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new coolant leak

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coolant leak
130K views 35 replies 19 participants last post by  JoBivins30  
#1 · (Edited)
I check under the hood often and this is one of the reasons why, I just spotted a new leak. It appears like its coming from where the hose and connector join. Can I unclip the connector and seperate it without worrying about coolant spilling everywhere after the system is cold ? Im thinking if that end of the hose that goes into the connector is all part of the hose I can just replace the entire hose myself. Here is a look.

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#2 ·
Some coolant will be lost so plan on adding.

There is a 'O'ring around the nipple that you will see once the clip is pulled and hose removed....I guess 200k plus miles is starting to show.
'O' ring is probably turned to rock by now.
Be very gentle.....the plastic ends become very brittle in their old age.....if a replacement hose (will have nipples included) is available, I'd probably change the whole thing.
I'm basing my thoughts on thermal cycling.....you have far more than the average 30k driver on the forum and this may make 'O'ring replacement a bit dicey.

Rob
 
#3 · (Edited)
I agree with Robby about just replacing the entire hose. I was talking to my Service Manager he said it's actually easier to replace the entire hose when this happens.
 
#4 ·
The coolant will evaporate quickly so I wouldn't worry about a fire. If you're concerned run water down onto your engine shield to dilute the coolant. As for air in the system, you will definitely have air in there. The fill procedure is as follows:

With the engine cold, open the surge tank. Fill a 50/50 mix of coolant/distilled water to the top of the arrow. Start the engine and let it idle. When you see coolant starting to come back in via the small return hose top off the tank again to the top of the arrow and then put the coolant lid back on. Keep an eye on the coolant level for the next couple of thousand miles (a week at your driving patterns will be sufficient) and then top off the tank again.
 
#6 ·
Here are two pictures of the coolant recovery hose I replaced because of a small leak. Apparently the one on the left is the old version and the one on the right is the new version. I checked the 2014 cruzes at the dealership and they use the same design as my 2012. So apparently GM changed the design of this hose sometime this year.

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#36 ·
The part where the recovery hose snaps into the water outlet that can be removed with the metal clip, does anyone know what this is called and if it can be purchased separately? If so, what is the part number? Thanks!

Here are two pictures of the coolant recovery hose I replaced because of a small leak. Apparently the one on the left is the old version and the one on the right is the new version. I checked the 2014 cruzes at the dealership and they use the same design as my 2012. So apparently GM changed the design of this hose sometime this year.

Image
 
#7 ·
This design change tells me GM is actually hunting for all the possible coolant leak points.
 
#8 ·
This is great guys, and nice pics CEBT!

I've been suspecting a slow coolant venting from this joint for a long time now as I can smell coolant under my hood and the smell leads me right to this area. Another member had also had this o-ring replaced under warranty for a leak.

My coolant level has been steady for a while now but I can still smell coolant under the hood, and it's always coming from this area. CEBT, do you happen to have the part number for the hose and ring?
 
#10 ·
Mine is the old style as well:



Old part number looks like 95211798.

The clip holding the pipe to the water outlet looked like it may have wiggled out a bit (not fully seated) so i pushed it in all the way. This made no difference in how much play there was between the pipe fitting and outlet, which seems to be a pretty loose fit.

Note the appearance of some sort of residue around the clip in the 2nd picture. I'm not sure if this is road salt, coolant or what. I did have this pipe off when replacing my surge tank, so it may be residual coolant from that episode.

Thanks for all the info guys!
 
#11 · (Edited)
Mine is the old style as well:



Old part number looks like 95211798.

The clip holding the pipe to the water outlet looked like it may have wiggled out a bit (not fully seated) so i pushed it in all the way. This made no difference in how much play there was between the pipe fitting and outlet, which seems to be a pretty loose fit.

Note the appearance of some sort of residue around the clip in the 2nd picture. I'm not sure if this is road salt, coolant or what. I did have this pipe off when replacing my surge tank, so it may be residual coolant from that episode.

Thanks for all the info guys!
That hose looks clean if you ask me no signs of a visable leak.

