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This is a little DIY I made for upgrading your battery ground. I have read and heard that the Cruze ground system is not that good. So I upgraded it. This should help with upgraded sound systems, HID's, Ignition Coil (spark blow out), battery charging and more. It is very simple and only cost me about $25. I got lost of pictures and if you have questions just ask!



First I gathered the parts...I got a 4awg ground distribution block from Best Buy for $10. I liked this because it looks clean and can be added to later if needed. Than from the auto parts store of your choice I got 4awg Ground cable 49" long and last 2 (made in china) 4awg eyelets. $15.

20130214_131001.jpg


Now I cut the cable in half and stripped off 1/2" to 3/4" of insulation off both ends of the now cut in half cable. Yes I did not use the factory eyelets that came on the cable. I liked the China one's better.
20130214_131352.jpg


Now I did a test fit to make sure I took enough insulation off to fit the eyelets.
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Now using soldier and a small torch. I heated up the eyelet filling it with lots of soldier and stuck the cable down into the hot soldier. Hold it there for about a minute so the soldier will set. Be careful its HOT. Do this to the second cable as well.
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Now use shrink tube to finish off the cable and eyelet for a clean and water tight fit.
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It should look like this and again do the same thing to the second cable!
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Now take the other end of the 2 cables and insert them into the ground block. Tighten them down and they should look like this!
20130214_133524.jpg



Now with everything connected and cool to the touch, let's check the resistance. .0 to .3 will work.
20130214_133725.jpg


On the car now i drilled to small 3/16" holes just to the right of the hood latch on the engine side. I then tapped them out using a 6m x 1.0 tap. I like this location because it's not to easy to see...all but looks stock!
20130214_171201.jpg



I installed the block and tighten the bolts to about 89"lbs...Not to tight!!! When done it should look like this.
20130214_171747.jpg





 

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Discussion Starter #2
This setup is a 3 point ground system. 1 Battery, 2 Frame and 3 Engine. I connected the one cable end to the battery ground like this.

20130214_173027.jpg


And last connection to the engine just behind the intake to the turbo!

20130214_173037.jpg



When done it should look like this. Just about looks stock

20130214_173055.jpg
 

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Nice job! I have upgraded the grounding for my Cruze too.
 

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noob question, those two new grounds you ahve , where are they going?
 

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Everything looks good. I will be doing this when I upgrade my headlight harness. One question, would the bolt just below the oil fill cap work better so the wire isn't draped over the motor?


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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This extra grounding thing has been the biggest placebo thing over the past 15 years. The whole body is a ground and doesn't take much grounding. Extra grounding will not do anything for performance. Coil performance is dictated by the the amount of coiling (and capacity of said coil before fireing) and electronics. Grounding has zero effect on plug performance. What counts is the quality of the ground, not more of it.
 

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Everything looks good. I will be doing this when I upgrade my headlight harness. One question, would the bolt just below the oil fill cap work better so the wire isn't draped over the motor?


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
that would be fine. you can go with any length wire you want to find a better place to attach it. You can even use different color wire. Some like to use the amp wire left over from installing an amp cause of the cool blue or red they use in the kits. what ever works for you!
 

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This extra grounding thing has been the biggest placebo thing over the past 15 years. The whole body is a ground and doesn't take much grounding. Extra grounding will not do anything for performance. Coil performance is dictated by the the amount of coiling (and capacity of said coil before fireing) and electronics. Grounding has zero effect on plug performance. What counts is the quality of the ground, not more of it.
Ground Game
Electrical grounding kits like HKS' Circle Earth kit are a bit of a mystery, but they needn't be. Simply imagine your car's grounding system, and then improve upon it by adding several more grounding points. The results decrease electrical noise and can even smooth out an older car's idle and produce more power through a stronger spark.

this DIY cost only $25...HKS is $150.
 

