What is this orange indicator light?
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Yes.
Autozone or something will read the code for free.
If you just bought the car, they should honor their warranty and fix it, but depending on the code, it may be covered under the manufacturers powertrains warranty.
Autozone or something will read the code for free.
If you just bought the car, they should honor their warranty and fix it, but depending on the code, it may be covered under the manufacturers powertrains warranty.
Thanks, I just noticed it today on my way into work, so I hope it isnt anything too major as I just did the purchase a week ago. You think it best to run it up to autzone first and then call the dealer?
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Sounds like a good plan - then at least you'll have some idea of what the code was - write down the Pxxxx numbers (dealers don't always communicate those directly).
From owner's manual:
If the malfunction indicator lamp comes on while the engine is running, this indicates that the OBD II system has detected a problem and diagnosis and service might be required.
Malfunctions often are indicated by the system before any problem is apparent. Being aware of the light can prevent more serious damage to the vehicle. This system also assists the dealer technician in correctly diagnosing any malfunction.
Notice: If the vehicle is continually driven with this light on, the emission controls might not work as well, the vehicle fuel economy might not be as good, and the engine might not run as smoothly. This could lead to costly repairs that might not be covered by the vehicle warranty.
Notice: Modifications made to the engine, transmission, exhaust, intake, or fuel system of the vehicle or the replacement of the original tires with other than those of the same Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) can affect the vehicle's emission controls and can cause this light to come on. Modifications to these systems could lead to costly repairs not covered by the vehicle warranty. This could also result in a failure to pass a required Emission
This light comes on during a malfunction in one of two ways: Light Flashing
: A misfire condition has been detected. A misfire increases vehicle emissions and could damage the emission control system on the vehicle. Diagnosis and service might be required.
To prevent more serious damage to the vehicle:
• Reduce vehicle speed.
• Avoid hard accelerations.
• Avoid steep uphill grades.
• If the vehicle is towing a trailer, reduce the amount of cargo being hauled as soon as it is possible.
If the light continues to flash, find a safe place to stop and park the vehicle. Turn the vehicle off, wait at least 10 seconds, and restart the engine. If the light is still flashing, follow the previous steps and see your dealer for service as soon as possible.
Light On Steady: An emission control system malfunction has been detected on the vehicle.
Diagnosis and service might be required.
The following may correct an emissions control system malfunction:
• Check that the fuel cap is fully installed. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. A loose or missing fuel cap allows fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere.
A few driving trips with the cap properly installed should turn the light off.
• Check that good quality fuel is used. Poor fuel quality causes the engine not to run as efficiently as designed and may cause stalling after start-up, stalling when the vehicle is changed into gear, misfiring, hesitation on acceleration, or stumbling on acceleration.
These conditions might go away once the engine is warmed up.
If one or more of these conditions occurs, change the fuel brand used.
It may require at least one full tank of the proper fuel to turn the light off.
If none of the above have made the light turn off, your dealer can check the vehicle. The dealer has the proper test equipment and diagnostic tools to fix any mechanical or electrical problems that might have developed.
If the malfunction indicator lamp comes on while the engine is running, this indicates that the OBD II system has detected a problem and diagnosis and service might be required.
Malfunctions often are indicated by the system before any problem is apparent. Being aware of the light can prevent more serious damage to the vehicle. This system also assists the dealer technician in correctly diagnosing any malfunction.
Notice: If the vehicle is continually driven with this light on, the emission controls might not work as well, the vehicle fuel economy might not be as good, and the engine might not run as smoothly. This could lead to costly repairs that might not be covered by the vehicle warranty.
Notice: Modifications made to the engine, transmission, exhaust, intake, or fuel system of the vehicle or the replacement of the original tires with other than those of the same Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) can affect the vehicle's emission controls and can cause this light to come on. Modifications to these systems could lead to costly repairs not covered by the vehicle warranty. This could also result in a failure to pass a required Emission
This light comes on during a malfunction in one of two ways: Light Flashing
: A misfire condition has been detected. A misfire increases vehicle emissions and could damage the emission control system on the vehicle. Diagnosis and service might be required.
To prevent more serious damage to the vehicle:
• Reduce vehicle speed.
• Avoid hard accelerations.
• Avoid steep uphill grades.
• If the vehicle is towing a trailer, reduce the amount of cargo being hauled as soon as it is possible.
If the light continues to flash, find a safe place to stop and park the vehicle. Turn the vehicle off, wait at least 10 seconds, and restart the engine. If the light is still flashing, follow the previous steps and see your dealer for service as soon as possible.
Light On Steady: An emission control system malfunction has been detected on the vehicle.
Diagnosis and service might be required.
The following may correct an emissions control system malfunction:
• Check that the fuel cap is fully installed. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. A loose or missing fuel cap allows fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere.
