[Blasirl]

How do you know if your water outlet has failed? What else would dump coolant right below the water outlet? Should I replace the water outlet proactively since it's six years old even if it's not leaking?

I recently found that my 2012 Cruze 1.4L coolant tank was empty. Also, I had the P0068 DTC and occasional "AC off due to high engine temp" messages, stalling after starting, and fan running full time. I searched the forum and found the coolant/water outlet was likely to leak and had a sensor which could fail and cause these issues. I also saw coolant pooled up on the engine right below it (see attached pic). I bought the water outlet, recovery tank hose, and radiator temp sensor to replace during an overdue coolant flush.

Upon closer inspection, I found leaks all around the engine bay (covered in a separate post) though the water outlet looks dry. When I started doing my coolant flush, the water outlet didn't leak. So, how do I know if my water outlet failed and should I replace it proactively since it's six years old? What else could have leaked my coolant?

Thanks for your input. I'm new to Cruze maintenance and appreciate all the helpful info on this forum.

View attachment 259186

Try these:

[h=1]Mysterious coolant loss[/h]
[h=1]How-To: Replace 2011-2016 Cruze 1.4L Coolant/Water Outlet[/h]
[h=1]FIX: Coolant Odors/Coolant Loss From Reservoir[/h]
[h=1]Antifreeze Smell Thread[/h]
[h=1]Cruze Cabin Odors, Sources, and Resolution Summary[/h]

 

[winks79]

From where you describe the coolant was standing is a very good indication of the outlet leaking. The recovery tank hose will also cause coolant to pool in that area. I replaced my recovery hose and outlet at that same time. Neither are that expensive and are very easy to replace.

 

[obermd]

Spend the 10 to 15 bucks and get a bottle of the GM fluorescent coolant dye. Put the entire bottle into your coolant reservoir. Now when you have a leak it will leave a residue behind that you can see with a blacklight. A flashlight will also work. This will help you track down any remaining leaks.

 

[coopersmokeypiper]

The water outlet is plastic and is prone to failing. My thought is that it is plastic for a specific reason other than cost (same reason the overflow tank is not sealed). Notwithstanding this, it is a cheap part and easily replaced. Keep in mind that the next weak link is the water outlet hose that likes to leak. Be prepared to change that with the outlet as the tip breaks.

 

[obermd]

One more note on replacing the water outlet. There are two versions of this outlet - make sure you have the hoses for the new version before you start this task.

 

[Robby]

The water outlet is plastic and is prone to failing. My thought is that it is plastic for a specific reason other than cost (same reason the overflow tank is not sealed). Notwithstanding this, it is a cheap part and easily replaced. Keep in mind that the next weak link is the water outlet hose that likes to leak. Be prepared to change that with the outlet as the tip breaks.

Plastic as opposed to metal from a cost standpoint, for sure.
But, the reason this design exists is for ease of assembly on the line.
Blame Germany for this one since they've been using this method for almost 15 years.
Note that the male ends use 'O'rings....the female side has a hairpin clip. Assembly only requires insertion to the point the retaining clip snaps into position once the nipple is fully seated.....one and done.
In the past, the hoses were slipped over a barbed nipple and once seated, a clamp was engaged. Likely similar component expense but one less labor action with the added benefit of absolute seating of the connection.

The downside of this arrangement is time (heat cycling) hardens the 'O'rings and they become prone to seepage. Additionally, the plastic parts become increasingly brittle.....to the point of just a light bump can create a fracture in the material.

So, I understand it from a cost/correct assembly standpoint but hate the setup due to its limited lifespan.

Rob

 

[coopersmokeypiper]

And since it is closest to the engine the plastic components will burst prior to damage to the engine. Too much pressure is a major design problem.

 

[FireFox31]

Thanks for the input. I got parts 25193922 Coolant/Water Outlet and 13251447 Recovery Tank Hose as instructed by XR's DIY thread. Are those the most up to date versions?

 

[mikestony]

Thanks for the input. I got parts 25193922 Coolant/Water Outlet and 13251447 Recovery Tank Hose as instructed by XR's DIY thread. Are those the most up to date versions?

I saw your other posts, are the part numbers you listed here indeed correct?

 

[frankh]

I bought an aftermarket water outlet for $13 off ebay.. seems fine. I made a new barb out of steel for that little quick realease ot the vent hose that goes back to the overflow tank..

The hose connection was clealy leaking but only after I fixed that leak did I find the water outlet leaking.. it was impossible to see the leak but like you I had a puddle in just that spot.

While you have the coolant drained its wise to look at the feed to the heater that runs under the throttle body. any oil that weeps out of the TB will drip onto the heater hose and will degrade the rubber hose.

You can buy a 3/4 to 3/4 male adaptor from O'reillys then cut the bad part out and insert a straight piece of hose for a couple of bucks.

 

[FireFox31]

I saw your other posts, are the part numbers you listed here indeed correct?

These part numbers, which I got from XR's instructions, are what I bought from a Chevy dealer and installed yesterday on a 2012 Cruze 1.4L. The one I installed seemed identical to the one I replaced, so hopefully that's the new version which was mentioned above.

While you have the coolant drained its wise to look at the feed to the heater that runs under the throttle body. any oil that weeps out of the TB will drip onto the heater hose and will degrade the rubber hose.

That's good information. I trust you're talking about the heater core coolant hose. You should post that at the end of the DIY instructions so other people know to check this.

 

[frankh]

Yup the heater core hose.. mine was pretty ugly.

 

[Commando]

I bought an aftermarket water outlet for $13 off ebay.. seems fine. I made a new barb out of steel for that little quick realease ot the vent hose that goes back to the overflow tank..

The hose connection was clealy leaking but only after I fixed that leak did I find the water outlet leaking.. it was impossible to see the leak but like you I had a puddle in just that spot.

While you have the coolant drained its wise to look at the feed to the heater that runs under the throttle body. any oil that weeps out of the TB will drip onto the heater hose and will degrade the rubber hose.

You can buy a 3/4 to 3/4 male adaptor from O'reillys then cut the bad part out and insert a straight piece of hose for a couple of bucks.

What parts do I need for a 2016 cruze.

 

[Blasirl]

What parts do I need for a 2016 cruze.

Welcome Aboard!

Same parts as any other Gen I Cruze assuming yours is a limited.

Don't forget to introduce yourself and your Cruze here.

 

[Randi diaz]

I changed mine in 2016 an now it wont start please help

 

[Blasirl]

I changed mine in 2016 an now it wont start please help

You changed what , the water outlet? What did you disturb while installing it? When you say it won't start. does it turn over? Also did it run after you changed it in 2016?

 

[Randi diaz]

What parts do I need for a 2016 cruze.

Do the water outlets on 2016 limited eco have sensors on them replace mine an car wont start