Yes 13408385 is the new part number, I paid $10 for it. There is no Oring.
 
#13 · (Edited)
When you remove the hose I would recommend having something ready to plug the hole otherwise the coolant will not stop draining. The reason I mention this is because when you remove the old hose and compare it to the new hose you will notice its obviously different and it might take a minute to figure out how it connects.
 
#14 ·
Yeah, I ran into that when I replaced my surge tank. The connector is lower than the surge tank, so the entire tank (and then some) would drain before it stopped.

IIRC, you need something to stick down inside the water outlet to stop it from draining, right? I'm not sure if a finger would suffice or not. I may choose to drain the coolant level down with the rad petcock before replacing the hose, that way I can wipe the inside of the connecting area of the water outlet clean before seating the new hose connector.
 
#16 ·
You definitely want to wipe out, clean, and dry the connections before connecting hoses and tanks. This is Plumbing 101 and it applies to all liquid carrying pipes and hoses.
 
#20 ·
It is not hard to change at all. The hardest part is draining your coolant down a little before taking the hose off so you don't make a big mess.

If you have the front of the car jacked up and drain the coolant down until there's nothing left in the coolant reservoir, it's just a matter of puling the old hose off the reservoir, unclipping the old hose from the water outlet, and installing the new hose in the reverse order. With the new hose installed, top up the reservoir and rinse any spilled coolant from under the hood with water.

Take it for a short drive, park it and let it cool, and then top up the coolant again. Over the next few days air will gradually work its way out of the engine and you'll need to top the coolant up again, always with the engine COLD.
 
#24 ·
Sorry to dredge up an older thread on this topic. My step daughters 2011 Cruze is leaking in that spot. I appear to have gotten the old style from my local dealer (or it was replaced at one point), but it is a different part number - 13251447 (looks the same as the one I took off at least).

Does anybody know the part number for the little fitting/nipple (about 3 inches long that fits into the inlet) that the clipped end of the hose goes into? Mine is cracked and still leaking (might have been my fault when I removed it - the end snapped off the old hose and I had to pry it out).

I'm not allowed to post links yet, but if you search on 13251447 in google, there is an image of it sitting on a brown table.

Thanks in advance!
 
#25 ·
Hello all,
I am experiencing a coolant leak around the inlet/upper rad hose area where it goes into the plastic thermostat house "thing". I finally figured out that the "thing" is considered the water outlet in which the upper hose and inlet hose connect to. This happens to go into the engine as well. Wish my luck as I make this purchase!
 
#30 ·
The leakage come from 2 possible areas. The red arrow points to a joint in the connector that breaks or cracks after sometime of usage or by an external force like a push when someone is working in the engine area.
The second leakage can come from the failure of the o-ring found in the area indicated by the yellow arrow. If you change the o-ring, the leakage should stop.

I was able to resolve both types of leakages while on the 200mile journey. I think if the dealerships are pointed in the right direction it can be solved. Better still you can save some cash by DIY. Good luck
 

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#32 · (Edited)
Just replaced my “engine coolant air bleed hose” a few days ago. Drove it maybe 30 miles since then.

Well today I was driving around and had to pull over because I saw a trail of smoke/steam in my rear view mirror (at the time I didn’t know what it was). Popped the hood and the water outlet hose I replaced was totally off of the water outlet. No coolant left in reservoir. Coolant everywhere! The hose end looked fine and the clips and oring were all still there.

My temp gauge was showing a normal operating temp.

I’m just not sure why it popped off. Maybe I just didn’t put it on right? I stuck the hose in the outlet and put the clip back on, filled it back up and drove it home.

I’m just worried it’s gonna happen again. Think I might just change the coolant (first time) and make sure there is no air in there.

Any thoughts?
 
#33 ·
Just replaced my water outlet hose a few days ago.
What exactly did you replace? I seem to remember that Chevy re-designed the water outlet and the hose that clips to the very top. If you changed one without changing the other, you might have a mismatch.

Usually what happens is that someone changes the water outlet and then finds the hose doesn't go back on right. But since you just changed the hose, it may not grip the old outlet properly.