A few driving trips with the cap properly installed should turn the light off.
• Check that good quality fuel is used. Poor fuel quality causes the engine not to run as efficiently as designed and may cause stalling after start-up, stalling when the vehicle is changed into gear, misfiring, hesitation on acceleration, or stumbling on acceleration.
These conditions might go away once the engine is warmed up.
If one or more of these conditions occurs, change the fuel brand used.
It may require at least one full tank of the proper fuel to turn the light off.
If none of the above have made the light turn off, your dealer can check the vehicle. The dealer has the proper test equipment and diagnostic tools to fix any mechanical or electrical problems that might have developed.
Hate these newer vehicles, older ones with O2 sensors and fuel injection would display them. Your engine computer has a complete self diagnostic system that is constantly looking at it self, and if anything is wrong, no matter how minor, the check engine lamp comes on.
Cruze already has a DIC, could be nice for a change and display these codes, but they want you to run to your dealer every five minutes and get robbed. So why don't we just leave these things in the showroom.
Problems? How about your oil dipstick is not fully inserted? Generates a so-called type A code that can only be reset by a scanner. Carbon canister is mounted back by the fuel tank, splash of water can get into the purge valve, freeze, keep it from closing it, also a type A code, working perfectly fine when it melts, that check engine stays lite until reset.
A mouse crawling up your exhaust pipe can generate a secondary O2 sensor code. But be okay when the exhaust cooks it and blows it out. Sure you don't want to read another 400 examples. Minor misfires can damage the cat, this would be expensive as can a defective camshaft solenoid not keeping exhaust gas in the cylinder that causes severe valve damage.
Could even have two check engine lights, one that says stop your engine, other that says, no big deal, get to it never you can.
Another name for the CEL is HAL, heart attack lamp.
Cruze already has a DIC, could be nice for a change and display these codes, but they want you to run to your dealer every five minutes and get robbed. So why don't we just leave these things in the showroom.
Problems? How about your oil dipstick is not fully inserted? Generates a so-called type A code that can only be reset by a scanner. Carbon canister is mounted back by the fuel tank, splash of water can get into the purge valve, freeze, keep it from closing it, also a type A code, working perfectly fine when it melts, that check engine stays lite until reset.
A mouse crawling up your exhaust pipe can generate a secondary O2 sensor code. But be okay when the exhaust cooks it and blows it out. Sure you don't want to read another 400 examples. Minor misfires can damage the cat, this would be expensive as can a defective camshaft solenoid not keeping exhaust gas in the cylinder that causes severe valve damage.
Could even have two check engine lights, one that says stop your engine, other that says, no big deal, get to it never you can.
Another name for the CEL is HAL, heart attack lamp.
Two check engine lights is a good idea. How about if one says "Please ignore other light."
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It takes multiple occurrences (or a multiple times of a condition not being present) to flag the check engine light. It will most likely be back again, but you could still check for "pending" codes in the computer.
Out of curiosity, because I had the same thing happen where mine went off - remove the spark plug cover from the top of the engine (just pull up at both ends), and listen for a hissing sound from the valve at the upper right of the cam cover. It should not be sucking air; this creates a vacuum leak and is probably the most common cause of a check engine light and poor idle on these cars.
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Take it in to a local auto parts store. Many of these can read codes and many will do it for free. You need the codes to determine if this is critical or not.
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1,336 Posts
The only time I had a check engine light my gas cap came off. It was like the second week I had the car and I didn't screw the cap on correctly. Put the cap back and the light went back out after a little while I didn't even have the code read since when I checked the cap it just about fell out when I opened the gas cap cover.
Never laid out 5,600 bucks for a GM Tech II scanner yet with the ABS module, did buy some less expensive scanners. But quite pleased with Pro Torque from goggle play for five bucks installed on my smart phone. Have or had an iCar blue tooth elm327 plugged in they diagnostic port with an off on switch so could leave it in all the time for 20 bucks.
When a code did pop up, would do a net search to let me know what it is. Could also reset it on the road. Even shows so-called history codes.
For whatever strange reason, low cost scanners will not show ABS codes, stupid, claim liability when these basterds lie that in no way does ABS interfere with the primary service brakes. Sure does if a solenoid valve transistor leaks or a valve sticks, no brakes at all to that wheel.
How about this in a 93 Olds Bravada, with an ABS light on, dealer said 900 bucks to repair it, what cause that light to come on in the first place was a flat tire, and once set would stay set. All I needed was a paper clip to short out two pins on the diagnostic plug to reset it, when out an never came back on again. Live in a world loaded with crooks.
ABS is another bad joke, use cheap sensors that only cost 75 cents sensors with cheap wire and connectors running all over the place under your vehicle exposed to road salt that give more problems than they are worth, totally useless on glare ice roads. Traction control uses the same crap and even kills the engine when one wheel slips on ice.
