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Discussion Starter · #322 ·
Time for a status update!

In progress:
crzeco12's IDQ12 box - 1/2 done

Completed:
Zerosink's baffles
crzeco12's baffles

Shipping out today or tomorrow:
ShoelessJake's baffles
apr1209's IDQ12 box and baffles
terrym's 6.5" subwoofers and baffles

Not yet started:
beld2478's Dayton HF10 box
Zerosink's Dual 8" TB box
Joerg P's Single 8" TB box
 

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Discussion Starter · #326 ·
I finally finished the box for the
SSA Icon 15". Now just waiting on the sub, in the middle pic the painting isnt done. View attachment 9584 View attachment 9585 View attachment 9586
A little something I learned while building home theater speakers out of MDF is that MDF absorbs moisture like crazy. It's why you need to wear a mask when cutting MDF, and why your hands will dry out and your skin on your knuckles will start looking chapped and cracked over time. It's also why you need to seal all surfaces of MDF before attempting to paint, because the MDF will just keep absorbing. The easiest way to seal MDF is to brush over it with a 50/50 mixture of wood glue and water, and do a light sanding afterward to flatten it out. It's far cheaper and less toxic than fiberglass resin, and achieves the same results. I use it on the baffles I make for people to give them some protection from moisture in the doors. This might also show you why I always upholster or carpet my boxes instead of painting them, lol.

You cut the circles out of the bracing a bit low, lol, but it will still help strengthen the box decently well. Overall, not bad at all. A few more boxes and you'll be able to get some truly professional results.

Good work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #327 · (Edited)
That looks like a HUGE box! What's the total volume of that beast?
Between 5.1 and 5.3 cubic feet. From my PM to him:

3.875" (3-7/8") wide x 11" tall, and 31" long. Naturally, you will need to make a bend in order to make the port work.

The port itself will displace around .85-.90 cubic feet, and you need 4 cubic feet for the sub itself, so including the driver displacement and port wall displacement, build the box to a total of 5.1-5.3 cubic feet.
That is, assuming he used the specs I recommended and not something else.

eagle: what port dimensions did you end up with?
 

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The box gross vol. is 5.19 after the bracing, sub and port it 4.0 give or take. the whole project from the start was difficult. i dont have a horizontial saw so i have lowes do the big cuts and when i get home i do the finishing touches. well the guy at lowes cut my top two and bottom piece 29.785X 29.8 instead of 30X30 then the side walls all got cut at 11.1875. It all worked out after alot of sanding and short on one piece then long on the other the box volume still came out very close. The port is right under four inchs by 11.1875 by 28.75 after i sanded and routed the piece. The bracing was f%$#ed up, i wasnt going to route the top,baffle so i could add the decorative piece. Well my retard self routed the wrong side so the bottom then became the top. i was not happy, u cant see it n the pictures but at the corner where the port opens in the box i add a piece to round it and make a smooth flow. Also after messing up the braces and top i added a 15X2 piece, rounded the edges, to the new bottom for extra support. I can't wait till the sub gets here.
I do wear a resiporator at all times and tried using the paint to seal it, but now your glue and water mix is in my furture builds.
 

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what do you mean i cut the circles low in the braces. i cou;ldnt make my mind up how to cut the braces and almost went with a soild divider with the middle cut out leaving two inchs all around the box.
 

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Discussion Starter · #330 ·
what do you mean i cut the circles low in the braces. i cou;ldnt make my mind up how to cut the braces and almost went with a soild divider with the middle cut out leaving two inchs all around the box.
Well, it looks like you carved arches into the bracing that weren't necessary. I doubt the motor is wide enough to need arches that deep. You could have left more material there to add some more strength to the box. It's not a huge deal, but something to do differently next time.

Paint will never seal MDF unless you care to sit there and wait for several layers. Some people prefer Shellax, but wood glue and water does just as well for a fraction of the price. You can get some pretty impressive results if you take your time.

 

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I finished the painting i used polyurethane over the paint, one coat of primer four coats of black and four to five coats of red. I brush some acrylic paint on the edges of the box after the first coat to get the mdf to soak up a good bit and let the next coats lay out smooth. i sanded in between coats, the box may not look like it but its built strong and air tight the paint is something i need to practice with. and in the furrtuure ill try ur glue and water mix. The red mist on the black was on purpose but the amount of mist i got in some spots was not. i tried to just mist it lightly over the whole box.
All in all for only building two boxesthey come out well. i sold the first box for $175, the guy offered it, i hadnt even put it for sale yet, and im building three more starting after xmas. I appreiate your help and thanks.
 

