This installation guide applies to both the 1.4L turbo and 1.8L engines available in the Cruze. The 1.4T is covered first, followed by a slight variation that is found with 1.8L installation (thanks to Smurfenstein for the 1.8 info/pictures!)
This simple how-to illustrates how to install XtremeRevolution's Big 3 cable kit. For information on what the Big 3 kit is and where to purchase one, visit this link: http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/36-gen1-audio-electronics/200442-big-3-kits-f-s.html
While this tutorial is designed to be a pictorial how-to, here is a link to a Youtube video that Terry made on how he installed his: How to install your big three kit. - YouTube
TOOLS REQUIRED:
Step 1:
Organize your parts. You should receive from XR:
Step 2:
Remove ground cable from the battery using a 10mm socket or wrench. If you are unsure of which one it is, you may not want to attempt this modification.
Step 3:
Locate the three studs (RED arrow points at them below) on the front cross member, just behind the driver's side headlight:
![Image]()
Using 13mm socket, remove the nut as shown by the BLUE arrow in the pic below. Leave the existing wire on the stud. Grab the shortest of the three cables from the kit and put one end on the stud. Thread nut back on while making sure it sits flat on the other wire end on that stud:
![Image]()
Step 4:
Gently curve that cable up toward the ground post on the front end of the battery. There's plenty of cable, so no need to make it go tight. It looks to make a tighter bend in my pic here than it really does. Remove the 13mm nut from the post as indicated by the RED arrow below and connect the other end of the cable there. I then disconnected the entire cable from the post just let the system reset itself to the new settings, since the computer likes that:
![Image]()
Step 5:
Get the second longest cable (shortest remaining) from your parts and connect one end on the stud indicated by the BLUE arrow below. Again, make sure it doesn't conflict with the other wire on there. The nut is also 13mm:
![Image]()
Step 6:
Route the second longest cable toward the front of the engine. See pic below for how I routed it. Terry says you can go in front of the hoses, but I'm not sure, in order to make it bolt on straight. (Please excuse the dirty engine- will clean soon when weather cooperates) I think it's better like this:
![Image]()
Step 7:
Connect the last end of the second cable to the threaded hole in the engine with the short 14mm bolt included with Terry's kit:
![]()
![Image]()
Step 8:
This is by far the trickiest yet. Stand on the right side of your car, leaning in over the engine/right fender. You'll see the alternator toward the back side of the serpentine belt trail. Reach around to the back of the alternator (toward left side of the car) and you should feel a stud/nut on the back there, toward the edge. It's also 14mm, but may be 13mm depending on the year of your car. Remove the this nut, while being careful that no wires fall off. I actually found it easier to use a ratchet wrench of the same size here instead of the socket due to reaching over like that and only having one hand down there. Put the end of the remaining (longest) cable on the alternator stud and reinstall the nut. I draped the other end of the cable over the top of the engine for the time being.
Alternator as found, without added cable. You will remove and reinstall the nut circled:
View attachment 259457
Alternator with cable attached, as circled:
View attachment 259458
This picture shows how to route the cable once installed. Note the circled nut in the lower right, view from the other way:
View attachment 259466
View going toward the battery:
View attachment 259473
View attachment 259449
Step 9:
Lift up the terminal bus cover on the positive side of the battery. Remove the 13mm nut as indicated by the BLUE arrow below. Grab the cable from on top of the engine, snake it a decent route to the area, and put it on the stud. Reinstall the 13mm nut.
In order for the cover to close, the there's no good way for the cable to enter this area. As indicated by the RED arrow below, there was a small plastic tab sticking up there between the two wire ends coming up there. I took a short pair of needle nose pliers and simply snapped this piece off easily, to give the wire space to travel through. Then snap the terminal bus cover back down:
View attachment 259481
![Image]()
Step 10:
Since this positive cable does touch some very hot hoses, I saw the chance to cable-tie the cable to the wiring harness right there to keep it spaced out from the coolant hoses:
![Image]()
View attachment 259489
Step 11:
Reconnect the battery ground cable to the battery.
Step 12:
Record your mileage and other critical stats to enter on your service/modification log:
![Image]()
Step 13:
Start it up to make sure everything works and reset your clock. I'm seeing about 14.4-14.5 volts at idle now.