Not only idiot engineers, but idiots running our country making this POS law and another reason for dealers to lie and cheat and screw the hail out of us if you don't know your vehicle.
How about this with crap rear calipers put on my then new Cruze, wouldn't ratchet to adjust the brakes. Go into my dealer, told nothing wrong with your Cruze, ain't getting any codes, what an AH. This is the kind of BS you have to put up with today.
When a code did pop up, would do a net search to let me know what it is. Could also reset it on the road. Even shows so-called history codes.
For whatever strange reason, low cost scanners will not show ABS codes, stupid, claim liability when these basterds lie that in no way does ABS interfere with the primary service brakes. Sure does if a solenoid valve transistor leaks or a valve sticks, no brakes at all to that wheel.
How about this in a 93 Olds Bravada, with an ABS light on, dealer said 900 bucks to repair it, what cause that light to come on in the first place was a flat tire, and once set would stay set. All I needed was a paper clip to short out two pins on the diagnostic plug to reset it, when out an never came back on again. Live in a world loaded with crooks.
ABS is another bad joke, use cheap sensors that only cost 75 cents sensors with cheap wire and connectors running all over the place under your vehicle exposed to road salt that give more problems than they are worth, totally useless on glare ice roads. Traction control uses the same crap and even kills the engine when one wheel slips on ice.
Not only idiot engineers, but idiots running our country making this POS law and another reason for dealers to lie and cheat and screw the hail out of us if you don't know your vehicle.
How about this with crap rear calipers put on my then new Cruze, wouldn't ratchet to adjust the brakes. Go into my dealer, told nothing wrong with your Cruze, ain't getting any codes, what an AH. This is the kind of BS you have to put up with today.
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1,013 Posts
When I went to check a "pending" code/intermittent engine light (on my old car) the auto parts stores all turned me away saying the light HAD to currently be on, or nothing would show up. I knew that wasn't true but they weren't even willing to plug in their scanners 
Guess they never heard of history codes. With GM, the IC engine has not changed since the 1903 Buick, no CEL back then, had to use external test equipment to find problems, with me, a compressor and oil pressure test is the first step, also use an AF ratio meter, timing light, cylinder balance tester, cylinder leakdown test, and brains. Brains were replaced by an 89 cent microcontroller.When I went to check a "pending" code/intermittent engine light (on my old car) the auto parts stores all turned me away saying the light HAD to currently be on, or nothing would show up. I knew that wasn't true but they weren't even willing to plug in their scanners
With the start of OBD I, code was stored in PROM, but also have both open and closed loop mode, O2 sensor and the catalytic converter are worthless with a cold engine, so open loop was learned from closed loop operation and stored in RAM, disconnect the battery of a half a second, that code was lost, car would run rough for 15 or so miles until it relearned.
But when full operating specifications were given for all the sensors, could bench test all of these and made darn sure all were within tolerance, 88 Supra is this way, so when I do disconnect the battery, nothing to relearn, engine start perfectly. They are not giving sensor specifications anymore, concerned about warranty replacement.
With the advent of OBD II not only relearn is stored in non-erasable memory, but the code as well, entirely stupid for the firmware, so disconnecting the battery is no longer a problem.
In the design of military self diagnostic systems secondary and even tertiary references were used, but not with consumable grade throwaway automobiles like we get stuck with. Most are only good for determining a complete or opened sensor, not a darn thing to do with way out of tolerance. But are trying to use code for cross checking, good luck.
Their idea of checking a sensor is to replace it with a known good one, but how do you know whats good or bad without specifications? This results in a huge amount of time wasted and money by replacing good parts with who knows what.
Never in the history of automotive have I experience more idiots working in this field, and this is exactly what the problem is. Can start off right at the top with the EPA.
And treating a loose gas cap like a very serious engine problem that can toast the engine is entirely stupid, but this is the way it is today.
Ha, your bumper isn't falling off, ain't getting a code.
Ha, in the start of emissions testing, first it was just HC's, then CO, was added, then NOx's, and now CO2 is being made a strong issue.
Bottom line is just putting into the engine two basis elements, carbon and nitrogen, get rid of these two, won't be an emission problems.
Bottom line is just putting into the engine two basis elements, carbon and nitrogen, get rid of these two, won't be an emission problems.
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5,722 Posts
Hello JPull07,
We apologize that you're having concerns with the check engine light in your Cruze. If you'd like assistance in setting up a dealership appointment, please send us a private message with your full contact information, VIN, mileage, and your preferred dealership to move forward.
Have a good day!
Chelsea D.
Chevrolet Customer Care
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Yeah, these jerks trying to tell us that we could do something preventative to stop a potential problem before it gets expensive. :idisagree:
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