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Discussion Starter #1
So I Bought a 2011 Chevy Cruz 1.4 L turbo ATM About 3-4 months ago Three days after I bought it I Immediately found out about the PVC problem that all of these have but hey it was only 3grand and 79k miles and the body and than 45k on the engine So I wasn’t mad about it anyways I started throwing mods on it air intake new oil feed line bypassed the bypass for the turbo, muffler delete and replaced exhaust resonator with a cherry bomb and it was running great for about 2 months with all this done but last night I changed my air filter and than woke up this morning and went out for a drive so normally I get about 15psi in BOOST but today I was only getting about 8-9psi so I opened the hood back up took the turbo/exhaust heat shield off and had my girlfriend rev it up a couple of times and this is what I noticed. The wastegate actuator arm wasn’t pushing the boost wastegate open and closed in fact it wasn’t moving at all!! Does it move when in park/neutral or does the car have to actually be moving for the wastegate to open and close now I’ve tried to look this up many times google YouTube and here Couldn’t find anything but I thought it could be that wastegate actuator piece but then I started looking more into the other parts that connect to the turbocharger like the Solenoids and Bpv could these other parts be the problem or is it the waste gate actuator? Again the wastegate actuator arm isn’t moving and I checked the wastegate on the turbo and that moves back and forth so that isn’t stuck open or closed
 

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2015 Cruze LT 1.4, aka Yuffie, aka RecklessRed
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240 Posts
It should only be really moving under load. It takes some work, but you should be able to pull it and have it move. Obviously it isn't going to budge much, but it will move. If it didn't you would likely be having different issues.

First, check for boost leaks. You will likely find some. Right off the bat, though, it sounds like you are just experiencing the way these cars run on a stock calibration (you aren't tuned, right). These don't have a static boost pressure. They have a bunch of limiters, commanded this and that, and actual this and that,that will in turn set off the limiters. The main thing is with these cars, is all of (most of at least) their tables are based on how much power to limit the vehicle to, how much the driver is demanding, and the safest way to get to it. If you are commanding (with your foot on a nice cool day) 160 lb/ft tq, and the car is starting to hit boost levels (or anticipates that it will) that will put it above that limit, instead of retarding spark, it actually will close the throttle blade (which is why sometimes you floor it and it feels like you are only going part throttle). That is the torque based system doing what it does. It's actually a really cool system. You just have to learn how to mess with it. Unfortunately if you wanna play, you gotta pay. EFI Live and HP Tuners are the only actually REALLY viable options, with HPT being cheaper by a couple hundred. It's not perfect, their documentation is TERRIBLY old, and most info you will find is for V8s, butthe concepts are all the same. In the next 1-2 years, I will have my platform out (Suave), which will alleviate a lot of the gripes I see from other apps, and give me some features none have (again, if everything goes well. It's a slow process coding by one's self).

But yeah. There are a lot of things to read about this. One of them is something like "Taking the mystery out of tuning the 1.4t" or something like that. I am not sure, you MAYBE have an e78 ecu, but I have seen the earlier models come with e38, regardless the tables may differ,but conceptually you would tackle it about the same way. PM me if you get stuck or confused.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the advice and input it has gotten warmer outside lately maybe that is the problem I’m going to the in a throttle body spacer today just for the hell of it I’ll let you know if there’s any difference it just sucks that a week ago I was cruzin on the freeway no lag I’d down shift and pass everyone but now It seems that the car won’t push past 5,000rpm in 5th gear and it seems like the gear ratios and constantly changing one day 4th gear will take me up to 75-80 mph and than not even close the next day ugh...and tunes are expensive and then it’s waiting for the equipment to come in to actually tune it I’m very impatient lol but hey thanks for a great reply!! also is there any other add one I can throw at it without a tune? And can I take the heat sheild off or would that burn/melt everything under the hood?
 
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