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XtremeRevolution's Subwoofer Boxes

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XtremeRevolution's Subwoofer Boxes

This thread will be dedicated to the design and sale of my custom subwoofer boxes and baffles. I've decided to make my services available to the community at an affordable price, as custom, well-built sub boxes are generally not cheap, and pre-fabricated boxes are generally junk.

If you need a subwoofer box designed and can build your own, if you have a box and want to see how a sub will sound inside it, or if you need a box designed and built by me, you've come to the right place.

Subwoofer Box Design

I offer my services for subwoofer box design free of charge. If you need a subwoofer box designed for a sub you own or will be purchasing to put in your Cruze, please reply to this thread and provide me with the following information:

1. Make/Model of Subwoofer
2. Subwoofer's T/S parameters (Qes, Qms, Fs, Vas, Sd, Xmax, and RMS Power handling)
3. Where in the trunk you plan on placing this sub
4. Make and model of your subwoofer amplifier
5. Types of music you primarily listen to
6. Primary goal for performance (Sound quality, SPL, best use of a box you already own, smallest box possible, etc.)

Based on the above information, I will provide you with a frequency response chart of a simulation for a given sub, in a specific box, with your car's cabin pressurization gain and boundary loading (cabin transfer function) to give you an idea of what it will sound like in your car.

Subwoofer Box Sales
While I'd prefer to teach you how to build a good box, I understand that not everyone has access to the tools or space to build one, so I also offer my services for building a sub box for you should you need one built.

Pricing:
Single 10"-12": $195
Dual 10"-12": $235


The above pricing is for subs that require .75-1.25 cubic feet of internal volume per sub, sealed. I can provide you with a price for boxes that don't meet those dimensions or for 8" or 15" subwoofers on a case by case basis. Ported boxes will also be quoted on a case by case basis.

These boxes will be built with routed bracing and an extra thick front baffle with a recess for the sub. These will be made out of 3/4" MDF, will be precision cut and routed, free of leaks, and will be nearly indestructible. Basically, the MDF material will fail before the joints do. They will be carpeted with your choice of either Black, Charcoal, or Medium Gray carpeting. I can substitute that for a different fabric (such as black shag, faux tiger fur, etc.) for an additional cost. A strip of speaker gasket tape and an adequate length of 12 gauge OFC wire will be included.

Prices include mineral wool as fill. Depending on where you live, expect shipping to be anywhere from $40-$80. Particularly large boxes may be more expensive, while particularly small ones may be less expensive. With double thick baffles and internal bracing, these boxes typically weigh 35-60lbs unloaded. As always, local pick-up is free. I am located in the southwest Chicago suburbs.

I was recently asked why the prices of my boxes was so high. I figured I'd copy my response here so people could get an idea of what's involved.

