[Maqcro1]

Hello All!

I’m new to the forum but I’ve been browsing it for years. I’ve had this ongoing issue with my car and am looking for advice.

Beginning in Dec of ‘19 my car started registering that it was overheating. Temp gauge would stop working, fan would go full blast, and AC would be disengaged. I replaced two of the coolant sensors and that seemed to work for anout

When I took it in to get fixed they replaced the thermostat and housing for it.

About a month later later it started happening again. I had read on this forum about disconnecting the negative battery wire to let the computer reset as a potential fix. I did this and it seemed to fix it but about once a week I would need to do it again. Please note that the engine was not overheating, it just said that it was.
I took it in again and they said there was a fault in on of the sensor wires and replaced it. Two weeks later and it was back on it’s BS.

Here’s where it gets interesting. About a month after the issue started up again and I was doing my quick fix the AC stopped working all together. Turned it off at night working and the next morning nothing. Since this happened my car has not pretended to overheat. It’s going on about two months now.

Any ideas of what’s wrong with it?

it’s a ‘13 LS 1.8L 6MT

2 things.

- Is your cooling fan spinning

- are you low on coolant

 

[WV_6MT_18]

2 things.

- Is your cooling fan spinning

- are you low on coolant

No and no.

 

[Johnny B]

fan would go full blast

This whole story is a classic case of a bad fan resistor. When the resistor goes bad the fan only runs at high speed. More than likely you need a new fan, the resistor is NOT a repair part.

 

[WV_6MT_18]

This whole story is a classic case of a bad fan resistor. When the resistor goes bad the fan only runs at high speed. More than likely you need a new fan, the resistor is NOT a repair part.

This would cause the AC to stop working overnight and not have anymore overheating issues?

Sorry if that’s a dumb question. I just can’t picture how it’s all related.

 

[Maqcro1]

This would cause the AC to stop working overnight and not have anymore overheating issues?

Sorry if that’s a dumb question. I just can’t picture how it’s all related.

Yes fan not spinning, no A/C

You can check relays but most likely a bad cooling fan.

 

[WV_6MT_18]

Yes fan not spinning, no A/C

You can check relays but most likely a bad cooling fan.

Thank you. I’m taking it in tomorrow to get checked out. Hoping it is something cheaper like the cooling fan.

 

[Maqcro1]

Thank you. I’m taking it in tomorrow to get checked out. Hoping it is something cheaper like the cooling fan.

Ok but don’t get over charged. Fan costs about $200 + labor. I’ve replaced mine before and it took about 10 minutes

 

[WV_6MT_18]

Ok but don’t get over charged. Fan costs about $200 + labor. I’ve replaced mine before and it took about 10 minutes

If I feel they are charging too much I can always buy the part separate and have my brother swap it out for me. I’m sure I could do it myself, but I’d rather someone more experienced handle it. I grew up learning to frame houses and drywall, dad wasn’t good at fixing mechanical things.

 

[Maqcro1]

If I feel they are charging too much I can always buy the part separate and have my brother swap it out for me. I’m sure I could do it myself, but I’d rather someone more experienced handle it. I grew up learning to frame houses and drywall, dad wasn’t good at fixing mechanical things.

You literally need a flat head screwdriver to release the plastic tabs. Move the wiring harness and it slides out from the top.

 

[nickgarthwaite]

Hello All!

I’m new to the forum but I’ve been browsing it for years. I’ve had this ongoing issue with my car and am looking for advice.

Beginning in Dec of ‘19 my car started registering that it was overheating. Temp gauge would stop working, fan would go full blast, and AC would be disengaged. I replaced two of the coolant sensors and that seemed to work for anout

When I took it in to get fixed they replaced the thermostat and housing for it.

About a month later later it started happening again. I had read on this forum about disconnecting the negative battery wire to let the computer reset as a potential fix. I did this and it seemed to fix it but about once a week I would need to do it again. Please note that the engine was not overheating, it just said that it was.
I took it in again and they said there was a fault in on of the sensor wires and replaced it. Two weeks later and it was back on it’s BS.

Here’s where it gets interesting. About a month after the issue started up again and I was doing my quick fix the AC stopped working all together. Turned it off at night working and the next morning nothing. Since this happened my car has not pretended to overheat. It’s going on about two months now.

Any ideas of what’s wrong with it?

it’s a ‘13 LS 1.8L 6MT

 

[Blasirl]

Hello All!

I’m new to the forum but I’ve been browsing it for years. I’ve had this ongoing issue with my car and am looking for advice.

Beginning in Dec of ‘19 my car started registering that it was overheating. Temp gauge would stop working, fan would go full blast, and AC would be disengaged. I replaced two of the coolant sensors and that seemed to work for anout

When I took it in to get fixed they replaced the thermostat and housing for it.

About a month later later it started happening again. I had read on this forum about disconnecting the negative battery wire to let the computer reset as a potential fix. I did this and it seemed to fix it but about once a week I would need to do it again. Please note that the engine was not overheating, it just said that it was.
I took it in again and they said there was a fault in on of the sensor wires and replaced it. Two weeks later and it was back on it’s BS.

Here’s where it gets interesting. About a month after the issue started up again and I was doing my quick fix the AC stopped working all together. Turned it off at night working and the next morning nothing. Since this happened my car has not pretended to overheat. It’s going on about two months now.

Any ideas of what’s wrong with it?

it’s a ‘13 LS 1.8L 6MT

Along with what Maqcro1 said, check both temp sensors and make sure the cooling system is bled completely.

AC off Due to high engine temp links
Troubleshooting temp sensors

P00B7 - ECM Code Reader

I currently have (1) 2011 and (2) 2012 Cruze LS for kids, and had 2 others previously (those were bought new and zero problems....hence why I bought 3 used ones....). The 2011 is on its 3rd T-stat, the last one done by GM dealer a month ago. Symptoms continuing with idle/park overheating/AC...

www.cruzetalk.com

Post in thread 'Chevy Cruze engine swap'
Another possibility:
Post in thread '#PI0762D: Coolant Leak at Water Pump - (Aug 1, 2013)'