Waterpump Replacement 2014 2.0
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My '14 CTD water pump failed at 64K. It was replaced by local Chevy Dealer under powertrain warranty. They also did the Timing Belt and tensioner pulley (as required per GM). Repairs took several weeks due to lack of Timing Belt availability. It's documented here:
http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/64-g...ion/191266-2-0-diesel-water-pump-failure.html
I'm assuming you must be out of powertrain warranty otherwise you wouldn't be asking for self-help. Sorry can't help much other than to highly recommend to also do the Timing Belt and Tensioner at the same time. Coolant from failed water pump can contaminate the timing belt and lead to premature failure.
Hopefully others can chime in with tips. And yes...this is the DIESEL 2.0 LUZ motor, not the notorious gas model.
http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/64-g...ion/191266-2-0-diesel-water-pump-failure.html
I'm assuming you must be out of powertrain warranty otherwise you wouldn't be asking for self-help. Sorry can't help much other than to highly recommend to also do the Timing Belt and Tensioner at the same time. Coolant from failed water pump can contaminate the timing belt and lead to premature failure.
Hopefully others can chime in with tips. And yes...this is the DIESEL 2.0 LUZ motor, not the notorious gas model.
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Not Ness, dealer said it wasn't the water pump there was no coolant leak but yet there is so I said **** with it and just bought the pump not worried about replacing the belt yet as long as I can get the leak gone...just trying to figure how bad it will be.. they were giving me the run around..
It is interesting to me that they consider the water pump a power train item. http://www.chevrolet.com/owners/warranty
I plan on having mine changed out around 125-150k miles when I get the timing belt replaced. Dealer quoted me around $800 for the belt and waterpump. Figure saving the $800 it not worth the amount of hassle for something that only needs to be done every few years and can cause serious damage if done incorrectly.
Timing belts were new to me since model year 1980, been replacing these for family, friends, and myself, most recently on my own 1988 Supra.
First area of concern is to learn if you have a so-call interference or non-interference engine, the former, if anything goes wrong with the belt, the pistons will crash into the valves, this is major. First ones were always non-interference, interference is tantamount to insane.
Was never the belt itself, seem to last forever, always the tensioner and/or an idler pulley that is the major cause of potential problems. Tiny ball bearing in there with a thin seal that can lose its lubrication, with a timing chain, it has constant lubrication and always renewed with every oil chain.
Main concern with my own Supra was age, only 45K on it, and was a good thing, the grease in both the tensioner and idler pulley was rock hard. Other concerns is the type of cage the bearing is using, can be plastic, stupid, tack welded metal cage, bit better, some some are not tacked very well, best is riveted. With plastic, heat can melt it, locks the balls, this will break the belt.
Other concerns, never seem to make the timing chain cover decent, road debris gets inside, what a mess. Yet another, need camshaft seals that age, sure don't want any oil on that belt. Other concerns are what type of material they are using for the sheaves, a Ford used a piece of plastic for the idler, gets hard with age and broke.
Yet another is do they show timing marks on the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets, some don't, stupid, need special tools to align this, just one tooth off, you put it all together and your engine won't run. Only find this out by getting your hands on a shop manual first.
Call the ball bearings for the timing belt, limited lubricated bearings,just a fraction of an ounce in these things. But this is only the only spot, also on these single drive belt systems. PS pump is gone, but still have the AC compressor and an over 100 ampere alternator that can put an extra 4 HP on that single belt. Weakest link in the chain is the water pump, the more you use your AC, the quicker it will wear out.
Really loved my 04 Cavalier 2.2L Eco engine, while an 80 buck tool was required to replace the water pump, never needed to buy one, was directly driven by the timing chain. That water pump, belt driven sees the same load as the alternator and the AC compressor. If you don't keep your condenser clean, R-134a refrigerant whose pressure increases exponentially with temperature puts a severe load on that AC compressor that is reflected to the water pump.
Engineers know all this stuff, but have to obey bean counters. Never had problems with that 04 Cavalier water pump, with even over 160K miles, was still running great, but road salt ate away at the rocker panels. Considered welding on new ones, but after I removed the carpeting, nothing left to weld them to.
Was disappointed when I read on the 1.4 L engine, put that water pump back on the belt, but since I had $4,800 on my GM Card, purchased it anyway, been through this before. One major disappointment, could no longer clean my condenser from the top, had to do this from the bottom. Nothing worse than city driving for excessive engine heat, just kept my AC off in these situations, I did not die.
Ha, was in 2014 my Chevy dealer called me, knocking off an extra 5K off the diesel, at this time diesel fuel was around a half a buck more expensive than gas, and after I read about that timing belt, said, no thanks. Then if your DEF tank runs low, it kills the engine! Ha, where is that compact spare?
First area of concern is to learn if you have a so-call interference or non-interference engine, the former, if anything goes wrong with the belt, the pistons will crash into the valves, this is major. First ones were always non-interference, interference is tantamount to insane.
Was never the belt itself, seem to last forever, always the tensioner and/or an idler pulley that is the major cause of potential problems. Tiny ball bearing in there with a thin seal that can lose its lubrication, with a timing chain, it has constant lubrication and always renewed with every oil chain.