  • I use quality materials. I use 3/4" MDF instead of 5/8" like some companies do. I use latex backed cabinet fabric so it doesn't shed, I use a gold plated terminal, and 3M Super 77 spray adhesive to hold the cabinet fabric on so it doesn't peel off like I've seen happen on countless prefabbed boxes.
  • I glue my boxes together with Titebond II wood glue. This might sound like a no-brainer, but if you actually take apart a pre-fabbed box, you'll find that they aren't actually glued. They are nailed or screwed together, and they are caulked on the inside. The caulk breaks apart after a little while and the box leaks everywhere. Gluing takes far more time. My boxes don't need caulk because the glue seals it perfectly. In fact, once clamped and dried, the bond is so strong that if you try to break apart two glued pieces of MDF, the MDF breaks before the glue joint does. In other words, short of severe water damage, my boxes are indestructible, and that's a difference you can hear. My sub boxes make subs sound louder and tighter than any cheap prefabbed box you can pull off a shelf (assuming same alignment).
  • Design. I design them for free, but you won't find anyone else making 4-point bracing like this at anywhere near this price. A double thick baffle with a precision flush mount made specifically for the sub you're using? You will have a hard time finding any shop that can do this well, let alone at an affordable rate. My boxes are also designed to fit in the specific car while taking up as small of a footprint as possible.
  • Custom work. Let's face it, I can't work for free, and I charge a heck of a lot less than a good retail shop will. You'll find prices in the $200-$500 range. For a single sub box, here are my rounded costs. $35 on MDF, $15 on cabinet fabric, $5 for the terminal, $10 for the spray adhesive, $5 for the wall damping, and figure in another $5 for things like crown staples, screws, and speaker gasket tape. Total is around $75, and I still have to put miles on my car and spend gas going to Home Depot or Menard's to pick up materials from time to time. I'm sure some of you have seen boxes for sale online, shipped to your door for that much as it costs me to make mine, but my boxes aren't made in China; they're made in my wood shop, which brings me to my next reason:
  • My carbide router bits and saw blades aren't cheap and MDF wears them out much faster than real wood. Shop vac filters aren't free. My circular saw was $200, my router was $300, my shop vac was $100, my router bits were another $200, my sliding miter saw was $350, my air compressor was $250, my crown stapler was $50, my brad nailer was $150, my drill was $200, and the list goes on and on and on. All in all, I have well over $2500 invested in tools, all of which wear down over time, and we aren't even getting into the cost of electricity to power them.
  • It takes me 5-7 hours to make a box, depending on number of subs and complexity, and that doesn't include cleanup time or tool maintenance.
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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Hey XtremeRevolution,

That box looks way awesome, I really want to see if can do this on my own, that would be a mighty task in itself. I was wondering, does the box shape itself effect sound quality? Such as cube shaped as opposed to wedge shaped. You said you design the boxes for free, right? I'd like to have a go a building my sub box, so if you could work up the designs for me that would be great. Also, I was looking at the sub you recommended for me, Alpine SWR-843D (SWR843D) 8" Dual 4 ohm Type-R Car Subwoofer/Sub, and from the web photos, since i have not bought it yet, looks like you screw it to the box from the inside? is this right? or is there a small rim that just covers the screws after you screw it in from outside the box? This sounds like a ridiculous question, but from what i'm seeing I can't help but ask.
Having owned a few Type-R subs in the past, I can say that they do indeed have a trim ring that get placed over the edge to cover up the screws.

I can design you a box. Are you limited on space? This sub does very well in both ported and sealed boxes. It really comes to life in a ported box, but if you're low on space, sealed works very well too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
I was hoping to conserve as much space as possible. Is there any difference between rectangular and wedge like boxes?
Sealed will be the way to go. Doesn't matter if you go rectangular or wedge as long as you clear the sub when you mount it. The wavelengths of the frequencies this sub will play are much, much too long to be affected by the shape of the box in this size.

Go for .7 cubic feet sealed gross volume. Mounting depth is 4.525". If you want to try to make a wedge, you can use this site to help you crunch the numbers.

Speaker Enclosure Volume Calculator

If you make a double thick baffle, don't include the outer flush mount panel in those dimensions. I personally wouldn't try to make a wedge and just make a rectangular box. Due to the ridge you have right before the seats in the trunk, you won't benefit much if at all from something like that.

After seeing these pictures I want you to build my casket albeit I'm only 22. Just make sure my 4 12's have their place haha
Speaking of those 4 12s, my IDQ15 build is now going to be second priority to a new build (yours), and this one's going to be big. I brought home two 4x8 foot sheets of 3/4" MDF today. Pictures will be posted of my progress. My deadline is to drop this off at FedEx on Sunday.

 

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Discussion Starter · #46 · (Edited)
:iloveyou: HAHAHA
Got some progress done even though I haven't started cutting. I finally came up with a design I liked. This should have no problem fitting in your trunk.

