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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So as the title says, this has happened since I purchased the vehicle.

If I turn the car on and then travel for a few yards no matter what speed or whatever, I feel a grind in the gas pedal just for a second then it doesn't happen again for the remainder of that trip, if I turn the car off, wait a little, then repeat, I feel that same grind after a few yards just once and the cycle goes on and on.

It kind of sounds like if you took a metal rod and scratched it against a chalk board, it isn't that loud but the feeling of it is what kind of worries me.

My dad said it could be just something shifting into place since the vehicle is now moving and not idle anymore but I was just wondering if anyone knows of this and if it is an issue or not.

Sent from my phone so if there are errors I'm sorry!
 

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There's a ABS self-test that triggers right around 11/12 MPH if you're not on the brakes. It only happens the first time after you start the car. That's completely normal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Thank God.. ever since I bought the car I thought **** was ******* up big time.

Also, is it normal to have the car shaking VERY subtly while it's in park and the engine is running? I know the engine would cause some turbulence, just don't know if it shaking the cabin slightly is normal in a Cruze or not.

Also not so Cruze-related, but if I gently use my brakes my whole car starts shaking forward and back and I thought it was a rotor issue and I asked my dad, he said I'd need new rotors. Has been happening since I bought the car. If I just break normally with direct pressure and brake to a stop, it is smooth, but once I gently start letting go of the brake you can feel the car kind of rumbling forward and back.

My brakes are fine apparently but my rotors are apparently warped from what I've been told.

Just checked and the price for machining rotors isn't bad at all, replacing is eh.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
If my car noticeably drifts to the right when driving straight, not turning the wheel at all, would that just boil down to a misaligned tire and a tire rotation needed? My dad said that'd HELP, but I might need a whole "front end alignment" to fix it completely. Not sure on that though.
 

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Thank God.. ever since I bought the car I thought **** was ******* up big time.

Also, is it normal to have the car shaking VERY subtly while it's in park and the engine is running? I know the engine would cause some turbulence, just don't know if it shaking the cabin slightly is normal in a Cruze or not.

Also not so Cruze-related, but if I gently use my brakes my whole car starts shaking forward and back and I thought it was a rotor issue and I asked my dad, he said I'd need new rotors. Has been happening since I bought the car. If I just break normally with direct pressure and brake to a stop, it is smooth, but once I gently start letting go of the brake you can feel the car kind of rumbling forward and back.

My brakes are fine apparently but my rotors are apparently warped from what I've been told.

Just checked and the price for machining rotors isn't bad at all, replacing is eh.
The car does shake very slightly when idling. It sounds to me like your rotors are warped. This doesn't affect stopping distance unless they're really warped but does pulse the brake pedal. Since they're warped I would replace the rotors when you replace the pads.
 

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If my car noticeably drifts to the right when driving straight, not turning the wheel at all, would that just boil down to a misaligned tire and a tire rotation needed? My dad said that'd HELP, but I might need a whole "front end alignment" to fix it completely. Not sure on that though.
I'd start with a full alignment. "Front end alignments" really don't do the job. Be aware, however, that the Cruze's rear wheels, like a lot of newer cars, don't have a lot of options for alignment. Rotating the tires will tell you if the problem is a bad tire - the drift will switch directions if it's a bad tire.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
If I plan on buying new rims/tires by the beginning of Summer is there really any point to spending money on an alignment/rotation or whatever if I'm just going to replace those tires by Summer time?

The drifting to the right doesn't really bother me but if when I replace all my tires that problem would be fixed, I wouldn't want to just waste money on the alignment fees and all that.

On that note, if I replace my rims/tires, should I just go ahead and get my rotors replaced too? Or just wait on the rotors until I need to have my brake pads replaced too? The whole wobbling feeling is a little annoying but definitely not enough to rush me into getting it fixed RIGHT NOW.
 

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If you're replacing the rims & tires soon I'd wait to do the alignment then. As for the rotors, I drove 100,000 miles on warped rotors and didn't worry about it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
If you're replacing the rims & tires soon I'd wait to do the alignment then. As for the rotors, I drove 100,000 miles on warped rotors and didn't worry about it.
Cool cool, so basically just deal with the drift/rotors until I get my new rims/tires. Then get the alignment on the new tires, and only replace the rotors once I need my brakes repaired as well? Sounds good!
 

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Cool cool, so basically just deal with the drift/rotors until I get my new rims/tires. Then get the alignment on the new tires, and only replace the rotors once I need my brakes repaired as well? Sounds good!
Yep. As long as the rotor pulsing doesn't bother you (you do get used to it) and doesn't impact stopping ability leave them be. I replaced warped rotors one time only to have the replacements warp in a few thousand miles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Is there an easy way to check and see if a rotor is warped just from a quick eyeball? If I can manage to see which one is warped (if it's just one) I could possibly have it machined for like .. $20 if that - if the rotor isn't too thin, that is.
 

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That I don't know.
 

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Whenever I turn my 2013 LS on, after I travel a few yards I feel a grind in t...

Is there an easy way to check and see if a rotor is warped just from a quick eyeball? If I can manage to see which one is warped (if it's just one) I could possibly have it machined for like .. $20 if that - if the rotor isn't too thin, that is.
It's doubtful just one. And no, can't visually tell. It's actually more likely uneven pad transfer than a warped rotor.

It would be best to replace both front rotors and pads with better compounds than the OEM brake stuff. Neither do well on this car with heat.
 
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