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2013 ECO with 60K:

Was just under the front end to do a oil change. noticed what I think is the trans case with quite a bit of oil on it. A few drops on the floor. I believe motor oil. Trans to engine gasket?

Anyone with an issue like this?

Is`nt the drive train warranty at 60K? Would something like this be covered?

Geez.
 

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Can either be the RTV in the oil pan or the rear seal in the engine, first isn't too bad, second is a major job. Not sure about warranty coverage, somebody else here should know.
 

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I Used to work at a lubebay and i seen that alot on cruzes and it was the tranny seal
 

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but don't quote me I cant be forsure
 

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Usually a drip hole on the AT bell housing, rear seal oil leaks out there, if the pan, capillary action draws it down. Typically most AT fluid is red, engine oil tan to black depending on how long its been in there.

This is the service procedure for the pan. Sometimes those pan bolts work loose.

Oil Pan Replacement (1.4L LUH and LUJ)

Special Tools

EN-49980 - Guidance Pins

For equivalent regional tools, refer to Special Tools See: Tools and Equipment.

Removal Procedure



  1. Open the hood.
  2. Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle See: Maintenance\Vehicle Lifting\Service and Repair.
  3. Drain engine oil. Refer to Engine Oil and Oil Filter Replacement See: Engine Oil\Service and Repair.
  4. Remove the catalytic converter. Refer to Catalytic Converter Replacement (LDE, LXV, 2H0, LUW and LFH) See: Exhaust System\Catalytic Converter\Service and RepairCatalytic Converter Replacement (1.4L LUH and LUJ) See: Exhaust System\Catalytic Converter\Service and Repair.
  5. Remove the warm up three way catalytic converter. Refer to Warm Up Three-Way Catalytic Converter Replacement (1.4L LUH and LUJ) See: Exhaust System\Heat Shield\Service and Repair\Warm Up Three-Way Catalytic Converter Replacement.
  6. Remove the engine oil heater, if equipped. Refer to Engine Oil Heater Replacement See: Engine Lubrication\Service and Repair





  1. Remove the transmission to oil pan bolts (1).

    • For vehicles with manual transmission remove 3 bolts.
    • For vehicles with automatic transmission remove 2 bolts.





  1. Remove the 16 oil pan bolts (1).





Caution: Pry the oil pan carefully in order to prevent damage to the transaxle case or the oil pan sealing surfaces.


  1. Position a prying tool to the area (1) shown, and gently pry the oil pan loose.





  1. Remove the oil pan (1).
Installation Procedure



  1. Clean the sealing surface of the crankshaft bearing cap tie plate and the groove in the engine front cover from old gasket material, oil, dirt and grease.
  2. If the oil pan is being reused, refer to Oil Pan Cleaning and Inspection.





  1. Install the 2 EN-49980 - pins (1) to the shown oil pan screw bores.





Note: The sealing bead should be applied close to the inner edge of the oil pan. Take care that the oil suction gallery (4) will not get contaminated with sealing compound or dirt. The thickness of the sealing bead (3) should be 2 mm (0.0787 in) .


  1. Apply sealing compound to the oil pan. Refer to Adhesives, Fluids, Lubricants, and Sealers See: Specifications\Adhesives, Fluids, Lubricants, and Sealers.
  2. Apply sealing compound to the groove of the engine front cover (1).
Note: The complete installation procedure of the oil pan should not take longer than 10 minutes.



  1. Apply sealing compound around the screw bore (2) of the crankshaft bearing cap tie plate.





Caution: Use care when installing the oil pan to prevent disruption of the sealing bead. The sealing bead should remain consistent until the oil pan is mated with the engine. An inconsistent sealing bead can cause an insufficient seal and result in engine damage.


  1. Carefully install the oil pan. Use the following procedure:

  1. Lay the oil pan on drive train and front suspension frame.
  2. Hang in the oil pan to crankshaft balancer (1).
  3. Guide the oil pan with the 2 EN-49980 - pins (2) and the equivalent screw bores to the engine.
  4. Secure the oil pan with 4 oil pan bolts.
  5. Remove the 2 EN-49980 - pins.
Caution: Refer to Fastener Caution See: Service Precautions\Vehicle Damage Warnings\Fastener Caution.



  1. Install the remaining 12 oil pan bolts and hand tighten to approximately 2 Nm (18 lb in) .





  1. Install the transmission to oil pan bolts (1).

    • For vehicles with manual transmission tighten 2 bolts to 40 Nm (30 lb ft) .
    • For vehicles with automatic transmission tighten 2 bolts to 40 Nm (30 lb ft) .

