I'd love to hear it if you wouldn't mind posting a video. Been having something similar happen for months and it will randomly start knocking to the point it trips the sensor and CEL comes on power loss. Literally picked it up from the dealer today (5th trip for same issue ) and was told it was carbon build up car has 75k on it ...upper engine was cleaned again Within 15 minutes the knocking returned. I get the feeling the dealer doesn't want to deal with it because Its still under warranty.
Valve noise with P0324-25 knock codes- lifter change fix?
Hello,
I check in here often, but haven't posted often as my 2011 Eco has been largely trouble free, until yesterday. (76K miles, Mobile 1 oil and Wix filters from day 1, top tier premium fuel in tank)
Looking for others who may have experienced this, and see if new lifters are worth the effort.
The little 1.4 turbo sounds like an old VW Rabbit diesel I drove years ago, not normal sounds.
Its valve noise, and everything points to the hydraulic lash adjusters / lifters.
As I was returning to California from Arizona, 110 degrees ambient, 75 MPH, coolant temp 206 deg-f on torque app, it started losing power while climbing a grade. I could feel the timing retarding, and saw it on the torque app on my phone. Like I said, the coolant temp was stable, and it was building good boost at higher RPM's.
We limped on home thank God, it has little power. Today, I fired it up, what a racket it made, then it quieted a bit, classic collapsed lifter sounds.
The stethoscope points me to several bad lifters, chain sounds good. So, I pulled the valve cover, the little top chain guide is tight, plugs are tight, but several lifters are loose to the touch. I checked oil pressure, its good at 38 psi at 700 RPM idle, and 72 psi at 3000 RPM.
I fully believe the knocking lifters are causing the knock sensor to reign in the timing.
Looking at purchasing the special took kit, and various parts and replacing lifters myself.
Anybody have success with this fixing this, or had similar problems?
Quite disappointed with Chevy, 76,000 miles is nothing, this shouldn't be happening at this mileage, especially with the care its had. Not likely to be a customer again.
I check in here often, but haven't posted often as my 2011 Eco has been largely trouble free, until yesterday. (76K miles, Mobile 1 oil and Wix filters from day 1, top tier premium fuel in tank)
Looking for others who may have experienced this, and see if new lifters are worth the effort.
The little 1.4 turbo sounds like an old VW Rabbit diesel I drove years ago, not normal sounds.
Its valve noise, and everything points to the hydraulic lash adjusters / lifters.
As I was returning to California from Arizona, 110 degrees ambient, 75 MPH, coolant temp 206 deg-f on torque app, it started losing power while climbing a grade. I could feel the timing retarding, and saw it on the torque app on my phone. Like I said, the coolant temp was stable, and it was building good boost at higher RPM's.
We limped on home thank God, it has little power. Today, I fired it up, what a racket it made, then it quieted a bit, classic collapsed lifter sounds.
The stethoscope points me to several bad lifters, chain sounds good. So, I pulled the valve cover, the little top chain guide is tight, plugs are tight, but several lifters are loose to the touch. I checked oil pressure, its good at 38 psi at 700 RPM idle, and 72 psi at 3000 RPM.
I fully believe the knocking lifters are causing the knock sensor to reign in the timing.
Looking at purchasing the special took kit, and various parts and replacing lifters myself.
Anybody have success with this fixing this, or had similar problems?
Quite disappointed with Chevy, 76,000 miles is nothing, this shouldn't be happening at this mileage, especially with the care its had. Not likely to be a customer again.
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I'll get some video tomorrow afternoon.
It may be hard to tell from a video what normal would sound like, and what is abnormal. Mine came on rather quickly, no sounds or codes before.
I should be doing the work next Thursday or Friday, I'll let you all know what I find that may have caused it or if its just defective lifters. The dealer used silicon on the turbo return line O-rings, I am wondering if an oil restricting orifice is blocked in the head.
Ive not had good experiences at the dealer, wont be going back. The old saying...Lie to me once, shame on you. Lie to me twice, shame on me.
It may be hard to tell from a video what normal would sound like, and what is abnormal. Mine came on rather quickly, no sounds or codes before.
I should be doing the work next Thursday or Friday, I'll let you all know what I find that may have caused it or if its just defective lifters. The dealer used silicon on the turbo return line O-rings, I am wondering if an oil restricting orifice is blocked in the head.
Ive not had good experiences at the dealer, wont be going back. The old saying...Lie to me once, shame on you. Lie to me twice, shame on me.
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152 Posts
Mine has made that noise a few times. A couple of time when first starting it and another time when it was overheating a little at the end of the oil life. Also had reduced power that last time. I got home and changed the oil that night and it was fine after that. For a couple months anyway.
Try changing your oil. Maybe the heat degraded it.
