Take it back to the dealership, have them recheck and top off.

Could be be as simple as air in the cooling system or something else. Best to have them document it in case it's the latter.

 

I'd definitely take it in fast while you have power train warranty. I doubt it's a head gasket but you never know. Get them to fix it while it's still free!

 

I believe there is a thread by @XtremeRevolution that says there is no way to tell if you got all the air out of the system, so you need to periodically check and top off. The dealer should do this for you under warranty.

 

What about doing a vacuum fill?

 

Thanks for your suggestions, I will take it back to the dealership to see what's up. Fingers crossed its covered by warranty.

 

Air in the system shouldn't drain it that much. You either have a bad water pump (yeah, it happens) or you have another leak. The second most common point is the water outlet on the right side (as you look at the engine) of the engine block. This has been redesigned. Unfortunately it's not covered by the power train warranty. Fortunately it's not an expensive repair.

 

The second most common point is the water outlet on the right side (as you look at the engine) of the engine block. This has been redesigned. Unfortunately it's not covered by the power train warranty. Fortunately it's not an expensive repair.

Actually, it is covered. But the dealer has to enter the part description correctly. IIRC, the redesign requires a different hose and that's not covered.

The other place to check is the coolant tank itself. Some members have reported that theirs has cracked. Most often right where it connects to the hoses.

 

Sounds like the water outlet isn't tightened on the head correctly. The fluid leaks and burns off while the engine is running because it is a small leak. Have them replace the water outlet and tighten to specs and would lay my bottom dollar your coolant problems end. It is a piece of junk plastic piece that never should of been plastic. Water outlet is covered under the power train warranty.

Breathed coolant fumes off and on for the first five years I had my car and checked coolant constantly and was losing very little but could never see a leak because it was a small leak and was burning off on the head. All my coolant problems stopped when I had my water outlet replaced.

If my headaches stop now that I am not driving my Cruze I will not be happy.

 

Just took it to the dealer, service writer says he smells coolant under the hood (I don't smell it) and will test further. Let's see what they can find. Thanks all.

UPDATE: dealer called, they said they pressure tested it for 2 hours without finding a leak and topped off the coolant as it may just be a an air bubble following the water pump replacement. Hopefully it is true. Could any of the aforementioned causes lead to a false-negative pressure test? I will be driving it a lot in the coming weeks so that will be a final test.

 

The fact that the service writer could smell coolant under the hood means you have a leak, somewhere. Also, while air in the system can lower the coolant level up to an inch it won't lower it to none, unless they didn't fill the coolant properly in the first place. The proper fill method is to open the hood, fill the coolant to the top of the arrow (top rib/seam) and start the engine. As the engine runs it will pump coolant into the system and force air out. As the air comes out you add more coolant to keep the tank level steady. Turn the engine off after the tank level stops dropping. Let the car cool off and then fill to the "full" line again. You'll still have some air left in the system but not enough to empty the tank.

One other thought, have them put the florescent coolant dye in the system. There is exactly one place in the system dealerships cannot pressure test. This is the cap to tank seal. If this is bad two visible things will happen - first, the coolant will seep out the cap and into the channel on the top of the tank. The dye makes this very obvious. The second thing that will happen is if you pull the cap off while the engine is cool and look between the two O-rings you'll see coolant there. There should be no coolant between the O-rings. Below the bottom one is the tank. Above the top one is the pressure relief valve. Between them means the bottom o-ring isn't holding the required 20 PSI, leading to coolant loss and odor.

 

In my experience in "shadetree" coolant leak fixes, some leaks will happen at specific temps or pressures. What I'd suggest is that when you get your car home (I'm assuming it will have reached full operating temperature), shut it down. pop the hood, and keep a watch for the next 10 minutes or so. That's worked like a charm for me.

 

Thanks for all the suggestions! So the dealer had it pressure tested (again) for > 2 hours and found nothing. They also inspected water pump and water outlet and found no leaks. They returned the car saying that it was probably an air bubble. We're now two weeks later and the coolant tank is less than 50% full again. I've been monitoring levels every morning and it drops more depending on how much I drive it. Clearly its still losing coolant somewhere. Called the dealer again and they're saying they really don't know what it could still be but they're taking another look tomorrow. Not sure what they will be looking for at this point and how they will approach it? I've noticed the engine is quite sluggish and vibrates briefly when I first start it up after it has cooled off. The temperature gauge does not indicate overheating. What could it still be at this point? They did not add the dye last time because they said the pressure test should have ruled it out. I guess it could still be the cap but that's a lot of coolant to lose in two weeks through the cap without any obvious stains or moistness in that area?

