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Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone have any clue how to remove to turbo from the cruze. Two days and its like building a warp drive without Mr.Scotty :$#angry:
 

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Turbo replacement should take a weekend for a first timer w/ a mastercrap set & alldatadiy.com
Get the turbo replacement gasket set from your local stealership.
A Mechanic should take 2 hours

Make sure you have a Torx bit set awsell, if you need more room to work on the turbo, drop front bumper and remove upper radiator mounts and it will tilt forward enough to get a full arm in.
Other then that, dont let it intimidate you, just start pulling stuff off until the turbo drops.

The 1.4 is a dream to work on in the cruze. I could change out a stock turbo faster then a Subaru WRX owner can change his spark plugs
 
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Didnt think about moving the bumper. I got the C clamp off the exhaust manifold but cant find the bolts for the turbo. Might have to drop the manifold the get it out. Thanks
Turbo replacement should take a weekend for a first timer w/ a mastercrap set & alldatadiy.com
Get the turbo replacement gasket set from your local stealership.
A Mechanic should take 2 hours

Make sure you have a Torx bit set awsell, if you need more room to work on the turbo, drop front bumper and remove upper radiator mounts and it will tilt forward enough to get a full arm in.
Other then that, dont let it intimidate you, just start pulling stuff off until the turbo drops.

The 1.4 is a dream to work on in the cruze. I could change out a stock turbo faster then a Subaru WRX owner can change his spark plugs
 

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Lol, I would highly recommend alldata at this point, best $20 you'll ever spend, print out the turbo replacement instructions.
Exhaust manifold and turbine housing is one cast unit, so yes you'll have to pull the 8 copper nuts off holding the exhaust manifold to the block.

Check list being:
Drain coolant
Pull coolant lines (Feed and return)
Pull oil lines (Feed and return)
Disconnect Boost solenoid wires
Disconnect intake hose, PCV Return
Disconnect down pipe
Bob's your uncle?!

Critical thing to check that may have caused your turbo failure.
PCV orange check valve *visible in intake, remove corrugated plastic PCV hose, look down.
If this is missing, crank case pressure will rise to a point that it will forge a relief path from the oil drain out the turbine exit, my 2nd turbo didnt make it to the 2nd oil change cause i missed that orange check valve, or the lack their of.

Does anyone else have anything they experienced that leaded to premature turbo failure?
 
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Does anyone else have anything they experienced that leaded to premature turbo failure?
Sludge in the oil feed is the other common cause. It was redesigned to be insulated in later years.
 

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If you can mechanic without breaking stuff, then remove all the hoses and pipes attached it it then it comes off pretty straight forward.

If you're n00bish, you must get the factory service information. I recommend alldatadiy.com, I do not recommend eautorepair.net however
 

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Does anyone know of a good way to get the manifold bolts off the bottom side of the exhaust manifold??? I am thinking at this point it would be wise to drop the whole exhaust system from the turbo back to the cat?
 

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GM warranty time to do it is 2.1 hours.Completely ridiculous. It takes me generally about twice that or a little better.And its no job for a novice to do.There are a number of things hard to get to.The oil drain line i generally will break right off.It sticks in the block.All the lines get replaced to.I spare GM no money when it comes to parts.Plus when i am done its right i am not going back there again for a leaking lines or something. ALSO note i am seeing a lot of cracked Turbos now
 

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Does anyone know of a good way to get the manifold bolts off the bottom side of the exhaust manifold??? I am thinking at this point it would be wise to drop the whole exhaust system from the turbo back to the cat?
I used a 1/4" socket with wobble extensions of different lengths. The DP/cat can come off if need be just be sure to get the 3 flange bolts and the hidden bolt that holds it to the bracket on the engine.
Also might help overall to remove the oil filter to try and get the oil to drain back to the pan so less comes out the feed line and port.
 

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Also might help overall to remove the oil filter to try and get the oil to drain back to the pan so less comes out the feed line and port.
No need to remove the oil filter.
The amount of oil that comes out when removing the feed line is typically very minimal.
The oil filter housing has an anti-drainback valve in it, but it doesnt appear to be highly effective on most of these engines, as I've never pulled the oil filter cap and seen it full of oil.
Just residual oil only.
Either that or it just empties to the bearing side anyway.
Doesnt seem to do any harm to the engine though...
 
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