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Those are the BKR7E plugs that are probably the best plugs for performance. However, they also have a relatively short lifespan. Gap them to 0.028 and when you start feeling spark blowout replace them instead of regapping. Mine lasted less than 15,000 miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Those are the BKR7E plugs that are probably the best plugs for performance. However, they also have a relatively short lifespan. Gap them to 0.028 and when you start feeling spark blowout replace them instead of regapping. Mine lasted less than 15,000 miles.
I feel dumb asking this but what does spark blowout feel like...I guess I've only had this car that I've actually ever considered modding or customizing from stock! Or will I just feel the hesitation slowly sneak back in when it's ready to change them? If 15,000 is all I get out of them then good thing they are cheap and easy to replace lol


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Spark blowout occurs when there's more air flow through the plug tip than the spark can hold. Basically the spark is extinguished before the fuel can be injected, resulting in power drops at higher RPMs. It starts at high RPMs first but as the gap grows you'll start feeling power drops as low as 2,000 RPM.
 

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Spark blowout occurs when there's more air flow through the plug tip than the spark can hold. Basically the spark is extinguished before the fuel can be injected, resulting in power drops at higher RPMs. It starts at high RPMs first but as the gap grows you'll start feeling power drops as low as 2,000 RPM.
Oh ok makes sense! What type of spark plugs do recommend?


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This is my spark plug of choice Autolite double platinum APP3923 available from rockauto.com for $3.43 each.



A very rugged spark plug, had problems with NGK's with ceramic seal leaks, that force of combustion also hits the plug. Have 40K on mine and still like new. I gap them at 26 mils, coat the threads with anti-sieze, very light coat and torque at 18 ft-lbs. Make sure the head seats are free of carbon or won't get a good seal.

Also stretch out the springs inside of the boots so they don't hang up, about 3/8" long, and pack those boots with dielectric grease so they don't bake on.

I like to pull my plugs about every 15-20K or so and use my ground walnut shell spark plug cleaner. Always will get carbon buildup on that center electrode insulator that is conductive to shunt the spark out. Like to see that nice and white.

Those needle point plugs can't handle the heat conductivity, really a stupid idea that Bosch started with other idiots following. Coils are designed for a give joule output, unit of energy, large gaps produce a greater voltage and a lower current and also stress the coils and transistors that drive them. And you want that current to assure good firing. This stuff is all basics.

You can tilt the coil pack to make sure all four spring are contacting the plugs, put pressure on it, then swing if vertical before the final push. No need to work in the blind.

If the plug is not making good contact with the engine head, will get leaks causing blowby. Changing the plugs on the Cruze is a very pleasurable experience compared to some other vehicles.
 

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I've stopped worrying about spark plug gaps.
 

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I've stopped worrying about spark plug gaps.
Ha, I never worried about spark plug gaps, just do it. When GM first came out with the HEI in 72, were gaping a 65 mils, that was really dumb. Was a trick to gap them at 35, had a special tool for this. Talk about misfires with that large gap, also cross firing between plug wires and grounds. Took them awhile, but then changed that to 45 mils, still too much.
 

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This is my spark plug of choice Autolite double platinum APP3923 available from rockauto.com for $3.43 each.



A very rugged spark plug, had problems with NGK's with ceramic seal leaks, that force of combustion also hits the plug. Have 40K on mine and still like new. I gap them at 26 mils, coat the threads with anti-sieze, very light coat and torque at 18 ft-lbs. Make sure the head seats are free of carbon or won't get a good seal.

Also stretch out the springs inside of the boots so they don't hang up, about 3/8" long, and pack those boots with dielectric grease so they don't bake on.

I like to pull my plugs about every 15-20K or so and use my ground walnut shell spark plug cleaner. Always will get carbon buildup on that center electrode insulator that is conductive to shunt the spark out. Like to see that nice and white.

Those needle point plugs can't handle the heat conductivity, really a stupid idea that Bosch started with other idiots following. Coils are designed for a give joule output, unit of energy, large gaps produce a greater voltage and a lower current and also stress the coils and transistors that drive them. And you want that current to assure good firing. This stuff is all basics.

You can tilt the coil pack to make sure all four spring are contacting the plugs, put pressure on it, then swing if vertical before the final push. No need to work in the blind.

