When vehicle is being towed, remove fuses F15, F23, F26 and F27 ???

The manual gives the following information for the fuses that are recommended to be removed when the vehicle is flat towed (all 4 wheels on the ground) behind another vehicle (in this case an RV).
Fuse F15: Body Control Module 1
Fuse F23: Passive Entry / Passive Start
Fuse F26: Ignition Switch
Fuse F2: Blower

Obviously, I will be turning everything off (AC, Blower, Radio, ...) when the car is being towed.

The key suppose to be in the "ACC/ASSESSORY" (1) position while being towed
FYI, there are 4 ignition key positions:
0) Stopping the Engine/LOCK/OFF
1) ACC/ASSESSORY
2) ON/RUN
3) START

My concern is not so much the battery but I am wondering whether I could damage the car (somehow) by leaving the fuses in while towing the vehicle ???

Thanks for everyone's feedback !!!

Best to use one of these, 825 bucks.



With a FWD, good question, would your odometer be clocking? Another good question, where are the towing hooks. Suppose you can use chains to the wishbones. Course, another question is how are you towing it? Those fenders do have brake and directional signal lamps.

What is your towing vehicle? Guess I have these questions as well, have a motorhome with a class III hitch on it, kicked this around. For one thing, don't want to be in a situation where you have to back up. Just mounted a bike rack on it.

We always used our 04 Cavalier to carry our kayak, requires both front and rear tie downs. And every car top carrier I looked at requires a front tie down, where are the tow hooks on the Cruze, but not only the Cruze, all small vehicles are this way, even crossovers, all plastic up front. Just threw in the towel, 88 Supra got this job, massive tow hooks, Cavalier was the same way.

Know there is a 50 mile limit with an AT, good question on an AT, but if the front wheels ain't turning should not be a problem. Also a brain twister why those fuses have to be removed, can't even visualize how any kind of towing bar could be used on these things. Did use a towing bar on my Model A to get it home, but had to disconnect the steering linkage first. Not an easy job with a steering rack.

Ha, new problems that were never problems before.

With a FWD, good question, would your odometer be clocking?

• Newer car models should not but I don’t know for sure, yet.

Another good question, where are the towing hooks. Suppose you can use chains to the wishbones.

• Installed Blue Ox baseplate! blueox.com/products/baseplates/bx1698-chevy-cruze-limited-all-models/

Course, another question is how are you towing it?

• Behind a RV / flat towing / four wheels down.

Those fenders do have brake and directional signal lamps.

• Installed electrical cable harness in the Cruze such that I can use build in lights and indicator when in tow / electrically connected to RV.

What is your towing vehicle?

• 31 foot Class C RV

Guess I have these questions as well, have a motorhome with a class III hitch on it, kicked this around.

• I do have a Class III hitch

For one thing, don't want to be in a situation where you have to back up.

• I am very careful when driving to avoid situation like this otherwise I unhitch!

Just mounted a bike rack on it.

• Use double hitch: amazon.com/Bicycle-Receiver-Adapter-Extender-Extension/dp/B000P6CJ9O

We always used our 04 Cavalier to carry our kayak, requires both front and rear tie downs. And every car top carrier I looked at requires a front tie down, where are the tow hooks on the Cruze, but not only the Cruze, all small vehicles are this way, even crossovers, all plastic up front.

• This is where the baseplate comes in handy! Hook up loops for safety chains!

Know there is a 50 mile limit with an AT, good question on an AT, but if the front wheels ain't turning should not be a problem.

• Sorry I don’t know what an AT is?

Also a brain twister why those fuses have to be removed, can't even visualize how any kind of towing bar could be used on these things. Did use a towing bar on my Model A to get it home, but had to disconnect the steering linkage first. Not an easy job with a steering rack.

• Wheels will just follow direction as long steering wheel is not looked in. Not a problem!

cruzeuse said:

I am about to tow my 2017 Chevy Cruze (manual transmission) for the first time. Usually towing time is anywhere between 2 to 5 hours maybe 5 -10 times per year, so not every often.

The user manual states: "To prevent the battery from draining while the vehicle is being towed, remove fuses F15, F23, F26 and F27 from the instrument-panel fuse block."

Question: Does anybody has any experience with leaving the fuses in (not removing them) ???

