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Discussion Starter · #4 ·

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As I mentioned in the other thread it is for aligning the shift cables, and is used in conjunction with an alignment tab built into the shift lever (gear stick).

As promised here's a tutorial on how to check it, very easy. The first set of pics is the older trans alignment style and the second is the new style (one pictured in this thread). The methodology for both is identical with the only difference being what's used to lock the linkage in place at the trans.

This is based on the following bulletin and ref documents (for some sonics w/M32 trans) Bulletin#PIP5048 DOCUMENT#2893321

Older Style
Ok, as promised, a pictoral guide to a simple, under 5 minute check to see if your shifter needs adjustment.

So, here we have our shifter. If your shifter does not look like this, then your job is incredibly simple: Go worry about something else on your car as this is not the issue you are looking for. If this is your shifter, or what your shifter looked like when it was stock, then you can continue with the guide.


The first step is to pull the shifter boot up from its base. This is simple to do. simply grab ahold of the fabric on the rearward side (closest to parking brake lever) and give it a tug upwards. It should pop right up.



Now we turn our attention to the white piece around the shifter. This is the reverse lockout, as well as the cable alignment fixture for lack of a better word. Looking at the front of it, there is a tab covered up by a metal clip.



Remove that metal clip and you're left with a tab.



Now pinch these tabs together while lifting vertically on the white piece. It should become rather free floating around the shifter shaft.

Once the white piece is floating, rotate it 180 degrees around the shifter and, when in neutral, get it so the tabs on the piece can insert into the holes on the left side of the shifter base.



Congratulations! Your shifter is now in cable allignment position. :banana:

Now, pop the hood. Looking at the driver's side of the engine bay, alongside the engine, you'll see something that looks like this:



As you can see, there's a hole there. That arm behind that tab is your shift lever. There is a corresponding hole in the shift lever that, when your shifter is locked in the alignment position, should line up perfectly with this hole. If you're looking at the alignment instructions posted elsewhere in this thread, this is where the 5mm pin/drillbit goes. When I aligned mine, I picked up a 2 pack of 5mm machine screws from Lowe's for $0.90.

If the holes aren't lined up (and if your car is shifting poorly, they're likely way off. Mine was almost an inch) then you either pull the center console apart as directed in the tutorial in this thread, or you take it to the dealer. If the holes are lined up, then you can put your shifter back together. Simply pull the white alignment thing out of its holes, spin it back around, clip it into position and put the metal tab back on and you're done.

Hopefully this helped diagnose at least a few people's shift issues. If this isn't the problem, then who knows what it is.

NOTE: If you're doing the cable alignment, the "Cable adjusters" that are mentioned in the tutorial here can be seen in the picture I posted of the metal piece on the tab (3rd picture). Yellow things way down in there.
Newer style
Just wanted to note the difference to the cable adjustment in MY13. It doesn't have the little metal tab, which is replaced by including it in the plastic assembly. You pry out on it a bit and then push the button and the lockout comes up. Also under the hood you can't see the hole and it looks like there is an adjuster on the car now, with a position "in" and one "out."

Reverse lockout tab, already flipped 180 degrees:


Out:


In:

Here's my write up (no pics)
For those curious about doing the TSB yourself because lets say you have some mechanical aptitude and a less than ideal dealer (ive taken mine in for the TSB and they fed me crap about my UG and exhuast and said i'd have to bring it back stock and they would have the pull the trans apart, yea right :rolleyes:) and would rather do it yourself, well then heres a DIY for ya.

You can reference post #171 in this thread for the reapir document with pics. and post #274 for the bulletin and ref#s for if you take it to the dealer.

The bulletin can be done in 30 mins to an hour. It requires a 5mm drill bit for the alignment (has to be 5mm or it'll cause mis alignment) and If you're really good either a screw driver or a long pair of pliers. For everyone else at most you'll need a small or avg size phillips screwdriver, flathead screw driver, 7mm socket and racthet, and a set of pliers may come in handy.

-Pop the base of the shift boot off, pry the rear of it in and up and then pull the whole thing up so it's out of the way. (this can actually be done by hand :D).

-pop the next pcs of trim off and set it aside. grab it at the rear in the opening made by removing the last trim piece. pull straight up to pop the rear clips free. pull up towards the front to pull the front/middlish clips free then pull it up and over the shifter.

-Pull up the big rubber insulation up off the shifter, it just sets in there.
Note: if you're really good you can probably finish the rest of the alignment without removing any more trim. the only tricky part is popping off the "cable locks" with the much more limited access.

-remove the lower kick panels located at the front of the tunnel under the dash. they both come off the same but the drivers side also has a push clip on it (use a philips and light touch to unscrew the center pcs and then pry out the rest of the clips.
yank the panels free startting farthest from the firewall. after the two tabs are popped free slide the kick panels rearward to free them.

-Remove the large section that goes around the shifter, E-brake, and has the cupholders. Set the E-brake to aid in removal. there are 4 7mm bolts that need to be removed, 2 at the front and 2 at the back (will need to move seats forward to access them). lift the back up and once there's room undo the cigarette lighter and child lock/TC/STM switches.
Pull the part over the e-brake and slide it up and rearwards. spreading the front outwards to clear the hvac controls/center stack may be neccesary.


Time to lock the shifter into the alignment postion. The shift lever has the a built in " alignment pins" built into it. it's the white/yellowish block on the shift lever under the boot and attached to the reverse lockout ring. it is actually the part that blocks out reverse. I'll call this the "alignment block" just to simplify naming.