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this is a totally different car then the cruze but we did a baseline on a 350Z equipped only with the Blitz intake(which IMO makes an ants d*ck worth of difference anyway).
Baseline was 238.2 RWHP and 228.6 lb ft of torque. we added only the Hyper ground wires and saw 242 and 231 respectfully.
I know the difference is small and is even within an allowable margin for error but it seems to me for $25 the grounding kit is good for a few ponies!! we also noticed a better throttle responce and smoother idle!
after setting up a bet with my co-worker we disconnected the ground kit and found we were back to 238.6 and 229. reconnected it and got 242.1 and 230.9. and i made $50 hahaha
 

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This extra grounding thing has been the biggest placebo thing over the past 15 years. The whole body is a ground and doesn't take much grounding. Extra grounding will not do anything for performance. Coil performance is dictated by the the amount of coiling (and capacity of said coil before fireing) and electronics. Grounding has zero effect on plug performance. What counts is the quality of the ground, not more of it.
I wouldn't be so sure it's a placebo. If you've ever tried to jump a car by putting the negative jumper clamp on the frame of the working car you'll discover it's much harder to do than if you put the negative jumper clamp on the battery directly. This is because that while the entire car is "ground" level there is a lot of resistance between the various parts of the car and the battery's negative pole. Electrically this means the car itself isn't at true ground, just near enough to it for most purposes.
 

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It's not a placebo exactly. Certain problems can arise with too much resistance in the frame. For example, in my camaro, running a ground to the engine, frame (front) and frame (back) helped the fuel pump because the stock wires were too thin gauge and the frame had too much resistance.

Similar problem in my SRT-4, you upgrade the fuel pump wiring to swap out the 16awg for a 10awg because it can't get enough juice on the top end to spin the pump and deliver the required fuel, especially for modded and tuned cars.

When it comes to serious alternator killing amps, you need the power and can't rely on it coming to through the frame. You could wind up eating $$ on a new amp.

Even so, $25 for this mod is nothing compared to potential benefits.

Great write up BTW. Much better job than I would have done for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
It's not a placebo exactly. Certain problems can arise with too much resistance in the frame. For example, in my camaro, running a ground to the engine, frame (front) and frame (back) helped the fuel pump because the stock wires were too thin gauge and the frame had too much resistance.

Similar problem in my SRT-4, you upgrade the fuel pump wiring to swap out the 16awg for a 10awg because it can't get enough juice on the top end to spin the pump and deliver the required fuel, especially for modded and tuned cars.

When it comes to serious alternator killing amps, you need the power and can't rely on it coming to through the frame. You could wind up eating $$ on a new amp.

Even so, $25 for this mod is nothing compared to potential benefits.

Great write up BTW. Much better job than I would have done for sure.

Thank you titan2782. I respect your comments.
 

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Very cool man.look what you accomplished with a little thought and enginuaty , upgrading the ground straps
can and does improve the flow of electrons to a given load... good advice ..
 

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I'm going to be the first to agree with David1 in that this will have negligible effects, and usually doing something like this is a mask for other possible problems. I do commend you on the write up and good picture taking, though.

smorey78 said:
this is a totally different car then the cruze but we did a baseline on a 350Z equipped only with the Blitz intake(which IMO makes an ants d*ck worth of difference anyway).
Baseline was 238.2 RWHP and 228.6 lb ft of torque. we added only the Hyper ground wires and saw 242 and 231 respectfully.
I know the difference is small and is even within an allowable margin for error but it seems to me for $25 the grounding kit is good for a few ponies!! we also noticed a better throttle responce and smoother idle!
after setting up a bet with my co-worker we disconnected the ground kit and found we were back to 238.6 and 229. reconnected it and got 242.1 and 230.9. and i made $50 hahaha
Was this all in the same day, under the same conditions, with the same driver, same engine temperature, etc? Something as small as 0.5*F and/or 2% humidity change is enough to cause a 4 HP/TQ difference.

titan2782 said:
It's not a placebo exactly. Certain problems can arise with too much resistance in the frame. For example, in my camaro, running a ground to the engine, frame (front) and frame (back) helped the fuel pump because the stock wires were too thin gauge and the frame had too much resistance.
Your Camaro is also 25 years old. The metal frame has had time to rust, change properties, corrode, etcetera. I will agree with the small gauge wire, though, but that is also something most cars have in common.

obermd said:
I wouldn't be so sure it's a placebo. If you've ever tried to jump a car by putting the negative jumper clamp on the frame of the working car you'll discover it's much harder to do than if you put the negative jumper clamp on the battery directly. This is because that while the entire car is "ground" level there is a lot of resistance between the various parts of the car and the battery's negative pole. Electrically this means the car itself isn't at true ground, just near enough to it for most purposes.
I would argue that a battery has a better conducting connection than any part of the frame (not to mention the frame does not always lead straight back to the battery), and has little to do with the frame not actually being at ground.

