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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just curious if anyone has run a warm air intake. Seeing as I have massive drops in instant mpg even fully warmed up during colder weather. Curious if having intake additional tubing run toward manifold to pull heat from there to bump temps would work. 15+ mpg swing in instant mpg on same route holding same speed isn't due to denser air creating higher drag values. I feel are cars run best between 60° and 80°. Curious if anyone has tried this and to what end result?
 

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Just curious if anyone has run a warm air intake. Seeing as I have massive drops in instant mpg even fully warmed up during colder weather. Curious if having intake additional tubing run toward manifold to pull heat from there to bump temps would work. 15+ mpg swing in instant mpg on same route holding same speed isn't due to denser air creating higher drag values. I feel are cars run best between 60° and 80°. Curious if anyone has tried this and to what end result?
I see the same mpg swings on my CTD. I run a grille block when temps are below 50°.

Pulling air from around the exhaust manifold should help. I am wanting to do this to my car, but need to get an OBD2 reader first, to monitor temps.



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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I would like to see the ******* intake...That's more my speed. Not $180-300 hunk of crap that you need to modify anyways as seen in that thread. Just need the section with the maf and a slight reroute. I'm guessing exhaust flex pipe would work well. Eric you have been all over these 1.4 forums I'm sure you have found some RNI around with links. I have only seen one decent one and he was playing with heater core stuff. That's not my cup of tea. More just keeping car at homeostasis during cooler driving times and short trips.
 

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Personaly i will never use a short-ram intake again, its complete crap, its just good for the looks and the sounds. It use hot air from under the hood, basicly helping to heat-soak itself.

The colder the air the better, even in Winter. I know the car doesnt warm up as fast and you wont see much difference in fuel economy, its not worth it, keep your intake stock.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I really have zero opportunity to suffer any null effects from heatsoak. My trips are never in excess of 40 miles. No stop and go more than 2 consecutive stoplights...And those are decent distance appart. When I head to a town for shopping it's directly to the store and off long enough to adequately cool to prevent any chance of heat soak issues in the 2-4 stoplights I would see on my way out. Not exactly a city guy. Just kinda hypermile the country roads hypershort trips. Typically less than 15 miles between long enough cool down time to consider car cold. Curious if I could just turn the airbox sideways so bottom tube would be pulling from the motors direction. I think the box would fit sideways in there...Would be easy test may have to try that tomorrow. If it works I won't need any extra parts...Zip ties to secure box. Then would be 30 second pop the hood and twist to put it back. Thoughts or previous attempt at this so I don't waste my time would be great. Still seeing a lot of hate on the wai lol if it works for me I hope I can rub it in lol
 

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I really have zero opportunity to suffer any null effects from heatsoak. My trips are never in excess of 40 miles. No stop and go more than 2 consecutive stoplights...And those are decent distance appart. When I head to a town for shopping it's directly to the store and off long enough to adequately cool to prevent any chance of heat soak issues in the 2-4 stoplights I would see on my way out. Not exactly a city guy. Just kinda hypermile the country roads hypershort trips. Typically less than 15 miles between long enough cool down time to consider car cold. Curious if I could just turn the airbox sideways so bottom tube would be pulling from the motors direction. I think the box would fit sideways in there...Would be easy test may have to try that tomorrow. If it works I won't need any extra parts...Zip ties to secure box. Then would be 30 second pop the hood and twist to put it back. Thoughts or previous attempt at this so I don't waste my time would be great. Still seeing a lot of hate on the wai lol if it works for me I hope I can rub it in lol
Well then a SRI like i had on my 2012 could be good for you, if you dont do a on the fly modification.

Mine was this one : https://zzperformance.com/sonic/air-intake/cruze-k-n-intake.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well then a SRI like i had on my 2012 could be good for you, if you dont do a on the fly modification.

Mine was this one : https://zzperformance.com/sonic/air-intake/cruze-k-n-intake.html
I'm definitely not blowing that kinda cash on something that hides under a hood lol you can darn near get a tune for that! Pipe fittings are easy to play with and flex pipe is even easier I can figure something out. Was hoping to see someone else's imperfect designs lol
 

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I'm definitely not blowing that kinda cash on something that hides under a hood lol you can darn near get a tune for that! Pipe fittings are easy to play with and flex pipe is even easier I can figure something out. Was hoping to see someone else's imperfect designs lol
Ya, the best for the price would be just to modify slightly the stock air box.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I'll tinker and see what I can come up with. May play with maf as well once I learn a bit more about it. WAI forces you to read a lot!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Wouldn't having a separator to push some air past the maf undetected create a leaner operation? Or would 02 sensor level that out quickly? Just curious if it's worthwhile to play with the maf at all other than in the computer system? Cuz a simple plastic or metal piece in the tube before maf diverting air around the maf would mean more air being put in but maf only reading the 3/4 or half flow matching that for air fuel ratio. That would I'm turn create a leaner scenario correct?
 

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The Cruze does not run better on 20 degree air than 70 degree air. They will heat soak after a few hours, but for those that only use the car for short, low-speed commutes, especially in colder climates, I do believe warming the intake air would benefit it. When it's zero and the heater needs to be on notch 2 to keep the car warm, and you never break 40 MPH while coasting or idling half the time, I'm not sure how long it would take the engine temp to get to full while burning extra fuel the whole time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Zero degrees out it takes about 15 to 20 minutes with the heat completely off toggled to 1 to keep windshield clear on idle sections. If I stay backroads never breaking 45 mph except on a neutral coast I hit about 52. That's a 13 miles trek to work. It's just about at normal operating temp when I arrive lol granted that's not adding in wind chill. Sucks the heat out of the car a tick faster than dead air.
 

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Zero degrees out it takes about 15 to 20 minutes with the heat completely off toggled to 1 to keep windshield clear on idle sections. If I stay backroads never breaking 45 mph except on a neutral coast I hit about 52. That's a 13 miles trek to work. It's just about at normal operating temp when I arrive lol granted that's not adding in wind chill. Sucks the heat out of the car a tick faster than dead air.
Mmmmm, at 45mph the car should get hot rather fast, at least both my 1.4 and 2.0 did.
 

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Wouldn't having a separator to push some air past the maf undetected create a leaner operation? Or would 02 sensor level that out quickly? Just curious if it's worthwhile to play with the maf at all other than in the computer system? Cuz a simple plastic or metal piece in the tube before maf diverting air around the maf would mean more air being put in but maf only reading the 3/4 or half flow matching that for air fuel ratio. That would I'm turn create a leaner scenario correct?
Do not do that.
 
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