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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,

I believe posting in this section would be better option due to different issues otherwise I can post in different sections.

The issues is on my girlfriend's car(2014 LTZ RS package). She also has a sister that has the exact same car except different color, same dealership , new, and same time purchase. Her sister's car has none of the issues. We have taken my girlfriend's car to three different dealership, they said something along the line: it is normal, I do not feel vibration/shake, It's normal, etc. I do not remember the miles we started taking her car to the dealership, it was less then 10,000 miles.

1. At a red-light stop, the car would vibrate/shake a good bit. Best way I can describe it is when the RPM is low but not too low. The RPM does not move and stays at 900. I have tried turning off the A/C as some people suggested on the forum to others if that is the case and it happens only in 'D' not even in sports shift mode.

2. The car's backup camera display is terrible comparing to her sister's car. It is day and night. One dealership did agree to replace it, it is slightly better(seems to getting worst again), however it is no where near the display of her sister's car.

3. I do not know if her sister's car has this scenario. We would be going down back roads and sometimes we can smell the skunk coming through the vents. Also, sometimes car exhaust(older cars or cars have exhaust issues). The recirculation light is on. I know vehicles are not 100% airtight, however it smells like the outside air is coming in. I do not know if the intake actuator is stuck open partially or not.

Anyone that has suggestions to troubleshoot the issues.

Thank You
 

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Ha, first time my son rode with me at a traffic light, said, dad, your engine died. No it didn't, so much for this being normal. Usual stupid remark is dey all do dis. Sure sounds like a misfire, those spark plug springs tend to get stuck in that stupid shoulder in the boot creating a large gap.

I wanted to add anti-seize to the spark plug threads so I could get them out when the time came, saw a spring hung up in a shoulder, stretched those springs out. Don't give a darn what others say on this board, I hate needle point NGK plugs, replaced them with Autolite APP3923's, need that meat to carry away the heat. A Bosch copy for the NGK's, also a bad plug based on the weak theory a needle point retains a sharper edge. Gaped them all a 26 mils, also used dielectric grease inside the boots, these will bake on. 1.4 L runs real nice.

Bumped the gasket in front of the fresh air intake, it fell off, used some silicone glue with a spot every five inches, and still get it off, but at least in won't fall off.

Is the camera lens dirty? That flat space in the rear of the trunk creates a vacuum and on my Cruze, the dirtiest part of the car. But only the first step.

GM is sure pushing dealerships to remodel. Someone should do a survey on this issue, the fancier the dealership, the worse the service. Three GM dealerships in town use to be good, now they are terrible after spending all that money to remodel. Their property taxes also skyrocketed.

Hear stupid statements like your brake pedal going to the floor is not a problem, we ain't getting any codes. Maybe to pay for all the expensive remodeling had to hire idiots to run the place.
 

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Engine shake at idle points to a vacuum leak somewhere.
 

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Ha, sure was this way with GM CMFI, upper intake manifold leak would shake your butt off. Also said it was economical, dealer wanted 750 bucks for the piece of plastic they called a combination regulator and injector with plastic straws to each cylinder intake.

With most FI vehicles using sequential injection, idle speed increases with a vacuum leak that is exactly what the TB does, lets in more air.
 

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Engine shake at idle points to a vacuum leak somewhere.
Or a broken engine mount. Regardless, contact the Chevy Customer Care account here about your issues. You're correct that this car isn't working properly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I wanted to add anti-seize to the spark plug threads so I could get them out when the time came, saw a spring hung up in a shoulder, stretched those springs out. Don't give a darn what others say on this board, I hate needle point NGK plugs, replaced them with Autolite APP3923's, need that meat to carry away the heat. A Bosch copy for the NGK's, also a bad plug based on the weak theory a needle point retains a sharper edge. Gaped them all a 26 mils, also used dielectric grease inside the boots, these will bake on. 1.4 L runs real nice.
I thought about regapping the spark plugs and/or trying a difference brand name. I did not think of the spark plug boots would cause any issue until now.

Is the camera lens dirty? That flat space in the rear of the trunk creates a vacuum and on my Cruze, the dirtiest part of the car. But only the first step.
I wish is that simple. We are thinking about just installing an aftermarket backup camera system, although we do not want another display screen on top the dash. At night is almost useless. I will try post a picture of the backup camera at night. I know many settings will differ the image, though be a general idea what it looks like.