-release the lock on the alignment block and lift it straight up. the release is the small tab facing the front with a metal braket around it, squeeze/push it downwards as you pull up on the alignment block, it can be stubborn pulling up just pull hard. also it's part of the reverse lockout so it will slide up and down some, keep pulling on it after the intial slack is taken up.

- once its free rotate the alignment block 180 degrees, you want the release tab facing the back and the 2 alignment pins on the drivers side.

- move the shifter over to the 1-2 nuetral gate (all the way left but still in nuetral). slide the alignment block down so the alignment tabs go down into the recieving holes in the shifter base. push down firmily on the alignment block until it SNAPs/clicks into place

NOTE: if you want to check your alignment this is where you'd do it. check it now.

-Time to use that 5mm drill bit (has to be 5mm!!!!!!) pop the hood and look where the shifter linkage is (located under the throttle body and battery, where the cables connect to). right at that spot is a boss attached to the transmission case, it has a small hole for the alignment tool. the linkage has an accompanying hole.

-stick the drill bit thru the boss and into the linkage, if you can fit it in there you do not have to proceed any further. If not the cables are mis adjusted

-release the "cable locks". they're the yellow rectangles located on each of the 2 cables near the shifter. simply pop them up. they are quite stubborn and some prying with a screw driver was neccesary in my case. once they're free leave them free for now, just make sure you've pulled them up all the way (once free it's not hard).

It may be easier to put the gear shifter back in nuetral to access them, just be sure to put it back in the alignment position before continuing.

- Move the shift linkage into position so you can slide the 5mm drill bit into it. you should only have to push the linkage down and wiggle it around until the drill bit slides into the hole. a little side to side wiggling may be neccesary as well. (the linkage will slide up or down for the ranges and forward/backward for the particular gear........ If it does not slide up or down you are in gear and must move it into nuetral by hand and then down until the pin fits in)

- now that the linkage is locked in place lock the lock the cables back in place. being careful not to pull on the cable or shifter simply push both the "Cable locks" down to lock the cables into postion. once they're down push kinda hard to make sure they;re seated.

-Remove the alignment pin.

You've succesfully aligned the tranmission cables. run it thru the gears to make sure it feels right and observe the shifter to make sure it moves in a "straight line" front to back (ie. 1-2, 3-5, 5-6). usually if its off much the shifter will not go straight forward or backwards into a gear but at a slight angle, usually worse in 1-2 or 5-6)

-If all looks good reinstall all the trim, remember to reattach the cigarette lighter and door lock/TC/STM switch when reinstalling the tunnel cover).

DISCLAIMER- I am not resoponsible for any errors in this writeup or any problems encountered if you do this yourself. It is recommended that this be performed by qualified persons with proper tools and referencing the GM bulletin. Also keep in mind this should be covered under the powertrain warranty. :popcorn:

enjoy

-Tyler


Here's the actual repair reference document:
As promised, here is a scan of the bulletin. The xerox from the dealer must have been low on toner so I penned in the parts that were hardly legible.

If you can't read my handwriting......... sorry about your luck.

This adjustment looks SUPER EASY. It's basically a cable reset in the 1st/2nd shift gate.





In a nutshell:
Open shifter console, pull up on cable lock tabs to unlock them.

Under the hood, position the shift lever as shown in diagram and lock it in place with a 5mm drill bit or allen key.

Unlock the reverse lockout on the shifter and rotate it 180 deg and set it in the two holes, this will align the shifter in the center of the 1st/2nd shift gate.

Now push down the tabs on the cable lock to secure the adjustment.

Spin the reverse lockout back to it's original position and lock it in.

DO NOT FORGET to remove the pin locking the shifter lever on the tranny.
 

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I remember seeing the white plastic piece when I pulled my console apart to install the Bluetooth PDIM. Nice write up. I suspect it works exactly the same in the Cruze.
 

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You guys might not be affected by it. I think it was 1st year Sonics that were afflicted, specifically the M32s, although there was a member that found his 1.8's 5sp to be out of spec.

That said I see no reason the procedures to check and align the cables would be any difrent, so it could be a nice little DIY check for anyone having odd shifting behavior.
 

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Thats the continueum transfunctioner.

Sent from my Note 3
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
You guys might not be affected by it. I think it was 1st year Sonics that were afflicted, specifically the M32s, although there was a member that found his 1.8's 5sp to be out of spec.

That said I see no reason the procedures to check and align the cables would be any difrent, so it could be a nice little DIY check for anyone having odd shifting behavior.
I may take a look at it when I have free time. All but 4>5 is normal just sitting in the car off and clutch pressed. When driving, my issues were geting into gear all the way for 2>3 for the 1st 20 mins or so of driving and into 1st for slowing down for stopsigns anytime.
 

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Subscribed - thanks a TON for posting this. I'll be checking mine out simply out of curiosity. My car seems to shift fine as is, but there's always a chance it's out of alignment, even just slightly.
 

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View attachment 20713

The flat black piece I'm pointing to in the pic. It goes in and out.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
When I installed my short shifter I must have pushed this in without realizing and for my 2014 manual lt, I couldn’t get into reverse 5th and 6th. I thought I did something wrong but this was the problem and a very quick fix. Thank you would’ve never found it on my own
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
When I installed my short shifter I must have pushed this in without realizing and for my 2014 manual lt, I couldn’t get into reverse 5th and 6th. I thought I did something wrong but this was the problem and a very quick fix. Thank you would’ve never found it on my own
I literally just said this to someone in the facebook group maybe a week ago.
 
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