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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
had my 14 ls since november. just popped into my head that i never used the manual key to unlock the door and decided to try it. it unlocks fine, but the horn starts honking until I press the button on the fob or put the key in the ignition. should this be happening? i cant have the alarm go off everytime i unlock the door if my batteries in my fob die. there are some settings in the DIC but i see nothing pertaining to this issue. thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
how about if i lock the door with the key. will that then not activate the alarm and give me the ability to unlock without the alarm going off? i will always use the fob and the alarm when i can. just don't want the **** alarm going off everytime i unlock the door if the fob goes dead. i leave for work at 3am and live in an apartment complex. that would make for some very unhappy neighbors.
 

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how about if i lock the door with the key. will that then not activate the alarm and give me the ability to unlock without the alarm going off?
I believe it will. But that also means your car is not protected.

You should get a warning if the battery in your fob is getting weak.
 
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If you unlock and open the door you will get five short warning beeps from the horn……this is enough time to get in and turn the key on.
Once you turn the key on, the alarm is disabled and will not sound.

Since you know the drill now, just be prepared to get in and turn the key on as quickly as possible.

I cannot speak for other manufacturers but GM products with factory alarms have operated in this manner for over ten years.

Rob
 

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If you lock the doors with the button on the dash or the plungers on the door it will not activate your alarm, so you won't have to worry about setting it off when you use your key in the door.
 

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If you lock the doors with the button on the dash or the plungers on the door it will not activate your alarm, so you won't have to worry about setting it off when you use your key in the door.
IIRC, the only way to do it that doesn't activate the alarm is to use the key to lock it. I use the plunger to lock/arm mine all the time. I confirm this by watching the red light on the dash. At least that's how it works for the driver's door. The other doors seem to behave a little differently.
 

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It doesn't set off the alarm, I use the lock button on the dash and unlock with the key every day to avoid making noise. If it did, my neighbors would tell me all about it because I leave for work at 4:30am haha
 

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I have yet to have the battery in a car key fob die on me. My wife's Solara is 7 years old and the battery is still good. My Cruze is a 2012 and the battery is still good. These batteries have a long life span.
 

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It doesn't set off the alarm, I use the lock button on the dash and unlock with the key every day to avoid making noise. If it did, my neighbors would tell me all about it because I leave for work at 4:30am haha
I know for sure that unlocking the door with the key on my 2014 Cruze LS will cause the alarm to sound. Maybe it's different for the Canadian models.


- Joe
 

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It doesn't set off the alarm, I use the lock button on the dash and unlock with the key every day to avoid making noise. If it did, my neighbors would tell me all about it because I leave for work at 4:30am haha
Maybe it's different for a 2011, but the 2014 Owners manual says the only way to lock the car and not set the alarm is to use the key. It's on page 2-16.
 

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Maybe it's different for a 2011, but the 2014 Owners manual says the only way to lock the car and not set the alarm is to use the key. It's on page 2-16.
LOL that list of what different years of the Cruze is capable of just keeps getting bigger. Maybe it's a regional thing like 1LT hubcaps and LTZ wheels on RS package.
 

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Warning I got with my remote when the battery was bad is it didn't work. The original one had no brand name on it and was made in India. Hardly lasted a year, but put in a Duracell, still good after close to three years now.

Its a good idea to try your key every now and then. 04 Cavalier had remote entry, was at a lake and accidentally dropped my remote in the water, good thing it floats. But it didn't work, tried the drivers door, frozen solid, any more force would have broken the key. Same thing with the passenger door, also frozen. But the trunk did work, could drop the rear seats from the trunk, was a darn tight fit, but was able to crawl up and unlock a door.

Now if this happened with the Cruze, would have been dead meat. Also leave my cell phone in the car, they don't like water.

Next day, I removed the door panels, not bad, used screws, removed the locks, brass tumblers were green and really stuck, cleaned and lubricated them. Then the passenger side door and the trunk as well, was kind of sticky.

Trying to be optimistic that is getting hard to do, least with the Cruze, only have one lock to clean and where is that plastic pry bar?
 

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After reading this, tried my key, was a bit sticky in the lock. Sprayed in some Liquid Wrench, forget about WD-40, works a lot nicer now. And the alarm does not sound if you lock and unlock with the key. But sure does if you lock with the remote and unlock with the key.

