blue thread locker. Or some Mr grip or both around the screw then screw in. What do you guys think?

Tapping it makes me nervous.
Any other ideas or solutions for me guys? Thanks

JLL

· #6 · 2 mo ago

Replace the bolt and chase the threads in the hole. It's difficult to mess up something that small. Assuming you know what you’re doing.

Mo Cruze

Discussion Starter · #7 · 2 mo ago

Does anybody know the part number to this screw/screw?

Baldrico1

· #8 · 2 mo ago

11101291 M6x10

frankh

· #9 · 2 mo ago

Lets be clear here. Its not the bolt that has stripped but the threads inside the hole. You need to fix the threads properly. The traditional way to do this is to get an M6 by 1.0mm Helicoil kit. The hole needs to be drilled out to the correct size (the helicoil kit often comes with the correct drill bit), new threads tapped in the larger hole and the helicoil spring wound into the new threads. The old bolt will then thread into this repaired thread.

Using some kind of wonder sealant is a botch job and this connection is critical.. I.e it CANNOT be allowed to fail.

Do it right and if you're not confident, find somebody who is.. Its a 10 minute job.

Reactions: 2

Toolbelt

· #10 · 2 mo ago

Based on the alternative (replacing the oil cooler), drilling/tapping is the easier solution. The stress on this bolt is minimal, so maybe even a self tapping bolt would do the trick. 1/4" threaded bolt is fractionally larger and would cut threads. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN.

Mo Cruze

Discussion Starter · #11 · 2 mo ago (Edited)

frankh said:
Lets be clear here. Its not the bolt that has stripped but the threads inside the hole. You need to fix the threads properly. The traditional way to do this is to get an M6 by 1.0mm Helicoil kit. The hole needs to be drilled out to the correct size (the helicoil kit often comes with the correct drill bit), new threads tapped in the larger hole and the helicoil spring wound into the new threads. The old bolt will then thread into this repaired thread.

Using some kind of wonder sealant is a botch job and this connection is critical.. I.e it CANNOT be allowed to fail.

Do it right and if you're not confident, find somebody who is.. Its a 10 minute job.

I know it's not the screw I just wanted to have an extra in case it vibrates out and I lose it I'll have another.
Ive never used a helicoil kit before. But I just watched a couple videos pretty simple. I'm still nervous though to do it. I don't want to somehow make it worse and then I have to replace the whole oil cooler again 😬. Also I'm not sure that a drill would fit in the engine compartment to be able to do this job without removing the oil cooler. I'll might buy the kit keep it in my car and just keep an eye on it. So far so good.

Are you 100% sure the m6 by 1.0 mm is the size I need?

Mo Cruze

Discussion Starter · #12 · 2 mo ago

I did find a super easy option but very expensive for what it is. It's a loctite strip thread repair epoxy kit. You put a release liquid on the bolt and then fill the hole with the epoxy and screw it in remove after 5 to 10 minutes and you have new threads. They want 50$ for it.
Says it can handle 126 foot lb .
Says I can handle 300° and intermittent 350°. How hot does it get? Will this work?

regardedwrencher

· #13 · 2 mo ago

Mo Cruze said:
I did find a super easy option but very expensive for what it is. It's a loctite strip thread repair epoxy kit. You put a release liquid on the bolt and then fill the hole with the epoxy and screw it in remove after 5 to 10 minutes and you have new threads. They want 50$ for it.
Says it can handle 126 foot lb .
Says I can handle 300° and intermittent 350°. How hot does it get? Will this work?

use a helicoil/retap for the next size up or replace the oil cooler housing. i wouldn't play games with a oil line.

Reactions: 1

Baldrico1

· #14 · 2 mo ago

11101291 - M6x10 Multi-Purpose Bolt 2016-2019 Buick Cascada | GMPartsNow

Order Your OEM GM M6x10 Multi-Purpose Bolt (11101291) For Your 2016-2019 Buick Cascada Vehicle At AN Affordable Price With Nationwide Shipping!

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frankh

· #15 · 2 mo ago

regardedwrencher said:
use a helicoil/retap for the next size up or replace the oil cooler housing. i wouldn't play games with a oil line.

Mo Cruze said:
I know it's not the screw I just wanted to have an extra in case it vibrates out and I lose it I'll have another.
Ive never used a helicoil kit before. But I just watched a couple videos pretty simple. I'm still nervous though to do it. I don't want to somehow make it worse and then I have to replace the whole oil cooler again 😬. Also I'm not sure that a drill would fit in the engine compartment to be able to do this job without removing the oil cooler. I'll might buy the kit keep it in my car and just keep an eye on it. So far so good.

Are you 100% sure the m6 by 1.0 mm is the size I need?

You will need a right angle drill adaptor or a small drill motor as you have to drill perpendicular to the existing hole. Buying the kit and keeping it in your car will not help because this is not something you want to do on the side of the road at night. Plus if it lets go you could destroy your turbo bearings and potentially the whole engine if you didn't notice the oil line had come off.
As another poster mentioned, this is not something you want to short change.

Yes the bolt is M6X1.0. It wont vibrate out if it is torqued properly so your existing bolt should be fine assuming the threads are not damaged.

Reactions: 1

radio_davio

· #16 · 2 mo ago

How much wider would the appropriate Helicoil part make? Is there enough material to make the hole that much bigger without weakening the surrounding structure?

Reactions: 1

frankh

· #17 · 2 mo ago

radio_davio said:
How much wider would the appropriate Helicoil part make? Is there enough material to make the hole that much bigger without weakening the surrounding structure?

I just measured my M6 Helicoil tap and its 7.4mm outside diameter. In other words the 6mm threaded hole will become a 7.4mm threaded hole.

Mo Cruze

Discussion Starter · #18 · 2 mo ago

Took a pic of my old one so you can see how close the holes are..

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frankh

· #19 · 2 mo ago

There is plenty of meat there for a helicoil. Remember the larger hole will closer to the oil passage by 0.7mm.. I.e half of the 1.4 larger diameter.

I just ordered a right angle impact driver attachment for $12 from Amazon that would allow for a standard 1/4" hex driver and a 1/4 inch drill bit with a hex.

www.amazon.com

Amazon.com: CIGOTU Right Angle Drill Adaptor,4-in-1 Impact Drill Bit Extension,360° Rotatable 1/4 3/8 1/2" Impact Grade Socket Adapter Set,105 Degree Angle Screwdriver Drill Bit for Household Workplace Industry : Tools & Home Improvement

Amazon.com: CIGOTU Right Angle Drill Adaptor,4-in-1 Impact Drill Bit Extension,360° Rotatable 1/4 3/8 1/2" Impact Grade Socket Adapter Set,105 Degree Angle Screwdriver Drill Bit for Household Workplace Industry : Tools & Home Improvement

www.amazon.com

Then you will need a 1/4" drill bit to drill the old threads out.

www.harborfreight.com

Titanium Hex Shank Drill Bit Set, 13 Piece

Amazing deals on this 13Pc Titanium Hex Drill Bit Set at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

Reactions: 1

skildude

· #20 · 2 mo ago

Am I seeing an o-ring in the oil inlet? IIRC you should have 2 o-rings on the tube. I'm wondering if you are having troubles with the screw because an o-ring is preventing you from push the tube fully into its hole

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