If the plug is not making good contact with the engine head, will get leaks causing blowby. Changing the plugs on the Cruze is a very pleasurable experience compared to some other vehicles.
Yeah I know what to do when I get them I just heard of so many options that I didn't know what to choose




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My preference based on how my ECO MT runs:

Best plug: BRK7E vPower. These are the ones you asked about in your opening post. They have the shortest lifespan however
Current plug: BRK8EIX. Not quite as good as the vPowers and the jury is still out on their life expectancy
Previous plugs: BRK7EIX. Power was about the same as the BRK8EIX but they didn't last much longer than the BRK7E. They cost 6 times as much so I won't go back to them
OEM plugs: Worst plug for low end power but the longest life span. The trade off here was to reduce the number of spark plug changes. However mine came with significant differences in gaps, which gives our ECU fits.
 

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I have to disagree with Nick. Autolite plugs are the worst plugs I have ever seen in my life! I would not put them in my lawnmower. I was given Autolite plugs by my local NAPA dealer to put in my work van and when I went to gap them I noticed the ground straps were welded to the spark plugs crooked. None of them were centered over the electrode. I checked every plug and they were all like that. Thinking I just had a bad box I took them back and they opened several new boxes from their stock and they were all like that! These weren't their cheap plugs either. They were platinum 100k mile plugs! I couldn't imagine putting something in my engine that was so poorly put together and getting 100k miles out of them. I have used NGK in my track car, race cars, race quads, and all my daily driven cars for years without thinking about it but after trying those Autolite's for my work van now I insist on using NGK plugs every time.
 

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Does spark blow out cause the Check Engine Light to come on with a Misfire code?
When my NGK7EIX started blowing out I had no CEL codes. It tends to be too intermittent to trigger the code. However, I was unable to downshift and accelerate up C-470 towards I-70 on the west side of Denver when this occurred. Needless to say I ordered my NGK8EIX from Amazon that evening and had them in a couple of days. In the few days (Monday/Tuesday => Saturday) between my first noticing blowout and the time I replaced the plugs the blowout RPM dropped from 3500 RPM to 2500 RPM, so once this starts happening you really need to deal with it.
 

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I have to disagree with Nick. Autolite plugs are the worst plugs I have ever seen in my life! I would not put them in my lawnmower. I was given Autolite plugs by my local NAPA dealer to put in my work van and when I went to gap them I noticed the ground straps were welded to the spark plugs crooked. None of them were centered over the electrode. I checked every plug and they were all like that. Thinking I just had a bad box I took them back and they opened several new boxes from their stock and they were all like that! These weren't their cheap plugs either. They were platinum 100k mile plugs! I couldn't imagine putting something in my engine that was so poorly put together and getting 100k miles out of them. I have used NGK in my track car, race cars, race quads, and all my daily driven cars for years without thinking about it but after trying those Autolite's for my work van now I insist on using NGK plugs every time.
FYI - the OEM plugs in the Cruze are NGK IFR series plugs with an AC Delco label on them.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Yeah I was leading more towards the performance plugs anyways! You can't go wrong with no hesitation and better throttle response for $10 worth of plugs and I'll change them every 15-20k miles if I get good results!

So gap them at about 0.28? I'm going to change them either today or tomorrow when my Cruze comes back from being detailed! I'll let you guys know how it goes!

KY


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0.028"
 

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I have to disagree with Nick. Autolite plugs are the worst plugs I have ever seen in my life! I would not put them in my lawnmower. I was given Autolite plugs by my local NAPA dealer to put in my work van and when I went to gap them I noticed the ground straps were welded to the spark plugs crooked. None of them were centered over the electrode. I checked every plug and they were all like that. Thinking I just had a bad box I took them back and they opened several new boxes from their stock and they were all like that! These weren't their cheap plugs either. They were platinum 100k mile plugs! I couldn't imagine putting something in my engine that was so poorly put together and getting 100k miles out of them. I have used NGK in my track car, race cars, race quads, and all my daily driven cars for years without thinking about it but after trying those Autolite's for my work van now I insist on using NGK plugs every time.
Were these genuine Autolites or Chinese counterfeits. Latter is becoming a major problem in automotive replacement parts, turning out to be a multi-billion problem that our government seems to be ignoring. Love to copy major established brands.
 
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