If you hit that tempered glass with an ice pick, will shatter it into a million pieces, and the alarm will not go off.
 

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If you hit that tempered glass with an ice pick, will shatter it into a million pieces, and the alarm will not go off.
No sensor for it. It looks like the UK version gets an ultrasonic sensor to protect the interior.
 

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My buttons fell out of my fob. I could stuck my pinky in the holes to lock, unlock and open the trunk. Recently, the buttons started acting up. Push to open the trunk, the horn would honk; push the lock button, it would lock, and then immediately unlock; then the horn would just start honking when it was locked, and I would have to go out and open with the key and turn the key to on to get it to stop. Now, I lock it with the key, and 10-20 minutes later, the horn alarm goes off, and I go to the car and it has unlocked itself and set the alarm off. Now, I don't lock it, have the key laying on the counter in the house, and several times a day the alarm sounds, for about 5 or 6 seconds, then stops. I replaced the battery in the fob. I called the dealership when the buttons starting falling out, and they said not their problem, ther is no recall or TSB on the key fob with the flip key for the 2013 Cruze LT. I can't go anywhere without the alarm randomly going off or the car unlocking itself and setting the alarm off. I inquired about new key fobs, (I only have one) and the dealership wanted almost $500 for two key fobs that fell apart. $150 each for programing, plus the cost of the fob, and then more to have the key cut. Any suggestions? Buying a fob from Amazon is cheaper, but the dealership told me they won't program keys that are not purchased through them. This car is the only thing I have left, and why I only have one key, after losing everything in the Camp Fire in my hometown of Paradise, California. I would have thought they would do the right thing and give me a break on a new key fob!
287152
 

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2014 LT program car, Pull Me Over Red
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Welcome Aboard!(y)

Sorry about your loss.

You could do a few things:

Buy one of these and then swap the board and swap out the cut blade for an uncut one. Use XR's tutorial for that. (I did not veriy that the fobs match yours in particular, but these same sellers will probably have the others as well.)

New Uncut 5 Button 433MHz With ID46 Chip Remote Control Key Fob for Chevrolet Cruze 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 Read the fine print in this ad before buying: 2010- 2014 Cruze (Models WITHOUT Proximity Entry & WITHOUT Remote Start) - even though the remote has five buttons.

3 Buttons Replacement Remote Car Key Fob ID46 315mhz Fit For Chevrolet Cruze 2010-2015 Replacement Refit Car Key

Car Key Blank Uncut Blade For Chevrolet Cruze Buick Excelle Regal Lacrosse Remote Key (71#)

This one might be the correct one, just email the seller to get confirmation before buying. That way if it doesn't work, you can get a refund (or partial) without returning it.

5 Button New Replacement Flip Key Folding Remote Key Fob for Chevrolet Equinox Cruze 433MHz Uncut Blade

or do like I did and bought one of these and had the dealer cut it. Cost me $200 and change for the cut.

Brand New Uncut High Security Laser Sidemill Transponder Chip Key fits GM (Fits: Camaro)

Then you need to program the new key to the car:

You can use the old fob. Get in the car, close the doors, put the old, programmed fob in the ignition and turn it to on for a second then then off again. Remove the old key. Within 10 seconds, put the new fob in the ignition and turn it to on then off again. It should now be programmed. This will not unlearn any old fobs. You can have up to 8 keys programmed to the car.You can also program a new key without an old key. It takes 30 minutes. No old key fobs can be near the car when you do this, and the old key fobs will no longer work. To do it, get in the car, close the door, put the new key in the ignition and turn it to on (without starting the car). Let it sit for 10 minutes until the security light turns off. Turn the ignition to off and wait 5 seconds. Repeat this procedure two more times (total of 3 cycles). Remove the key. Start the car with the new key. The new key should be programmed and all old keys will no longer work. You can now add additional new keys using the first procedure.

Or go to a hardware store/lockshop and purchase an aftermarket setup.
 

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Welcome Aboard!(y)

Sorry about your loss.

You could do a few things:

Buy one of these and then swap the board and swap out the cut blade for an uncut one. Use XR's tutorial for that. (I did not veriy that the fobs match yours in particular, but these same sellers will probably have the others as well.)

New Uncut 5 Button 433MHz With ID46 Chip Remote Control Key Fob for Chevrolet Cruze 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 Read the fine print in this ad before buying: 2010- 2014 Cruze (Models WITHOUT Proximity Entry & WITHOUT Remote Start) - even though the remote has five buttons.