Or a broken engine mount. Regardless, contact the Chevy Customer Care account here about your issues. You're correct that this car isn't working properly.
I took a quick a look and seems fine. Hard to judge without taking the mount off.


I guess we will bug the dealership to do a vacuum leak test as other has mentioned. No clue if they will do the test since the vibration is normal or mechanic does not feel it.
 

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1. At a red-light stop, the car would vibrate/shake a good bit. Best way I can describe it is when the RPM is low but not too low. The RPM does not move and stays at 900. I have tried turning off the A/C as some people suggested on the forum to others if that is the case and it happens only in 'D' not even in sports shift mode.
The fact it stops in sport mode makes me think it's a transmission problem. Probably not shifting into neutral properly.



2. The car's backup camera display is terrible comparing to her sister's car. It is day and night. One dealership did agree to replace it, it is slightly better(seems to getting worst again), however it is no where near the display of her sister's car.
Bad in what way? Mine isn't great. It's a cheap camera and not photographic quality, but it's adequate to see what's behind you.



3. I do not know if her sister's car has this scenario. We would be going down back roads and sometimes we can smell the skunk coming through the vents. Also, sometimes car exhaust(older cars or cars have exhaust issues). The recirculation light is on. I know vehicles are not 100% airtight, however it smells like the outside air is coming in. I do not know if the intake actuator is stuck open partially or not.
Reciculate will not block out all outside air. But you might want to pull the air cleaner for the cabin to make sure there isn't a pile of leaf litter on it and then do a HVAC Computer reset.
 

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Beg, borrow or steal a vacuum gauge from somewhere. It is a Swiss Army knife of diagnostic tools and usually dirt cheap. Remove the vacuum supply from your brake booster and connect the vacuum gauge to it. Start the car and watch the readings from idle, acceleration to deceleration.

Plus you can use the same vacuum gauge to compare suction performance. Want to watch a door-to-door vacuum salesman pee his pants? Whip out your vacuum gauge and see just how much it sucks. BTW in case you're wondering, I have an old-style Electrolux central with a K&N on its exhaust and a Miele canister.
 

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Also thought about the AT not shifting into neutral in drive at idle, but if you shift into neutral, that vibration should go away.

Ha, a heck of a lot easier to be there, can tall a lot how an engine is running by the odor, sound, and feel of the exhaust.

Usually the first questions asked is, are you getting any codes?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The fact it stops in sport mode makes me think it's a transmission problem. Probably not shifting into neutral properly.

Bad in what way? Mine isn't great. It's a cheap camera and not photographic quality, but it's adequate to see what's behind you.

Reciculate will not block out all outside air. But you might want to pull the air cleaner for the cabin to make sure there isn't a pile of leaf litter on it and then do a HVAC Computer reset.
I know it is not suppose to be photographic quality. This camera quality is not adequate to see behind at night, good thing we grew up using mirrors. I will check the cabin air filter for blockage.

Beg, borrow or steal a vacuum gauge from somewhere. It is a Swiss Army knife of diagnostic tools and usually dirt cheap. Remove the vacuum supply from your brake booster and connect the vacuum gauge to it. Start the car and watch the readings from idle, acceleration to deceleration.

Plus you can use the same vacuum gauge to compare suction performance. Want to watch a door-to-door vacuum salesman pee his pants? Whip out your vacuum gauge and see just how much it sucks. BTW in case you're wondering, I have an old-style Electrolux central with a K&N on its exhaust and a Miele canister.
I will try to see if I can borrow vacuum gauge from someone.

Also thought about the AT not shifting into neutral in drive at idle, but if you shift into neutral, that vibration should go away.

Ha, a heck of a lot easier to be there, can tall a lot how an engine is running by the odor, sound, and feel of the exhaust.

Usually the first questions asked is, are you getting any codes?
Shifting into neutral differently stops the vibrations. I asked them about the car shifts into neutral if the car stopped long enough in drive and they said no such feature on the Cruze.


No codes at all.
 

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The display looks a little noisy. Like perhaps there's a bad connection or cable from the camera to the MyLink.
 

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I asked them about the car shifts into neutral if the car stopped long enough in drive and they said no such feature on the Cruze.
*sigh* I'd suggest looking for another dealer.
 