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I was wondering, i want to change out my door speakers and want to know what speakers you recomend, i want it to be clear and smooth blending nice with the icon. Ill get an amp to so your advice and reccommendations are appreaicated. I have 3" speakers in the console, in each door there is a 6X9 spacer filled with a 5 1/4" and a 1" tweeter. In the rear deck i have two 6X9 holes. also do i need to get highs and mids or is there a speaker that does well with both.
 

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Discussion Starter · #333 ·
I was wondering, i want to change out my door speakers and want to know what speakers you recomend, i want it to be clear and smooth blending nice with the icon. Ill get an amp to so your advice and reccommendations are appreaicated. I have 3" speakers in the console, in each door there is a 6X9 spacer filled with a 5 1/4" and a 1" tweeter. In the rear deck i have two 6X9 holes. also do i need to get highs and mids or is there a speaker that does well with both.
Can you get me some pictures of those speaker locations? What are the dimensions you have to work with, including depth?
 

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Its really hard to find info on the dimensions of the speaker locations and id have to remove the doors to get to them, ill work on it but its going to take some time.
i finally got the icon and im really happy. I dont know y the guy from ssa said to tune the box at 32 cause i tuned it to 30 and it can still get lower. you were right i shouldve made port longer but im very happy and i havent even played louder than half way trying to break them in. A guy locally wants me to build him a dual 15 enclosure with two ports and the guts of the box are going to take time 10-12 hours(estimate), he already bought a design and the mdf. he wants to only pay 100 i said closer to 175, 200. anywayss im asking your advice if someone gives you the wood and design for a dual 15 enclosure, each corner wedged and three port walls for each port, plus a divder. what would be a fair price he wants the box left wood no carpet or anything. i realize this isnt alot of info and i dont do this for a living but i also dont want to lost on this. im hoping this will help get my name out. ive built one box for a person so far and they gave me an xtra 50 cause of its quaility. the cosmedics i need to learn and work on and even though ill always learn as i go, i am decent at wood work. ive built furniture and other thing since i was a teen. thank you for your help man you have helped me find a new love. Subwoofer Loudspeaker Vehicle audio Car subwoofer Audio equipment
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Discussion Starter · #335 ·
I'm glad you're happy with the box.

If the guy provides you the MDF, you should charge at least $200 for it. As you have clearly seen, it's a lot of work. If I were to build this box including carpeting and MDF, I'd charge at least $350 for it without thinking twice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #336 ·
Status update:

In progress:
beld2478's Dayton HF 10 box
Zerosink's Dual 8" TB box

Not yet started:
spry's Single 8" TB box
Joerg P's Single 8" TB box

To anyone who made an order, I apologize for the delay. I trust that you will remain understanding as this has been a busy last couple of months with the death of my father in law, leaving me with critical things that need attending to. I will not rush anything I make for anyone as I want to make sure I take the time to do it well and pay the same close attention to detail that I have in the past.
 

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I put a set of the cwm6kit in the front doors and the other set of cwm6kits with two American Bass sq6cb in this box i made. in the box is two crossovers and ploy-fill.
 

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1. Fi SP4 15"
2.
Fs: 27.6 Hz | 27.9 Hz
Re: 0.65 Ohms/coil | 1.27 Ohms/coil
Qms: 6.56 | 6.45
Qes: .52 | .52
Qts: .48 | .48
Mms: 434g | 424g
Cms: 0.77mm/N | 0.77mm/N
Sd: 810cm^2 | 810cm^2
Vas: 70.4 l | 70.4 l
Spl: 86.4dB 1W/1m | 86.5dB 1W/1m
Bl: 13.7 N/A | 19.1 N/A
Xmax: 33mm | 33mm
Rms: 3000W | 3000W
Sealed box: 2-3.5cuft | 2-3.5 cuft
Ported box: 3-5cuft | 3-5cuft
Sub OD: 15.625” | 15.625”
Cut ID: 14.125” | 14.125”
Mounting depth: 11.250” | 11.250”
Displacement: 0.21cuft | 0.21cuft
3.Seal off the trunk, port on drivers side, subwoofer on the passenger side.
4.Crescendo BC3500D
5.Hip hop, rap, rock, country, decaf
6.I am looking to have at least a good amount of trunk space left, and I am looking for a box design to play the lows extremely well.
I noticed that you are a very knowledgeable man with great amount of talent. I am in no hurry to have your feedback, I still need to purchase all of the items I need, so take your time, and sorry to hear about what happened.
Thank you.
 