Main concern with my own Supra was age, only 45K on it, and was a good thing, the grease in both the tensioner and idler pulley was rock hard. Other concerns is the type of cage the bearing is using, can be plastic, stupid, tack welded metal cage, bit better, some some are not tacked very well, best is riveted. With plastic, heat can melt it, locks the balls, this will break the belt.
Other concerns, never seem to make the timing chain cover decent, road debris gets inside, what a mess. Yet another, need camshaft seals that age, sure don't want any oil on that belt. Other concerns are what type of material they are using for the sheaves, a Ford used a piece of plastic for the idler, gets hard with age and broke.
Yet another is do they show timing marks on the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets, some don't, stupid, need special tools to align this, just one tooth off, you put it all together and your engine won't run. Only find this out by getting your hands on a shop manual first.
Call the ball bearings for the timing belt, limited lubricated bearings,just a fraction of an ounce in these things. But this is only the only spot, also on these single drive belt systems. PS pump is gone, but still have the AC compressor and an over 100 ampere alternator that can put an extra 4 HP on that single belt. Weakest link in the chain is the water pump, the more you use your AC, the quicker it will wear out.
Really loved my 04 Cavalier 2.2L Eco engine, while an 80 buck tool was required to replace the water pump, never needed to buy one, was directly driven by the timing chain. That water pump, belt driven sees the same load as the alternator and the AC compressor. If you don't keep your condenser clean, R-134a refrigerant whose pressure increases exponentially with temperature puts a severe load on that AC compressor that is reflected to the water pump.
Engineers know all this stuff, but have to obey bean counters. Never had problems with that 04 Cavalier water pump, with even over 160K miles, was still running great, but road salt ate away at the rocker panels. Considered welding on new ones, but after I removed the carpeting, nothing left to weld them to.
Was disappointed when I read on the 1.4 L engine, put that water pump back on the belt, but since I had $4,800 on my GM Card, purchased it anyway, been through this before. One major disappointment, could no longer clean my condenser from the top, had to do this from the bottom. Nothing worse than city driving for excessive engine heat, just kept my AC off in these situations, I did not die.
Ha, was in 2014 my Chevy dealer called me, knocking off an extra 5K off the diesel, at this time diesel fuel was around a half a buck more expensive than gas, and after I read about that timing belt, said, no thanks. Then if your DEF tank runs low, it kills the engine! Ha, where is that compact spare?
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I deleted my def tank lol
First time I replaced a timing belt, after a few miles it was loose, has to be broken in first. Did this by removing the spark plugs, and running the starter motor with the spark plugs removed. Load on the starter was low, could crank it for 30 seconds, let it cool, and with a battery charger installed, recharged the battery. Repeated this four time, then had to readjust the tensioner.
With my Supra, did this ten times, only pay myself a nickel an hour. It sure was loose.
Should do the same thing with a diesel, bit more troublesome to remove the injectors first, especially with at 20:1 CR ratio. Would have to do this carefully, rockauto wants 200 bucks each for these things.
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With my Supra, did this ten times, only pay myself a nickel an hour. It sure was loose.
Should do the same thing with a diesel, bit more troublesome to remove the injectors first, especially with at 20:1 CR ratio. Would have to do this carefully, rockauto wants 200 bucks each for these things.
Didn't get this far, just learned DEF is after the fact, injected into the cat. Are they using some kind of float valve that you can leave at full to fool the computer?
Did learn I could fill the tank, really don't have much problems pouring stuff in a hole, my dealers sure have this problem with an oil change.
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Just took the tank out, few clips and it was lifted, did the tune and delete kit
Ha, I won't tell anybody, if I drive from the Twin Cities to Chicago on 1-94, well to I-90 diesel trucks every couple of feet. None of these have a DEF tank, EPA doesn't care, but sure pick on a 2.0L.
Even worse are our harbors, with some 14,000 odd container ships from China, black smoke is so thick, can't even breathe, EPA doesn't car about these either. Nor do they care about five huge locomotives pulling 1.8 miles of tanker cars through the center of our city puffing black smoke.
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Nice write up! Very helpful!
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My 2.0 CTD water pump went out at 63,000 miles. My local Chevrolet dealership mechanic said the ‘book’ calls for timing belt, idler and tensioner replacement when water pump fails but he added that he anticipated some pushback from his manager.
Fortunately for me the mechanic and service writer advocated for me so the timing belt, tensioner and idler pulley were replaced as well under warranty.
Not sure if your situation is different. In my case the water pump was leaking badly, literally DUMPING antifreeze under the car. Perhaps your leak is minor enough to justify not replacing the belt?
Wouldn’t hurt to escalate with the dealer or perhaps PM Chevy Customer Care (on this forum under Vendors).
Good Luck!
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I pulled my service receipt and found the following. (Figured the “ref doc id 3950508 in Cautions and Notices” part might help you with the dealership regarding timing belt/tensioner/pulley replacement after water pump failure)
Notes from service tech: Verified low coolant level and performed cooling system pressure test to isolate leak. Traced leak to water pump after removing timing cover. Necc to replace water pump and timing belt. Belt must be replaced due to leaking water pump ref doc id 3950508 in cautions and notices.
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