  1. Tighten the 16 oil pan bolts to 10 Nm (89 lb in) .

  1. Install the engine oil heater, if equipped. Refer to Engine Oil Heater Replacement See: Engine Lubrication\Service and Repair.
  2. Install the warm up three way catalytic converter. Refer to Warm Up Three-Way Catalytic Converter Replacement (1.4L LUH and LUJ) See: Exhaust System\Heat Shield\Service and Repair\Warm Up Three-Way Catalytic Converter Replacement.
  3. Install the catalytic converter. Refer to Catalytic Converter Replacement (LDE, LXV, 2H0, LUW and LFH) See: Exhaust System\Catalytic Converter\Service and RepairCatalytic Converter Replacement (1.4L LUH and LUJ) See: Exhaust System\Catalytic Converter\Service and Repair.
  4. Lower the vehicle.
  5. Fill engine oil. Refer to Engine Oil and Oil Filter Replacement See: Engine Oil\Service and Repair.
  6. Close the hood.
 

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Hey Is there a website where u can get all service procedures for the chevy cruze?
Usually a drip hole on the AT bell housing, rear seal oil leaks out there, if the pan, capillary action draws it down. Typically most AT fluid is red, engine oil tan to black depending on how long its been in there.

This is the service procedure for the pan. Sometimes those pan bolts work loose.

Oil Pan Replacement (1.4L LUH and LUJ)

Special Tools

EN-49980 - Guidance Pins

For equivalent regional tools, refer to Special Tools See: Tools and Equipment.

Removal Procedure



  1. Open the hood.
  2. Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle See: Maintenance\Vehicle Lifting\Service and Repair.
  3. Drain engine oil. Refer to Engine Oil and Oil Filter Replacement See: Engine Oil\Service and Repair.
  4. Remove the catalytic converter. Refer to Catalytic Converter Replacement (LDE, LXV, 2H0, LUW and LFH) See: Exhaust System\Catalytic Converter\Service and RepairCatalytic Converter Replacement (1.4L LUH and LUJ) See: Exhaust System\Catalytic Converter\Service and Repair.
  5. Remove the warm up three way catalytic converter. Refer to Warm Up Three-Way Catalytic Converter Replacement (1.4L LUH and LUJ) See: Exhaust System\Heat Shield\Service and Repair\Warm Up Three-Way Catalytic Converter Replacement.
  6. Remove the engine oil heater, if equipped. Refer to Engine Oil Heater Replacement See: Engine Lubrication\Service and Repair





  1. Remove the transmission to oil pan bolts (1).

    • For vehicles with manual transmission remove 3 bolts.
    • For vehicles with automatic transmission remove 2 bolts.





  1. Remove the 16 oil pan bolts (1).





Caution: Pry the oil pan carefully in order to prevent damage to the transaxle case or the oil pan sealing surfaces.


  1. Position a prying tool to the area (1) shown, and gently pry the oil pan loose.





  1. Remove the oil pan (1).
Installation Procedure



  1. Clean the sealing surface of the crankshaft bearing cap tie plate and the groove in the engine front cover from old gasket material, oil, dirt and grease.
  2. If the oil pan is being reused, refer to Oil Pan Cleaning and Inspection.





  1. Install the 2 EN-49980 - pins (1) to the shown oil pan screw bores.





Note: The sealing bead should be applied close to the inner edge of the oil pan. Take care that the oil suction gallery (4) will not get contaminated with sealing compound or dirt. The thickness of the sealing bead (3) should be 2 mm (0.0787 in) .


  1. Apply sealing compound to the oil pan. Refer to Adhesives, Fluids, Lubricants, and Sealers See: Specifications\Adhesives, Fluids, Lubricants, and Sealers.
  2. Apply sealing compound to the groove of the engine front cover (1).
Note: The complete installation procedure of the oil pan should not take longer than 10 minutes.



  1. Apply sealing compound around the screw bore (2) of the crankshaft bearing cap tie plate.





Caution: Use care when installing the oil pan to prevent disruption of the sealing bead. The sealing bead should remain consistent until the oil pan is mated with the engine. An inconsistent sealing bead can cause an insufficient seal and result in engine damage.


  1. Carefully install the oil pan. Use the following procedure:

  1. Lay the oil pan on drive train and front suspension frame.
  2. Hang in the oil pan to crankshaft balancer (1).
  3. Guide the oil pan with the 2 EN-49980 - pins (2) and the equivalent screw bores to the engine.
  4. Secure the oil pan with 4 oil pan bolts.
  5. Remove the 2 EN-49980 - pins.
Caution: Refer to Fastener Caution See: Service Precautions\Vehicle Damage Warnings\Fastener Caution.