Not including the double thick baffles, you're looking at 15" height x 32" width x 23.75" depth for a total of ~4.75 cubic feet with 1" edges to give you something to grab the box to lift it. Exact volume will be slightly less than that given whatever bracing actually displaces, but should be fairly close. I confirmed that the IDQ12 does work best in 1 cubic foot, but going a slight bit bigger brings your bottom end up a slight bit more. I called Dan at ID to confirm that this would work, and we're good to go in that department.

Hopefully, I'll be able to fire up the table saw tonight or tomorrow after work and get started.
 

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Got some progress done even though I haven't started cutting. I finally came up with a design I liked. This should have no problem fitting in your trunk.

Not including the double thick baffles, you're looking at 15" height x 32" width x 23.75" depth for a total of ~4.75 cubic feet with 1" edges to give you something to grab the box to lift it. Exact volume will be slightly less than that given whatever bracing actually displaces, but should be fairly close. I confirmed that the IDQ12 does work best in 1 cubic foot, but going a slight bit bigger brings your bottom end up a slight bit more. I called Dan at ID to confirm that this would work, and we're good to go in that department.

Hopefully, I'll be able to fire up the table saw tonight or tomorrow after work and get started.
Calling IDQ is going above and beyond man, I can't wait!
 

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Great thead Extreme. I am looking at building my sub box for the following Infinity 860W (860-W) 8" Single 4 ohm Reference Series Subwoofer. I would love your input on box design. I will be using 2 of the Infinity 860W that I already have. Would like to keep it small and try to utilize the least amount of space. Dont know if 1 dual box or 2 smaller single boxes would work best. If going with the 2 smaller single boxes can they be placed on the fender sides tucked in the space behind the rear wheels and facing each other without compromizing sound quaility. Looking forward to working this project along with your other thead on SQ in the Cruze. Keep up the good work...
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
Great thead Extreme. I am looking at building my sub box for the following Infinity 860W (860-W) 8" Single 4 ohm Reference Series Subwoofer. I would love your input on box design. I will be using 2 of the Infinity 860W that I already have. Would like to keep it small and try to utilize the least amount of space. Dont know if 1 dual box or 2 smaller single boxes would work best. If going with the 2 smaller single boxes can they be placed on the fender sides tucked in the space behind the rear wheels and facing each other without compromizing sound quaility. Looking forward to working this project along with your other thead on SQ in the Cruze. Keep up the good work...
.45 cubic feet gross for each sub looks good. You can use two boxes or one, doesn't really matter. I would recommend 1.5" thick acoustic foam on all of the walls except for the baffle.

Acoustic Foam 1-1/2" x 24" x 18" UL 94 260-516
 

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.45 cubic feet gross for each sub looks good. You can use two boxes or one, doesn't really matter. I would recommend 1.5" thick acoustic foam on all of the walls except for the baffle.

Acoustic Foam 1-1/2" x 24" x 18" UL 94 260-516
Thanks for the reponse. For a dual box should the subs be seperated by a divider so each sub gets .45 cubic feet or with no divider and a .90 cubic feet box.. Thanks. And What is your time frame for your SQ thread on the install as I am planning on following your lead on this.. Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
Thanks for the reponse. For a dual box should the subs be seperated by a divider so each sub gets .45 cubic feet or with no divider and a .90 cubic feet box.. Thanks. And What is your time frame for your SQ thread on the install as I am planning on following your lead on this.. Thanks again.
They can use a shared volume without a problem. I'd put a small brace in the center though.

Time frame? Who knows. My guess is 1-2 months from this point. I'm getting orders in to build sub boxes now so that's taking priority. If you have questions though, just ask.
 