Good luck.
Try changing your oil. Maybe the heat degraded it.
Good luck.
Thought I'd give a follow up report. What I found was a wad of silicon sealer inside the sprocket end of the intake cam, and inside the related bolt. Also, 6, out of the 8, intake lash adjusters were collapsed.
I couldn't see any silicon in the intake variable valve timing sprocket, nor did any come out when I blew the oil galleys out. It fired up first try, and runs better than it has in some time.
I strongly suspect this is from the hack job the dealer did on the turbo oil return line replacement, they used silicon on the O-rings where it connects to the oil filter housing. O-rings should never need silicon to seal, the dealer told me it was standard practice when I pointed it out. Just 1 of the reasons I wont be going back, nor recommending them.
To top it all off, the water pump gave out was I pulled in from the test drive. Just finished up the pump change out, not too bad, but not what I really wanted to do on a Sunday.
FYI if anybody is doing this,
* The cam R&R / lifter job took about 5 hours. Don't hurry this one, there is a lot going on inside there, and the the order of the steps is critical in some spots.
* The water pump took 3 hrs.
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I couldn't see any silicon in the intake variable valve timing sprocket, nor did any come out when I blew the oil galleys out. It fired up first try, and runs better than it has in some time.
I strongly suspect this is from the hack job the dealer did on the turbo oil return line replacement, they used silicon on the O-rings where it connects to the oil filter housing. O-rings should never need silicon to seal, the dealer told me it was standard practice when I pointed it out. Just 1 of the reasons I wont be going back, nor recommending them.
To top it all off, the water pump gave out was I pulled in from the test drive. Just finished up the pump change out, not too bad, but not what I really wanted to do on a Sunday.
FYI if anybody is doing this,
* The cam R&R / lifter job took about 5 hours. Don't hurry this one, there is a lot going on inside there, and the the order of the steps is critical in some spots.
* The water pump took 3 hrs.
@Rosstude not sure if you are still hanging around this forum but very happy I found this post. I suspect a similar problem is going on with my wife's Cruze, which I reported here 2013 1.4L intermittent P0324, loud ticking, low power. Only 64k miles, totally agree with your assessment about extreme disappointment with Chevy's quality.
Valve medic mitigated the problem temporarily, and the car ran great for a week or two after an oil change. Unfortunately the problem is back and worse than ever, I'm thinking I'll try one more round of valve medic plus an oil change before going nuclear. I do wonder if the seal around the leaking water outlet valve I replaced broke down and ended up somewhere it shouldn't have...
Reading your post this sounds like a serious undertaking, I'm handy but definitely inexperienced when it comes to engine work. So my question was this - how obvious was the problem once you pulled the valve cover off? Would I be crazy to try this without help?
Small edit: 2nd treatment of valve medic has quieted the problem. Replaced the battery right after (needed a jump this weekend, 6-7 years old... it's time) and there's no CEL... hoping it lasts longer this time...
Valve medic mitigated the problem temporarily, and the car ran great for a week or two after an oil change. Unfortunately the problem is back and worse than ever, I'm thinking I'll try one more round of valve medic plus an oil change before going nuclear. I do wonder if the seal around the leaking water outlet valve I replaced broke down and ended up somewhere it shouldn't have...
Reading your post this sounds like a serious undertaking, I'm handy but definitely inexperienced when it comes to engine work. So my question was this - how obvious was the problem once you pulled the valve cover off? Would I be crazy to try this without help?
Small edit: 2nd treatment of valve medic has quieted the problem. Replaced the battery right after (needed a jump this weekend, 6-7 years old... it's time) and there's no CEL... hoping it lasts longer this time...
I still check in here from time to time. The Cruze it still with me, now about 116,000 miles. No troubles with lifters, or related repairs. But, another water pump last week, went OEM this time.
That job is not an easy one. There are many steps, and many components to remove and replace. Its a challenging job.
I do like the car, its the dealer I wasn't happy with.
I hope the additive works.
That job is not an easy one. There are many steps, and many components to remove and replace. Its a challenging job.
I do like the car, its the dealer I wasn't happy with.
I hope the additive works.
Thanks for the input - I will probably not attempt this myself without some guidance or paying a pro. Or I'll end up selling the car and buying a different one because I'm tired of hearing about it from the wife!
It's strange, the "knock" has come and gone, along with the CEL, in the 30 days since my last post - with no discernable pattern. I had a theory at one point about parking on a slope causing more problems, but not sure that makes any sense or I have enough data yet...
It's strange, the "knock" has come and gone, along with the CEL, in the 30 days since my last post - with no discernable pattern. I had a theory at one point about parking on a slope causing more problems, but not sure that makes any sense or I have enough data yet...
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