3 Buttons Replacement Remote Car Key Fob ID46 315mhz Fit For Chevrolet Cruze 2010-2015 Replacement Refit Car Key

Car Key Blank Uncut Blade For Chevrolet Cruze Buick Excelle Regal Lacrosse Remote Key (71#)

This one might be the correct one, just email the seller to get confirmation before buying. That way if it doesn't work, you can get a refund (or partial) without returning it.

5 Button New Replacement Flip Key Folding Remote Key Fob for Chevrolet Equinox Cruze 433MHz Uncut Blade

or do like I did and bought one of these and had the dealer cut it. Cost me $200 and change for the cut.

Brand New Uncut High Security Laser Sidemill Transponder Chip Key fits GM (Fits: Camaro)

Then you need to program the new key to the car:

You can use the old fob. Get in the car, close the doors, put the old, programmed fob in the ignition and turn it to on for a second then then off again. Remove the old key. Within 10 seconds, put the new fob in the ignition and turn it to on then off again. It should now be programmed. This will not unlearn any old fobs. You can have up to 8 keys programmed to the car.You can also program a new key without an old key. It takes 30 minutes. No old key fobs can be near the car when you do this, and the old key fobs will no longer work. To do it, get in the car, close the door, put the new key in the ignition and turn it to on (without starting the car). Let it sit for 10 minutes until the security light turns off. Turn the ignition to off and wait 5 seconds. Repeat this procedure two more times (total of 3 cycles). Remove the key. Start the car with the new key. The new key should be programmed and all old keys will no longer work. You can now add additional new keys using the first procedure.

Or go to a hardware store/lockshop and purchase an aftermarket setup.
I knew I could count on CruzeTalk to help me out. Thank you. I will order key fobs and do what you suggested and let you know which fix worked for me.
My Cruze did have the 'possessed' electrical problems a couple years back. It was the recall with the negative battery cable problem. Got that taken care of and all was good until the possessed key fob came into play.
I forgot one other problem with the TPMS. My dash light for low tire pressure came on, and indicated that my driver front tire was at 26 psi. I stopped at a station for air (you know how those air gauges work, or don't work, if they even give you air!) and put about 10 lbs in to get it home where I could check the air pressure correctly. When I got in the car, the air pressure in the front tire still read 26 and the back driver tire read 48. Every time now it says the front is low, I put air in the back, and it brings the front reading up. I can put the correct air pressure in my own tires, but does this need to be looked at or is there a fix for the TPMS? Thanks, again. Rebecca
 

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I knew I could count on CruzeTalk to help me out. Thank you. I will order key fobs and do what you suggested and let you know which fix worked for me.
My Cruze did have the 'possessed' electrical problems a couple years back. It was the recall with the negative battery cable problem. Got that taken care of and all was good until the possessed key fob came into play.
I forgot one other problem with the TPMS. My dash light for low tire pressure came on, and indicated that my driver front tire was at 26 psi. I stopped at a station for air (you know how those air gauges work, or don't work, if they even give you air!) and put about 10 lbs in to get it home where I could check the air pressure correctly. When I got in the car, the air pressure in the front tire still read 26 and the back driver tire read 48. Every time now it says the front is low, I put air in the back, and it brings the front reading up. I can put the correct air pressure in my own tires, but does this need to be looked at or is there a fix for the TPMS? Thanks, again. Rebecca
I just got what your handle means...ROFL. I will try and get an answer for the TPMS tomorrow, gotta go.
 

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2014 LT program car, Pull Me Over Red
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My dash light for low tire pressure came on, and indicated that my driver front tire was at 26 psi. I stopped at a station for air (you know how those air gauges work, or don't work, if they even give you air!) and put about 10 lbs in to get it home where I could check the air pressure correctly. When I got in the car, the air pressure in the front tire still read 26 and the back driver tire read 48. Every time now it says the front is low, I put air in the back, and it brings the front reading up. I can put the correct air pressure in my own tires, but does this need to be looked at or is there a fix for the TPMS? Thanks, again. Rebecca
After reading your post with a fresh mind, it looks like whoever installed your tires last did not correctly match the tires to the system. Take it back and have then=m relearn the tire positions.
 
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