 

All my pressure tests came out negative and they could not take care of my smell or slight coolant loss for four years. My coolant stop going going away permanently until the water pump and water outlet were replaced at pretty much the same time. I went ahead and replaced the coolant cap for kicks but ever since I did those two things I loss zero coolant. I am just telling you my experience and how my coolant loss stopped so your mileage may vary. Water outlet is a piece of junk. If they replace anything in your cooling system go ahead and pay for it to replace it even if they don't want to because it is only a 30 dollar part.

 

Had similar issues with my 2013 2LT. Pressure tested fine at deal #1 (car purchased from there). Coolant loss wasn't as large as yours, but still noticeable. Took it to another dealer (#2) and they said it was the water pump. "Water pump leaking at lower vent, replace water pump" <- from work order. If your car hasn't had its water pump replaced I think that could be a good place to start. Die is another option as others have posted.

 

Yeah water pump was found leaking about 4-5 weeks ago, but after replacement problem still persists. They (and I) are at a loss of what is going on.

 

My dealership added the GM Florescent cooling system dye to track down my leak. This is the only way I figured it was the lower o-ring (as installed on tank) on the coolant pressure cap.

 

There is some white smoke actually while it rough at startup. It takes a few seconds to half a minute at most and after that it's ok. It's been happening more frequent lately. I'll ask them to check carefully for internal leaks. What are other ways this can be checked?

 

There is some white smoke actually while it rough at startup.

Make sure you tell them that. That strongly indicates a head gasket.

A compression check may show something as well.

 

I was going to suggest the same thing, but you beat me to it;>)

 

Make sure the coolant is not the traditional 50/50 mix of antifreeze water. These engines run at 227 degrees normal temp. A 50/50 mix does not give sufficient boil protection. The coolant bubbles, and the vapors escape, slowly depleting coolant levels. Seems GM did not inform their mechanics effectively on this issue, and many refill with a 50/50 mix after servicing. I suggest not using anything less than a 70/30 antifreeze/water ratio.

 

Dexcool in the Cruze is supposed to be a 50/50 mix.

 

Don't forget what the Cruze has for coolant. The infamous Dexcool, also commonly known as dexkill or deathcool. This stuff can quickly turn into a brown waxy substance, and completely plug up the coolant system if left in for more than 2-3 years. GM's claim of 5 years is BS. When looking for a leak, don't just look for liquid. Look for this thick brown stuff. I have seen huge amounts of this stuff built up around a leak. The liquid part disappears, while depositing more and more of the brown substance. "Dexcool" is the only coolant currently made and used today that is known to have this problem. I have not seen any other vehicles besides GM with this problem, so it is specific to Dexcool.

 

So, two months later, it turns out it is still losing coolant and I lost about half the reservoir since last time.

At first it seemed like things were going well (no coolant loss first four weeks after head replacement) and it seemed like I was even getting better gas mileages (but perhaps because I was driving longer distances). I took it back to the garage where it was pressure tested again (perhaps leaky o-ring or connector after replacing engine head and reconnecting everything). The mechanic marked the reservoir where he topped it off at and added fluorescent dye. I'm going to come back in four weeks. Did not ask about water/dexcool ratio and will make sure to mention that next time.

 

I took it back to the garage where it was pressure tested again (perhaps leaky o-ring or connector after replacing engine head and reconnecting everything). The mechanic marked the reservoir where he topped it off at and added fluorescent dye. I'm going to come back in four weeks. Did not ask about water/dexcool ratio and will make sure to mention that next time.

Any progress for your problem? Are you still losing coolant?