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Hey xTremeRevolution,

When building the box for my 8" alpine type R sub, do I need to put the bracers in there like you have? And, I've never installed an amp or sub before so brands of wiring are quality? I understand the whole gauge concept. I just don't want to buy crap quality wiring kits.
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 · (Edited)
Hey xTremeRevolution,

When building the box for my 8" alpine type R sub, do I need to put the bracers in there like you have? And, I've never installed an amp or sub before so brands of wiring are quality? I understand the whole gauge concept. I just don't want to buy crap quality wiring kits.
For a single 8" sub, 8 gauge wire will be just fine, but make sure it's 100% oxygen-free copper. Many companies will sell you power wire that's copper clad aluminum. It's difficult to differentiate the two, but CCA has significantly less capacity and corrodes easily in engine bays. Brands don't matter as long as it's true AWG spec. Some brands will sell you a 4 gauge wire, and it will come with a thick jacket and a thin wire inside that's closer to 6 gauge or even 8 gauge, with the thick jacket making it look larger than it really is. Try avoid those. You can just go to your nearest industrial supply store and get some welding wire if you want. Amp Installation Kits, HDMI Cables has excellent power wire. For inside the box and from the box to the amp, one 12 gauge wire is more than enough.

You don't need really need to worry about bracing for that small of a sub, especially if you're using a double thick baffle. The box will be too small to flex with 3/4" MDF and an 8" sub. You could add a couple of straight bar-type braces that connect the baffle to the back panel if you wanted to though to strengthen the back panel. Something that's 2-3" wide. Just don't screw into the bracing when you mount the sub because it will split.
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 · (Edited)
Started cutting. Cutting huge pieces of MDF is harder than it looks. The MDF wasn't true on one of the edges this time. It happens sometimes. I created a heck of a lot more dust than I have in a long, long time.


Got all of the external cuts done and one of the braces. Still need to cut 6 more sheets for bracing and one more sheet for the double thick baffle for the subs that will be firing up. This box requires significantly more cuts than your typical 1-2 sub box.


Started clamping it together. I didn't have any 24" clamps, so I had to buy them and harbor freight only had 8, so I'm limited to how much I can do at a time. Oh well.




That's all for today.
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
Got the front baffle started today. I decided I was sick of breathing MDF dust and having my face covered in it, so I mounted my dust extraction kit and hooked up the shop vac. You can't really see the dust extraction bracket because it's clear


Flush mount panel holes cut


Test fitting


Since these subs are 5/8" thick, a 45 degree chamfer was used on the flush mount panel.


Got clamps?
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
Important lesson to keep in mind when building sub boxes: don't throw away scrap pieces unless they're very small.

Bonus nachos to whoever can figure out what each of these clamps do. They all serve a purpose, and they were all necessary.




 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
Looks like it may be holding each piece of bracing? Looks great BTW
Well yeah, but some of it got a bit challenging to figure out. Between the wider brace and the bottom panel, there was a gap, so I used several scrap pieces to create a lever to push it down from the inside. I also used two more scrap pieces to push the bottom of the wider brace toward the back. You'll notice that not all of those pieces have glue seeping out of them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
Random shot of the tools outside. Top panel done.


Top panel glued on.


Flush mount panel for the top subs glued on.


At this point, all of the cutting is done. I need to do some flush trim routing in the back to clean up the flush mount top panel, but otherwise I'm done creating MDF dust with this box. Two more braces are still going in for the front subs, and then the front baffle gets mounted.

I tested fitted this in box in my Cruze, and it looks good in there. Not a whole lot of room left in the trunk once you put this in there, but it definitely works. It's almost a tight fit getting the box in there through the trunk opening. Almost. It certainly will be a bit impossible to get it in there or out alone.

Just so I don't forget to say this later, be careful where you bump these subs. You may find your trunk busted open and your stuff gone one day like I did 6 or 7 years ago. These things will be very loud and very clean sounding.
 

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Is there anyway to deterrent theft? I wanted to put a huge Image dynamics sticker on my rear window but am having second thoughts... Even a Captain America logo on the rear would help someone recognize the only cruze in the area with $2000 sitting in the trunk

Is it just me or does that box look sick?
 
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