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Hey man! I've kinda already got an idea of what I wanted to do. I wanted do build a ported box tuned around 28Hz, but maybe you will tell me I should do something different after I answer these few questions.

1. Make/Model of Subwoofer
Hifonics BRZ15D4 (15")

2. Subwoofer's T/S parameters (Qes, Qms, Fs, Vas, Sd, Xmax, and RMS Power handling)
Qes: 0.58
Qms: 3.5
Fs: 21Hz
Vas: 200L
Sd: 0.08sqM
Xmax: 15.5mm
RMS: 600W (I'm pushing 500W to it)

3. Where in the trunk you plan on placing this sub
Plan on making a rear-firing box. Want the back of the box to be up against the rear seats inside the trunk, perhaps even have a slanted back to the box.

4. Make and model of your subwoofer amplifier
Kenwood KAC-8105D (1000W max, 500W RMS @2 ohms)

5. Types of music you primarily listen to
Rap/Hip-Hop, Electronic/Dubstep/Trap/House/EDM/etc., music with heavy bass in the 25Hz-45Hz range

6. Primary goal for performance (Sound quality, SPL, best use of a box you already own, smallest box possible, etc.)
The box can be as big as is necessary, pure SPL for longer and heavier bass notes (rap&electronic bass) from around 25Hz-42Hz.
 

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Discussion Starter · #340 · (Edited)
1. Fi SP4 15"
2.
Fs: 27.6 Hz | 27.9 Hz
Re: 0.65 Ohms/coil | 1.27 Ohms/coil
Qms: 6.56 | 6.45
Qes: .52 | .52
Qts: .48 | .48
Mms: 434g | 424g
Cms: 0.77mm/N | 0.77mm/N
Sd: 810cm^2 | 810cm^2
Vas: 70.4 l | 70.4 l
Spl: 86.4dB 1W/1m | 86.5dB 1W/1m
Bl: 13.7 N/A | 19.1 N/A
Xmax: 33mm | 33mm
Rms: 3000W | 3000W
Sealed box: 2-3.5cuft | 2-3.5 cuft
Ported box: 3-5cuft | 3-5cuft
Sub OD: 15.625” | 15.625”
Cut ID: 14.125” | 14.125”
Mounting depth: 11.250” | 11.250”
Displacement: 0.21cuft | 0.21cuft
3.Seal off the trunk, port on drivers side, subwoofer on the passenger side.
4.Crescendo BC3500D
5.Hip hop, rap, rock, country, decaf
6.I am looking to have at least a good amount of trunk space left, and I am looking for a box design to play the lows extremely well.
I noticed that you are a very knowledgeable man with great amount of talent. I am in no hurry to have your feedback, I still need to purchase all of the items I need, so take your time, and sorry to hear about what happened.
Thank you.
Generally speaking, you shouldn't expecting a vented SPL-oriented 15" sub to leave you much trunk space. That's the nature of the beast.

Here's what I would do with this sub.

3.3 cubic feet net volume.
0.21 cubic feet sub displacement.

Use three 3" double flared (aka aero) ports at 30" in length each. You will basically need to use the full length of a 3" Precision Port in addition to a second tube. You'll need to order these parts:

3x http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/flares/ports/vents/3flare-complete-kit/3x
3x The Madisound Speaker Store
3x The Madisound Speaker Store

Box will need to have an internal width of at least 33" to accommodate port length, and will need to fire to the side. 0.43 cubic feet will need to be accounted for due to port displacement.

Total gross volume for the box will be ~3.94 cubic feet, with a minimum width of 34". If you're really in a bind, you can get away with a 29" port instead and reduce the box width by 1". You'll want at least 3" from the end of the inner flare to the box side wall.

Line all of the walls (except for the baffle - the plane on which the sub mounts to) with 2.5" thick acoustic foam. This is important!
Acoustic Foam 2-1/2" x 24" x 18" UL 94 260-515

You'll have to determine how many of those sheets you need.

Set the subsonic/high pass filter to 21hz. This is important! I would highly recommend a double thick baffle, using the second layer as a flush mount. Internal bracing is also highly recommended at this power level. Let me know if you have any questions.
 
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