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Shifting into neutral differently stops the vibrations. I asked them about the car shifts into neutral if the car stopped long enough in drive and they said no such feature on the Cruze.


No codes at all.
Obviously this dealer doesn't have enough monkeys to write Hamlet. Get another dealership ASAP. I bet their shake diagnosis was "No codes => no problems".
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
*sigh* I'd suggest looking for another dealer.
We are running out of dealerships that are close by to chose.

Still getting frequent brochures from my Chevy dealer.
Bring your 2012 Cruze in for service, WE ARE THE EXPERTS!
Hahaha... (Some) experts are telling you "It is normal."

Obviously this dealer doesn't have enough monkeys to write Hamlet. Get another dealership ASAP. I bet their shake diagnosis was "No codes => no problems".
Many dealerships and mechanic shops are probably going that route, no codes = no problems. It is becoming rare to find good ones now days.
Then again you could have that one mechanic in the same dealership who would believes you and spend more time.
I do not know if there is a website that customers can review the mechanics themselves, not the dealership. Something similar to ZocDoc website.

The display looks a little noisy. Like perhaps there's a bad connection or cable from the camera to the MyLink.
Perhaps could be bad connection or cable, I am thinking might be the MyLink unit itself after the camera was replaced.
 

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Perhaps could be bad connection or cable, I am thinking might be the MyLink unit itself after the camera was replaced.
I've been conditioned from years as a AV tech - suspect cable before electronics. Granted, this cable doesn't go though the flexing that most cables go though, but that doesn't mean it didn't get pinched or slammed during assembly.

If you feel adventitious, you could go into your dash and make sure it's plugged in good and that it doesn't change as you flex the connection.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I've been conditioned from years as a AV tech - suspect cable before electronics. Granted, this cable doesn't go though the flexing that most cables go though, but that doesn't mean it didn't get pinched or slammed during assembly.

If you feel adventitious, you could go into your dash and make sure it's plugged in good and that it doesn't change as you flex the connection.
I thought the OEM camera cable goes all the to the MyLink unit without a quick-disconnect in the middle of the line. I guess not. Is there an instructions somewhere showing how to remove the dash and everything for 2014 or are they are the same as older models?
 

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Purchased a Cruze with lots of driver's window wind noise. Looked at the weather strip, was a quarter of an inch wider than the others. Service manager said this was normal until I dragged him by his hand to look at other 2012's in his lot, where their weather strips fit snugly. Where in the heck did Chevy get this weather strip from? And why me? Took this for him to order another one that did fit snugly.

Maybe you have to do the same thing by comparing your camera images with other similar vehicles and hope your service manager isn't blind. Had to do the same thing with my rear disc calipers after a couple of years. Dealer already had 2012's used in his parking lot with shiny calipers, mine were never plated and a pile of rust. Can only speculate why he had four used 2012's in his lot, maybe these people took his advice like he gave to me with problems, trade it in for a new one. Idiot didn't even know you need to work the parking brake to adjust these things, neither did his assistant.

My shop manual never even heard about rear view cameras. But in looking at aftermarket types, two different kinds. Some use a video cable, where others only require 12V at the back and communicate with bluetooth or some other RF frequency. Just guessing you may have the latter, looks like using an old TV set using a pair of rabbit ears way out in the sticks.

Worked in the communication field for years, can measure the output power of the transmitter and the sensitivity of the receiver to determine problems. Automotive is void of any such specifications, just replace with a know good unit is all the shop manual has to say. You paid for this stuff and have a right to expect it to work.

Ha, my son laid out 3,000 bucks for an entertainment center for my grandkids. DVD goes in the dash, has so fold down screens in the rear. Don't ask me why, but running a video cable for the screen, but for the audio, only has six channels where he has to tune his FM radio to the correct frequency. Problem is on the only six channels they gave him, powerful FM stations causing interference.

His dealer can't do anything about this an neither can I, should have embedded that audio signal with the video, not that this technology is already over 75 years old. No circuit diagrams, use ASIC's that cost about 50 cents each with no access to the signals you need. You just wasted 3,000 bucks, or drive someplace where you can find a free channel.
 

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Idiot didn't even know you need to work the parking brake to adjust these things, neither did his assistant.
Nick - My 6000STE required this procedure for it's rear discs but I didn't think this was the case for the Cruze?
 
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