 

Hi , Did you manage to solve the problem ?I am facing same issue and I do not have warranty its 2012 chevrolet cruze .its tarted with mechanic noticed the oil traces in coolant tank during normal oil and filter change service and recommend to replace oil cooler assembly which I did .However , after 2 months while on log drive I noticed that coolant was empty and I top it off.After few kilometers drive on stop I noticed coolant was leaking so in urgency I took it to random mechanic who replaced the water pump but after few days I found coolant tank to empty and this time my regular mechanic changed O rings then thermostat housing but coolant still disappearing .I have already spend $596 but it has not yet resolved.

 

Keep your receipts as this is covered by an extended warranty.

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Read this for more info:

Turbo destroyed after 40,500 Miles (Water pump too!)-...

Turbo destroyed after 40,500 Miles (Water pump too!)- Warranty & Oil Change advice 2012 Cruze 1LT 1.4 40,500 Miles. All recall items done, oil changed as reminded by Car's Oil life system. Hello all- I haven't posted in, like, forever- so if this has been covered- pardon the repeat. This is...

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Not trying to hijack the thread but..

I actually brought my car back to the dealer and let them know in great detail about what's happening. I'm not taking the car back until it's thoroughly diagnosed and the coolant leak is fixed.

The dealer recommended that I call GM directly (for which I have the number) and let GM know that I've visited the dealer multiple times for the same issue. They also said that if the car turns out to be a lemon, I can try to have GM buy the car back. They have the documentation to corroborate my problems. I don't think that situation will happen but it's an avenue that's available given the circumstances. Maybe something to consider.

 

They also said that if the car turns out to be a lemon, I can try to have GM buy the car back.

What year is your car? I'd doubt that a Gen 1 (2011-2016) still qualifies for a Lemon by-back. Gen2 is a different animal.

 

It's a 2015.

Let me rephrase my "lemon" comment.

The dealer, as well as a specialist from Chevy direct, mentioned a vehicle buyback an available option if I wanted to go that route.

The dealer suggested this because I was saying I wasn't going to pay for repairs if a warranty claim related to the ongoing coolant issue was denied & if they try to foot me a sky rocketed repair bill. Considering I've brought it back multiple times for the same related issue while under warranty, I think it's only fair.

I told the dealer and Chevy that I prefer to have the repairs done rather than opt for a buyback. My stipulation is that I'm not paying for work I've been constantly and proactively trying to address for the last 4-6 months while the car was under warranty. I've replaced the water pump this year and went through 2 coolant reservoirs. The reservoirs weren't covered under warranty.

The Chevy specialist sounded as if they were powerless to affect any desirable outcome regarding a good faith service and perhaps this was the reason they asked me if I was interested in a buy back.

 

Hey, if they'll do that, it's great. (I think - the devil is in the details) I'm just surprised it's on the table.

 

Just to follow up on my own issue (might help others with this info):

Dealer took apart the engine. They found:

-Cracked head gasket (i expected that)
-Warped cylinder head and bolts
-Turbo was cracked
*Turbo gasket was cracked
*Spring nut was warped
*Turbo pipe and connector was "damaged"
-Camshaft seal was cracked
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dealer stated the only things that are not covered under 100k PT warranty was the turbo, parts related to the turbo and the labor related to repairs for the turbo.

My car has overheated 2 times prior (warranting the reservoir being replaced 2x and the water pump GASKET, not the actual water pump as previously stated, also being replaced) so the effects of those over heats may have contributed to the turbo crack and excessive coolant drain I've been experiencing prior to landing the car at the dealer. And apparently, the turbo is on back order. Dealer states that turbos aren't available form other dealers nationwide at the moment.

 

The turbo was explicitly covered in my 2012 powertrain warranty. Check your warranty book. That entire repair should be a powertrain warranty.

 

I had the same issue on my Cruze (2014 Eco), rough idle for about 20 seconds after start, coolant drain but no drips anywhere, coolant smell on startup, and the auto start would not work. No codes were thrown. The issue turned out to be a cracked head, which let coolant into one of the cylinders. The head was replaced under warranty and the problems stopped.

 

Member since last year July, where ya been hidin'? What was the manufacture date?

 

White smoke is engine coolant tampaure sensor n when there bad they can leak cost bout 11 bucks on Amazon for the part and takes about 5 mins to replace

 

Welcome Aboard!

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me too turned out to be the radiator cap

 

Welcome Aboard!

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My car has the same problem.
Have you found a solution? Any recommendations about what I can do?

 

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