XtremeRevolution's Subwoofer Boxes
This thread will be dedicated to the design and sale of my custom subwoofer boxes and baffles. I've decided to make my services available to the community at an affordable price, as custom, well-built sub boxes are generally not cheap, and pre-fabricated boxes are generally junk.
If you need a subwoofer box designed and can build your own, if you have a box and want to see how a sub will sound inside it, or if you need a box designed and built by me, you've come to the right place.
Subwoofer Box Design
I offer my services for subwoofer box design free of charge
. If you need a subwoofer box designed for a sub you own or will be purchasing to put in your Cruze, please reply to this thread and provide me with the following information:
1. Make/Model of Subwoofer
2. Subwoofer's T/S parameters (Qes, Qms, Fs, Vas, Sd, Xmax, and RMS Power handling)
3. Where in the trunk you plan on placing this sub
4. Make and model of your subwoofer amplifier
5. Types of music you primarily listen to
6. Primary goal for performance (Sound quality, SPL, best use of a box you already own, smallest box possible, etc.)
Based on the above information, I will provide you with a frequency response chart of a simulation for a given sub, in a specific box, with your car's cabin pressurization gain and boundary loading (cabin transfer function) to give you an idea of what it will sound like in your car.
Subwoofer Box Sales
While I'd prefer to teach you how to build a good box, I understand that not everyone has access to the tools or space to build one, so I also offer my services for building a sub box for you should you need one built.
Single 10"-12": $195
Dual 10"-12": $235
The above pricing is for subs that require .75-1.25 cubic feet of internal volume per sub, sealed. I can provide you with a price for boxes that don't meet those dimensions or for 8" or 15" subwoofers on a case by case basis. Ported boxes will also be quoted on a case by case basis.
These boxes will be built with routed bracing and an extra thick front baffle with a recess for the sub. These will be made out of 3/4" MDF, will be precision cut and routed, free of leaks, and will be nearly indestructible. Basically, the MDF material will fail before the joints do. They will be carpeted with your choice of either Black, Charcoal, or Medium Gray carpeting
. I can substitute that for a different fabric (such as black shag, faux tiger fur, etc.) for an additional cost. A strip of speaker gasket tape and an adequate length of 12 gauge OFC wire will be included.
Prices include mineral wool as fill. Depending on where you live, expect shipping to be anywhere from $40-$80. Particularly large boxes may be more expensive, while particularly small ones may be less expensive. With double thick baffles and internal bracing, these boxes typically weigh 35-60lbs unloaded. As always, local pick-up is free. I am located in the southwest Chicago suburbs.
I was recently asked why the prices of my boxes was so high. I figured I'd copy my response here so people could get an idea of what's involved.
- I use quality materials. I use 3/4" MDF instead of 5/8" like some companies do. I use latex backed cabinet fabric so it doesn't shed, I use a gold plated terminal, and 3M Super 77 spray adhesive to hold the cabinet fabric on so it doesn't peel off like I've seen happen on countless prefabbed boxes.
- I glue my boxes together with Titebond II wood glue. This might sound like a no-brainer, but if you actually take apart a pre-fabbed box, you'll find that they aren't actually glued. They are nailed or screwed together, and they are caulked on the inside. The caulk breaks apart after a little while and the box leaks everywhere. Gluing takes far more time. My boxes don't need caulk because the glue seals it perfectly. In fact, once clamped and dried, the bond is so strong that if you try to break apart two glued pieces of MDF, the MDF breaks before the glue joint does. In other words, short of severe water damage, my boxes are indestructible, and that's a difference you can hear. My sub boxes make subs sound louder and tighter than any cheap prefabbed box you can pull off a shelf (assuming same alignment).
- Design. I design them for free, but you won't find anyone else making 4-point bracing like this at anywhere near this price. A double thick baffle with a precision flush mount made specifically for the sub you're using? You will have a hard time finding any shop that can do this well, let alone at an affordable rate. My boxes are also designed to fit in the specific car while taking up as small of a footprint as possible.
- Custom work. Let's face it, I can't work for free, and I charge a heck of a lot less than a good retail shop will. You'll find prices in the $200-$500 range. For a single sub box, here are my rounded costs. $35 on MDF, $15 on cabinet fabric, $5 for the terminal, $10 for the spray adhesive, $5 for the wall damping, and figure in another $5 for things like crown staples, screws, and speaker gasket tape. Total is around $75, and I still have to put miles on my car and spend gas going to Home Depot or Menard's to pick up materials from time to time. I'm sure some of you have seen boxes for sale online, shipped to your door for that much as it costs me to make mine, but my boxes aren't made in China; they're made in my wood shop, which brings me to my next reason:
- My carbide router bits and saw blades aren't cheap and MDF wears them out much faster than real wood. Shop vac filters aren't free. My circular saw was $200, my router was $300, my shop vac was $100, my router bits were another $200, my sliding miter saw was $350, my air compressor was $250, my crown stapler was $50, my brad nailer was $150, my drill was $200, and the list goes on and on and on. All in all, I have well over $2500 invested in tools, all of which wear down over time, and we aren't even getting into the cost of electricity to power them.
- It takes me 5-7 hours to make a box, depending on number of subs and complexity, and that doesn't include cleanup time or tool maintenance.