Personally, if I have an electrical problem with my car I start my checking for corrosion on all grounds. If they all check out I look at any electrical components that may be drawing inappropriate amounts of power. If you have a grounding problem on a new car, the first solution should not be to add more grounding points, let alone do so without checking if more ground points are necessary for your application. Also, just my opinion, but 4awg is overkill. A truly good grounding set up would be a car that runs all ground points back to the same spot, not adding more in different places.

These are all just my opinions, so take with a grain of salt.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
we ran the car 7 times 4 in the morning and 3 after lunch. temp out side was 39*in the am and 52 with lots of sun after lunch. But the dyno is inside the shop and is 65* all day inside.
 

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I'm sorry but 4 hp difference is nothing. Cleaning the grounds surface and where they connect would have done the same. I have been dealing with vehicle electrical systems for yrs. I will agree that some of the grounding wires/cables should be at least one size larger than they are. That is more for corrosion. If a cable has a small amount of corrosion on it, it won't affect its ability to do its job immediately.
I did this to mine and the the wife's Equinox when we bought them. There is paint on the grounding lugs. Then coat the area with grease to prevent corrosion.
 

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Started on my BIG Three Upgrade

These are KnuKonceptz Kolossus Flex 4 gauge power wire.
Used copper terminals which i soldered to the wires.
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If you are considering using the same cable def go to a 2gauge copper terminal you can see where i used 2 gauge and where i used 4 gauge terminals. 2 gauge terms are much cleaner. the thread count of these cable are extremely high so its a lil difficult to get it in the 4 gauge because they spread out.

i still need to do the alternator to the Pos term but the wire is in route prob be in by Monday or Tuesday.
 

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Sorry, forgot to tell you Terry. KNU wire is oversized. Their CCA wire is actually so far oversized that it doesn't fit into standard AWG fittings without trimming some of the wire off. Just another reason why I love KNU wire; it's very high quality and instead of going under the AWG spec like many companies do, they go over the spec.

For anyone considering this in the future, here are the terminals you should use:

The Install Bay CUR2516 2 Gauge AWG 5 16" Copper Ring Terminal 10 Pack | eBay

Cut some strips of electrical solder, place them inside the terminal, press part of a wire in with ~3/8" of the jacket stripped, heat the terminal with a torch, and slide the wire all the way through. The more solder, the better. Slide the wire in until the terminal melts the jacket, and you'll have a great seal and an excellent connection that won't loosen up or cause the wire to corrode like an open crimp terminal will.
 

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Alright here is the last one.
Got the cables in today(bought them on Thursday . best part of this in stall is that it doesnt require you to go under the car. everything can be done from the hood.
The Alternator Cable can be cut at 4ft long which still has plenty of slack.​
IMG_2513.jpg

Cut back enough of the insulation so that the wire just barely touches the beginning of the 45* section.
You will need to leave enough so that the rubber can slide in and melt to the copper terminal. this creates a seal.
IMG_2516.jpg
The wire so that it makes installation easier.
IMG_2517.jpg
Cut enough pieces to fill the bottom (5) of the terminal, they should just barely extend past the top.​
IMG_2514.jpg

Use pliers to hold the terminal, the flat 45* angled section is where you want to put the flame.
This works the fastest.
IMG_2515.jpg
Solder melted
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Just twist the cable inside and pushas hard as you can. then hold for 20 seconds or so.
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Do the same to the other side and you done!
IMG_2520.jpg
8Ft of cable should be all that you need to do this install.
2ft
2ft
4ft​
 
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