If it affects only the battery I am not so concerned but can I damage the car by towing it with the fuses still plugged in?

Thanks for your feedback!

Click to expand...

I'm no expert on the 2017 Cruze but I have done a lot of RV towing, both flat-towing and dolly. In my opinion your answer lies with the beginning of the manual quote..."To prevent the battery from draining while the vehicle is being towed...".

It sounds like you've done some towing before and are already familiar with the concerns about battery drain. Since the key has to be set to ACC, the battery can drain down a bit if you happen to do long distances on your journey (some folks go 10-12 hrs a day). Leaving the ACC on for that long can put a drain on a weak battery, especially in hot summer weather.

I would venture to guess if there were anything different about the 2017 Cruze when it comes to flat-towing, there would be special precautions/warnings in the manual in addition to the usual concerns about battery drain.

If you don't want to pull the fuses, just be mindful of how long your ACC had been on while towing. Some folks will jump in the towed car while stopped for lunch and just start it up for 5 minutes to keep a charge on the battery.

I say go for it, you already sound like you've done your homework with the hitch, wiring, etc.

Flat-Towing Cruze Automatics

This thread got me wondering if the Cruze w/Auto trans could be flat-towed. I used to own a 2002 Tacoma Prerunner w/Auto trans and was able to tow on all four wheels behind my RV thanks to a driveshaft disconnect made by Remco Industries. The Remco driveshaft disconnect was awesome and very reliable.

I checked the Remco website today (Remco : The Towing Experts) and did some random checks on Cruze automatics. For model years 2016-17, there are no Remco products that will allow flat-towing Cruze automatics, gas or diesel. Also there are NO Remco products for flat-towing Cruze diesel automatics, period. So any of the above automatic trans vehicles would need to be towed either on a dolly or car carrier trailer.

However, Remco DOES make a Transmission Pump (approx $1,400) for pre-2016 Cruze models with automatic transmission. I have no personal experience with the Transmission Pump, perhaps someone else here has.

If interested in more detail, check out Remco : The Towing Experts and use their vehicle-specific page to determine if they have something that will work for flat-towing your Cruze automatic.

Early AT's had the pump rotated by the driveshaft, did that so you could push start them, but had to go around 30 mph. Then they moved it to the front, if your starter or batter was dead, out of luck. Created new problems with a locking steering wheel and have to be in park before you can switch it off. 65 Buick has no problems in pulling a 15' camper, but in 1974, picked up a 22 footer Class C for practically nothing, energy crisis, over 3,000 motorhome manufacturers went broke.

Back then was only a buck to camp, use to go to Devils Lake, had the whole park to ourselves, today, have to make reservations a year ahead and 40 bucks per night.

Good question on that 50 mile limit with an AT, if in neutral with a FWD, not very much is turning on the inside, differential is part of the AT, that would be turning splashing fluid around.

Did make some mods to both my boat and motorhome, installed an auxiliary electric fuel pump, both have carbs, and if they sit for a couple weeks, fuel bowl is dry, had to crank the engine for a good 30 seconds before they would start. Now switch on the pump first and start instantly. Other was adding a maintenance charger, diode isolated so would not discharge the battery, motorhome has three, have a switch I close for the two cabin batteries with the third so always stay fully charge. Boat just has one, but pull that battery out for the winter time.

They say the happiest day from the day you buy a boat is the day you sell it, sure have to watch out for frost and make darn sure the block and manifold has all the water removed, wanted this for my grandkids, but they have a lot more fun in our kayak.

Seems like having a dolly is the best bet, but if only used five times per year, where do you store it? Then where are the towing hooks? 04 Cavalier had them, maybe should try to find a good used one down south someplace.

Sounds like this towed vehicle already has that trailer light package, one more wire from the towing vehicle could keep that battery fully charged while driving.

Few years ago, price of gas shot up to $4.75 a gallon, motorhome stayed parked that year. RV dealers around here charge 125 bucks per hour, definitely a DIY project. See some $300,000 ones on craiglist, low miles, few years old, can't even get $80,000.00 for them. Mine is only costing me around $150.00 per year for insurance and license plates. Instead of living in a $300,000.00 home, should live in a $10,000.00 home with a $300,000.00 motorhome parked in the driveway, this way my property taxes would be next to nothing.