  1. Install the remaining 12 oil pan bolts and hand tighten to approximately 2 Nm (18 lb in) .





  1. Install the transmission to oil pan bolts (1).

    • For vehicles with manual transmission tighten 2 bolts to 40 Nm (30 lb ft) .
    • For vehicles with automatic transmission tighten 2 bolts to 40 Nm (30 lb ft) .

  1. Tighten the 16 oil pan bolts to 10 Nm (89 lb in) .

  1. Install the engine oil heater, if equipped. Refer to Engine Oil Heater Replacement See: Engine Lubrication\Service and Repair.
  2. Install the warm up three way catalytic converter. Refer to Warm Up Three-Way Catalytic Converter Replacement (1.4L LUH and LUJ) See: Exhaust System\Heat Shield\Service and Repair\Warm Up Three-Way Catalytic Converter Replacement.
  3. Install the catalytic converter. Refer to Catalytic Converter Replacement (LDE, LXV, 2H0, LUW and LFH) See: Exhaust System\Catalytic Converter\Service and RepairCatalytic Converter Replacement (1.4L LUH and LUJ) See: Exhaust System\Catalytic Converter\Service and Repair.
  4. Lower the vehicle.
  5. Fill engine oil. Refer to Engine Oil and Oil Filter Replacement See: Engine Oil\Service and Repair.
  6. Close the hood.
 

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I had a major rear main seal leak, then oil pan leak, and most recently right axel seal leak on my 13 1LT. I hear rear main seal leak is common on the Cruzen
 

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2013 ECO with 60K:

Was just under the front end to do a oil change. noticed what I think is the trans case with quite a bit of oil on it. A few drops on the floor. I believe motor oil. Trans to engine gasket?

Anyone with an issue like this?

Is`nt the drive train warranty at 60K? Would something like this be covered?

Geez.
Covered powertrain repair.....5yr/100k.

Rob
 

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Hey Is there a website where u can get all service procedures for the chevy cruze?
Not for free. Have to subscribe. Something like Alldata, or GM's service offerings. Or buy the manual from Helm. ($200+)
 

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Do a web search for alldata coupons, copy the number.

Then go to alldata.com, a two year subscription cost me around 15 bucks. And a heck of a lot easier to find things than to plow though over six inches thick of manuals. For the same price as manuals, would get 26 years of data, have a feeling the Cruze won't last quite that long.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yes, ............... I scanned thru the warranty manual and see gaskets are covered among the trans and motor . 5yr/100k like mentioned. Shame I can`t get under the thing to hopefully see what's going on. At least the pressure of having it looked at immediately is not needed.

I`ll post something when I get it looked at.
 

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For the same price as manuals, would get 26 years of data, have a feeling the Cruze won't last quite that long.
Only if you can keep renewing at $15/2 years.
 

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Just changed the oil on the wife's 1.4 Sonic last night and noticed a similar drip. Will keep and eye on it and try to get it fixed under warranty. Sucks cause I just filled it up with Amsoil! Will probably wait until it's ready to be drained to have the leak looked at.
 

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What about oil consumption? Ha, not sure what I hate most, road salt or leaks, either messes up my garage floor, but at least with leaks, can do something about this.

Talking to a complete idiot here, putting up with GM rope seals for some odd 30 years, have that Chinese finger puller tool for replacing the upper rope, but gave up, only good for about 5,000 miles and would leak again. Could only fill to the add mark or would end up with a quart of oil on the garage floor. One cure to get rid of this in the 80's was to switch to Japanese made cars, felt unpatriotic by doing this, but also had enough. No more GM loyalty for awhile.

Ha, was kicking myself in my butt for not replacing the rear seal in my P-30 motorhome, had the AT pulled for a complete overhaul. Was laying under the vehicle for five minutes staring at it, would have been so easy to replace at that time, but looked good, so I left it, a year later, started leaking. Time to kick my own butt.

But I tossed a quart of Lucas Engine oil seal conditioner in the engine oil, that stopped it, least for now. Ha, can always pull the transmission again. Also hail getting old, use to be able to hold that thing up with one hand to start the first bolt. Now I have to use two hands to hold it up, so need somebody else to start that one bolt. But with transaxles, need at least two guys to help me. Not making it any easier with this new stuff.
 
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