FOR THE 1.8L NA ENGINE IN THE CRUZE LS:
Step 6 in the 1.4T procedure is slightly different. The bolt that goes into the front of the engine (holding the bracket in this case) requires a e12 6-point socket to remove and install the cable with. See pictures below:
![]()
This simple how-to illustrates how to install XtremeRevolution's Big 3 cable kit. For information on what the Big 3 kit is and where to purchase one, visit this link: http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/36-gen1-audio-electronics/200442-big-3-kits-f-s.html
While this tutorial is designed to be a pictorial how-to, here is a link to a Youtube video that Terry made on how he installed his: How to install your big three kit. - YouTube
TOOLS REQUIRED:
- 14mm socket with ratchet or wrench of the same size
- 13mm socket with ratchet or wrench of the same size
- 10mm socket with ratchet or wrench of the same size
- Side cutters/scissors
- Small pair of regular pliers or needle nose pliers
Step 1:
Organize your parts. You should receive from XR:
- Three (3) cables, of three different lengths.
- Short bolt
- Various cable ties
Step 2:
Remove ground cable from the battery using a 10mm socket or wrench. If you are unsure of which one it is, you may not want to attempt this modification.
Step 3:
Locate the three studs (RED arrow points at them below) on the front cross member, just behind the driver's side headlight:
Using 13mm socket, remove the nut as shown by the BLUE arrow in the pic below. Leave the existing wire on the stud. Grab the shortest of the three cables from the kit and put one end on the stud. Thread nut back on while making sure it sits flat on the other wire end on that stud:
Step 4:
Gently curve that cable up toward the ground post on the front end of the battery. There's plenty of cable, so no need to make it go tight. It looks to make a tighter bend in my pic here than it really does. Remove the 13mm nut from the post as indicated by the RED arrow below and connect the other end of the cable there. I then disconnected the entire cable from the post just let the system reset itself to the new settings, since the computer likes that:
Step 5:
Get the second longest cable (shortest remaining) from your parts and connect one end on the stud indicated by the BLUE arrow below. Again, make sure it doesn't conflict with the other wire on there. The nut is also 13mm:
Step 6:
Route the second longest cable toward the front of the engine. See pic below for how I routed it. Terry says you can go in front of the hoses, but I'm not sure, in order to make it bolt on straight. (Please excuse the dirty engine- will clean soon when weather cooperates) I think it's better like this:
Step 7:
Connect the last end of the second cable to the threaded hole in the engine with the short 14mm bolt included with Terry's kit:
Step 8:
This is by far the trickiest yet. Stand on the right side of your car, leaning in over the engine/right fender. You'll see the alternator toward the back side of the serpentine belt trail. Reach around to the back of the alternator (toward left side of the car) and you should feel a stud/nut on the back there, toward the edge. It's also 14mm, but may be 13mm depending on the year of your car. Remove the this nut, while being careful that no wires fall off. I actually found it easier to use a ratchet wrench of the same size here instead of the socket due to reaching over like that and only having one hand down there. Put the end of the remaining (longest) cable on the alternator stud and reinstall the nut. I draped the other end of the cable over the top of the engine for the time being.
Alternator as found, without added cable. You will remove and reinstall the nut circled:
View attachment 259457
Alternator with cable attached, as circled:
View attachment 259458
This picture shows how to route the cable once installed. Note the circled nut in the lower right, view from the other way:
View attachment 259466
View going toward the battery:
View attachment 259473
View attachment 259449
Step 9:
Lift up the terminal bus cover on the positive side of the battery. Remove the 13mm nut as indicated by the BLUE arrow below. Grab the cable from on top of the engine, snake it a decent route to the area, and put it on the stud. Reinstall the 13mm nut.
In order for the cover to close, the there's no good way for the cable to enter this area. As indicated by the RED arrow below, there was a small plastic tab sticking up there between the two wire ends coming up there. I took a short pair of needle nose pliers and simply snapped this piece off easily, to give the wire space to travel through. Then snap the terminal bus cover back down:
View attachment 259481
Step 10:
Since this positive cable does touch some very hot hoses, I saw the chance to cable-tie the cable to the wiring harness right there to keep it spaced out from the coolant hoses:
View attachment 259489
Step 11:
Reconnect the battery ground cable to the battery.
Step 12:
Record your mileage and other critical stats to enter on your service/modification log:
Step 13:
Start it up to make sure everything works and reset your clock. I'm seeing about 14.4-14.5 volts at idle now.
FOR THE 1.8L NA ENGINE IN THE CRUZE LS:
Step 6 in the 1.4T procedure is slightly different. The bolt that goes into the front of the engine (holding the bracket in this case) requires a e12 6-point socket to remove and install the cable with. See pictures below:
